SNIPE

Good work however there on the first page it's hard to tell what goes in some pinholes,as other parts are in the way of them, I think a schematic would be much better as it has lines to point to where the parts go into and no parts overlap as if it is 'exploded'.

Hopefully this should explain a bit better: Yes there is gears under the clutch gears for the different speeds the 4 stacks in the 3 diagrams are on axles of course, the one with the yellow half bushes is also 'shifted', using the gear lever. (that is the drive select) I can either do it in the diagram or have the gearbox outputs linked to the two gears on the rive select however the drive select cannot select both gears at the same time. Regards, S Larger Image Here: http://oi59.tinypic.com/i6mbo9.jpg Relative Parts: http://img.bricklink.com/P/3/4265c.gif http://img.bricklink.com/P/5/6539.gif http://img.bricklink.com/P/86/32187.gif

yes but in such a way that the gear lever can do it hence the custom clutch sleeve on the drive selector, a normal one wouldn't work well' the selector is right beside the normal clutches on the gearbox (image 2) so the gear lever fits in.

Video of the drive selector http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=e9ga3q&s=5#.Uz6jd8esb-k The drive selctor image showing the internal axle (purple) The gearbox itself: Regards, s

Hi Im trying make my gearbox drive both driveshafts but so I can optionally bypass this and have just one or the other driveshaft driven, im using a shaft with a clutch that is moved to either select one clutch gear or the other, and bypass the gearbox that drives both driveshafts this is to be used for selecting only one drive shaft - it cannot select both. How can I do this, Ill post diagrams if needed.

WHOA this is amazing and the differential idea is genius, ive been trying to make it all wheel drive with full steering and suspention too but I failed. any chance of an LXF file?

It's been like that for years now, its probably easier to read IMO and less work to draw. I'm busy making schematics where all parts are on one axis and face one direction but i'm still not putting the fancy details in, just the mechanical factors like width of beam, and the pinhole spacing etc,no tapering or anything. They are meant to make it quicker to build but may take some time to get used to.

The manuals are easy with lego, there laid out very well

I would have thought the hub could pivot with suspension too since it has ball joints there?

Nice wheel ball joint hubs there, the 4080 needs these I think especially it making it 4wd like some super cars, either my steering arms are too short and toe the wheels in/out or they have too much slack and we the car goes over a bump they then toe the wheels in/out despite working fine when the when the suspension is uncompressed. I think I may need to move them half a stud towards the car, instead of 0 or 1 stud which doesn't work. PS im just leaving the studded beam idea as it makes technic a bit too easy, you rarley need that many holes right above each other anyhow.

The studs are sort of hollow to a point, but not all the way through. The only solution I can see for my beam idea is to make the studs very slightly shorter then it will work fine, since the clutches are round they will have lots of gripping power anyhow, kinda like putting a stud in a pinhole. My idea of thickening the beams slightly will probably effect the alignment of the pin holes eventually when used with lego bricks that are equal to 3 plates tall. The reason I like the idea of stacking beams like this is because it saves a lot of space when building and they can still be spaced out using plates of half/full beams in between the beams, putting a bean upside down also has advantages, and it is still the same thickness from the hole

Yeah I mean the normal clutches then the offset clutches too, the studs are still in between the holes though that should save more cost but I fear it. When I place a studless beam on the lip of a studded beam and line the studs up with the holes it allows for an axle/pin to still go through, the axle may be pushed up very slightly but isn't tight if it still doesnt work maybe we can add a tiny bit more thickness to the lift arms but still make them comparable with the technic system, reason it should work is because there is a tiny gap between two stud-less beams if connected by the holes to pins/axles

if its still strong enough sure you can make small engagements to save plastic. Im sure that an offset stud will work however there will need to be a cutout on the hole so if a stud were in the clutch it would fill that cutout however the cutout is only small and doesn't effect the axle movement. I have made an alightment jig with lego and it should work, the space between the inner of the hole and the outer edge of the lift-arm is the same height as 1 stud (((Not 1 plate))))

Perhaps the balloon tires, their little surface on flat surfaces means less grip like on a dragster and maybe faster steering and more grip on off road settings, also suspension ravel wont need to be so big since balloon tires will have a better surface area when the wheel is on an angle (compresses suspension)

Yes, that also works efferman Is it possible to have the tiny holes in the clutches filled in, also How about offset clutches (these will be directly under the holes and may need to overlap with the holes but not in a way that putting a stud in the clutch would block the hole, there should just be enough room.

I meant if the the lego group is watching this topic they should make the parts

This is epic! are you watching the lego group?

if you meant me then I recon 4L, 6L, because 8, 10, and 12L can be made with these combinations, lego should make even number of holes/lengh

that's perfect effy, Thanks

Correct, studless beam but with studs and clutch holes, the clutch doesnt effect the thickness There would be a half clutch on each end so you can attach them ontop of a longer if not the extra on the longer beam wont have anywhere to interlock so neither will the rest of the studs.

Here is a rough drawing with the holes, studs and clutches at the right scale to each other, the lines don't take up any space since the gap between lego bricks is so small. holes and studs are the same space as each other but half space round the edge of the liftarm. Red is the studs and the bottom gaps guide where the clutches would roughly be, round recesses for the stud clutches would be best as it takes up the least area which makes it stronger. the bottom picture of the lift arm is more like a real side view since the clutches are centered Note tht this is a 6 L but is not a thin liftarm, I say 8L would be more useful though This enables you to stack liftarms without using the holes with more connections but still allows for each stud hole to be 0L apart instead of 1 plate apart like on the old technic beams

How about a beam, its like a stud less beam but one has studs and clutches offset to the holes. but it will be very useful because they can be stacked with no external connections, I'm not sure if offset clutch holes are possible (those would be directly inline with the holes)

http://www.bricklink...sp?P=87408&in=S 18 sets wow we posted the same thing at the same time I thought it was available in yellow now too? (2014)

If the old diff have the spacers sticking out of the two holes it would be perfect 3L, and the 48 tooth gear can be used as a bevel or a spur The mini turntable is also 48 tooth bevel or spur

all lego differentials can have 12 or 14 tooth gears but mixing them doesn't really work.