MangaNOID

Thanks @tomek9210 it’s a good thought , it would stiffen the hub more. I’ll look at it tomorrow but I’m not sure I can make it work . Will see.

I had a painfull time with this steering. its a little loose feeling still and I think that is down to A: the steering links on the balls and B: using the small turntable at the top which has a very loose fit like a non friction pin. You know, sometimes you can tighten up steering by using friction pins but not with the turntable (?) so I have gone through as much as possible elsewhere in the steering to tighten up as much as possible. Even though this is intended (maybe as a consequence of the previous) as a shelf model (maybe on a technic plinth ) and the steering would no way hold up on an motorised version. This was my strut assembly things wrong with this were the wheel was only supported by one stud hole and the axles holding the turntable to the liftarms are not as tight as pins. so I changed to pins with bars in them (due to half stud stupidness) and added further support for the axle itself rearward of the hub. I tried to keep the steering ball as close to the swivel point as possible to be able to use the small wheels and have them in close to the hub as possible too. This is a compromise,as most things are, as the steering point on the hub further out would reduce steering looseness if i'm not mistaken. Also this keeps the steering rack and links in line and the rack close to the crossmember like the actual car and the steering input offset to the proper side of the car...that is because its the rally version of course using the 2L bar with ball for the steering link allows me to put the steering link 'too far' over the ball which tightens things up a little bit more. the steering rack closely resembles the 240z setup as best I can in Lego without too much excessive Lego-ness. Well that's my opinion anyway what I am interested in is with this build is keeping the look of the Datsun as close to possible as the original car which means compromising rigidity I suppose, as I found out with the steering. I work hard on this though to get maximum rigidity with minimum liftarm frames that would spoil the look in my opinion. And the engine bay is looking open like the 240z as best I can. A few details I may incorporate is (fake) disc brakes (these match the diameter of datsun brakes almost perfectly in 1/8 scale!) and some hose maybe to look like brake hose which is a bit off in scale with pneumatic hose so we shall see. firewall is going in next to see how the engine bay holds up in strength. I am worried at this stage that the strut towers will still push inwards when compressing the suspension. otherwise the real build is looking and feeling OK (using available colours that I have at this stage of course) EDIT: I also tried to add tie rods to stiffen the suspension arms and that helps a little also.

I think actually most of the looseness is from the ball links. If I hold everything else tight there is still play in those. There is plenty of sets with these links so I’ll have to build an axle from one, to see, to compare.

how was the looseness of the hub assembly with this setup @grego18f I believe McPherson struts in Lego to be close to complete disaster with the small spring (I haven't really tried the long spring). only on a shelf model that will not get much use would they be any good and definitely not on a motorised set. I have stuffed around for hours and hours the last few days trying to minimise steering looseness but there is a lateral twist in the small spring that shows itself (especially with large fat tyres with poor scrub radius from the strut build) add to that the normal steering link looseness and loose lego tolerances its all a bit disapointing in a way.

Thanks for the review! So much time involved surely. i get a feeling it would take more time for me to learn the C+ app than building the model.

no no your subframe is superb! and fills a lot of 240z dimensions. What I mean is that I don't want to copy and paste your design. I'd never learn that way. I won't take fish from you, you taught me how to fish Which yellow which?

In the setup I have (worm gear rack photo above) above there is no akerman geometry, but if I put the steering link that is attached to the rack half a stud or 1 stud further forward of the rack itself then that limits the outside wheels turn in thus producing an akerman effect. I thought that is what you achieved in your setup above? as the pivot point is the same parallel as the main pivot.

Just a quick reply for now @nicjasno to say impressed is not giving enough credit! to capture all the geometry and keep all the size limitations and half stud crazyness that I incorporated is impressive, again to say the least. I will try to incorporate alterations into my model as I can not just copy and paste...it wouldn't be my model. I am not sure what I'll end up with but we shall see. Perhaps you should build your own 240Z Thank you Sir!

oh wow i love these! and yep that turntable portal hub is very unique

well I'm not sure it can be done taking into consideration the structure/chassis that needs to be replicated but if there is anyone that could put castor onto here it is you, the master of Lego steering geometry surely yep that NSX is some good work there!

thanks! I wont be using the tumbler wheels on the rally version, they are just there as a size reference for 80mm tyres. But in a JDM 70's style fat balloon rubber street version, tumbler tyres will work a treat! That B-model is a beauty! the technic fake engine is under all that system stuff with a small gap so you can still see the pistons. So far I like this look. we shall see what happens. good point on the weight too. I need to keep this on one shock per axle weight limit for sure. Agree for sure! I never could afford one so got the 510. 70's engine bays are great so I need to keep that open look hopefully I can pull it off. Thanks! Mcpherson struts are not regularly reproduced in lego for reference. I was quite well excited when I thought of this and it fitted all the necessary parameters, but doubt I'm the first in the world to do this even though this gave me a few more hours of work its great to have a WIP where you lot can point out things I may have missed. indeed the steering was not aligned vertically or horizontally. here is my fixed version below. 30 degree steering angle. the only compromise is that the steering rack now sits lower than the cross-member, but I think this may be better than the previous setup with incorrect geometry. oh if you can tell me how to get 2 degrees castor i'll put it in but otherwise that is a detail that I'm willing to leave out although I will try putting in the tie rods for cosmetics!

hello Eurobricks I am excite to start a new WIP thread for this project. I have been a Datsun owner for 25 years (Datsun 510) but after a long time rebuilding, modding, fabricating and spending a lot of money on a car it is time to sell it in the next few months due to a lot of reasons. it will be sad to see it go after so much time money effort etc but enthusiasm for such things doesn't go on forever. Especially with a young family. so to lessen the blow when it sells I decided to put all my building effort into replacing the real Datsun I sell with a Lego one. albeit a 240Z not a 510 as I thought it may be easier to replicate and in roughly 1:8 scale. And why not start with the East African Rally version. I began with what I thought may be the hardest part, the front axle. What tyres to use? standard tyres in 1/8 is about 80mm x 22mm so I will be going with aftermarket RC tyres that match well with the original Rally car tyres. And just to keep it purest if I want there are the very old tyres from Lego from the chassis car that are about right too. I tried a few mcpherson struts with the large spring but the scale was to far out and the scrub radius way off for my liking even though this will be manual model inclination angle was spot on to datsun original but like I said way to big for the height of the car and silly offset of lego wheels. I found a design that @Zerobricks posted ages ago with the smaller springs which was a good re-start but I had to line up the pivot points to better replicate the Datsun strut. The bottom pivot is only about 1/3 stud off from where it should be. To keep the swivel part on top really low I use a turntable which is a bit odd looking but works well. Inclination angle of the strut is well similar to Datsun struts and mounting points line up to the Datsun chassis in scale. steering is a rack and pinion just in front of the crossmember. I'm trying to replicate this car as best as possible including the chassis. I dont want to build a lego chassis to fit the body on. I would really like to replicate how the real chassis looks as well. we shall see what happens. Strength of the engine bay is already concerning but will wait until the firewall is in place. the outside panel work wont be too many panels and lots of gaps as I love to see the inner workings of technic models. I think for me the biggest challenge will be the bodywork. I have never attempted a car before because in Lego they didn't interest me too much but now I'm selling my real one I really want to get this to my satisfaction so it can be my Datsun replacement for when I really miss that Datsun feeling scale is coming along nicely I think. and a shot of how the digital build is progressing below. I am missing a lot of parts needed so digital build is the best way for this for me. I think I spent more time trying various headlight combinations/looks than I did on the front axle. Unfortunately a few system bricks are needed to satisfy myself but I will try to balance the use of system bricks out as this is not a scale model build but more a technic build with a few more details. more to come as the weeks progress...

Haha! I hope not too fast though as I’m really enjoying it so far and it has good meaning for me. I’ll start a WIP soon.

thanks! yes visually very happy. I will do a video in its current state if I have some time soon but my new project is priority right now. but definitely a video when this is finished...whatever form that ends up as.

this project is on hold for a short time for another project (Lego) A few things to finish cosmetically (seats) and it works as it sits but still not great with the tracks widening so also thinking about going back to original setup with all controls in the cabin and just mounting the whole excavator on a small stand (so the track still touch the ground) and have it as a working display if that makes sense. as she sits right now with tracks in wide position.

Welcome back! there are some pretty crazy angles going on there, quite unique shame you can’t use the hubs but it makes sense I guess.

Well done worthy winners! those 3 look great together representing... well, the best of a Technic competition

Very nice with so many functions. I really like the technic look that came about on this!

@WvG_853 and @agrof good posts on this topic thanks for the info. as those concepts go I think they miss the mark for face trauma incidents for road bikes. that inflatable one good for the head on a back landing but thats what normal helmet is for. I cannot see the face remaining undamaged in a face down accident. and that Ventoux needs some more reinforcment also! I guess it's a design, safety, versus acceptance by consumer. I guess it's one of those things that you usually only think about after an accident to yourself or loved one too. I may have to look at the downhill mountain ones that seem a little over the top for anything other than down hill/mountain riding. as for learning how to fall, haha I wish! for me I obviously did something wrong but certainly nothing crazy I don't ride hard. I was standing on the pedals rolling no more than 10Kph and my bike just left me (slightly down hill and a small rain gully on track If I remember, dry but very marble slippery) and hard full impact on the chin/face without seeing it coming. no slow motion stuff here. hands didn't have a scratch on them (no gloves) and my helmet only the slightest of marks on the forehead area. ride well!

Just echoing what others have said... very nice model!

It’s impossible to find a road bicycle helmet full face or at least with a chin guard :(

Very nice truck and I didn’t realise how small it was until you put the large tyres in the cargo hold! Like all the drive shafts, good thinking. With the steering (I’m trying to build something with m motor also) does it stop turning and stall the motor at maximum angle?

Just about to get out of hospital from a mountain bike accident last week. i think a few here would ride so I just wanted to preach full face helmets. Wear them. My bike slipped on the stupid pea gravel fire trails we have here in between the tracks (Western Australia) and slammed hard on my face from a slow cruise. No fun. But got off lightly with minor? Neck damage. turned off riding for sometime now.

8: 10 4: 6 7: 4 1: 3 5: 2 2: 1

Thank you for the Love! I'll keep trying for sure. just a bit frustrating when things don't work out but in reality one could carry on with this idea and keep trying to make it work. Not for the contest of course. Its a bit embarrassing to fail so hard amongst fellow enthusiasts but 'on the internet, no one know's who you are' A locking device is a good idea but I really wanted this thing to travel along at any height. when i have 4 LA's I may try this setup again as that is where the success is I think. there are some other really interesting effects of this setup if done right like moving one leg up at a time to go over a large rock whilst keeping the chassis stable...kind of like active suspension. no excuses please