MangaNOID

I just supported this. It is really interesting and I love how it is a bit interactive so you can play with the lengths. I has a good chance of success (if it reached the 10000) as there are very few parts, so a low price tag. as mentioned it could be too technic for people to vote. Maybe a version with minifigs on swings... well done and good luck.

I would like to ask what could be a stupid question, but can the sequence be interfered with and still have the puzzle solved? By that I mean, for example, could one swap one pile of discs onto another peg at some point in time when it's running and it would still end up completing it properly.

love the truck, it has great aesthetics. Realy nice for my eye. love the steering mechanism I don't like the look of the messy lifting arm though, and it looks like a lot of weight is taken up by one lift arm just after the first boom elevation connects, just above where the yellow axle is? from looking at the rest of the truck you have skills enough to easily make it better (even though it works of course)

Plenty of info in the last 4 odd pages to do a google search successfully. I like the look of both sets myself. I hope they are the new box style too it looks great.

thanks @Rudivdk I did need those vertical pin holes as that is where the pneumatics in the undercarriage were attached too.. I thought I was being smart using the cross blocks. I may try your Idea of one crossblock in the middle for when I re build the undercarriage as that sounds like a good starting point and would still work with where the pneumatics attach, thanks!. At the moment I am starting with the upper body. I am not too disappointed in a way, as I have learnt a lot and felt like the build was getting rather messy and make do in many areas so I will try to avoid that this time. very much still enjoying this build despite setbacks.

Disaster has struck my build with me not knowing the parts well enough. after having the arm on the excavator the weight shift/slop through the whole chassis and body was so annoying that I could not continue. After close inspections of where the wobble or slop was coming from I realised the parts in LBG (photo below) that I have connected to the turntable (both top and bottom are connected like this) have less friction than standard friction pins making these parts slip/slop loosely. There appears friction lines only on one end of each pin. So on to a major rebuild.

5 : 10 8 : 6 17 : 4 14 : 3 15 : 2 2 : 1

so I'm probably not going to win any award for accuracy with the digging arm motion, but this is not an exact scale model of course, and its not too far off? If its clear in the photo, I highlighted in pink the motion of the original to compare where my bucket arm sits. A little bit more work to get it better but I'm quite happy. The arm will drop a little more as there is a technic brick to be relocated that hits the first cylinder stopping it from reaching full downward vertical which will get it more closer to the line. I lined the overlay image with the body and pivot point of the arm and not the tracks of course. the arm is 3L wide but having the hoses clamped on the side make it 5L which is too wide and impedes operator view, but I'm struggling a little to hide them any better so far. also a little concerned about needing two battery boxes to balance it but i guess its not finished and there is the gap and two turntables to get rid of between the tracks and upper body.

Looks like a really clean build! Look forward to a video. Do you think you will be doing instructions like you mentioned before?

I think you have achieved your goal greatly the way it can be opened up to see whats going on is kind of a balance between modern covered up building styles and the older see whats going on on the inside. I like this a lot. I was impressed recently when building 8459. this is obviously bigger and different but Impressive in similar design ways where little details add up greatly.

Hey I’ve not been in the pub before so hello! A Few comments, I started watching westworld last month. Thought it was pretty good (only seen 5 episodes) so a little disappointed to read here that it was kind of a re hash of a 1973 movie. I started watching star trek next Generation too but only got a few episodes in to it. It’s so…bad. Not to put you off I hope, its still good late night viewing, but those 80's special effects!...but as you say, slower paced, relaxed. I remember it being much better when it first came out but that was probably because there was not much choice of watching things with 3 tv channels and the video store was a bit expensive to be regular of course and we needed that sci-fi fix. Just started Ozark. Seems good so far but a little painful to watch. No, like a lot of you it seems, I don’t watch TV either but just a couple hours Netflix per week. Too many great things to do these days other than sit watching the screen for hours a day. Sounds like a lot of people are in to RC cars. Myself over the last 17 years decided to waste money on building and modifying a real car. Datsun 510. That’s probably why I am into technic right now because I need my mechanical engineering fix which is a fair bit cheaper with Lego. And to be honest I am over cars and may be selling the Datsun soon. Be sad to see it go though. Also I went pretty hard on traditional animation for 13 years, with a couple short films (they take years to finish doing it by yourself) but with a young family there is not time to spend doing hobbies like this, so animation is put aside for some time now. If you have kids you may know what I mean when you have so little time for your own hobbies I feel like I need more instant gratification in what I am doing so a hobby that is years long won’t cut it. Bread making! Ive been trying to perfect the Roti. Six attempts, its getting better. Ah OK I don’t usually talk that much and must get back to work but good that it feels very casual in here. I may be back.

Have been working on the arm attachment and stiffening up the upper structure recently. I found it quite hard to add the arm and have it turn left and right as well and not bend the whole upper structure out of place with the weight of the arm at reach. I am using plates to hold eveything back to the center or rear part of the upper structure as there is not much room for anything else to be used. that is working well though and will help when adding some detail to the cabin area later. But with the weight of the arm (arm is unfinished) on there now the problem of a twisting undercarriage is showing itself. in the photo below you can see a slight slant downward left to right on the middle part of the undercarriage where the turntable sits. I think it is because the only real attachment points to the tracks are through the pneumatics which are roughly attached where the two yellow lines are. which means they are very central to the structure leaving a lot of slop when weight is put on any far points length ways to the chassis. there is no triangulation stuff going on to stiffen things up that is. I may be able to rebuild the chassis and widen the pneumatics, but only on the side where the plow, or stabalizing thingy (left of picture) is. there is really no room on the side where the drive goes to the tracks. I may indeed have to completely rebuild the undercarriage and setup a different drive system. I don't want to give up the variable tracks just yet as it would be a great feature to retain.

oh interesting. looks like they tunnel flat bottom smaller (in real life) tunnels. I see how they work now, with a sweeping arm. thanks for the enlightenment

Great MOC and I love the double turntable setup and self levelling. But for me the look of the bent track arms (optical illusion as you say) is a bit weird for me. and most importantly, I fail to see how the drill rig would be any good other than a very shallow drill hole in limited directions? Especially as there is limited overhang to the undercarriage in the direction of travel. Or does the drill arm have a telescoping out feature that I missed? I do however love the way you made the drill rig action. Fricken awesome.

I like the aircraft Idea too. I think there would not need to be too many restrictions on this topic either?

Indeed hideous colouring like 42082, Can't really bring myself to buy that one, and rather, I cannot afford official sets these days with young family etc, so I must bricklink all special bits that I need such as the 20T clutch gear above and the pneumatic switches. Thanks! I am quite happy with this, although the other day when I was putting a lot of pressure through the model unknowingly they half 'popped out' as they are really only held on by 2 pins each side, on the ends of the pneumatic cylinders. It was a lot of force but I may need to revisit that. We shall see how the models weight and playability end up. plenty of room for fixing that if need be I hope.

yep! yep. the only drawback is that innovative mechanical things don't look that great in photos! but as this is a Technic forum we should be able to overcome that.

first up sorry for the colour vomit. it doesn't seem to photograph well for showing things but it is easier to build without thinking of colour schemes until the model is finished of course. Unfortunately when I tried the new pneumatic switches in the controls it didn't really work so well. there is a lot of force needed to turn the axle hole. I tried increasing the leverage as in the photo below which has 7L leverage but that then limited the movement of the switches to very little, very slow cylinder movement. please not that this is a quick mock up for the photo as I had taken it apart in disappointment before I thought of taking a photo. but it should show the gist of movement to the switch from the stick, swashplate then through the horizontal 7L? so this is what I have now, which is ...OK. the only drawback is that it is swinging the hoses when the switch moves left/right. Hopefully that will be ok. I think there are softer hoses from earlier sets like 8459 that I recently bought. hope it works or this project is cactus. Control over the forward backward of course is superb. otherwise overall everything else seems to be going OK. i have the track controls somewhat sorted which are the two sticks comming up from the floor of course. the floor of the cabin should be (for accurate scale) the top of the black technic bricks between the sticks but i may need to add one plate height on top like the 1x8 system bit there to cover everything nicely. the right control stick (on the left of the photo) controls another pneumatic switch lower down for the left right action. I had to lift the pivot point up for the track control but that helped reduce the arc movement of the top of the sticks which will hopefully be good for playability. It sitting higher off the tracks than it will in the end as I just didn't want to mate the top and bottom together yet whilst still working things out.

haha, you could argue that for almost any lego set. Why not just use your hand to pick up the extra Lego bits instead of the manually operated crane. I mean, your just sitting there right next to it

Look forward to the video as I have no idea how these work. Funny how you have 42053 cabin on there as my 42042 has that put on it too but loosely, waiting for time to put it on properly, so glad it looks good on this chassis.

so I'm quite happy with this outcome of finishing the variable track width pneumatically even though my grey matter is absolutely fried because of it. these are the first tracks I have built and I got to say it was difficult (The video in the previous post above just had placeholder tracks for dramatisation) even though this is supposed to be a generic mini excavator I ended up trying to build to the right scale of the TYM1800 and in the end it paid off with the length, height, ground clearance and both widths being pretty much spot on. Although maybe 20 hours! was spent making the tracks (not including the chassis that is) the pneumatic hoses have yet to be put in properly so they are just hanging out at the moment. Hopefully the plan is to have the pneumatic switch manually operated in the lower chassis with the small 6L pump in the lower chassis too but somehow operated from the cabin with a drop down gear or something when the cabin is in the right (forward facing straight on) position...we'll see how that one goes. there is some colour discrepancies which will be fixed on the final version. this is what the real machine looks like by the way that this is loosely based on. my tracks...yeah I'm not sure about the red knob either. scale is pretty good with rear of the tracks 1 stud longer than the front like the real one is slightly offset and the two widths line up nice with 2 studs variation of track width for each side so 19 studs width in and 23 studs width out. The Technic bricks you can see in DBG with the LBG tile on top are the guides to keep the tracks as parallel as possible when they move out. they work quite well held in place by the 'T' pieces. The blue half lift arms etc below are the 'stops' for the pneumatics as I had to only have 2 studs of travel but of course the pneumatics have 5 studs or so of travel. also the drive shafts cant handle anymore than 2 studs of lateral movement. Here is a vid of them being operated and also showing how fairly structurally sound they are with 1kg of weight put on top which is more than what will be on top from my calculations of one Li-PO battery box, one XL motor etc etc. you'll notice that one tracks side comes out before the other and not coming out together, but that is how the real ones work too from all the videos I have seen so I am OK with that.

superb truck! you should call this the 'Irish queen' (red and green should never be seen etc) the lines are wonderfully pleasing to my eye. good work on making this small but handsome with virtually no system parts (?) and functional too. spend a few pennies and get a few more tyres for the trailer.

I understand that. I understand their thieves, I understand their making money off others without compensation. but like people have said it’s not going to stop. And, the point I was trying to say is No doubt at all that most people that can afford LEGO will buy, and will want, the better product and those that can’t may buy the inferior. so I don’t see anyone missing out on much monetary wise, when trying to sell building instructions. Just think of it that one is helping to provide to the less fortunate whilst sitting in our ivory towers studying the masses on how to keep our privileges away from them.

I might be on my own here (nope, I just read @Pvdbpost) but if I had a MOC that got knocked off by the Lepin or another big knock off company I doubt I would mind much and may even be a little excited that my MOC was a chosen one! Now I say that because I haven’t really made many Mocs and still fresh and have zero desire to try and sell designs for money and happy to share anything I make with anyone who wants, so I’m not in a protective mind set. I would be upset if a single entity claimed a design of my own for theirs though. but for me I can afford to buy the real LEGO so I will, but there are poorer people who cannot so what? They have to miss out on some fun? Just let them have Lepin in my opinion. Of course that opens arguments and discussion that’s not really appropriate for this thread I guess.

Needs some tidying up but it works with pneumatics and feels pretty solid. will finish it off when back from holidays in a couple weeks. Very happy so I’ll leave it on a good note for now.