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MangaNOID

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by MangaNOID

  1. Not much happening, but lots of trying. Body work is slow. Its difficult. Rear suspension attached to the chassis on the real life test build successfully. There is flexibility in the chassis, mostly corner to corner twist, but no way can I get rid of that without resorting to a LEGO chassis instead of trying to copy the real Datsun one. I'll live with it. it might be better when the roof is boxed on but not sure how boxed on it will be. Anyway its not exactly bending under its own weight so not so bad. Trying not to use too many panels but i did try the wheel arches from 42056 but A: they don't come in red and B: they don't fit on the rear wheels as they intrude where the door is as they are too big, but C: they looked good on the front. oh well.
  2. That is very cool. That mechanical action to turn...that's pure genius! First I thought it was for tables where people sat so I was going to suggest to call it the 'keep your elbows off the table' but I see where its useful now anyway well done I think its function is great
  3. I'll say as usual I have nothing important to add except a witty remark about how the car appears to drive itself at the 55-58 sec mark in the vid
  4. haha!...um, not funny...hehe. I don't think this is about protecting children from seeing obscene stuff. This seems to be about protecting themselves in that the law states that they cannot target or gather information on children under 13. So better to be safe than sorry. but this could ultimately de-monetise youtube for uploaders if I got it right.
  5. that roof mechanism is VERY NICE! It would be nice to see a stripped down version of that in action i.e. no car around it ... Not that there is anything wrong with the car of course its lovely! But just that the roof action is sublime
  6. sorry to reply so late but if you look closer at the front steering you should see that the worm gear is just a steering 'rack' locked in place instead of the usual LEGO steering rack 7L Also small update that took me many attempts was the rear suspension/subframe. I tried to replicate the Datsun as best I could and I think it looks and works OK. Offset suspension and triangular shape swing arms was difficult to replicate given that I wanted to be able to use the tumbler wheels for a street version of this car. The DBG bits are mostly the strut towers and some of the boot (trunk) floor which is all part of the chassis rather than the subframe but easier to photo with the springs attached to that.
  7. a few more photos to show off the interior changes would be great! I think 2 speed gearbox is sufficient for a great technic model as long as its in the right place (?) as putting a gearbox through almost the whole chassis teaches no one anything about how cars work. sure its very technical to have 8 speed gearboxes n stuff, but.... so nice mods indeed
  8. I suppose you do not like this one ahh... it was only sarcastic! don't lynch me please, I like all Datsuns, I promise.
  9. ahh, sigh...lush old green English countryside. but its only a 260Z not a 240z so its ok probably no bringing that back to life
  10. I kinda tried similar to this after you said. It does feel kinda right. Thanks! but not quite so. There are still some floors in its operation that I found after playing with it for a while, it can jump out of gear when put under load. no way this could be a motorised gearbox but thankfully its a manual model this is close to suit on the gear stick great! good to hear thanks! also just working on the steering pretty close to 2.7 turns lock to lock but not spot on. It will do. The steering wheel is also not quite the right angle to the driver...always focusing on the negatives... And if angled gears are OK for @Zerobricks then they are OK for me This was really the only way to lower the turn output and keep it all tight and tucked up under the dash out of view. works a treat just needs proper construction around it of course. tan 20 gear is where the output to the rack is.
  11. yes It was a toss up between working gearbox and one that replicates the proper workings. by the way this still outputs to the rear diff and the engine so that's something. I really liked @Pleasedontspammebro 240z c model gearbox and of course @Gray Gear on the previous page both come real close but neither quite fitted for what I wanted for this model. Shame, but happy too. This was a real hold up point for me cause I really, really hate doing gearboxes. They confuse me big time great to hear you guys opinions for sure
  12. Fake 4sp+R gearbox finished. Not entirely happy with the fake gearbox but other than ratios it does replicate the original Datsun one.....somewhat....and its size is pretty good and thin so the transmission tunnel doesn't overbear the interior and the shifter works somewhat like the real. and its loose when in gear which is just like a Datsun reverse is now held in place with a ring gear changer. ummm...what do you think
  13. WHen I’m interested in purchasing an older set (I think sets mature over time somehow) I always look for eurobricks review to peruse. A good written review with photos like yours are very intimate and satisfying and, well they make me want to buy sets. I wasn’t that interested in the landrover right now, but you photos are changing my mind! videos are great but I’ll always enjoy a written review with great photos more
  14. Yep well spotted. So the half stud gears for reverse do indeed ‘slop’ about at the moment, but I will try and hide another of those clutch sliders to the reverse axle and that should lock it in neutral or engaged position. The rest of the ‘gearbox’ works really well so far. And yes gearbox squished in front of shifter (which is almost as big as the gearbox itself) maybe I could move the gearstick back 3 studs to accommodate your gearbox but that would look visually strange for having the shifter so close to the seats, still deciding though, it’s a close call on what I want from this model. so compromises/choices unfortunately. We got to make them I guess and I suppose a ‘working’ gear box might not be that important to me if I have to choose. I know that’s almost heresy to a lot of you as gearboxes seem quite popular here
  15. Mmm, that’s quite clever! I am not a gearbox guy Its obviously little different from a real gearbox but about as close as could be? It is 3 studs longer of course using the newer gear changers. I’m not sure I have the capacity to re build this into the model. Trying to keep the gear lever in the same spot. And not over load the look of the model. I mean really it took me more time to work out how your gearbox worked than you took to make it! And it took me 2 weeks to make a gearbox that doesn’t change gear I’ll play around with it though for sure, thank you! Otherwise its just something else to add to the list of un-used help from others
  16. fake gearbox. I spent the last couple weeks trying to build a gearbox but didn't want an overbearing (in size) box that didn't sit in the right place in the car and didn't operate somewhat like a real 4 speed box so I built a fake gearbox that kind of simulates a real 4 speed box with reverse. Fake meaning that when a gear changes, no ratio changes are made to the output, i.e. same ratio output in every gear. but in doing this I am able to have a H pattern shifter simulated in the (almost) correct spot in the car (out by 1 stud) it works really well and glad I can have that simulated in the model rather than gear ratio changes which is perhaps not so playable in a manual model. Below is a better way to see it. The gear stick is held in place by the ball that squishes between liftarms. 1st and 2nd gear is the yellow. 3rd and 4th is purple and green is reverse. All gear function will be in the correct 'H' pattern for each 'gear' like in the real 240z because of the way the shifter gear lever pivots from where the ball is. Once in a gear the shifter is unable to accidentally slide into another gear. Very happy with this design and compromise over a 'real' LEGO gearbox I also want to keep this as visible as possible (its Technic right) so hopefully, depending on structural integrity, this will somewhat be visible through the transmission tunnel through the window of the model to see how the gears change. also managed to secure the engine in place on a lean like the real engine. and managed some 70's style vinyl looking (?) seats.
  17. Yes but renewables won’t capture and store carbon like paper does if the paper is kept in a stable environment. Yes but once the paper has been composted then the carbon escapes back to the atmosphere. Paper, books, libraries, it’s all carbon capture if stored in stable environment. Replant more trees and store them too. We know this. It’s taking the concept a bit too extreme perhaps by saying how useful LEGO paper instructions are in carbon capture, but it plays its part more than electronics ever will, especially if the energy for making the paper instructions come from renewables.
  18. Another bonus for paper instructions, is that the instructions for LEGO usually get kept for as long as the LEGO which is a long time, so it’s kind of carbon capture which won’t happen through digital media.
  19. I love the paper instructions i would like to see more compressed instructions though. mostly for the technic line or UCS etc where there is usually an older audience. This would half the paper production and IMO increase build enjoyability/ with difficulty. Following instructions is all too easy at the moment which for me, and no doubt most turns me off official set building. Sure, that's almost another argument but it overflows into this discussion somewhat with the environmental debate. I have 8851, my only real old technic set. it has 35 steps (including sub steps) and 350 parts. Avg 10 parts per step. 42100 (which I do not have) has 1000 steps? and 4108 parts? Avg 4.1 parts per step. not sure about sub steps as I do not own the instructions. simply half the paper production.
  20. Gorgeous build and a perfect display stand to compliment it. There are tiny wires around the handle bar area is that for the headlights? battery for those on the bike?
  21. It just that I put the suspension and cross-member half a stud off from the rest of the car making things a bit more difficult for myself trying to chase good scale when that was probably a bit to pedantic for my skill level. you can see it in this photo best with a half stuff either side of the suspension towers. I hear you indeed, thanks for the reminder. I was supposed to just be using flex axles for the body with a few panels here and there but I'm going too overboard maybe. I knew this body work would be hard for me but this is just crazy difficult I'm starting to study a lot of MOC's by you lot of cars to see how people connect stuff and do this. little bit of chassis, little bit of body, little bit of functions just trying to line everything up as I go thinking of everything else at the same time. As I said more respect to scale model builders! A bit more floating body work to make sure it looks like a 240z as that other photo above looked more like a Mazda MX-5. I need to build some more physical chassis now to catch up but the shape/scale is kinda lining up
  22. This is not easy with the body work. Its slow going, I think the shape is getting there without too much parts usage. some parts are 'floating' in this pic so I can see where they need to be to then connect them. not sure if there is a better way but this seems to work for me. Chassis is going ok and I am more confident in my building for that. More respect for the difficulty in scale technic building
  23. this looks really interesting and strange in details!. I think a few more photos would be great, to show some of your building/chassis etc.
  24. Hey @technicmath Gentle reminder that your supposed to post in English
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