TheMindGarage

At the moment, this is just an idea - since I have two cars currently half-build, I will finish them before doing this. Expect this sometime in October (knowing me, near the end of it ). This will be about 1:10 scale with 68.8x36ZR tyres. As with all my cars, this won't be a strict scale model - I just want the car to be recognisable, functional and fast. These are my plans: Power will come from my entire EV3 arsenal - 3 EV3 Large motors and one EV3 Medium motor. These will be connected in a very strange way. The Large motor and Medium motor (geared down 5:3) are combined with an adder. This output will go into a second differential with one Large motor on each side. Each side will then be geared up (hopefully 1:9) before going to the wheels. I haven't tested this setup - I really hope the diffs are strong enough . I might need to gear up the motors 1:3 before the diff and 1:3 after the diff, but I'd rather avoid this if I can since it would mean more sets of gears. When turning, the Large/Medium combo (representing the ICE) will have to slow down a little bit, as will the Large motor on the inside of the turn. Steering will not be motorised - my plan is for the front wheels to be able to steer freely (maybe with a rubber band to provide a little self-centering) but have a high castor angle. When the motors on each side of the diff turn at different speeds, the front wheels will steer automatically. Essentially the fastest castorbot ever! Suspension is still undecided. Depending on the layout of the drivetrain and my chosen width (the math says 26 studs - I have a choice of 25 or 27), the rear suspension may either be independent or an independent trailing-arm type. Whatever I go for, I would like something that replicates the triplex suspension in the real car. Front will be regular independent, with the wheels free to pivot. Making the ride height adjustable would be a bonus. I'm also hoping to make proper Koenigsegg doors and have some space for a cabin.

Same. It was about 5 months ago, well before I joined Eurobricks. Needless to say, the aesthetics were pretty poor: It looked stupidly angular, had no seating and the body scraped against the ground, forcing me (purists look away) to use rubber bands to pull the midle of the chassis up. It's only redeeming feature was that the EV3 system provided good remote control and allowed it to reach about 10mph. I sure hope this One:1 turns out better than mine did - so far looks very promising...

I've realised that it's possible to make a valid LDD if the diagonal axle is shorter than the gap, but not if it's longer. You just need to build the frame without the diagonal axle, then put the axle in. Best axle lengths are 6 studs or 3 studs.

That connection is basically assuming that sqrt(8) = 3 (it isn't :P). I haven't tried that connection myself - it might be close enough to fudge it, but you'd risk breaking or bending something. If you're going to do that connection type, the best ax to use between the two 135-degree joiners (in order from best to worst): 16 studs (error of 0.03) 6 studs (error of 0.07) 9 studs (error of 0.10) After that, your one is the next best.

Looks great! I know there aren't instructions, but any chance of instructions for the front axle of RT2? I just really like the way it has positive castor and is so compact.

Incredible! If anything, this highlights how amazing it is that humans are so accurate at catching, and we don't have to do advanced maths like the robot does.

I haven't been into LEGO for a long time (almost all my TECHNIC parts are less than 3 years old), so I can't comment on whether durability has decreased. I've experienced very little wear/damage on pieces, which is pretty surprising considering the things I've subjected them to. The only piece that I think could be stronger is the transmission driving ring - I broke the bits that lock it to the 16-tooth clutch gears, making it unusable. To be fair, I was experimenting with a gigantic flywheel energy-storage system, but I think the piece was too weak. I wonder how the new 3L driving rings work.

Very interesting drivetrain - how well does it perform when turning?

Definitely, and it would look much better! You could consider buying the 42043 set - that's got 13 light grey 5x11 panels, plus a load of other parts that you'll find useful.

Cool - any underside pics? The stickers give it character, but that one on the left of the rear bumper ...

This'll be huge! I look forward to seeing the finished build!

Looks amazing, and is incredibly fast! The roof could do with a better curve from front to back, but that's the only criticism.

Just leave, and maybe put a note in your signiture. Besides, you might want to come back when you feel ready to.

That 25 studs width value is based on the minimum for driven independent suspension with 68.8X36 ZR tyres (those are the norm for 1:10). 3 for the diff, 2 for the diff support (often either an "O" or "H" frame), 12 for the joints (either U or cardan, both need 3 studs each), 2 for the wheel support (usually a hub) and 6 for the rest of the wheels. Width of a One:1 is 1996mm, so that's almost exactly 25 studs. If you need to go wider, go proportionately longer and taller too. I'm no expert, but usually I allow myself to scale everything up by a maximum of 10% - any more and the wheels look too small. So 28 might just be OK, but it won't be 1:10 any more.

Looks great! Any internal pics of the gearbox?

I tend to be limited by parts - I only have enough electronics and panelling for one model. But when I'm doing the bodywork of one MOC, I find it hard to focus since the part I really enjoy is making the mechanism. So I tend to overlap my MOCs a little bit - while I'm doing the bodywork of one, I make a start on the mechanisms (such as the suspension) of the next. As for rebuilding, I do it all the time. I recently dismantled the entire rear axle of my current WIP in order to build a better version. When working on new gearbox designs, I rebuild many, sometimes dozens of times. The more you rebuild, the better your end result will be - you might have more space for another function!

Nice! I made a piano some time ago (well before I started posting on here) using an IR sensor. But this is a really cool idea!

When I first saw the drivetrain for the tracks, I thought "That 20-tooth single-bevel gear is going to break". Yet I haven't heard any complaints of that happening so far. Hope the UK price doesn't go up - £179.99 is a great price, especially considering Brexit's effect on the exchange rates...

True. Apparently one hour of video is uploaded to Youtube every second, so Youtube would need 17,176 staff just to keep up with all the videos being added (assuming 40 hours a week minus 28 days of leave per year). Add to that the time spent investigating whether a video has been copied and you have a big dent in Google's (bigger, tax-free) profits.

Nice - looks a little too blocky and tall, but that's expected at this scale. You've replicated the shape of the rear wing very well!

From your numbers, an extra EV3, 4 Large motors, IR sensor and set of cables would add 679g. The extra structure to support the extra motors and brick can't possibly take this over 1kg. Double the power at the cost of a 28% weight increase seems reasonable as long as the tracks have enough grip.

You can just double-up the servos - for each servo currently on the tank, add an extra one hard-coupled next to it. You'll need two EV3 bricks though, and you'll need to connect them with Bluetooth. I don't own multiple EV3s, so I don't know how to do it, but I've heard that it's relatively easy.

Sheesh. 18 subscribers from all that copied stuff. Even my highly unprofessional channel has 33 subs off far fewer videos. Why bother? These people are a blight to Youtube and I hope this channel gets deleted. Not acceptable at all.

A better two-cylinder LPE with minimal valve deadpoint and entirely stock parts. The limiting factor seems to be the motor - the motor stalls at times. I think I'll try using the adder with the M-motor, then drop the gear ratio from 1:5 to 1:3 if I need to. * That's defininitely not the first time people have asked me that :P. Over on the LEGO Galleries, I'm known for ridiculous flywheel experiments.

Nice! Doesn't look that strong, but it really is! Probably not. I've managed to make an EV3-ised 42043 set with four driven axles, all driven by motors. Used loads of gears in the drivetrain (plus U-joints), but drove fine despite weighing about 5kg.