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TheMindGarage

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by TheMindGarage

  1. That's going too far. It isn't the best set, but don't destroy the individual pieces! I was hoping that the Porsche would be a good challenge for the 4x4 (it's pretty heavy and robustly built) - I wasn't expecting destruction like that...
  2. Unlikely that any of those will be accepted. LEGO Rebrick legal page
  3. I meant that initially, I read it as just a Porsche 911 GT3 RS (the real one). Don't think LEGO's competition budget stretches quite that far. Although a ride in one would have been a cool prize...
  4. I might have a go at this one if I've got time... I read this bit too quickly and skipped out the underlined bit. Guess I got too hopeful about the prizes...
  5. PLEASE destroy the Porsche next. Or maybe use the Bucket Wheel Excavator to pick up the remains and show which set SHOULD be the flagship .
  6. I usually just look at pictures and measure the tyres from that. The only thing I know from that is that "Y" refers to the speed rating of the tyre. A quick check shows that Y tyres are rated for up to 300kmph.
  7. I've seen that before and it's very nice, but I think the problem is in getting the driving rings to engage at the right points in the shift cycle rather than making a 6-point shifter module.
  8. No it isn't. In fact, it's near perfect... I have measured a LEGO piston engine to have a bore of around 10mm (diameter), and a stroke of 8mm (one stud). This gives one cylinder 0.628 cc. Scaling for 1:8.85 (the scale mentioned earlier) gives 435.5 scale cc per cylinder. 12 cylinders gives 5226 cc - remarkably close to the real DB11's 5.2-litre engine.
  9. The problem is probably buildability. I have created a working 8-speed sequential paddle-shifter that actually works with RC, but it uses strange building techniques that the casual instruction-user probably wouldn't want to do. Several times I had to bend the entire structure to get a crucial piece in. Either that or the majority of the MOC-ers on this site would be good replacements for the current LEGO designers...
  10. Nice! I might use this in one of my upcoming MOCs!
  11. You mean 27 positions? 3^3 is 27. Listing them with L being left position, R being right position and N being neutral position: LLL LRL NNL RLL RRL LLN LRN NNN RLN RRN LLR LRR NNR RLR RRR LNL NLL NRL RNL LNN NLN NRN RNN LNR NLR NRL RNR Boldface ones are those that you'll actually want to use (NNN can be useful as a neutral gear, but you probably don't want to consider that).
  12. Could you post a picture of your setup? That would make things easier. Common fixes for steering systems: Is the gear driven by the servo supported on both sides of the gear? If not, extend that axle and add structural support on the other side of the mechanism. Gears supported on both sides mesh much better. Is the rack guided properly? Wriggle the rack and see how much give it has. You ideally want no give - use structural beams to keep the rack in place and stop it from moving backwards and forwards. Is the gear the right size? If you have tried everything above and it still won't work, try moving up a gear size (from 8t to 12t for example). It should be a snug but not difficult fit.
  13. Maybe a Pagani Huayra with all the aerodynamic flaps adjustable from the cockpit? Or maybe a gigantic model of a V8 engine with transparent cylinders. With detail of course - the intake and exhaust valves should open and close, and the fans/turbochargers shoudl also work. Wouldn't be pneumatic, but a motor to show the V8 working would be nice. Maybe a gearbox attached to it as well.
  14. If you don't mind losing the Ackermann steering geometry, replace the steering arms with one of those light-grey 3-stud beams with 4 pins attached to them (like the short one you already have, but longer). Then change the rack to a slightly longer 9-stud one.
  15. It's because studs are difficult. Bricks are 1.2 studs (9.6mm) tall, so that makes some functions pretty strange. Bricks don't look nearly as good as beams and panels unless you cover the studs completely with flat tiles, which adds TONS of weight. Also, I think beams and pins more accurately reflect structures (such as those on the boom of a crane) than bricks.
  16. Simply incredible! My favourite car, and the looks are stunning! Far better than my attempt from a few months back: Umm... yeah. To be fair, I had only been building with TECHNIC/MINDSTORMS for two years, so what do you expect? The only good thing about it is that it had a top speed of 10mph and did 0-6mph in 2.7 seconds.
  17. I'm not a fan of custom electronics. The fastest I've ever managed to get a vehicle going was around 20kmph, but that was literally three EV3 Large motors, an EV3 brick (fitted with 1.5V batteries rather than my usual 1.2V rechargeables), some wheels and a couple of gears. It couldn't steer, and took ages to accelerate. I could probably have gotten slightly higher speeds by using the RC motors - this would avoid the need for massive gearing up. I have however come close to matching the 0-60 time of a supercar through scaling. Some time ago, I made a 1:10 Koenigsegg One:1. It didn't have a gearbox (just drive, steering and suspension), but it did 0-6mph (remember this is 1:10 scale) in 2.7 seconds - very similar to the real car's 0-60.
  18. Since when were supercars "everyday" vehicles? I'd happily take a Porsche 911 GT3 RS any day... Erm... Do go-karts count ?
  19. The BUCKET WHEEL EXCAVATOR isn't even the flagship model! Seems like TECHNIC made loads of large, great sets this year rather than just making the flagship big.
  20. Difficult but possible. I don't have any examples, but you could try looking at 6/5+R sequential gearboxes. The shift mechanism will be very similar to what you want.
  21. Wow that's compact ! And I thought I was good at cramming stuff in! My supercars are 1:10 scale, but then they have MINDSTORMS parts in them, which take up loads of space. I love your clever gearbox design - I've never thought of flattening the standard 4-speed design. Amazing job - looking forward to the finished car.
  22. Maybe not as far as I put it, but too far in my opinion. If it was purely intended as a display set, then it would probably be near the optimal point. But it's TECHNIC, which to me means functions. I would happily buy a TECHNIC car if it had no body at all, as long as it had plenty of working functions (like a gearbox that shifts reliably and doesn't produce so much resistance).
  23. Really? I'm the opposite . Most of my MOCs don't look terribly good (although that's partly because I have few curved panels and flexible parts), but I can cram suspension, 8-speed gearbox and a MIINDSTORMS EV3 brick (with 4 motors) into a 1:10 car and still have room for a cabin. Sometimes I wonder whether I've reached the limit of compactness, but then I manage to fit another function without making the car any bigger. Back to the point, the Porsche is not targetting the typical LEGO fan - it's more for car fans and possibly even non-LEGO-enthusiasts who want something cool to show off. I've heard people saying that the car would still sell even if it had no gearbox - strange as that sounds, I'm starting to agree to that... That would be truly cool . Preferably with better functions such as RC or a gearbox that is actually viable.
  24. It's because odd lengths give you better symmetry. In a studless car for example, you'll want the driveshaft in the middle, and that takes up 1 stud. If you want say 12 studs on each side of the driveshaft, that adds up to 25. If you wanted it 26 studs wide instead, your driveshaft would be off-center by half a stud - ugly ... On the other hand, bricks come in even lengths because their holes are positioned differently. For example, a 4-stud brick has 3 holes in it, with the middle hole being exactly in the middle. That's why it makes sense to have even bricks and odd beams.
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