TheMindGarage

Looks good, but as said above, the fenders look a little strange. Although it's good enough to be instantly recogniseable as a Porsche.

Well, I'm planning a model "loosely" based on the 911 that is smaller (roughly 1:10 scale) than the 42056, but with about double the functionality (8 speed gearbox, better suspension, folding roof, 4-wheel steering, possibly suspension tuning controls). I bet that'll give the 42056's designers a little shock...

I'm pretty sure LDD entries are allowed. Anyway, for this scale, looks amazing! Not very technic-like, but it's not like you're going to be able to fit an engine, steering system or gearbox into this :P. Headlights and grille are especially well-done.

That really helps. Sometimes I have two WIPs on the go, but I become much more absorbed in one of them and end up ditching the other. Recognise what you enjoy building and build more of those - don't force yourself to build a certain thing (say a Porsche) if you deep down really want to build something else. It's about the building process at least as much as the end goal!

Nice! I like the looks a lot, and the parts used to make the back of the seats are imaginative. My entry will have the 914 name (914.5 to be precise), but won't be anything like the real 914...

I made something vaguely similar a while ago. The wheels are made of the larger (5-stud wide) tank treads bent the wrong way - I discovered that using between 30 and 45 of these per wheel gives a nice tight loop to use as a gigantic wheel (for those who don't want to splash out on Hailfire Droid wheels). It reached about 20kmph in a test run, although takes a long time to reach that speed. As for turning on the spot, that happens at about 4 full turns every second when running at maximum speed.

Britain is still technically in the EU since Article 50 hasn't been triggered yet. But when it happens, I would imagine that shipping becomes more complicated. However, the main impact is that the Pound has fallen in value, so buying sets from outside the UK will cost you more £s.

Most RC helicopters tend to be 14+ (saying "Not a Toy"), so 18+ wouldn't be needed. The limit is probably the strength of gears - wouldn't want to try using an brushless motor :P. I think it's mostly to protect the motor from stalling. But in official sets, usually the clutch gear slips WELL before the motor stalls - maybe when the motor gets slowed to 2/3 speed. Not optimal or necessary - I've put motors through plenty of abuse and they're still fine.

The sheer number of parts is what makes me want this set. I tend to build sets once and then use them for parts, and the sheer number of them (more than 50 "O" frames and tons of beams) will be a huge help for my MOCs. Those new gear parts could also be interesting to use in a mono- or bi-wheel device.

Amazing gearbox mechanism! The front grille looks a little strange though - did someone put a piano keyboard there :P?

Nice functions and great looks! The swept-back wings look a little weird, but maybe that's just me. I love the propeller system with the piston engines!

Nice! With an RC motor on there, it must be pretty quick! A pic of the brake mechanism would be nice.

Wow! Amazing looks! Many builders (me included) have a tendency to rush the rear, but you've kept the look right to the very back. Same! The rear wing looks very much like that on a Koenigsegg One:1, and the door system is also common on Koenigseggs.

Looks pretty good, although I agree with Jurss - the seats are rather small. Other than that, it looks good!

This is my first MOC on this site! Bear in mind that I have only been building for slightly more than 2 years and don't have a very large collection, so my builds aren't exactly Sheepo standard... The car is a 1:10 model, although I had to deviate from the scale slightly in order to fit the functionality I wanted into the car (width was increased to 25 studs for example). Here are the features (LONG list): Remote control drive with three EV3 Large motors. Top speed around 5mph. Drive goes to all four wheels via two diffs. Remote-control steering with EV3 Medium motor. Turning radius is rather large though. 8-speed automatic hybrid gearbox. Basically a 4-speed automatic and a 2-speed ratchet gearbox (inspired by Sariel) used together. A model piston engine (V6) in the front with engine capacity scaled to the real car (I measured mine at 3.77cc, real car is 3.8l). Lever in cabin with Drive/Neutral/Brake settings. Handbrake system and rear friction brakes. Full independent suspension with negative camber angle. Adjustable ride height for each wheel through tuning dials (front ones are under the hood, rear ones are hidden next to the spoiler). Adjustable castor angle for each of the front wheels (adjusted by rotating the turntables). Opening sprung doors with locks. Opening sprung front hood. Cabin with fake steering wheel (non-rotating), FOUR SEATS and a floor. Pic with doors and hood open, revealing the model engine. The red pads on the hood are rubber friction pads (from EV3 Education Expansion set) - these keep the hood closed. Close ups showing the piston engine and suspension. When the tuning screws are turned, a worm gear system rotates the arm where the shock absorbers are mounted. Adjustment range is about 2 studs. Castor is adjusted by turning the turntables - this effectively rotates the entire suspension system relative to the chassis. Beams from the chassis are placed to interfere with the rotation of the turntables - this keeps the turntables in place when not adjusted. The cabin is fitted with a full set of 4 seats, as in the real car. The occupants of the rear seat are given the rare treat of having gears from the 2-speed ratchet gearbox right next to them. When the drive setting is enabled, a driving ring allows the motors to drive the 4-speed gearbox. In neutral, the driving ring meshes with nothing, letting the car roll freely. In Handbrake, the driving ring locks the input shaft of the 4-speed gearbox to the output using a gear ratio that isn't part of the gearbox, effectively locking the shaft. This is like solving the equation 3x=x (x is the rotation speed of the shaft) - x can only be zero. Part of the drivetrain is shown here. The differential and elastic system measures the resistance on the input. The system on the bottom-left shifts gears when the resistance is too low or high. The 4-speed gearbox is a standard 5/3/1.67/1 design - the 2-speed's gear ratios fit "in between" these. Notice the towball links and lever below (remember this is an upside-down view) the gearbox. Those control the rear brakes. In Handbrake mode, the brakes are engaged. Here is a graph showing the 8 power bands (created with Microsoft Excel). The lines are cut off when the spreadsheet calculates that the motors run out of torque. This graph used data from my test runs, so the performance shown here is similar to that in real life. Top view of the rear with the body removed. The drive motors are visible, and the 16-tooth gears (used as tuning dials for the rear suspension) can be seen. This is the underside of the rear axle. When the towball link is pulled, the red rubber pad swings outwards and grips the inside of the wheel. I made the rather radical decision to leave the EV3 brick exposed at the back. I decided that covering it up would require too many parts, add too much weight and deviate from the scale. The GTR's four red rear lights are modelled with new-type 16-tooth clutch gears. Overall, I think this has been a successful build for me, cramming in far more features than any of my prior builds (in fact, I am yet to see a 1:10 supercar model with more functionality). However, some things could have been improved: It isn't a perfect scale mode. The seats are way too far forward - I had to do this to fit the monstrous powertrain inside. The rear end aesthetic requires, well, some getting used to. Rear wheels sometimes rub against the top of their fenders. Can be solved by setting the tuning to maximum ride-height. Negative camber angle is too pronounced. Steering lock is very small, and gets even smaller if castor angle is set to extremes. Gearbox tends to be rather "reluctant" to shift gear - this was the only way to stop it from constantly alternating between two gears. It isn't exactly GTR like when driven. GTRs are known for their acceleration, but the model takes ages to get up to speed. It drives more like a truck. My next build will be my Porsche competition entry - no EV3 will be involved for that, although plenty more features (did someone mention 4-wheel steering?)...

If you want to set a "Home position", you need the Motor Rotation block (yellow) and use the "Reset" mode. This sets the position that will be treated as "0". When you want to return to home, use the Motor Rotation block set to "Degrees", a Math block set to "x" and the motor block. Basically, you want to take the output of the degrees block, multiply by -1 and then use that as the number of degrees to rotate. Example: Motor is 90 degrees away from start point (block reads "90"). Rotate by -90 degrees. Home !

Looks nice so far! I like the front design.

I have very few parts - I'm a relatively new builder. I have the MINDTORMS 31313, the Education MINDSTORMS Expansion set, the 42043, the 42006 and some other random parts from older stuff. For this reason, my builds are mostly light grey, using the 13 5x11 flat panels from the Arocs as the main part of the body. I have a decent amount of black and white panels/beams, so I sometimes use those colours as well. Due to my parts limitation, I often have to build parts of the car in grey and parts in black.

Nice start! I'm basing my entry on the 918, but will include some features from the 911 (like the targa-style roof and flat 6 engine). It seems to have very little in common with the 42056 from the outside. Wait.. those parts on the wheel rims...

Interesting. I wouldn't think of this as a conventional Porsche, but I guess the headlights do look Porsche-like. Finally someone who builds an actual "dream Porsche" and not an existing model!

About 5 years ago, rumours were around hinting at a new supercar positioned between the 911 and 918 Spyder. Some dubbed it the "914.5", coming from the mean of the two model numbers. Unfortunately, such a car hasn't yet arrived, and I plan to solve that problem. This will be the true "Dream Porsche", taking features from both the 918 Spyder and the 911 Targa. It will combine the hybrid all-wheel drive and 4-wheel steering of the 918 with the iconic rear-mounted flat-6 engine and roof of the Targa. Here are my definite features: Flat-6 engine mounted in rear 8-speed paddle-shifting manual gearbox (connected to piston engine, driving rear) Fake electric motors "driving" the front and rear (as in the 918) Full independent suspension with camber angle, castor angle and adjustable ride-height (independent adjustment for each wheel). Not sure where the ride-height controls will be - probably under the front hood. 4-wheel steering (as in the 918) operated by the steering wheel. Opening hood and locking doors. 2 seats inside. Folding roof modelling the 911 Targa's mechanism. Here are features that I might add if I have enough space and parts: Brakes - not sure how these would be operated if they get added. A PF Large motor and battery box to drive the front axle. Like the 918, the front is single-speed. Unfortunately, the only RC stuff I have is MINDSTORMS, which would be too bulky for this. Opening rear revealing the engine. The car will be 1:10 scale - considerably smaller than the 911 GT3 RS from LEGO. I haven't started building yet - I still need to add a couple of finishing touches on my current build. However, most of the "technologies" (such as an 8-speed gearbox and adjustable suspension) already exist in my current build, so this will likely be finished by mid-July. UPDATE 1 (03/07/2016): Paddle-shifting mechanism and steering wheel mount Having dismantled my previous build, I have built this compact steering wheel mount with an integrated paddle shifter. The two levers on either side of the steering wheela are paddle-shifters. They shift when pushed inwards. Here is a side view: Each paddle makes a lever move downwards and hit the cross-shaped element. I initially used a knob wheel, but it was too small for the lever to make it advance far enough. When the lever extends, the cross rotates about 75 degrees before the lever blocks it from going any further. When the paddle is released, the lever retracts and allows the cross to rotate the final 15 degrees. The paddles have rubber bands to make them return to their original position when released. The part with the wedge-belt wheels can slide a short distance. It too has rubber bands - this makes the cross "snap" to the nearest 90 degrees and provides the turning force for the final 15 degrees of rotation. There is also a universal joint - this is connected to the steering wheel.

I agree - I think a concept Porsche or a mix of several different Porsches (that's what I'm planning on doing) would be better than recreating an existing car, but I guess if they dream of driving it, nobody should stop them from entering it. I guess the judges will have to decide how much "dreaminess" they want in an entry.

Probably because they have the most appeal. There are plenty of other cool things that could be built, but they probably wouldn't sell as well (in set form) as a vehicle. I would love to see a mechanical calculator as a set, but most people are more interested in vehicles. That said, if you want to break the trend with your MOCs, feel free!

Cool! Looks very much like an F1 car. Steering geometry looks a little strange (pivots are far from the wheel), but that's unavoidable when you use small wheels. Cockpit and rear wing are amazing .

Nice - very fast! The limited-slip diff is a nice idea, but I'm not sure if it's a true LSD. From what I can see, it acts as a solid axle but with a small amount of freedom on each whee, so if you tried to drive it in circles, the wheels would end up slipping.