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TheMindGarage

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Everything posted by TheMindGarage

  1. TheMindGarage
    Not knowingly. My usual technique is "if it fits without breaking a piece, go with it" . I know they exist and have probably used them at some point, but I quite often form imperfect triples and quadruples.
  2. TheMindGarage
    Looks great so far! A couple of guesses to what car this is inspired by: Jaguar F-type SVR? Lamborghini Huracan?
  3. TheMindGarage
    Gear meshing isn't this gearbox's strong point since most of the meshing patterns aren't "perfect" meshes (they are either marginally too close together or too far apart, leading to either increased friction or increased backlash). You can try making a version with fewer outputs/gears - the fewer outputs, the better you will be able to place them and the better they will mesh. Building a gearbox like this requires a lot of experimenting to find the best meshing patterns possible.
  4. TheMindGarage
    $1m is ridiculous for 10,000lbs of LEGO. I highly doubt this is serious. If you really wanted $1m worth of TECHNIC, there are far cheaper ways to do it, and at least with these you know exactly what you're getting: 3,571 Bucket Wheel Excavators 3,333 Porsche 911 GT3 RSs And both of these sets contain well over 3lbs of LEGO. Plus the first option gives you 3,571 XL motors, 3,571 battery boxes, and both give you tons of clutch parts. If this offer is real, I bet it's going to be mostly basic parts with no motors or rare parts.
  5. TheMindGarage
    I agree - making half-stud adjustments is tricky already, but half a stud is already a significant amount when you're adjusting camber angle. Sometimes I've used L-shaped arms for finer adjustments - if the original arm is 4 studs long, I can go 4x1 (that's sqrt17 studs).
  6. TheMindGarage
    I'd have thought that using CV joints (which allow the axle inserted into them to slide a little) would get rid of this problem. Maybe I'm wrong and the problem is that the shaft only has two flex-points.
  7. TheMindGarage
    If someone copied a bit of my MOC with no modifications or only slight tweaks, I would expect credit to be given. But if they just used an idea (say my RotoShift transmission) to build something, credit would be nice but not essential.
  8. TheMindGarage
    My videos aren't that great, but I've invested in a good tripod. Lighting is far more important than camera imo. As for music, I've composed my own music using MuseScore2. Probably the best free software you can get (pretty similar to Sibelius if you ask me).
  9. TheMindGarage
    I haven't noticed this - usually the friction on thes is negligible.
  10. TheMindGarage
    I'm not an expert on PF, but I think the L motor gives better power-to-space than the XL motor. But if those are the prices, the XL one is a good buy - its only real flaw is that it's rather slow and so could do with some gearing up. But if you're having one motor per module, you'd be best with M motors.
  11. TheMindGarage
    At the moment you should have: Casing rotates at ~100RPM with 2.8 XL motors of torque One shaft rotates at ~250RPM backwards (if this shaft is rotating in the same direction as the casing, you're losing power) with 2 L motors of torque Output rotates at ~450RPM. But if you apply a load to the output, the Large motors will stall well before the XL motors do. In fact, I'd go as far as saying that the Large motors will get driven backwards if you apply a load. Basically this will happen: Casing rotates at ~100RPM Output stalled to 0RPM Shaft with L motors gets forced to rotate ~200RPM forwards I would recommend replacing those three 16-tooth gears with a 12:20:12 combination or possibly even 8:24:8. This will mean that both inputs of the adder get similar torque and will prevent this situation of one input forcing the other. You can always gear up after the adder.
  12. TheMindGarage
    Use plenty of light and a white background. I only have access to a compact camera, but it gives decent results when you take the pictures from far away with high optical zoom.
  13. TheMindGarage
    Sorry for not updating for a while - been busy with other MOCs. Here's the first design of the rear axle and some of the drivetrain: The axle is 27 studs wide, fitting with the scale I chose (slightly bigger than 1:10, scaled to the front wheel size). It is fully independent and is fitted with a Triplex ant-squat bar setup. The main shock absorbers are fixed - it is likely that I will make them adjustable later. Each wheel's camber angle is also adjustable by moving. the top wishbone in and out. From my tests, there is enough resistance provided by the two axles for the camber angle setting to stay when under heavy load. The Medium motor is there. I've decided to change the drivetrain layout and make the Large motor geared up 3:5 and the Medium motor geared 1:1 (plus the diff's 7:5 down). The 1:9 gearing up after the differential has been installed on one side - the other gears are still in another MOC. Currently my plan is to have the Large motors for each side of the differential driving those black 8-stud shafts. Part of the support structure for these motors has been installed. This leaves a 9-stud wide gap between the two motors - this will house my EV3 brick. The third Large motor (coupled to the Medium) will be further forward, probably posing as the center console. Looks like there will be plenty of space for a cabin - seems like I underestimated how much extra space I would get from not having a transmission.
  14. TheMindGarage
    That front end looks amazing! Chassis looks cool too - any close-ups of the suspension?
  15. TheMindGarage
    Strangely the first picture makes the front look too steeply angled and too tall at the front, but it looks spot-on in the other pics. Would take this over a 42056 any day.
  16. TheMindGarage
    I think a centrifugal device would work best. The only problem with those is that they have a tendency to jump from fully closed (indicating low speed) to fully open (indicating high speed) very quickly, and they are quite large. Differentials can be used to measure torque (that's how the automatic gearboxes work), but they can't be used as mechanical tachometers.
  17. TheMindGarage
    So am I. I probably don't have as many pieces as the top model on the list! But then I'm relatively inexperienced and new to TECHNIC. I never leave anything built for more than a week or so. Once I finish a MOC, I almost immediately salvage parts from it for my next one.
  18. TheMindGarage
    I think the difference is functionality. For example, the 1:17 Ferrari LMP1 car (if you haven't seen it, you should - it's amazing) doesn't have any TECHNIC functions like steering/suspension, so it's more like Creator.
  19. TheMindGarage
    Nice - I love the front grille!
  20. TheMindGarage
    Looks amazing! So detailed, both inside and outside!
  21. TheMindGarage
    Not sure why - maybe reviewers aren't comfortable with showing their voice? Well, there's clearly a gap in the market - anyone want to fill it?
  22. TheMindGarage
    I just go with the manufacturer values, although your rule of thumb generally matches real cars quite closely.
  23. TheMindGarage
    Amazing job ! Love the looks - interesting custom engine.
  24. TheMindGarage
    Looks like a good idea - simple but cool!
  25. TheMindGarage
    Ah - that one. I agree - that's one of the best car MOCs I've seen. Mine probably won't look quite as good...
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