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Didumos69

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by Didumos69

  1. @Saberwing40k, @TechnicRCRacer, @BusterHaus, I think I'm on to my final winch. It's very compact and uses the 2585 string reel drum. It's slightly narrower than 2 studs (it fits inside a 2 studs wide string reel holder), so when it's used inside a toggle joint there's some room for two silicon bands that induce some friction to the reel. The only thing I still need is a string.
  2. Thanks! If possible I don't want the winch to rise above the tow-arm. I tried this and it works quite okay. There's a 1x1 round plate inside the toggle joint, which induces some friction on the 8t gear. Still have to see how it works wit a string attached though. I have to look into that. I might even change some things and/or colors to make it closer to a c-model, but I'm afraid I will end up using some extra parts.
  3. Thanks! I will certainly make instructions and put them on Rebrickable. Probably a photo sequence. I think all should be finished by the end of next week. @TechnicRCRacer, @BusterHaus and @Saberwing40k, thanks for the hints! This is certainly going to be useful! @Saberwing40k, I suppose I can put an axle in the rotatling part. Does the part you use have some kind of anti-slip friction build in?
  4. Excellent work! I also really like to see your models on Rebrickable these days. I think it will give your excellent cranes much more 'reach' . So you plan for instructions for this one too?
  5. I could actually use one , my eyes sometimes have trouble zooming in on details. I made some improvements: Improved steering, check. Steering confined to avoid tire scrub, check. Outriggers, check. Smaller gear in the back, check. Only thing that would be nice to add is a winch to pull a car on the tow. Somewhere in the area right behind the cabin. Anyone having an idea?
  6. I have an idea for outriggers as @Appie suggested. Maybe I can tie them together with a red silicon band so they either want to sit straight up or tight to the ground. I also started with a winch, but without a brake it doesn't make much sense.
  7. With a little luck it should be possible to build it in yellow, blue and red. All these colors have been used for tow trucks in the past. I have figured out two options to improve the steering while preserving the solid axle suspension. EDIT: make that three options:
  8. Using the white connectors with ridges inside the driving rings doesn't work. The 90 degree limiter is not strong enough to make the rings pass the ridges. Two things that might help: Tighten the 90 degree limiter: Add extra silicon bands around the 2L liftarms as depicted below. Downside is that you need more power to shift. Shorten the change over catches as depicted below, so the driving rings are forced into the clutch gears a little deeper. Downside is that this may induce more friction as the clutch gears may get squeezed between the driving rings and the liftarms behind them.
  9. I'm afraid not. You could skip the center diff an replace it with a single 10L axle with a 16t gear on one side and a 20t gear on the other, the latter sandwiched between 2 12t gears, but that would leave you with two speeds being the same. Perhaps you could just skip first or fourth gear and use only 3 speeds.
  10. It's funny that you say this, because I've always regarded my small Porsche and Seaplane as part of a trilogy and I'm still in pursuit of a third model with the same signature to add to that trilogy. However, this is not that third model. With this model I wanted something that carries the label Technic more legitimately. So I agree that when compared to the trilogy, this model is a bit off, but that's because I want it to have some real Technic features. But you did give me a nice idea to finish my trilogy , hopefully with outriggers and all .
  11. Thanks guys! I'm not that happy with the steering yet. It feels quite wobbly. Well, that's the imaginary part . It's a simplification of the real thing . I just made the first prototype (bought myself the new telehandler to get the necessary parts). Turns out the 1L worm gear has a different diameter compared to the 2L worm gear, so I used the old worm gear instead. The steering needs improvement, it feels very wobbly. I might have to sacrifice the front axle suspension... Hahaha!
  12. As a small summer project I wanted to make a small 40th anniv. tribute model. With the tow truck being an ever-returning story in LEGO (Technic) history (list), there could be no doubt about what kind of vehicle to pick. I will start off with a small tow truck design I have laying around for more than a year, improve it, build it, improve it and make instructions for it. Features: HoG steering Front suspension: Solid axle Rear suspension: Bogie axles Working tow Working winch Outriggers Current progress: I added a winch. It's very compact and uses the 2585 string reel drum. It's slightly narrower than 2 studs (it fits inside a 2 studs wide string reel holder), so when it's used inside a toggle joint there's some room for two silicon bands that induce some friction to the reel. The only thing I still need is a string.
  13. Which is quite understandable. For what it's worth; I managed to reduced the number of replacement parts a little and updated the image in my post.
  14. Good to know! How did you deal with not having the wheel hubs? I don't know much about motorizing, but why lubricate the drivetrain if it's smooth already?
  15. I don't know for sure if I analyzed the most recent image correctly, but can't you replace the 3x3 connector with this? It's less rigid and weaker because it relies on axle-axle hole friction rather than pin-pinhole friction, but maybe it's strong enough:
  16. Does the UW-logo above the grill of the 42070 tow truck indicate this model has been designed by Uwe Wabra, the man who also designed the 42056 Porsche (and also some good sets)? And what is the wolf on the side door about? EDIT: Just had a better look: the text on the door reads as "Wolf Valley - Towing Service"
  17. Sadly enough, the 60158-small panels are indeed not yellow, but flame yellowish orange.
  18. These kind of links are dead throughout the entire forum since the major upgrade last year. I went through all my posts, videos and rebrickables to correct this for my own content. I also reported it in the upgrade thread. EDIT: From looking at the links more closely: Some index-entries have pre-upgrade links to the HoF topic only, which is simply not correct (for instance the Land-rover Defender 110 entry under the 4x4 section links to http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=91953). Some index-entries have pre-upgrade links to comments, which also redirect to the HoF topic (for instance the Toyota Land Cruiser Prado 150 entry under the 4x4 section links to http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=91953&st=25#entry1907081) Btw, it seems that the index isn't up-to-date either. Recently added MOCs are not listed.
  19. I meant to suggest a single image in the post and the others in the spoiler. I know moderators don't like reoccurring images, but they don't mind adding images in posts when it's useful.
  20. That is going to be very hard. I tried to make custom hubs but it's not possible to fit U-joints between the pins with ball-joints.
  21. Nice topic! Why hide all images? I wouldn't mind seeing a single image in each MOC post.
  22. I wouldnt mind of course, but I leave that up to others. Maybe a special category with cars that continue a line of models set in by LEGO itself with models like 8865 and 8880 and also 8448. I can live without HoF though.
  23. I sort of feel the same way and most of the time I don't bother, but apparently it is something alive and I can't help noticing that gorgeous looking cars are added almost instantaneously whithout any idea of the build quality, while other more technic-focused cars are sometimes overlooked. I understand it is arbitrary, so it requires thorough moderation and then still it won't meet everybody's wishes. The same is true for pro badges etcetra. Having a MOC index sounds great, but it will probably have the same difficulty in deciding which should be added and which not. In any case. I think it would be a good thing if each HoF or MOC entry would have a short review summary. Perhaps some members could be assigned the role of MOC reviewer and whenever a MOC is nominated a handful of MOC reviewers - with one lead reviewer - is concerned with writing a short objective (?) review and maybe even with giving a rating. I wouldn't mind being a MOC reviewer for manual MOCs . PS, I assume you will move this reply to the HoF discussion along with the other posts.
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