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Didumos69

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by Didumos69

  1. Didumos69
    I'm here to drink a fat beer at the bar and complain about the fact that when it comes to cars, the HoF is mostly about slick panelling and scale modeling and not about Technic. I have nominated Attika's 8880 evo - I think on several occassions - and don't even get a reply .
  2. Didumos69
    Thanks! I guess I feel honored that people are enthousiastic about this build and want to build it event though they don't have all parts. @arshiaIQ, this is what you could do, but there will be quite some stress on the 3L thin levers in the upper A-arms.
  3. Didumos69
    Thank you @arshiaIQ! I'm afraid I can't handle this much praise, but I appreciatie it. I will take a look at how you could utilize the 42043 wishbones and come back to that. As for the CV-joints, you could replace 4 CV-joints with U-joints, but you still need 4 CV-males to insert into the wheel hubs.
  4. Didumos69
    I managed to pull out the 3L axles with knob quite easily to make the tear-down sequence; one by attaching a pinhole to the knob and one with my bare nails, but maybe I was lucky. To stay on the safe side you could replace the #2 connector between the 36t gears with a bush and use pins with stop bush instead of the 3L axles with knob. Haha, I don't, but I regard that as a compliment! I would love to work at their Technic quality assurance department though - if it exists . I sure would have vetoed the Porsche . But not only to send things back to the designers, also to add a finishing quality touch to each model.
  5. Didumos69
    I built my manual mixer and made instructions available on rebrickable:
  6. Didumos69
    I guess I did. I did my best to make it reliable and foolproof and like to know how people perceive it. Glad to know it works out the way I wanted . I guess this is indeed the type of guy for whom I designed this car .
  7. Didumos69
    Thanks for taking the time to build it! Nice to see a version with the original color scheme, except for the popping exhausts of course . What is your impression with respect to reliability and foolproofness?
  8. Didumos69
    I'm glad you like the suspension. I wanted to build suspension that really adds something when moving the car around. I really like that you're trying to motorize it. The 4-speed gearbox indeed has very few gears involved. I learned from the Porsche that having too many gears can cause a lot of friction. I also deliberately made sure the central diff is sandwiched between gears, so the chances of slipping are minimized. What might be a problem though, is that the gear ratios are quite far apart, they range from 1:3.5 up to 1:0.8. I'm also very curious whether you will succeed in operating the gear shift system with a servo motor. Good luck and please keep us posted!
  9. Didumos69
    I think @Attika's Tribute Model 8880 Evo deserves to be listed in the Hall of Fame supercar section. I have not seen so many technical features packed together in any other supercar.
  10. Didumos69
    I feel the same way. I would probably not have ordered the Porsche immediately after release, if reviews had not revealed the flawed gearbox.
  11. Didumos69
    Thank you very much @Kumbbl for putting this together. I have said it before, but you have taken @jb70's version to the next level, which makes this set even more valuable. However, your work would be even more valuable if you would collect all one needs to know in a single PDF that can be used as a side reference while building jb70's version (so there would be no need to make side jumps to the original posts in the mods and improvements thread), add a parts list with the parts you used extra compared to jb70's version and put everything on Rebrickable. I would not label it as 'The Porsche TLG should have made' though. I'm afraid what 'TLG should have made' is too much subject to personal taste. You could profile it as the ultimate accessories package for jb70's pimp-up version, a package which completes / continues the work started by others. This may sound like a lot of work, but I think you have most of the text and images available already. If you decide to take this on, you could use this thread for simply presenting the final result (I would like to see some end-result images anyway, a video would be even better) and provide links to Rebrickable. I think it would also take away any doubt about having a separate topic for this.
  12. Didumos69
    Of course you can.
  13. Didumos69
    I had to reposition quite a lot too. Here it is.
  14. Didumos69
    You are right. In the LXF-file the 7L panel and the second pin are missing. I still do not really like the long unsecured end of the 11L beam though, but I guess there are more volnerable spots in this set . Btw, the 7L panel is available in LDD now. I do not really favour one. I would have to actually build them to be able to compare them.
  15. Didumos69
    Great ! Take your time.
  16. Didumos69
    @Kumbbl, about the door locks. Isn't there a way to get rid of the flat plates? They come very close to the paddles and steering wheel IMO. @DayWalker's version doesn't seem perfect either because the black beams and orange panels are only connected with one pin. About the linear clutch you're suggesting to drop. There is still a very small chance of double engaged gears when shifting and pushing the model at the same time. To me it's a good practice to protect the drive train in such cases. Also, when the linear clutch tends to slip, I treat that as a sign that something is causing friction that shouldn't. Untill now I always managed to get things working without any slipping. Final question. I am planning to take apart my Porsche and build yours. Are you planning to bundle your mods as an add-on to @jb70"s instructions?
  17. Didumos69
    You're welcome! And thanks for taking on the challenge of building this model. Would be nice to see some pictures ! I'm really curious how RC-ing is going to turn out .
  18. Didumos69
    I noticed this too as did @I3Brick in this and following posts. EDIT: Also @charlesw confirmed this effect in this post. Let me recall my explanation:
  19. Didumos69
    This is the only example of Porsche rims with 2.2" RC tires I know of:
  20. Didumos69
    Thanks guys! I alo use the OP as an index to everything I posted about. I should update it.
  21. Didumos69
    Yea, true pioneering makes victims . I was afraid of that. I have no deformation so far, but I'm afraid that when the smaller tires are sitting around the bigger rims for a long time they will deform permanently. When I decide to incorporate this in my next build, I will accept that, as for the tires are concerned, there is no way back. Yea, I read about your plans the other day and was also happy you are sticking to the agreement. It could be that I have to lift my plans over the summer though. Worlking on a manual and rc version is no problem to me. I guess it gives me some room for interpretation too .
  22. Didumos69
    I tried that too, but it felt like too much stress to put them on the rims. And when I managed to do that I couldn't get them to stay inserted in the rims ridges as can also be seen in your image. Haha, that looks awesome! The Porsche tire is also inside the Claas tire? So it looks okay from both sides?
  23. Didumos69
    - Be cautious, I can't guarantee that stretching the balloon tire like this over a long time won't disform the tire - I have a deal with @DugaldIC that my next build will be a motorized model (his next build will be a HoG-model). This is very challenging for me, because I never did something with LEGO motors. I don't even own one. I'm thinking about a 4x4 off-road model with knob wheel drive. I want to use the Porsche rims - not because of their looks, but because of their deep offset - but I couldn't accept the use of third party off-road tires without first trying to see what I can do with 100% LEGO parts. So I have been puzzling with wrapping the 94.8 x 44 R Balloon Tire around the Porsche rims - which requires quite some force - but I couldn't get both sides of the tire inserted in the wheel ridges. There was allways one side popping out of one of the wheel ridges. But after some trial and error I found an easy way. Just put the Porsche tires inside the balloon tire, make sure you center it prefectly inside the balloon tire and wrap the two tires around the Porsche rim together. The inner tire will span the balloon tire widthwise and makes it easy to insert the tire sides into the wheel ridges. The inner tire also gives the balloon tire a pleasnt sturdy feel.
  24. Didumos69
    Agreed. I used the red 7l thin liftarms, because those were the only ones I had when I built the unit. I replaced them in the rebrickable inventory with their black (the cheapest) counterparts. About using the black parts. This has to do with one of my own rules of good design that I restrict myself to: Whenever a structure benefits from being secured firmly in the direction of the connection, it is better to use a pin-pinhole connection than to use an axle-axlehole connection. In this case I found the steering console to be better of with pin-pinhole connections, because axle-axlehole connections might disconnect when you pull the steering console backwards (towards the driver seat). But under normal circumstances, using the parts instead of won't do much harm, I suppose. I added the following notes on the rebrickable page: Important notes on instructions: - The expensive red 7L thin liftarms in the instructions can of course be substituted with the cheaper black versions, or any other color. In the inventory I replaced the red ones with black ones. - If you don't have black parts, you can replace them with black parts. To do that you also need to replace the two  to which they connect with two .
  25. Didumos69
    And a variant with gullwing doors. Here is a nice background story with overview of the concept car variants: http://www.technicbricks.com/2012/09/tbs-techreview-18-concept-car-by.html
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