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Didumos69

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by Didumos69

  1. Didumos69
    This is interesting. You gained 1L ? EDIT: Aha, I get it know, the answer lies in your signature .
  2. Didumos69
    I wasn't really serious about asking for forgiveness, it was an attempt to dramatize a little, I hope that was clear. After the serious Purism-topic of last week I thought let's take the subject a little more light-minded .
  3. Didumos69
    I used iron wire and a heated needle to melt small holes in the 1x1 brick pistons. I remember doing this at my father's workbench in the garage. The crankshaft broke, I don't recall how. I think in an attempt to attach one of its ends to an axle. The white tape around the crankshaft was to keep the piston connectors in position. Cutting my own 3L axles was because at that time they didn't exist. The need for small pistons also arose from only having the square 2x2 pistons back then. Later on I started modding my bike and then my moped.
  4. Didumos69
    And if this had been designed better, with reinforced A-arms, this might have been avoided...
  5. Didumos69
    Cool! Looking forward to your photo's!!! What's your impression so far?
  6. Didumos69
    - this is not to be taken too seriously - Okay, it's been over 30 years ago, but it's still bothering me. Time to come clean . I have cut my own 3L axles, I have made a constant-velocity joint from two U-joints and I even made my own crankshaft and pistons ! I'm sorry, I will never do this again . I hope you can forgive me! PS If you want to come clean too, or just like to confess your Technic sins, please confess them here.
  7. Didumos69
    Yea, the gearrack could be positioned on either side of the axles to obtain Ackermann steering. However, when using the new Porsche wheel hubs, it is practically impossible to bring the pivot points more to the outside, which is needed when the gearrack is on the bumper side of the axles (that is, I tried this and could not get it to work). Below you see some Ackermann steering setups. Crab-steering - The left setup shows what crab-steering on the Porsche actually means: There is an imaginary third axle without steering to the back of the rear axles. I assume the steered rear axles steer with less angle than the front axles. The Ackermann effect for the rear axles and front axles need to work in the same direction. The Ackermann effect for the rear axles needs to be much stronger than for the front axles. Crab-steering requires less Ackermann effect for the front axles than in a situation without rear wheel steering. Counter-steering - The right setup shows what couter-steering on the Porsche actually means: There is an imaginary third axle without steering in front of the rear axles. I assume the steered rear axles steer with less angle than the front axles. The Ackermann effect for the rear axles and front axles need to work in opposite directions. The Ackermann effect for the rear axles needs to be much stronger than for the front axles. Counter-steering requires more Ackermann effect for the front axles than in a situation without rear wheel steering. So, all together this means Ackermann steering makes a lot of sense for steered rear axles and the effect is desired to be much stronger for the rear axles than for the front axles. Secondly, Ackermann steering for the rear-axles should work in opposite directions for crab-steering and counter-steerinf. Thirdly, the ideal Ackermann effect for the front axles is slightly influenced by crab-steering and counter-steering: Crab-steering requires a little less Ackermann effect for the the front axles; counter-steering requires a little more Ackermann effect for the front axles. EDIT: Here's a better image.
  8. Didumos69
    Thanks! Hope you'll be able to build it soon! @PorkyMonster, @BusterHaus, thanks for the images guys! Really cool to see these different implementations. @PorkyMonster, do your adjustments to the brake calipers reveal that you're going to add different wheels? Btw, isn't the towball attached to the front calipers half a stud to high now? Keep those images coming !
  9. Didumos69
    Yea, that's normal. I always have one finger behind the dash or behind the rearviewmirror to be able to operate the shifter with another finger, without moving the entire vehicle. The return-to-center needs to be this tight, because the shift mechanism needs to overcome a hurdle to return. You should try without the return-to-center and you'll know what I mean. When all is finished the force to shift gears won't feel awkward given the rigidity of the entire model. Personally, I like to feel some resistance when I shift gears in a real car. In some cars shifting feels like stirring pudding and I hate that . Btw, I would also love to see pictures of half-way builds .
  10. Didumos69
    Thanks for your report and feedback @PorkyMonster! And great to know that you're building this! Could you post some photo's I wasn't too happy about the in-symmetrical setup here either. The axles bend a little when extended, but the bushes holding the silicon bands don't have much space and won't allow much bending. I added the return-to-center mechanism as a last feature and it was either this or no such mechanism at all. The latter would mean you have to return the shift lever yourself after every shift, which also gives a nice feel of the shifting mechanism itself. You could try that by removing the ends where the silicon bands attach to. I decided to put the return-to-center in, because there is only very little bending despite in-symmetrical setup and it works and that was quite a thrill by itself, as it all comes very precise. You mean one of the universal joints that connect to the steering wheel? Eventually you will probably be handling the car using the HoG and the steering wheel will follow your operations. The steering wheel will be hard to reach and the u-joints give the steering wheel more play compared to the HoG. Despite that, I do use the steering wheel quite a lot and sofar it did not pull the axle out of the 12 half-bevel gear. I will note the minor issues with the instructions. Especially step 100 is hard to see I think. Perhaps we can improve on this. But apart from these things, what is your impression, how does the whole shifing mechanism feel?
  11. Didumos69
    I think @Blakbird is taking a well-deserved break . When you're in doubt you could also choose to build the chassis only and then decide whether you want to build the body too. The chassis-only version of the instructions has its own entry on Rebrickable.
  12. Didumos69
    This is the kind of puzzling / tinkering I love to see! And it seems to progress quite well! I'm looking forward to seeing the next steps.
  13. Didumos69
    No matter what, this is going to look awesome, no doubt about it!
  14. Didumos69
    Thanks for your interest! What he said. To avoid the rub you would have to use the thinnest tires, which would bring the whole model 1 stud down, which would drop the point of having 2 stud suspension travel. The brake pads could be made smaller, but the inside diameter of the closest-sized rim will probably also interfere with the anti-roll links in turns. I know the Porsche tires and rims are expensive, but maybe worthwhile as a long-term investment. For future builds, I mean. What he said.
  15. Didumos69
    Everybody is entitled to his own opinion, but perhaps not a good idea to continue this discussion here, even more so since @agrof asked you to discuss this in the Purism topic.
  16. Didumos69
    I made some cutaways showing the complete chassis structure. Now you can see where the 22 dog-bones go .
  17. Didumos69
    I still have some doubt. When the chassis or model is finished, you probably want to feel the suspension by pressing the sides of the chassis, at least that is what I do to test the overall rigidity. That would require the side structures to be firmly embedded in the rest of the chassis. But I guess you will only know when you start building this beauty in real life. Btw, my experience is that it's better to start building early. LDD is a perfect tool to think ahead, but not to build an entire model. I've made that mistake once.
  18. Didumos69
    I use them a lot to square things. They are usually more easy to fit in than a complete 5×7 frame.
  19. Didumos69
    I like @Erik Leppen's approach better. It fits perfectly. I made a version that is form-locked. A bit overkill probably, but you could leave some parts out. Cool project !
  20. Didumos69
    Something like this:
  21. Didumos69
    The same with bent beams. Or secure the outer red assemblies vertically! like you did in the version with rubber bands and replace the rubber bands, and black parts between them, with bent liftarms with holes oriented like the rubber bands to secure the outer assemblies horizontally.
  22. Didumos69
    Can you express the offset in terms of studs, e.g. 0.3 studs?
  23. Didumos69
    Great! How can you live with only 4 dogbones !? It seems like mass-production has started ...
  24. Didumos69
    I thought it was flame orange too, but after seeing this image - taken by daylight - I am hopeful (source). If these small panels are yellow, I will definitely build a yellow version myself!
  25. Didumos69
    Would be cool, but also(11946) and(11947) are not available in yellow. You could also make it mainly black and work with yellow accents. I know the availability of black 3L pins is decreasing. This is why I only used black ones in the body (113) and blue ones for the chassis (141). This is what it would look like with all blue 3L pins (forgive me about the motorcycle tires). Especially in the bumpers black pins look much better:
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