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Didumos69

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by Didumos69

  1. Didumos69
    Haha, I meant: How far is your build, which step in the instructions? Goog luck with your new house!
  2. Didumos69
    A few maybe less pretentious cars that can serve as a great first coming-back-to-Technic experience: Nathanael Kuiper's Concept Car @Lipko's Simple Supercar
  3. Didumos69
    Thanks! The Porsche body is 75x31x16 studs, the Hammerhead body is 59x27x14 studs. Good luck! Too bad. How far are you?
  4. Didumos69
    Aha, yes, now I understand. I misread bullet b) and was not aware of the fact that the axle sticks beyond the H-frame pinhole also in neutral. This makes this mod perfect! Nice work @DayWalker!
  5. Didumos69
    From the images alone, I think you are correct that @DayWalker's solution meets all requirements you listed, so I would also conclude it gives the most realistic behavior. The only thing that would bother me is that you can still switch form 4th gear to neutral and from neutral to 4th gear. Not that I really care about infinite shifting and 4 reverse gears etc., but when switching to reverse should only be possible in the lowest gear, then why would switching from neutral to 4th gear be acceptable? But you are right that bypassing the gearbox - like @Appie did - by itself does not solve that issue either. I know, but after having experienced my modded unit, the stock unit will feel like you need to pull a manual railroad switch to change gears . I would like to hear your thoughts when you've built it.
  6. Didumos69
    Okay, here we go. The mechanism is essentially the same as in the stock build. The main difference is that the casing is stronger and the paddles return more easily: there is no need for change-over catches and rubber connectors to obtain a smooth return of the side knob gears. But there is another advantage; the paddles need not return as far as in the original unit. In fact, the paddles can be brought one stud closer to the steering wheel. That's a nice thing! And because of the more smooth return, the paddles could do with less silicon power, which made it possible to move the silicon bands (red ones in this case) inside the unit, without introducing additional bending. To summarize the advantages: Lighter operation Paddles 1 stud closer to the steering wheel Less travel required to shift (about 1.5 stud) Silicon bands inside the unit More realistically angled steering wheel Geared down steering with steering wheel More reliable shifting Here is the photo sequence and here is the LXF-file. EDIT: I just submitted this mod to Rebrickable. Important notes on installation: EDIT: This unit only works when combined with the 90 degree limiter incorporated in the H-frame just in front of the gearbox!!! You have to check the position of the 12t thin bevel gear in the steering line. It could be that you need to move it to the other side of the 20t gear in your build. To fit this in, I extended Hispabricks removable body mod in the dashboard area. In the image below you see the stock parts to the left and my mod to the right. When you install or remove the body, you need to pull the left paddle, otherwise the door hinges won't pass the LBG half bushes underneath the steering wheel. This is what the unit looks like from close-by:
  7. Didumos69
    Even better!
  8. Didumos69
    Thanks! Please read the building directions on the OP of this thread. The LXF-file only contains box 1 and 2. For the other boxes it only contains the differences between the stock and modified version. The idea is to build box 1 and 2 from the LXF and then build the rest of the model from stock instruction, whilst taking into account the differences in the LXF-file.
  9. Didumos69
    A bit late, but I finally figured out how to make renders with the Porsche hubs, rims and tires. I also inserted them a few posts back to compare them with the 42000 wheels.
  10. Didumos69
    I was referring to friction in the drive train. Thanks for your experiment! Your observations may have to do with the following effect: When a diff needs to 'work' (has one output axle rotating faster than the other) under torque, the bevel gears inside the diff will push each-other against the diff housing, which will in turn cause friction. This would mean the diff isn't really open.
  11. Didumos69
    Also a nice solution, but the only problem I have is that in your approach the steering wheel is tilted too much. In sports cars the steering wheel orientation is usually almost horizontal. Okay, I plan to do that next Wednesday.
  12. Didumos69
    @Kumbbl, @DayWalker, @jb70, I think something very interesing is going on here. I think @Kumbbl's build is the ultimate pimp-up version! It would be nice if somehow full instruction would be made available for this version too. Just a thought. The only thing I miss is my improved paddle shifter unit with shorter shifts and a more natural steering wheel position. For ease of building the white rubber bands could stay on top and replace the red rubber bands I used inside the unit. I could make a photo sequence if anyone would want to build that unit.
  13. Didumos69
    You could drop the return-to-center entirely. I actually prefer the bare feel of the manual return. I added the return-to-center, because I thought most people would expect such a feature.
  14. Didumos69
    So yes, the central diff compensates for the different gear ratios. No, an open differential is unbiased towards the output ratio. Sorry, still not convinced. I think the effect in your video has to do with friction. Indeed, but this requires a planetary differential with different ratios for the two output axles. A 50/50 torque distribution implies that when one axle halts and the other slips, the rotation speed of the slipping axle is mutiplied by 100/50 (=2). This is the case with a normal diff, but also the case in @PKW's setup. A 60/40 torque distribution would imply that when one axle halts and the other slips, the rotation speed of the slipping axle is either multiplied by 100/60 or by 100/40. This is also what I meant to say in an earlier reply. @PKW's setup will only will only lead to a lot of work for the diff.
  15. Didumos69
    I'm sorry, but I'm quite convinced that this does not give an uneven torque distribution. The central diff will completely undo the different gear ratios for the front output and the rear output, causing the whole setup to behave as a completely open diff. Torque vectoring withd differentials can only obtained with some kind of limited slip mechanism, which controls the amount of torque flowing from one output to the other output. .
  16. Didumos69
    Nice solution! It will affect rigidity a little, but not noticeably, I think. Also important is that the 3x5 beam attached to the 5L axle is not too loosely secured. That would affect the behavior of the shifting mechanism.
  17. Didumos69
    If you actually want to push things then wouldn't it be better to use linear actuators? https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=92693c01#T=C
  18. Didumos69
    Okay, because quite some people are interested in building this model with the 42000 rims and tires, here are some renders and here is the LXF-file with the adjusted brake calipers. But please bare in mind that the model was originally designed around the 42056 rims and tires. Here you see the changes to the brake calipers that I would suggest:
  19. Didumos69
    Thanks for the photo's! I have to admit the wheels/tires you used don't look that bad after all. There are no collisions with the bodywork in turns? The fact that I'm a bit reticent about using these wheels is probably because I did everything to work the body around the Porsche wheels. If I had worked my way around the 42000 rims/tires, the wheel wells would have looked much different. The hood, for instance, would have been much wider. Of course, your implementation of a 4WD steered model would be much different . I have come to agree with that . Thanks for the images! And thank you very much for putting this on public display! First row, that's great! Visitors might actually be able to shift gears .
  20. Didumos69
    I completely agree with @Kumbbl. The stock model is displayable, but when it comes to the features you will probably find out that it's better to not touch them. Also in my opinion the pimp-up-version @Kumbbl is referring to is the most easy way to fix all issues and to add some extras like HoG steering, better front suspension and a removable body. It even comes with full instructions.
  21. Didumos69
    It has everything a supercar needs. Suspension, steering, gearbox, mid-engine, HoG.and creative bodywork. Very nice end result! Even more so, given the short time span you needed from start to finisch.
  22. Didumos69
    Yea, these situations where you ought to take apart a whole model for a single pin can be tempting. While modding my 42056 I used all kinds of tools to span parts apart under a lot of stress, only to avoid disassembling half of the chassis.
  23. Didumos69
    Great! The color scheme is not bad at all, although the DBG 5.5 axles in the windows look messy. But I fear the 'old' wheels look quite ugly. The wheel wells are quite big already and now they really look as if something is missing. I say, buy the deep-offset -Porsche-rims and tires. You - as someone with a heart for realistic steering setups - won't regret the investment. Now that you finished your build, you should be able to lift the car safely without displacing parts: -By the roof -By the spoiler / trunk door -By the sides, with your fingers underneath the chassis and your thumb on the top-side of the door (the door should grab behind the 7L beam in the flank right behind the door). -By the nose, with your fingers underneath the chassis and your thumb right behind the black #2 connector above/behind the grill. Perhaps you could test this.
  24. Didumos69
    No, the central diff will compensate for the gearing up / down and effectively nothing will change. Only the diff will have a lot of unnecessary work to do. As far as I know, the only purely mechanical way to control torque split is inside the differential. Either with clutch-packs or with worm gears you can make an open diff close gradually once torque starts leaking to one output axle. These can be tweaked to have one output axle close (force it to rotate along with the diff-house) sooner (with less leakage) than the other. That way you can obtain an uneven torque split, like for instance 60%/40%.
  25. Didumos69
    Thanks! I'd love to see those pictures! The expo is VILLABÉ 2017, right? Very cool that you're going to show it there!
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