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Didumos69

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by Didumos69

  1. To add to that: What I have learned from this, is that it is probably better to start with the instructions only after the model is finished, especially when the designer is not making the instructions himself. Or, to put it differently, it is probably better to stop adding features to the model once you decided to work out the instructions. Hearing this form someone who has built so many Technic supercars, means a lot to me. I'm very happy you wanted to build it and got involved! Good to know! I hope you guys will be able to build it soon. I just discovered that the 42056 Porsche set covers 53.7% of the parts of this build, which is more than I expected. @zux, I tried to take your experience with torsion bars into account as good as possible. I only used torsion bars in the back and made sure they are not stressed much under the vehicle own weight. Thanks again for sharing your experience.
  2. I asked @Milan to merge the two topics, which he did. It was a bad idea to have separate WIP and MOC topics.
  3. Thanks! The chassis dimensions are quite common I think. It's the same as @Paul Boratko's Scorpion. There are indeed two linear clutches, one at each end of the central differential. They serve to protect all gears in case the gearbox halts while pushing the car around, but the gearbox doesn't halt, so it's a bit superfluous. It's more of a good practice to incorporate such a protection.
  4. Hello Milan,

    Would it be an option to merge my two Rugged supercar topics. It was a bad and confusing idea to start a separate thread for the MOC.

    These two topics:

    I hope you can do this. Thanks!

    Diederik

  5. I did something similar for my rugged supercar. Why not tilt the spring and small cylinder more inwards? That would give more space for the steering tie rods and the spring and cylinder wouldn't stick out as much. Just a thought.
  6. Instructions are available on Rebrickable. There is a full-featured version called 'Rugged supercar' and a chassis-only version called 'Flat AWD chassis'. The chassis-only version confines itself to part 1 of the instructions of the full-featured version. Special thanks to @Blakbird and @BusterHaus - with Blakbird being the driving force - for taking on the task of making these beautiful instructions! Making instructions for a build like this is a tremendous amount of work. Even more so, given the fact that I have been very demanding in sticking to my original design. - 32005a (Link 1 x 6 without Stoppers) - used for the anti-roll bars and steering tie rods - is preferred over 32005b (Link 1 x 6 with Stoppers), because each link has tow-balls inserted from both sides. 32005b can be used too, but in that case each link will have one tow-ball that needs quite some force to insert. - 32056 (Liftarm 3 x 3 L-Shape Thin) - used for the door locks - is preferred over 32249 (Liftarm 3 x 3 L-Shape with Quarter Ellipse Thin). 32249 can be used too, but makes it more likely to accidentally lock the door while it's open, which is not a big deal of course. - 76138 (Shock Absorber 6.5L with Soft Spring) - used for the door locks - should be soft springs. They are quite rare in red, but you could also use two LBG soft springs. - 85543 (Rubber Belt Small (Round Cross Section) - used for the 90 degree limiter and the return-to-center of the gear shifter - should be relatively new, say max 2 years. Not that they wear out quickly, but the older ones are slightly less tight. Images of the full-featured version can be found here. Images of the chassis-only version can be found here. LXF-file of the full-featured version (with placeholders for the Porsche wheel hubs!) can be found here. LXF-file of the chassis-only version (with placeholders for the Porsche wheel hubs!) can be found here. See the entry on The LEGO Car Blog!
  7. Here are the front and rear sections of my 4wd rugged supercar: Front suspension (LXF-file with placeholders for the Porsche wheel hubs) - Double wishbone suspension - Anti-roll bar - Ackermann steering - Gear-rack sliders - HoG steering - 2 studs suspension travel - 2 studs ground clearance Rear suspension (LXF-file) - Double wishbone suspension - Anti-roll bar - 2 studs suspension travel - 2 studs ground clearance
  8. Yea, but in this case the radius is already somewhat limited because of the limited angle of the CV-joints connected to the wheel hubs.
  9. Very interesting project! I will be following this closely too. Doesn't the steering tie rod collide with the black vertical arm connecting the suspension arms in turns?
  10. Deal! Thanks! I'd say, build it and let us know your thoughts!
  11. I have been commenting critically on the beam over flex axles too, I think on several occasions. On the one hand I think it's perfectly valid to have some critiques, especially when you hope and know the builder - in this case @Lox Lego - will probably be capable of coming up with something as good without using this technique. You just wish someone would move into a certain direction. But then again, I think the point has been made. And like others, I think every designer should follow his own path. It's actually a good thing that every builder has his own signature. It gives us diversity. I will rest my beams over flex axles case and I'm already excited to see your future builds. With or without beams over flex axles . Keep up the good work !
  12. From what I see this remains to be a very promising build . And I love the front axles . A few shots that show the entire car would be nice. Are you planning on updating the LXF-file too?
  13. Nice idea, but the virtual pivot is not better than the pivot of a usual double suspension-arm setup. The shot from above shows the pivot point is still at the inner side of the wheel, whereas the purpose of virtual pivot steering is to move the virtual steering axis towards, or even beyond, the center of the wheel.
  14. Great looking model! But I'm not as thrilled as I was with your Lykan. This time I think the beams over flex axles don't do justice to the model. Like @Jeroen Ottens already pointed out; this way the fenders don't flow into the rest of the body as they do on the original car. I'm not a fan of beams over flex axles in general, but when there is no obvious alternative to get the right shape, I can appreciate them nevertheless. But in this case I think there would have been alternatives.
  15. @tomek9210 did a double wisbone front axles with virtual pivot point: @nicjasno too: But I'm still curious what you have come up with.
  16. Too bad. If it's Paul's, I hope it will end up in his next build.
  17. 4 speed 4wd gearbox with lockable diff designer: Attika motorized or manual: manual sequential or direct: direct special features: 4wd with lockable central diff number of gears: 4-speed 4 Speed 4WD Sequential Gearbox designer: Attika motorized or manual: manual, can be motorized sequential or direct: sequential special features: 4wd with central diff number of gears: 4-speed Smallest 4 speed 4wd gearbox? designer: Attika motorized or manual: manual sequential or direct: direct special features: 4wd with central diff, the gear layout is the non-sequential counterpart of @Didumos69's Sequential AWD 4-speed gearbox number of gears: 4-speed
  18. Thanks, I was about to ask the same thing. Some info on designer, motorized or manual, sequential or direct, special features like paddle shifters and number of gears, e.g. 5+R, would be nice. This will also help me in making an index in the OP. Or even better, if it can not be classified along these lines from the entry here, I will not add it to the index. Sometime? I know at least two gearboxes from your hand. I can add them if you wish?
  19. Sequential AWD 4-speed gearbox with V8 fake engine designer: Didumos69 motorized or manual: manual sequential or direct: sequential special features: 4wd with central diff, one-finger shifter, incl. V8 fake engine, the gear layout is the sequential counterpart of @Attika's Smallest 4 speed 4wd gearbox? number of gears: 4-speed This gearbox is an excerpt from my rugged supercar project. The mid-console has an important role in the overall stiffness of that model. It had to be narrow as well. If you build (have built) it, you will notice it has very little torsional flex. I wanted a 4-speed sequential gearbox covering a wide range of ratios. So not something like 1:2.5 upto 1:1, but rather something like 1:3:5 upto 1:0.8. Another requirement I had, was that I didn't want red clutch gears to transfer drive on axles rotating at different RPM. This is a common practice, but from modding the Porsche I know it induces a lot of friction on the axles involved. When not engaged, red clutch gears better only make dummy rotations and not transfer drive. And finally, all had to fit underneath the engine; I didn't want the gearbox to be routed through the entire chassis. Instructions available on Rebrickable.com.
  20. This is an attempt to start collecting gearbox designs in a single thread. To get started, feel free to add existing gearboxes, but please always add a reference to the original designer. Also be sure to add some information on designer motorized or manual sequential or direct special features like paddle shifters and number of gears, e.g. 5+R. That will also help me in making an index in the OP. Or even better, if it can not be classified along these lines from the entry here, I will not add it to the index. Thanks!
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