Jump to content

Didumos69

Eurobricks Dukes
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,045

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Didumos69

  1. Didumos69
    Sorry, didn't see the last few posts.
  2. Didumos69
    Cool! Now I would like to see it work.
  3. Didumos69
    The more I think about it, the more I tend to agree with your line of thinking. The Creator-like models I showed don't belong here. The mental check if it's actually LEGO seems like a good way to draw the line, imo.
  4. Didumos69
    I think it is enough for a scale model to be generally perceived as 'true to scale'. It should resemble something we can imagine to be a real object, but it need not necessarily be a copy of a real life object. What about a highly detailed motorcycle that we all perceive as real, but doesn't resemble anything real. Such models should not be excluded. Function are nice to haves and size should not matter at all imo. Big will mostly be more accurate, but small is sometimes more clever. The Porsches shown are enough 'true to scale' to me, they are instantly recognizable, have no holes, etc. So I'd say they belong in the scale model forum. I would even think more cartoonish models should be allowed too, as long as they are instantly recognizable as something we can imagine to stumble upon in real life. No need to have all the details in place, no need to ressemble a real object. But I can imagine others would exclude this category. EDIT: Not sure about this category myself actually. I guess the 'Creator'-style models do not belong in this forum, they would blur the theme too much.
  5. Didumos69
    @efferman, I just saw your mods tot his model. I love your improvements to the rear section of the chassis, especially the strengthened frame !
  6. Didumos69
    I just scanned through these excellent instructions and I'm once again impressed by the quality of this build. I love the rear axles with the integrated gearbox and flat 6 engine. The gearbox - complete with shifter - is so advanced yet compact and elegant. Neither the shifter, nor the gear arrangement spreads throughout the entire rear section of the chassis, as we see in some other MOCs. A major achievement imo. Also the bodywork breathes just the right amount of 'character' without being too detailed or overemphasized. My hat goes off for this excellent work!
  7. Didumos69
    Of course your line of thinking makes sense, but I think it all depends on what you regard as 'the hood' and how strict you want to be. I think the flex axles just inside the wheel archs draw the outlines of the hood and they incline more than one stud. Maybe the panels more to the middle sit a little too deep, but they are more inclined than some pictures suggest. But let's agree to disagree and give the floor back to the designer.
  8. Didumos69
    One stud inclination is substantial for such a flat model. Besides that, the hood is not only defined by the panels, but also by the flex axles drawing its outer lines. Actually, most of the perceived shape relies on the lines drawn by flex axles, which is a great accomplishment in itself in my opinion (even though I don't like modeling with flex axles myself).
  9. Didumos69
    I'm not a fan of flex axles, but I like the open style and it's instantly recognizable! Excellent job!
  10. Didumos69
    Thanks for the offer! I was thinking of a single page plaque (A4). I'll work something out. Yes, there is. In the left version the tow ball sticks out 1/5th of a stud more, which adds to the straight alignment of the shifting link (seen from above). The angle made by the shifting link (seen from above) affects how deep the driving rings insert into the clutch gears. As the angle grows, the rear clutch gears are inserted deeper and the front clutch gears are inserted less deep, which could easily trouble another optimization: The length of the change-over catches on the other end of the shifting links has been optimized to avoid double engaged gears and to avoid clutch gears from getting squeezed against liftarms. They have been lengthened by approximately half a stud. However, longer catches also cause the driving rings to insert less deep into the clutch gears. If the angle made by the shifting link (seen from above) would unbalance the insertion depth over the front and rear clutch gears too much, the front clutch gears might not be inserted deep enough and the rear clutch gears might get squeezed after all. So this is why the straight alignment of the shifting link (seen from above) is important. Nevertheless, it might still work with the right version. It's a matter of optimization. In an early version of the chassis I used your right version and lengthened the catches even more than in the final model. You can see the inclination of the links verywell in this picture: However, it was @Meatman who noticed the front clutch gears were only engaged halfway: So:
  11. Didumos69
    Great idea! If you keep the tilting axis at the level of the wheel axis, there would be no need to actively flip the cabin; you could let gravity do it's work by keeping the center of gravity below the tilting axis. It could also give the driver some comfort in turns if the cabin tilts due to inertia (passive tilting). One problem I forsee: The driver should let go the steering wheel when the car rolls over, otherwise rolling over will effect the steering angle substantially...
  12. Didumos69
    So it won't be that easy. I mean the in the hood close to the dashboard that you painted black. If I recall correctly @PorkyMonster mixed white and LBG parts to get a white version, but a true black and white version would of course be cooler.
  13. Didumos69
    Cool! Of course that's okay with me. Please share pictures when it's finished (or while building). I will. Nice. You might also consider replacing some parts with LBG parts, for instance in the area where the hood connects to the left and right flanks. In your screenshot the hood seems a little disconnected from the rest of the body. Most parts are available for a blue version. Only the bigger panels in the mid-section of the hood and for the rear lights need to be replaced with a different color. Black could be an option:
  14. Didumos69
    Great video and awesome crane! I did something not quite as big to celebrate the 40th anniversary:
  15. Didumos69
    I would like to have a real 1:1 scale version for my family! Very impressive build.
  16. Didumos69
    Which is an extraordinary achievement given the fact that it did not visually compromise the mechanical features and overall looks. It's a pitty that structural coherence cannot be read from images alone. You have to feel it. This would make a very good learning experience for other builders. Do you plan to offer instructions?
  17. Didumos69
    This is such a cool project ! I love how the cabin narrows towards the rear end, something that can be seen very well in the shots taken from above. The overall shaping is very realistic, as well as the mechanical features.
  18. Didumos69
    Is there anyone hosting a stand at LEGO World 2017 who would be willing to display my rugged supercar (my personal build)? It would be great if it could be displayed there somehow. I will take care of transport and a description-sheet myself. Please PM me if you could help me out. Thanks! Btw, I made a collection of POVRAY renders. I'm slowly getting the hang of it.
  19. Didumos69
    Nice to see how this is evolving into your very own design ! The only module I still recognize, is my improved paddle shifter unit. Good luck getting the bodywork together!
  20. Didumos69
    You should at least secure (form-lock) the red assembly on top to the present frames with a vertically oriented beam or frame. This way the springs are likely to push that assembly off of the pins it is connected to.
  21. Didumos69
    I once sturdified the LEGO 94.8 x 44 R Balloon tires (54120) by filling them with LEGO 94.2mm D. x 22mm Motorcycle Racing Tread tires (88516). After playing around with them on a flat surface for a while I noticed they ride a lot lighter too, with far less resistance. I can imagine this could also be of use for RC trial trucks to avoid these tires from severe misshaping under heavy circumstances, causing them to run off the rims completely. This solution also prevents the rim from slipping inside the tire, something that has actually been reported for this tire. The motor tire expands the balloon tire slightly - diameter increases by approx. 3mm - which causes the sides of the tire to be pulled inwards slightly. This in turn causes the edges of the tire to induce more grip on the edges of the rim.
  22. Didumos69
    I think this is a very good idea. You are in fact 'form-locking' the CV-joints, which is a good practice in general to make sure parts don't get displaced. Btw, your drive axles running to the front and rear diffs (green encircled) are completely covered by beams, bushes and connectors. It's not the cause of the grinding diffs of course, but it is likely that the bushes and connectors rubbing against the supporting beams introduce unnecessary friction. My experience is that it's better to leave axles uncovered if covering doesn't really add anything. I would get rid of the two bushes and the red cross block (red encircled) in your case.
  23. Didumos69
    Thanks @LvdH!
  24. Didumos69
    My experience is that when you make photos with too much distance and need to zoom in (or crop later on) to make the car fit the image properly, you loose a lot of perspective (depth) in your photos. When you would make a photo of a real car you usually don't take more distance than the length of the car you're capturing. With LEGO builds this would mean you need to get really close to the model to get the same perspective. Great looking build btw !
  25. Didumos69
    I'm starting to like them too. I just love the way the modules of @Paul Boratko's Outlaw look with the red and yellow axles. I think it's because they make it more easy to distinguish parts, which is very convenient for perceiving technical modules. They shouldn't stick out too much after bodywork is added, but as part of the inner assemblies they are very okay, imo.
×
×
  • Create New...