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Didumos69

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by Didumos69

  1. Didumos69
    There will be large shocks on top of the upper wishbone, push-rod style. I'm thinking of pairing hard (yellow) and soft (grey) shocks for each wheel. Btw, the wishbones of the front suspension are 11L long! It looks large, but the track width is only one stud wider than agrof's buggy. This is due to the custom wheel hubs, which bring the wheels half a stud more outwards. Also the length is one stud larger than agrof's buggy. Thanks @Lox Lego! It won't shape up as fast as your models, but I hope the final result will please you. @agrof, that Ultra4 buggy is indeed a good match and looking very cool. Blue with black seems to be the way to go . As for the tires; I think you're right, I might even turn to third party tires. I found another image of the same buggy: There is still one problem I need to solve in the frontaxles. It appears servo motors rotate only 90 degrees, clockwise and counterclockwise. That would give me 1L gear rack travel in each direction, which is not enough. So I will probably have to use a 20t gear to drive the gear rack instead of a 12t gear, but that is not very convenient. Either the gear rack or the gear needs to move half a stud.
  2. Didumos69
    Hi, As a winter project I'm working on a 4WD RC buggy. It will be heavily inspired by @agrof's Class 1 Ultimate Buggy, for I very much like the behaviour and the looks of that model. With this model I will also deliver to my promise to @DugaldIC to make an RC model. I was planning on finishing this MOC without a WIP topic, but I simply can't work without the feedback . It will have 4 L-motors and 1 servo motor. No buggy motors, for I will be using current-date parts only. Control will be done with SBrick. Sofar I have been working on the axles. The rear axles are very much inspired by agrof's model, but this time everything relies on perfect fits. They rely on the Pythagorean triple (5,12,13). The front axles are my very own addition to this model: 2 L-motors are integrated in the double-wishbone setup. Making everything rely on perfect fits, is one of my main challenges. The second challenge is to make everything relevant form-locked. And of course the model needs to perform. All wheel hubs are turn-table/u-joint based: Sofar I have only been designing digitally, but I did check the most essential constructions in real life already. I will show progress when ever I have something to show. If you have any comments, feel free to reply. I'm new to motorized building so I can use some feedback.
  3. Didumos69
    I don't know what you mean with large, but if it's the wheel size, you can do more or less the same for the 56908 wheels. With crossblocks. The only drawback compared to the bigger version is that there are two 3L axle running through the turn-table pin-holes, which introduces a little slack, but still much less than the LEGO wheel hubs:
  4. Didumos69
    I've seen examples where the wheel hub with two pin holes - normally used for rear axles - is used for front axles, for instance in Nathanael Kuiper's Predator. The pivot depends on how you use it. Indeed. And this arrangement sits slightly against the inside of the wheel, giving the whole setup stability without keeping the 3L pins from 'clicking' into the wheel. The pivot is indeed a little less than half a stud worse compared to the LEGO wheel hub.
  5. Didumos69
    Modern LEGO wheel hubs are known to suffer from a lot of slack. Other drawbacks are that you can only use them with CVT joints - not with the stronger and more angleable U-joints - and the section inbetween the pin holes of the hub is wider than 1 stud. While playing with one of them I noticed that part of the slack is because the DBG pins don't sit very tight in the wheel's pin holes. It helps a little if you have an axle running through the wheel which extends into the DBG-part of the hub. Now I know @nicjasno sells modified wheel hubs based on small turn tables, which have much less slack than the original wheel hubs. But than you still can only use them with the weak CVT joints. And you have a modified part. So I looked into using a turntable as wheel hub for the 15038 wheel (with 6 pinholes) without modifying it and it gives quite a good result. Better than the LEGO wheel hub: The turn table is attached to the wheel with 2 3L pins. The assembly inside the wheel makes sure the turn table's pinholes are attached to a pin and not to an axle (which would give slack) and sits tight against the inside of the wheel to give stability. Finally an extra belt wheel is attached to the wheel to give even more stability to the 2 3L pins that connect the assembly to the wheel.
  6. Didumos69
    Great to see this come to completion! Making instructions for such a complex build is a tremendous amount of work. I'm not going to build this, but I'm certainly going to study the instructions to learn from. Thanks!
  7. Didumos69
    I just wanted to add that my daughter (6) had a lot of fun watching all entry videos. She is building great fantasy models ever since. This proud father wanted to share at least one of them:
  8. Didumos69
    I just noticed the red dot in the (5,12,13)-triple below, is also 'in-grid'. The 1L red lines make a right angle with the legs of the triangle. Btw, the angle made by the red lines is practically equal to the angle made by a #3 connector: 157.5 degrees (in this triangle it is 157.38 degrees to be precise). See also the 'almost perfect fit thread'.
  9. Didumos69
    Great little vehicle! And the video is excellent too. I suppose you can narrow the front axles by two studs like this:
  10. Didumos69
    Others have said it already. This model breathes the true Technic spirit. Very nice work! Thanks for frontpaging this @Jim .
  11. Didumos69
    LOL. Without this interest there would be no cars, trains, toys, money... ...Man thinks about little bit of baby girls and a baby boys Man make them happy Cos man make them toys And after man make everything Everything he can You know that man makes money To buy from other man...
  12. Didumos69
    Aha, I see. I'm looking forward to it! @kbalage Btw, I would be very interested in knowing whether this would add to the performance of your steroids version? I know it runs much lighter for manual models. Besides making the tire harder, this also gives the tire more grip on it's rim, which prevents the rim from slipping inside it's tire. I know you have 4 of those motorcycle tires .
  13. Didumos69
    The video says something like "check back next week". What's next?
  14. Didumos69
    What a great evolution of this already great car! Funny thing is that I just started building the original in LDD to learn about motorized building. This will make it even more valuable as study material. Thank you so much!
  15. Didumos69
    That was the one I was referring to in the OP. The problem with Sheepo's version is that it allows only very little disalignment of the input and output axles. That's what I wanted to solve.
  16. Didumos69
    I don't intend to but who knows...
  17. Didumos69
    Maybe a non-motorized version, but Im not sure yet. Main goal is to have an RC version.
  18. Didumos69
    Thanks! Glad to hear you're still working on it. I'm thinking of using this to connect the wheels to a fake engine. Motorized drive will be routed separately. Not a WIP-topic this time. If I can keep my mouth shot I will present what I'm working on after I'm done. Building will probably take all winter.
  19. Didumos69
    I thought this would be worth sharing. For the suspension of an RC model I'm working on (yes, I will keep my promise @DugaldIC), I want to have a telescopic transmission shaft that can take quite some vertical travel while spanning a constant distance of 6L, the length of a non-telescopic arrangement with two u-joint. I know about Sheepo's design, but that one can only take little vertical travel before the slider axles collide with the u-joints. So I've been playing with this a little and found an arrangement that works very well. It can take quite some torque actually, even though I'm not planning to use it for transferring motorized drive. This will only connect the wheels to a fake engine.
  20. Didumos69
    Yes, but the catches iterate through 4 positions each, which is unusual. I think @TechnicSummse is right with his assumption they have two middle positions. I suppose they run freely in the middle two positions, otherwise they would obstruct the engaged gear. The video also shows there is always exactly one catch in extreme left or extreme right position. Also, it seems that the inclination of the catches in extreme position is not much; the driving rings won't insert the clutch gears very deep. This has probably been done to make sure the middle positions don't make the driving ring engage.
  21. Didumos69
    Very clean build sofar . Looking forward to seeing more!
  22. Didumos69
    You can read from the video how the stepper works, but I don't know how the 60-degree steps are translated into gear shifts either. I remember asking when @Zero (Zblj) posted about this,.but that was just before his break from LEGO.
  23. Didumos69
    This one?
  24. Didumos69
    Thanks! I don't feel underappreciated btw. I've had great fun building my fire ant and was happy with the response I got. The car was not the best fit for this contest.
  25. Didumos69
    Congrats to @Leonard Goldstein,.a deserved win imo . Thanks to everybody for this fun contest. I'm happy with my top 10 ranking. (Of course not,. Truth is I feel like Max Verstappen, the fastest in the race but overruled by voting .)
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