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Didumos69

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by Didumos69

  1. Some people liked the clock house concept and some didn't. I have given this some extra thought, but let me first re-include the concept image from the previous page so everybody knows what we're talking about. I decided to hold on to this concept. It may give the impression that I'm finishing this clock too easily, but I have some good reasons for this concept: - I wanted something quite open, so you can look inside. - I needed something which encloses the ugly wheel holding the hands. - I needed something with big holes for the pendulum and the hands assembly to stick through. - I wanted something simple which doesn't take the attention away from the essential elements: the hands and the pendulum. - I wanted something that breathes uniformnes. I think the similarly shaped house and pendulum weight add to uniformnes. I personally like these kind of simplistic designs. I know this might disappoint some of you, but this is a matter of taste and I can't please everybody. I think you'll be surprised when you see the final result hanging on a wall.
  2. Okay, thanks for your opinion You are right of course, just like with cars I really have to push myself to finish it off with appealing bodywork. I'll see what I can do.
  3. Very nice! The convertible mechanism is excellent, better than your previous convertible, in which I saw quite some stress in the entire car when it converted. This time it's perfect. And it looks gorgeous!
  4. Wow, this is my favorite vehicle entry sofar! It looks fantastic!
  5. Thanks! Sorry, but that's not my cup of tea. I prefer the minimalist-capture-the-essential-lines-and-mechanisms approach. The clock is also not true to real time, it has it's own time system.
  6. I was thinking of doing something like this for the clock house and something similar, but smaller, for the pendulum weight.
  7. Thanks! The pendulum is more stiff this way, but I will make the pendulum weight and the clock itself more elegant. Thanks! Thanks! I added counter weights for the minute and second hands, which was also suggested by @Davidz90. It works better now. Thanks! Yeah I have the association with a prop plane too. I hope the clock house will eventually take us away from that impression. Update I balanced the minute and second hands completely and I made the hour hand an axle too (as was suggested by @ThatOneBuilder). The autonomy now extends to over 15 minutes. I have to admit though that the last 3 minutes seem like a real struggle.
  8. Thanks! Of course I hope I will do fine in the competition, but I don't count on anything. Thanks! I could do the hour hand like this using the newpart. If I also replace the dbg 5l liftarm in the hands section with 2 thin ones, I can have one on each side of the 24t gears. That will secure things better.
  9. Here's a longer video. They say watching a clock tick can be very meditative , so sit down and relax...
  10. In the process of designing the clocks bodywork I was troubled by the length of the whole thing. I like symmetry, which is why the pullback motor was sitting in the tail of the clock, but I figured I could also use two pullback motors along the sides of the main structure. That would make the whole thing more boxy and give me more power at the same time. So I bought two small pullback sets and rebuild the whole thing once again, and it turns out to be the best decision of this build! Using two motors allowed me to revert to the 18:1 gearing and I now have an autonomy of 15 minutes!!! In the process of revising I also made sure the pendulum has even less friction; it no longer rubs against the frame supporting it. Here's a short video showing the setup with two pullback motors.
  11. Thanks @Ludo Visser, too bad you had to cancel. Also with the new pullback motor the power slowly declines. With low torque pendulum and high torque pendulum this led to declining clock speed as well. Only with medium torque it runs steady untill it stops. About the ratchet, I use the diff housing as input, one output for the ratchet and one output for the escapement. Also in my case winding up does not effect the hands, only torque to keep the clock going, drops temporarily. I used the diff this way so it actually gears up the input with a 2:1 ratio when the ratchet locks. My escapement only works one way, so during wind-up the ratchet engages.
  12. I tried this, but the whole system gets to sensitive to the variation in torque and small variations in friction. It does not give a nice constant ticking and it halts every now and then. It was worth the effort though, at least now I know.
  13. Thanks @Davidz90! I will retry the smaller amplitude with less torque.
  14. Can you have two entries? I guess not, but want to be sure.
  15. Aha. You're right the inclined panels make the long side of a 5, 11, 12 triangle. For a perfect right triangle the long side should be 12.083. Not very elegant, but LDD won't have a problem with it, which is quite a good indicator whether something fits in real life without causing stress.
  16. You mean the panels in the roof? They don't. The panels are 11 stud long (10 center-to-center). The complete assembly with the two inclined panels is attached to only two pins. Very clumsy imo.
  17. I installed the hands and that meant I had to fine-tune pendulum length / weight and gear ratios all over again. Even though I suspect my pullback motor to be damaged I'm actually quite content with the result. I will be buying a new motor, but I don't expect big improvements on the current setup. The fictitious LEGO time system of this clock has 4 LEGO hours in a LEGO day (2 in a clock cycle), 5 LEGO minutes in a LEGO hour and 30 LEGO seconds in a LEGO minute, with every tick being a LEGO second . Below you see the gearing setup I found to be optimal. The output of the pullback motor is geared up 10:1 for the escapement (it was 18:1 in my optimal setup without hands). To maintain an acceptable autonomy interval, I had to extend the pendulum to slow things down to compensate for the reduced gear ratio. The 10:1 escapement axle is geared down 1:6 towards the hands, which gives an overall pullback-hands ratio of 5:3. I tried extending the dark tan axle coming from underneath the pullback motor for the hands, because it has the same gear ratio as the yellow axle. However, I ran into two problems: 1). The hands would rotate counterclockwise during wind-up and 2). I couldn't route the axle through the pendulum. So I decided to us a 8t-48t gear combination in front of the pendulum instead. The hands axle still extends through the pendulum, but one stud higher and only to support it properly. Some observations to illustrate how sensitive the whole system is: With my original pullback-escapement ratio of 18:1 and an overall pullback-hands ratio of 3:1, the system slows down severely when the second hand and minute hand are both moving upwards. With a slightly different escapement which would reduce the pendulum amplitude by roughly 50%, the pendulum turns into a vibrating string and looses it's function as pendulum. With a pendulum that is 8 studs shorter, the autonomy decreases from 9 minutes to 6 minutes. Here's a video of the current state. Sorry for the bad quality, it was a little too dark. Next step will be to add some sort of housing. With the longer pendulum I diverted from the idea of having a standing clock. It will be hanging on a wall instead.
  18. Okay thanks. I will probably buy a small set with a new one. I borrowed this one from my son and he is not going to like the issues it's having now.
  19. I have a single copy of the latest version pullback motor. I'm using it for my TC13 entry, but since today it seems to behave differently. When I wind-up the motor it sometimes gives a lot of friction and it seems to give less power when it unwinds. I did over-wind-up a few times (it clicks unhappily when this happens) and I'm curious whether this could have do everything harm. So my question is, is this common behavior for a broken pullback motor, or not?
  20. A more simple way would be to connect the pullback output to an axle-pin with friction ridges, which is inserted into a secured pinhole.
  21. This is how it should be going to work. I had to remove the pendulum temporarily, because I need to route the axle to which the hands are attached through the pendulum. I already have an idea to achieve this. Because the pendulum has been removed it does not have constant speed now. And it runs much faster now. Eventually it will be running about 10 times slower.
  22. Very original! I like it. You could use some sort of clock escapement to slow it down.
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