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Didumos69

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by Didumos69

  1. The rear suspension will only travel for about 1.7 studs, so most of the travel will come from the pendular front axles. In the front axles the springs will give about 2.5 studs travel. The pendular setup adds to that of course.
  2. That's a very elegant way to bypass the center-diff-torque issue. Great to see you back!
  3. Thanks for the suggestion! I will keep it in the back of my mind when I get to it. I'm sorry, but I'm having a short break from LEGOs, but I can't imaging not coming back.
  4. Going by the renders of the chassis I strongly advice you to use more lengthwise beams running through the chassis. Not only at the bottom but also higher up. And make a strong column running in-between the seats. If you don't do that, then I expect a lot of bending under the cars own weight with possibly squeezed frictioned gears as a result.
  5. I know @Paul Boratko's 5+R AWD transmission. I modified it to include a center diff lock in this model. It surely doesn't slip, but it's not free of friction.
  6. I'm glad you see the added value. It's especially usefull for display models .
  7. Hi, In RC builds with standard LEGO wheel hubs, I often experience wheels detaching from the hubs in fast turns, especially when it concerns steered and driven wheels. After some trial and error I found a way to form-lock Porsche rims to the standard LEGO hub, with links running through the rims, and I thought this could be of use for others too. You probably know the Porsche rims have a very deep offset and with solution I sacrificed 1 stud offset for a form-locked connection between rim and hub. It can be used for steered setups as well as for non-steered setups. This LXF-file shows how.
  8. Good question. When I carry the model around, I usually grab it by the side to lift it. When I do that, I somehow always put my thumb behind this 5L liftarm in the side (the lumbar support) of the seat, which would then easily detach. I reckoned others would have the same issue, so I added these blue pins just to prevent the lumbar supports from coming loose.
  9. Cool concept! It rides pretty fast too. Well done!
  10. Cool color scheme! Very nice to see how you followed the original exactly, without compromises . And I'm happy to see someone implementing the new rims .
  11. Seen from above the curves are indeed very well done. Also seen from the side there is the wave running from front to back. I guess my main issue is that when I think of Huayra, I think of a car with its cabin much to the front, a low nose and a massive section behind the cabin, which breathes power. That's what I miss in your replica. Somehow my first judgement of a car from your hands focusses on its looks. I had high expectations and was a little disappointed. However the model is still very impressive. I love the suspension and the details around the engine. The suspension is not only very original, but it also matches the real car. And what you're saying about the roof adding to overall stiffness is right up my alley. It's just not something I expected here. So, sorry for my negative first response. This model is a great achievement and you're very generous to have put so much effort in a charity initiative. I hope the auction is going to be a great success!
  12. I let this sink in for a day. The functions are great, but I really can't get excited about the looks. There are a few details that remind me of a Huayra, like the headlights, the tail lights and the exhausts, but when I look at the whole concept, it's essential lines, I don't recognize the Huayra in it. Apart from that, when this would have been a free style model, to me the model would appear quite ugly actually. Things that hit my eyes almost instantly: there is nothing resembling the wind screen. The A-pillars, which are too steep in themselves, suggest a very steep and flat wind screen. The roof is flat and almost seems to lean forward, where it should lean backward. The cabin profile, seen from the front, is too blocky. The seats are too small. The hood rises too high, before it drops towards the wind screen and the hood is also too high compared to the rear fenders / rear section. The side section behind the cabin is massive in the original and imo one of the Huayra's distinguishing aspects and I miss that in this replica. To me the whole thing looks messy, especially when I compare this to other models from your hand, like the Astin Martin DB9 Volante or the Ferrari 458 Spider. In my perception this is definitely not your best work. Still appreciate this great initiative and I hope the auction will be a great success!
  13. I checked this morning and I don't feel any vibration in the XL motors, not in any gear. I pressed my nail against the 24 gears on the output of the motors quite hard to disturb any vibration, but the noise was still there. The noise comes from the gearboxes, I'm quite sure about that now, but the resonance could of course still come from the motors. Thanks! The only 24t gears are directly attached to the motor outputs and they don't rub anything, also not under high torque. At least that's what I can see. The only parts they could collide with are two bushes attached to adjacent axles. The differentials in the gearbox also have a 24t side but these have plenty of space around them. I checked this, but both drive trains produce the same sound. The effect is slightly stronger in the right drive train. There is one section in the gearbox I suspect most, but I can't reach the gears. I checked all other gears by pushing a nail against them so any resonance in that gear should at least be reduced, without any result. The gears I couldn't check are idle in 4th gear and in 4th gear they spin 9 times the XL motor output speed, which is 3 times the transmission output.
  14. But the effect also hits in without the wheels touching the ground. Also, due to this effect the model actually goes faster in 3rd gear without this effect. If you are are right I would expect the effect also in 3rd gear. I don't use multiple u-joints and the bracing is very solid everywhere. But maybe I made an error while building. If I don't find the issue, I will take it apart and rebuild it. But that would mean about 6 to 8 hours of work. This makes sense and I'm familiar with resonance and the natural frequency or eigen frequency of structures. This is also why soldiers don't march on bridges. I should be able to check whether the motors have some kind of vibration when the effect hits in. Thank you all for thinking with me.
  15. Good news on the stepper. After a lot of trial and error I finally got the stepper working through all gears at full speed. I tried the smaller stepper, bit it was too sensitive to small changes. The bigger stepper simply never fails as long as it's operated with enough power. Eventually I ended up with this setup. It's almost the same as the original design. The main difference is that the shifter pushes each shift slightly further than 90 degrees to compensate for the flexibility in the parts between the shifter and the gearbox. However, I ran into another problem. Over the last updates, which did not include any changes to the drive trains, the model started making a very strange sound in 4th gear. It's like something is resonating, but I'm not sure. It's really an aweful sound and it seems to induce friction too. I can't really locate the source. I think it's the gearboxes, but might also be the motors. I checked over and over again, but everything is connected correctly and all axles and gears are running very smoothly. The strange thing is that everything was working okay before. I made two hasty videos that present the sound. If there is anyone who has experienced this behavior or has a clue as to what might be going on, then please let me know what you think. Any help is much appreciated.
  16. I noticed the announcement/teaser video hasn't much views yet, about 800. I didn't use the feature before, but it was easy to share the video as a post on my YouTube channel. It might add a little to the visibility of this great initiative. Perhaps others can do the same.
  17. You could have entered the aircraft competition
  18. I updated the Rebrickable entries for the white / blue version and the orange version with the improved rim-hub connection. I added a yellow bush as a quiet memory of the yellow 3L lever in the wheel cover. It felt so naked without it . I also made mod-instructions for existing builds. This is what goes in... and this is what comes out...
  19. Now that you're asking, and because the winners of the aircraft contest will end up in the hall of fame too, I would like to nominate @Lipko's Light Sport Aitcraft as well.
  20. Thanks, @Rudivdk, I appreciate it. I love to see others utilizing some of my concepts which is why I can't keep these kind of things for myself.
  21. This has come to a great finish! Well implemented function and a joy for the eye. I can now understand it was more important to finish it the way you had in mind than to finish it in time for the contest. Sometimes builds turn into a creative necessity rather than just a creative design. It would have competed well with @Rudivdk's entry.
  22. Thanks @Pvdb for coming back with your further experience. I'm glad this has been sorted out now.
  23. What's this bug with CLAAS tires doing between these supercar icons? Very impressive line-up .
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