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Didumos69

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by Didumos69

  1. Didumos69
    I forgot to mention this one:
  2. Didumos69
    Assuming the 8t gear is still on the same axle and the 24t gear too, that should indeed give the same behavior.
  3. Didumos69
  4. Didumos69
    Will collide with the 24t gear above. Only a bush-shape will leave enough space for that gear.
  5. Didumos69
    Maybe the teeth of the 20t gear are scratching the biscuit piece. It has small ridges outlining the 5 holes. One more thing. From a strict perspective, the rear axles are an illegal build. The CV-joint pivots span 5l and the suspension arms only span 4l (center to center). This makes the suspension arms squeeze the CV-joints under the given angle. This may have been done deliberately, to reduce the chances of the CV-joints popping out of the differential, but it's not proper.
  6. Didumos69
    That will collide with the 24t gear above. The middle section of a bush gives just enough space for the teeth of the 24t gear, but a beam, which is wider than that section, does not.
  7. Didumos69
    The new CV-joints make a rattling sound. You can hear that very well when you make one wheel turn with the wheel at the other end of the diff. Maybe that explains what you are hearing.
  8. Didumos69
    That will be hard without using more space. Can you skip the red connector in which the 4l with endstop is inserted and use a longer axle instead. Then you're axle might be slightly stiffer. You might also try with two knob wheels instead of the 16t gears. They won't slip, but might give more friction. In general my advice is to always support axles on each side of each gear.
  9. Didumos69
    That's an option too of course. Great images! Thanks and have fun with it!
  10. Didumos69
    keep us posted.
  11. Didumos69
    Awesome!
  12. Didumos69
    Cool! Of course you can, that's what I share this for.
  13. Didumos69
    Thanks! You must be thinking this could be of use in some advanced suspension/steering setup . Especially strut-based suspension, as @romashkaman already pointed out.
  14. Didumos69
    Images don't show.
  15. Didumos69
    Thanks for the review! Just ordered it based on this. See possibilities for another B model .
  16. Didumos69
    You mean 'they are growing' . In numbers that is. Sorry for off-topic picture
  17. Didumos69
    Wow, great to see so many applications, where I did not see anything obvious. Probably because you can not really use it to operate something, which can be done with @Sariel's micro ball mount as @Philo pointed out, but for outrigger feet and crazy bodywork connection it seems to be quite useful. Keep them coming!
  18. Didumos69
    I thought that old suspension arm would be rare. When it comes to cleanness and simplicity, I would also stick to your original setup. Haha, but I'm slowly improving. My latest buggy is only 831 parts
  19. Didumos69
    They're coming. There's no turning back now ! Mass production is coming on stream.
  20. Didumos69
    I remember @PorkyMonster doing this: Source:
  21. Didumos69
    You should prevent the joints from dislocating. Can you add bushes and half bushes to the axle inserted in the CV-joint? They should cover the naked part of the axle completely. However, if the axles need to be able to slide in and out the CV-joints, for instance when you compress / decompress the suspension, then it will be much harder to solve this issue.
  22. Didumos69
    Yes, but those would be friction-locked, which is why I left them out, but it is an option of course.
  23. Didumos69
    I think this should work too:
  24. Didumos69
    I don't see immediate application of this concept, but it is a nice fact that you can make a perfectly fitting socket with half pins. It has practically no play.
  25. Didumos69
    Lovely build! I tinkered with this a little, but I don't see a simple solution. Triangles in Technic work best if you stick to the Pythagorean triples, which is not the case here. I did find an alternative setup though that does not require the old 6.5L suspension arm:
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