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Didumos69

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by Didumos69

  1. Didumos69
    I've seen quite some people building this model without pulling the inner race tire trick, for instance when they use third party tires. However, without the inner race tires, the wheels get very sloppy, while this model was intended to bring sloppyness to an absolute minimum. Or, in cases like @gregorski904, people used the Porsche rims to avoid sloppyness, but also that does not seem ideal. So I did a little more research in attaching the 15038 rims to the large turntables. I found a robust solution which works without the inner tire and which does not rely on the outer tire to fill the gap between the rim and the turntable. With this new approach the rim already sits tight against the turntable. This new approach is also form-locked, where the previous solution was friction-locked. I will update the instructions in the near future and will provide mod-instructions for people that want to incorporate this in an existing build. For early adopters here is the Stud.io-file and here is a photo sequence showing how the wheel hubs can be built.
  2. Didumos69
    Diederik van Leeuwen I only received a 'request received' email stating: Your request (1807) has been received and is being reviewed by our support staff. This was on Feb. 28th.
  3. Didumos69
    I applied over a week ago, but never heard since.
  4. Didumos69
    The modifications / hints from @Attika for the motorized version - different rubber band layout and a naked axle in the top of the lever - make for a very reliable shift. The rubber band is a bit tighter and no longer between the ratchet and it's support, and the naked axle ensures a slightly more complete shift. These modifications will make the manual version more robust too.
  5. Didumos69
    I'm happy the issue you had is clarified. I will try your ratchets soon.
  6. Didumos69
    Thanks, good to know this works for you. I'm still puzzled that the original setup doesn't work for you. If you want to use it, my advise would be to first follow the instructions by the letter and get it to work and than start tweaking it to your build. It all comes very precise, especially the height of the supports that prevent the ratchets from sinking too deep. Also the rubber band tension is an important factor.
  7. Didumos69
    @Pvdb The problem sounds strange, but I'm very curious about your improvement.
  8. Didumos69
    I completely agree with your first point and the second point makes it even more of a challenge and makes it very accessible at the same time.
  9. Didumos69
    Ferrari Monza SP2.
  10. Didumos69
    With this powerful shifter I hope I will resolve the 4th-to-3rd gear shift issue: In this type of shifter the return of the servo is very easy, because the servo output only needs to slip along a ratchet. To make even more powerfull quarter turns, I have been looking into a way to also utilize the return of the servo in making a shift. I found a way with two differentials, but it introduced too much slack. However, by adding a spring that is compressed when the servo is centered and expands when the servo turns left or right, I could amplify the torque of the shifter. The servo is powerful enough to compress the spring when it returns. I don't have a video, but it looks like this, and it works excellently. I will be incorporating this concept in the Dual Diagonal build soon.
  11. Didumos69
    With some hints from @Attika, I was able to upgrade this into a very reliable motorized shifter, which makes very 'beefy' 90 degree turns. Stud.io file can be found here. Instructions available on Rebrickable.
  12. Didumos69
    I saw the yellow springs and I understand what you're talking about. The whole setup looks solid and 'form-locked', I only found the pushrod to be friction-locked. It's a matter of taste I guess. One could also argue that imitating the original suspension would mean a one-piece push rod, but your interpretation is perfectly okay too. And like @Attika said, the wishbones are in their lowest position, so it probably won't come apart easily.
  13. Didumos69
    Great project! Are the rear wishbones attached to the springs with connectors? I think it would be better to use a 5l liftarm instead. Now the connection is not 'locked', if I read the image correctly.
  14. Didumos69
    +1 I have some small ideas ?
  15. Didumos69
    Great initiative! I say Corvette convertible.
  16. Didumos69
    And it works. I still have some doubts if this actually adds something, because the rotary catch in the gearbox also shortly disengages all gears in the gearbox. Bu if you want to mimic an automatic clutch, then this is a cool concept. In the mean time I dropped the black box idea (not my cup of tea) and made a new video which shows the inner workings much better. I also updated the Stud.io file and made instructions, which can be found on Rebrickable. If you build it, be sure to align the 20t bevel gears exactly as shown in the photo sequence.
  17. Didumos69
    Thanks! Good to know it worked out fine. I suppose you mean the new orange rotary catch. In fact, a gearbox operated by a rotary catch already has a very short moment of no-gear-engaged during shifts. What you are suggesting is not a clutch, but an auxiliary gear box that is used to engage / disengage the actual gearbox. The problem with engaging / disengaging driving rings at speed, is that when torque rises above a certain level, driving rings don't easily disengage. Your idea would suffer from the same problem, while the geared up rotary catch will be operated with very low torque. Nevertheless, having some kind of clutch that can be used to easily engage / disengage a gearbox during shifts would be very useful.
  18. Didumos69
    This should help and there is also the Stud.io file, but that one doesn't show the placement of the rubber bands.
  19. Didumos69
    Good question! Axles have rounded ends and are slightly shorter than the specified length. Also the #2 connector in the 90 degree limiter is slightly shorter than 3L. If the limiter would be braced firmly at both ends, there would still be no noticeable friction. I actually started with a 3L axle with stop (with the stop at the gear side) and implemented a limiter that was moved backwards by half a stud, but that was simply not needed.
  20. Didumos69
    I've been playing around with the 90° shifter concept a little more and I found a reliable and very compact shifter concept with an output perpendicular to the shifter movement. The latter is convenient for gear boxes that use the new rotary catch, for instance this one. Here are some cut-aways that show the inner workings. The concept relies on two ratchets at the top, a 90 degree limiter around the output and two 8t gears in the shifter. While in default (straight up) position, the upper ratchets confine the upper two teeth of the upper 8t gear. When you move the shifter, one ratchet will block the upper 8t gear and force a shift. When you move the shifter back, the ratchet will slip and the 90 degree limiter will prevent the output from rotating back. A nice convenience is that the yellow transversal axle could be rotated 45 degrees without changing the position of the teeth of the attached 8t gear. That way the yellow axle could be directly attached to a 90 degree limiter and used as transversal output. Instructions on Rebrickable.
  21. Didumos69
    Now I feel ashamed for having used panels in my rugged supercar. Is there a special ritual for coming clean . Hmm, soft axles... Let me throw the cat among the pigeons; from now on only for suspension, right?
  22. Didumos69
    Imo, this resembles everything Technic supercar-engineering is about. Very original and advanced front and rear axles. A tough chassis/roll cage and a very original well executed 'open' skin, which gives it your well-known signature. And the gearbox is finger-licking good too of course .
  23. Didumos69
    You're thoughts a hands-on experiences are always welcome! Next step in my dual diagonal project will be to skip the stepper and control the rotary catches with the servo directly, making sure I cover 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear. I can do that without many changes and it will test whether the servo is strong enough at all. If it works, I will try to build this new stepper in. No it doesn't vary a lot, only in extreme cases like the video above.
  24. Didumos69
    Good idea, one would be enough, but the closer to the rotary catches, the better. That's why I have two. I already installed only one silicon band on each limiter, but having just one limiter would be even better.
  25. Didumos69
    I don't really recognize this, but there certainly is a limit to the amount of resistance it can handle. I will have to see whether this is going to help me further with my diagonal drive. The video below gives some confidence. If it won't do the job, then I'm afraid a Servo-motor will never give enough torque to make that shift from 4th gear back to 3rd gear.
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