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supertruper1988

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by supertruper1988

  1. supertruper1988
    Regular Car Reviews is great hahahaha
  2. supertruper1988
    WOW! These look great!
  3. supertruper1988
    This is awesome! I have backed the project!
  4. supertruper1988
    Do you have a link to the facebook group?
  5. supertruper1988
    Here is an updated diagram showing that the Siding Curve works with the same 2-2/3 stud spacer to complete the yard ladder. I hope this is helpful! I really want to get a versatile solution to get the most support possible!
  6. supertruper1988
    That is what I am saying that the "split track" could be 8 studs shorter on the straight side to allow for more geometries. Then if the traditional 32 stud straight, you just add a half (8 stud long) straight. The yard ladder is going to need a custom piece no matter what and a 2-2/3 straight makes more sense to me that an entire set of custom parts.
  7. supertruper1988
    Does this help visualize better what I mean? The 24 stud makes so much more sense and the standard switch can still be created by adding an 8 stud straight.
  8. supertruper1988
    Thanks for the response! I really do think that the Yard switches should just be 8 studs shorter with a 2-2/3 straight to make up the grid difference. This will give the most flexibility and the 8 studs fits nice in the grid with everything else so you could re-purpose them for different geometry. I can make a couple more drawings if you need to show what I mean.
  9. supertruper1988
    Lots of info there. Here are some basics: Large train drivers like what you see on the L motor frames and on other steam engines are typically placed in Flanged/Blind/Flanged configuration. The radii of TLG curves are too small for all the wheels to be flanged. The other smaller wheels you see on steam engines are called the bogies and they come in many different forms.
  10. supertruper1988
    This doesn't look like it will. It would require another turnout "Split Track" section (part after the switch mechanism) that makes a total length of 24 studs for the turnout. Then it will require an odd ball 2-2/3 stud straight to make the ladder tracks work. You can see here how it would work here. The spaces are 2-2/3 long and the farthest space to the right is 2 of those together for 5-1/3: I hope that makes sense. @Lowa, would this be something that could be added to the kickstarter or as a product after the kickstarter? Its one new "Split Track" piece and a yard ladder straight that is 2-2/3 studs long. Another option would be to have all of the "Split Track" sections be shortened by 8 studs and then use a half or full length straight to make traditional geometries. It would also open up to more geometries because the straight section of the track is 24 studs instead of the traditional 32. I really like these and I will definitely be backing the kickstarter.
  11. supertruper1988
    I have PM'd you some more info!
  12. supertruper1988
    I have had great luck sharing these on rebrickable. If you need help making instructions, I would be happy to help.
  13. supertruper1988
    You can rotate the model (all steps) by right clicking and going to model rotation. If you need just one step, click it and then used the WASD keys to rotate.
  14. supertruper1988
    Hey actually machined the rails and put code 100 HO scale rail in the groove ;)
  15. supertruper1988
    That looks great! I will definitely be looking for a LEGO space in our next home. I am jealous haha! Got any details of those great BN Locos?
  16. supertruper1988
    Awesome! Thank you for these! I think I might add them to my 79111 Train for more pulling power!
  17. supertruper1988
    Looks great! Those intermodal cars are great too!
  18. supertruper1988
    This thing is so COOL! I really like the working platform. Would you be able to show how you made that mechanism? I really want to build something similar.
  19. supertruper1988
    Awesome! love all the changes! @msx80 any word on the upper limit of the image size?
  20. supertruper1988
    I use 4 of these on each side. Looks like this:
  21. supertruper1988
    You can easily do a Southern Pacific (Dark Bluish Gray with red ends) that would be cheaper because DBG is so common. There is also the blue Conrail versions by @zephyr1934 that looks amazing. If you get creative you could do a CSX or old blue/yellow Santa Fe with a Warbonnet but those parts and build are a little harder. There is also the orange BNSF or the Green/Back BN color scheme. If you get creative you could probably do a UP version too. The real life engine that the Maersk is inspired by is the SD40-2 and is one of the most widely used diesels ever made so there are plenty of alternates to base a re-color of the maersk on. I have the blue/yellow Santa Fe and the Gray/Red Southern Pacific already made in LDD. If you would like the files to make ordering from BrickLink easier, let me know. If you can wait a little bit I could probably even manage some instructions as well.
  22. supertruper1988
    Mine is working. What error are you getting?
  23. supertruper1988
    Looks great! I am pumped to see what you come up with further.
  24. supertruper1988
    It can pull the train pictured but if I added some rubber bands to the wheels, it could pull more. The M-motor isn't super powerful so you could probably get a maybe 6-7 cars behind it.
  25. supertruper1988
    I really like this idea! Have you seen the MILS road system? It uses sideways building techniques to get thinner lines that don't protrude. http://l-gauge.org/wiki/index.php?title=Reference_Instructions you can see them at the bottom of this page or you can see some examples here
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