supertruper1988

I am having an issue with rendering larger models in the instructions. I am wanting to make these workable as print media so I am doing 300dpi. That works out 3300px X 2550px for and 11x8.5 sheet. When I get to the last steps of a model, it starts to cut off. You can see this here: Here are my page settings: Also the page number in the xx/xx is off one from the box below it:

10 10 11 14 21

I havent actually used them because I cannot figure it out haha! As for you x# issue, I like to emulate TLG's instruction style for my own so that if I ever want to share them, they are easy to follow. I would recommend having only a few parts per step. The x# thing only works for small sub models that are marked as callouts.

You can see an explanation here!

Yes exactly! Is the straight portion 32 Studs long making a cross over 48 total studs?

please please please do short switches next!

A GoPro is small enough to fit on a 6 wide train base and with a little structure it could easily be pushed around

I too am having this issue at a similar resolution. I have been doing all my instructions at 300 dpi and I use 250% assembly zoom and 150% text zoom. I have not found a work around.

This is AWESOME. Everything is AWESOME! Congrats guys!

Hmm Id be interested to see how it works out

I have used version 22 for a little bit and if you create a sub model and then place the second, third, etc set of parts on the step after the sub model then it will auto add the x2, x3, etc. You can also add arrows but it seems to be a little tough to do. You can see that here:

Might I also suggest a glance at the new Brick Model Railroader site http://www.brickmodelrailroader.com/ You will also find many articles here and there about the "scale" of LEGO and the many facets. I have found that many L-Gauge builders use 1 Stud=15" which works out to be around 1:48 scale so the size an proportions will be similar to the O-Gauge trains you are used to seeing. Happy bricking!

Thanks! I didnt really change much of the outer appearance just fixed under the "hood" haha Thank you! I like the look of the small tender so I thought about sticking the IR receiver in there but I didnt like how it was working out. For a model of this size I was able to go from completed LDD to PDF in under an hour. I have some others that I am still working on slowly after a couple weeks and I have done a bunch of sports cars in @imvanya's wonderful sports car thread and those take about 15-20 minutes, once I can finalize the correct colors for the pieces. Does the flow of the instructions I have generated make sense? I can follow it but I also created them haha.

In the Future, you can look in the thred of official LEGO sets in LDD. Then open the file and delete the unwated parts. You can then upload that to bricklink or ReBrickable as a wanted list or you can simply export the BOM from LDD.

Hello fellow train builders! I received the Lone Ranger Train for X-mas in 2015 and I was thrilled to have such a great looking train but I was disappointed that it was just a push train. I looked, at the time, for some easy ways to make it powered but I was not a fan of using the tender as a pushed. I shelved the idea for a few month as my wife and I were planning to move. In the new house I had some space to setup some trains and I wanted to have a powered steamer for my setup. I did a bunch of research on Flickr and here on Eurobricks. I found @zephyr1934's great writeup on how to add a running gear so I ordered his wonderful driving rods and a few other items from Bricklink to take the look to the next level. I studied the Emerald Night's running gear and I ordered up some motors and other parts I thought I would need and got to work modifying my train. As you can see I was successful! I has to put the battery and IR Receiver in a custom box car (doors removed to show the detail) I have also created and LXF and some instructions using @msx80's wonderful Blueprint! My personal one has the driving rods mod but I did not want to take the work of Zephyr1934 so the instructions show the original front bogie design. There is a section where its easy to put either design on the train. I also modified the tender to come off easily so that you can store the train without too much hassle. I have included that in the instructions. I did not include the box car because I figure that each person will want a different type of consist and can build a simple box to hold a battery and IR receiver. You can down load the instructions and LXF here. I would also like some feedback on the instructions if you have a chance to look at them. I try to mirror the flow and style of the Official Lego ones

Fantastic build!

That track is not the electric model so you wont be able to get the power to the wheels anyways. You need these rails: http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=2865&name=Train, Track 9V Straight&category=[Train, Track]#T=P http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=2867&name=Train, Track 9V Curve&category=[Train, Track]#T=P And you will need this motor: http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=590&name=Electric, Train Motor 9V Modern&category=[Electric, Train]#T=P The rails you have are from the older 12v system that is a different power pickup method as seen here: http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=7735-1&name=Freight Train&category=[Train][12V]#T=P

Oh man I really like these! What a cool idea! Thanks for posting everyday!

Welcome! If you like the Maersk and own the 60052 then I highly suggest a look at @zephyr1934's fantastic mod/moc to make a pair of engines. Its really just a couple bricklink orders away from having all the parts. You can see the details here:

I have no money in this game but it seems that @codefox421, your main complaint is that its not exactly the same connection system as the TLG official one. It seems that if you were just replace the 1 straight headed into each large radii corner with one adapter and a half straight, your issues would be solved. ME rails are still compatible just not at the exact level that you are looking for. There is some ambiguity in the promises from ME rails and I think that for most AFOL's this is a perfectly viable solution.

Hello again friends! I have completed another instruction set. Its the P11 Model. The LXF and Instructions can be downloaded here

This is awesome! haha thank you for the mention I am glad I provided some laughs and inspiration!

How was the switch action? I really like these things!

Its funny I just re downloaded the zip and it works great. I did not have all the info and I thought it was quite strange. I also fixed my layout to get rid of the ghost steps. Thank you! for your help! If I could submit a couple feature requests: - When inserting a new step, it should retain the rotation data from the step previous. - Allow sub sub models to be shown when you have the "treat as a callout" checked on the sub model - In the layout page, have an option to move the step to the previous/next page so it can be arranged as needed if there is space but the layout algorithm sees it as an issue.

Hello car building friends! I have created a few of these cars "in the brick". Part of my process is to create instructions, both to check the viability of the build and to make them build-able again should they get broken. With IMVANYA's permission, I would like to post the 3 sets of instructions I have created. Here is the first one, its called the Elite. The LXF and Instructions can be downloaded here. The second is the FC 12 model. The LXF and Instructions can be downloaded here The third one is the latest Stallion model. The LXF and Instructions can be downloaded here