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PKW

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by PKW

  1. it is weird but it makes the car steering while it hurt obstacles and it is less useful due ti the light chassis, that steering seems to have too many play ;) you should Try with normal lego BB to understand of it is only a problem due to sbrick control xD these RC motors are wasted with a 3.1 reduction so maybe you can use L motors to gain same speed but test it with the lego bb mine green apple is faster, stronger and drive better than your beautiful truck ihihih there is a reason for my horrible aesthetics
  2. this is what i can say : the latency of the Rc system is not worse than the one of the PF one, it is only that the first stage control of the 3 degree is more or less at 20% lever travel ;) the output still being fast as a servo motor; about you truck you should remove the caster angle and reinforce the suspension using the same piece used n the snowmobile to reinforce steering, I don't have an sbrick but I think that with some practice you can drive it also with the delay I usually drive faster veichle (the same output not geared 1.6:1 twice but with the differential) and with lego remote is not difficult. one question :3 those batteries has a total of 500ma/h and so the only point it that you have a lighter veichle, shmade with 2 v1 receiver drove 2 rc motors connected to 56x26 wheel at the faster output, why yu don't try to make it of pure lego? maybe it could work better ;) PS: if your truck is horrible, what is mine?
  3. those sets in My opinion are technic exactly as manas arent bionicle, I think that The amount of technic pieces is not more than 50% of The space, but those Big unit and brackets can be used in dofferent Way exactly as pf does, someone use them also like tank receiver so their shape don't say that they are made only To be playable as built in The set. The offroad one was one of My first set when I was 6 untill now i'm playing with lego and i made some creations with it, unfortunatelly here radio interferences make it works only at 1 meter distance so i don't use it often, they are two of The Best racer set imo! (Hope I can finish My Crawler and post a video of My rc molotov baikal To show how different it can be used)
  4. I dreamed about these races for years you were a lucky person because you joined it, your car si really interesting, i searched photos of all the veichles and i noticed that along the races the best cars has a chassis similar to the gray off-road suv of that years, like yours suspension, is kostky organizing new races? They was awesome! Conratulations for the design, all those wire-drived have surprising performance vs PF but de Have to say that RC unit was forbidden by the rules
  5. are You going To use An sbrick? You can employ better The batteries, i was tinking of putting a lipo in the old 9V BB (small) and use a connector To power The sbrick, but i don't have that receiver ahah how you'll be sure of The Low voltage cut-off?
  6. I think he is talking about that 4-years old MOC, but if no one know this moc, it is a good thing that someone start a discussion about it IMO
  7. yes, lipos are expensive, And I also noticed that My lipo BB has The same problem of yours, i think lego should find a more stable Way To protect their electronics about The led:') some years ago I made some tank wars (to win You have To destroy all opponent's track fighting on a carpet with some obstacles put under it) and after every match I don't Power off The batteries, every time My friend says "you think that it is ONLY a small led(the one of The BB) But it is A small led" (some times i lost The battle because o discharged batteries) so when You has a 750mah protection if You lost 50-70 mah with one sbrick and the leds it is more or less The 10%, it is not a really small amount of Power
  8. awesome MOC rm8!! but why you want to modify legoBB if you can power the sbrick with normal RC lipo batteries? :3 waiting for the video! -EDIT maybe using only one Sbrick and no light you can gain some ma/h more...
  9. this is the best i can do with LDD, unfortunately the abundance of forcing parts in the real one is really difficult to replicate, 16M flex rod doesn't flex :( and when I have finishd it Ldd crashed -.- so rebuilding the last part I understood that I've chosen LDD classic and I can't put the PF elements.. hope you like it and if someone can ad an L motor placeholder I'll thank him ;) if you want I can update this LDD file to the original version :3 dawnbraker rc mod.lxf
  10. Ciao! the gear calculator is useful To understand The power/Speed of a car, it is not necessary if you have enough experience with PF but it could be useful to understand which/how many motos use for a function I'mm not an expert builder but I start searching photos of a "real version" of My lego (la musa ispiratrice) even if I building something only ispired by real ones, so I Can have an idea of The proportions And usually set a certain wheel type To decide The scale, after I build what is more important that respect The dimension i've choosen: axles And transmission, with a bit of the bodywork
  11. ti problem with The combination of the 16t gear and The new racks in not The module But The height of the rack, old version has a 1/2M base height so in a 2M space (from the gear axle To the rack support) they can fit with the 16t gear. using the new ore you teorically need 2,5M space, support the rack with naked axle don't guarantee full 2,5M space so the 16t gear Point force the rack but beeing them shorter than the rack points the gear "lock" himself in the position displayed in your photo, the new 16t gear has smaller points (some decimillimeter less) enough to ran smoothly but not in a fluid way
  12. This could be a concept for an idea that will sove the problem of the distance
  13. Checked photos oggi the real one, so this stringe wheelbase is another thing that male this lego truck more similar ti the e11t, so again well done :3 only i don't like Also the real truck wheelbase, but this is only mi taste ;)
  14. already seen The video! Well Done, But The rear Wheel should have The same gap that The front ones have IMO
  15. yes I built it in that way To show The problem it create, it also has an enough frictioned movement
  16. with the 14t gear it works perfect, as it does with the 12t one ;) +1 just a little bit better with the new gear, because the diameter of an axle is obviously smaller than the height of a liftarm:
  17. 3D printed tyres? lego one can't sustain The torque? xD
  18. teorically it sohuldn't work because The 16t gear il not compatible with the new racks, But... If you move The 2m axes until their small gaps make the racks sliding on it it could work, i think the new gears are little bit smaller but I have To try when I get home
  19. those are some MOCs i'll show on an exhibition in Rome, My future project? success to edit videos of some MOCs I've made (rc molotov baikal and a 4x4 crawler attending the model expo verona) and also make an film a race between this cars
  20. ahahah thank you! you're The frist To follow my suggestion To tell me my mistakes, it is a typing one because of the dictionary of my Phone. what pieces do you need? some of them could be substituted, The lipo/AA BB is not necessary, about The video unfortunatelly I think I Can make it the frist of june :(
  21. thank you! yes but i think that if i'll use one BB for one motor and one for the other but in the same transmission maybe they will brake each other, i saw the instruction yesterday, unfortunately i can't build it, but if i success you can be sure that i'll post here an rc-unit based version, its suspension system is to awesome to be used only on low speed crawling
  22. that green buggy is awesome !! i Hope i can make an rc unit version :3 using battlebots i found that the u gear cage il really heavy And It is also The new yellowish gear, you have tried an 1:1,6 gear ratio? and also (i'm asking this everywhere) do you notice power differences with the lipo BB? because I have some trouble with The thermal protecion, And I don't want To waste money for another pack if mine has Not The sane power (and so I can't make 2BB-equipped Cars)
  23. you are so angry with the diffs, but thee problem is not the real ones, but the electrical one, I think that if you change the motors setup (1st receiver connected to 1st and 3rd axle and 2nd to 2nd and 4th) you'll gain a little bit more torque on axles that don't slip but also link all the transmission with u joint will improve drastically the traction, but i think it is something too difficult or that needs to change the whole designs, maybe a different shocks setup... anyway this is an awesome creation and i think that your idea to make a 8x8 9398 will inspire lots of people ;)
  24. yes, It is a good tatra, Great work, The only thing that is a little bit strange is The Big movement The wheels do while steering But it is lego ;) in the description you meant 20cm w not wide? long not for sure (sorry, I've seen the correction) ahahah, do you have problems while the motors need high torque? like when it stops due To the thermal protection of the BB
  25. I love It! You just have To use new plastic Small tracks To make It look better imo ;)
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