Appie

Where? I see no post of Milan in your topic, only an image of you with a 45L shape on 2 ends of your bot, which imo proves nothing that the whole contraption is within 45x45 since that requires the measurement of 2 dimensions at the same time and not one and the image linked by Rennuh from your topic clearly shows it isn't when measured in two dimensions. Quoted from your topic. This is a classic "finding a loophole in the rules", which was nulled on page 2 of this topic. But answer me this question from my last post:

The rule has been pretty clear since page 2 of this topic and both topics you linked failed to read it properly. It has to fit in a cube of 45x45x45 pre-battle with no cheating by positioning stuff diagonally. So Jim is right: What do the 2 topics linked by Rennuh gain from being build so big? What of their functions couldn't have fit in a smaller format? Remember these bots won't actually be fighting anyway. So the entries are more a proof of concept than an actual battle bot. In other words: size shouldn't matter.

I'd personally wish to see a competition again with a part limit. It's been ages since the last. Edit: And/Or a competition where you can't use 1-3 very often used parts? Perhaps that's a fun way to think of new solutions? Easy picking: just choose 1-3 from the 'favorite part' topic.

I see some used in the sideskirts. Perhaps the black 1L liftarm would fit as well (perhaps even look better). Which is a part available in black since this year (or last year) and less of a problem to acquire?

Not to mention this part and its smaller brother (the one with pins) are practically impossible to get a gear grinded in. Awesome part where you 100% don't want a driveline to fail.

You scared me here since you were talking about this actual tribute model up until the bolded part, but the 3 sets combined have 1062 parts. I would have found it quite shocking if this tribute had that many parts. As for mods, I personally wouldn't do front suspension, simply because the original didn't have it. I would add a diff for sure though.

Exactly this. If I found out I needed a pinhole somewhere in the structure before this part it would result in an overhaul of the entire structure surrounding it. Now it's: I need a pinhole and slap in this part and done. This part fits the trend that we basically get a pin for every problem and now we have all options for a pinhole with pin or axle mount too. I do like the part though, but I can't shake the cheating feeling. On the other hand plenty of cases where it solves something I wouldn't know how to fix otherwise. Like the rear suspension of my little 8865. I wouldn't know how to do differently than using this part for a strong suspension and also, like Jeroen, I like that for such cases the connection is so stupidly strong with this part.

Yup that too. Besides it feeling like cheating it can be a hard part to mount. On another note to be clear since my post is being quoted alot out of context in this topic. That part is not my favorite part, it's the one Mahjqa linked. Mahjqa's part I really like and have been calling 'superstukje' (Dutch for super part) since I found out it existed.

High five! Coming back from my dark ages a couple of years ago this was the first piece I loved the most of all the new stuff and still do, it's such an awesome strong versatile part. The past year this part has been coming in close second: I feel like I am cheating every time I use it...

I figured that was the case with the knobwheel and I also noticed a few colour swaps but that's also a nice tribute in a way though. Roll with what parts you do have like the old days instead of: hi bricklink

Thanks you very much for the kind words. Makes me happy to see people building it! I like your mod and it seems to work pretty well. Parts of it might be a wee little too small in scale, mainly the width (but then again, mine is too big in parts compared to scale: cylinders too big and the whole engine 1 stud too high), but it is defintely cute like this. Perhaps with your mod the exhausts could be placed a little closer to the engine. This won't work with the 1x1 cones I used, due to the springs of the suspension, but you should be able to with those yellow half bushes you got in their place. I like your solution for the engine fan btw I had this propellor laying around from my 90's Lego so I thought of that first, but I don't know if I would have ever come up with using a knob gear instead. Thanks for the link of the mini v6, that will come in handy for sure in the future.

I think it would be awesome, but I am wondering how fast and how big the additional load would be to view a topic when this is used on big models. Your example is pretty small and even that takes 2-3 secs (on my connection and pc anyway) to "fetch" the bricks. How long would a 1k part model take? And if embedded, how much extra data would this be when loading a topic? I asked this mostly from a phone-user perspective where at least in our country people have data plans. Having it be a link instead of embedded would provide the choice to the user to spend his MB's on that or not.

Wow cool! Thanks for all the work you put into this! On a side note: No worries, the real life version hasn't changed much from the LDD we had. The 2017 part for the driveshaft wasn't in LDD (mine anyway) and the 40 year brick is the other minor change. The rest of my current version was all in the LDD. I actually made mine match the LDD more instead of going away from it

Sorry to get back to this little model, but the other day it hit me, I was missing a very nice piece Lego released this year to commemorate these kind of tributes and I already had a very nice spot to put it: Other than that I bought some LBG #44 connectors on bricklink, which while widely available are pretty pricey Black ones work well too, since they aren't in sight very much. (and as you can see I put the 2017 part of the pinhole with 2 axles on the driveshaft. Not that wasn't strong before, due to the gearbox structure on top of it, but it annoyed me )

My opinion won't come as a surprise I think, but Pretty much these 2 comments nailed it. Me neither, I am still trying to figure out my "biggest moc", but looking at Sariel's advice, I technically need to build it even bigger, but making it bigger would be freaking nuts since it's already huge, result: most likely a compromise on the functions

My current method is something like this, except for it being containers, mine are the little drawers removed from my storage setup. It works pretty well, because you don't have to open a drawer every time for the same part (or parts in my case since I tend to put 2-4 types of parts in one drawer). However, some common parts I don't put on the table, because it's easy to get too full (my table is 120x50cm with my storage setup at the rear). So that might be something to keep in mind.

I see you didn't mount the PF lights on the upper lights straight/leveled like the ones that turn, this should prevent the touching of the lights when the model is on the floor. However, they will still touch when the suspension is fully compressed from my experience. No big deal imo. I think the best comment I got for this model from Jeroen when I showed it was "detail p*rn", which sums it up nicely imo I'd say go for it, it's seriously the best thing you can do with a Porsche set (62% of the parts already there).

That's a very cool little Mercedes. Great work putting all those PF parts in there and still looking great. Love the functions and the trailer

The shift from 4th to 5th requires some extra force indeed, it's because at that point there are 3 rubber bands being engaged for that shift. 1-4 and 5-8 should be smooth though, as well from the HOG and the paddles. Jeroen Ottens warned us about the 16L axles during test building to wait until the model was finished to judge. The black soft axles follow a curve present on the real life model, where it's also black. They come pretty close to that with the way they are mounted. So you might like those axles later in the build.

Thanks alot for the help. Yesterday I found a way to make the floating "diff" pop a little all the time when fully compressing the suspension on both sides at the same time. So I looked for a method to fix this issue and it was simply to turn the 4L thin lever liftarm around and have the 2L axle in the crossblock slightly moved upwards. Now it won't move at all when both sides are fully compressed. I updated the LDD (in the OP as well) to resemble this change. New LDD can be downloaded here

I don't see a reason why it shouldn't work except perhaps giving a little more slack in the steering with the addition of another frictionless pin. However, while I appreciate the thought you put into this, I am afraid I don't like the solution for a couple of reasons and mostly relate to its big brother: - Dash is 4 studs in depth on the big brother, so I'd rather look for a solution that fits in 2 studs to be in scale and not in 3 like this. - I don't like the 3L thin liftarms in front of the dash to secure the whole thing. I considered this when I was building the model, but that space is wide open on the original, so I wanted to keep it open too. In scale, to be as open as its big brother I'd have to use 0.5 studs for the beams to which I would mount the steering, I am already using the full depth of the 2 studs on the scaled dash, I'd rather not add more to it. - The black crossblocks on the ends of your solution ruin the two-tone dash the original had, changing them to red would ruin the bottom half the original had. So I was mostly looking at solutions at the rear of the dash (where I put my red crossblock on the passengers' side). Since the original has red technic bricks in those places too, I figured I could too - I'd like to avoid placing the headlights antenna on the passenger's side if possible edit: More or less? I think it's as close as we're going to get. I tried for 10 minutes to get it to work but didn't think to simply try this. Nice! As for the pin, thanks, saw I had a minor alignment issue on the driver's side which caused misalignment on the passenger's side, but it was late thursday and figured it was more important to release the LDD than waste time on such a minor thing and since then I simply forgot about it Edit: Updated LDD file. Managed to get antenna on the car, also lined up the steering more closely to where it's susposed to be on the real life model and aligned the pins for the dash. The 9L liftarm I still can't mount. I also noticed why I can't mount that liftarm, it collides with the steering mechanism. On the real life model I seem to be enjoying the Lego margin of parts and minor slack of parts in that area, not limited to just the steering mechanism but also the nose as whole. It being only really secured by the 4L thin liftarms in the front at the headlights and by the front window (the front fenders I wouldn't call secured with the 2L liftarms, which is on purpose, at least on the side of the steering), the dash can rest on the steering mechanism. Also the 4L axles with stop from the suspension were on purpose pushed exactly into the half bush at the front. More makes the suspension work poor and have the nose sack lower than the proper stance. For people building from the LDD, I thought that would be more important to know. The rear has the same, but instead of half bushes (which would be too much for the amount of axle left to mount them on), the thin 3L blue liftarm locks them into place for the proper stance, while also providing a solution to prevent the upper part of the suspension from moving inwards making the negative camber effect bigger.

@Didumos69 I fixed the front suspension so save your time, I also put the LDD back in first gear Also managed to attached at least 1 of the 6L links to the steering, can't get the second one to work though in LDD. Updated LDD

Cool! Looks alot better than it being flat on the ground Thanks! As for the colours... yeah, I just picked some colours in LDD Extended that looked similar to what they were in real life

And LDD updated (again), I think i forgot nothing now, all should be in there Feel free to post any comments about it or poke holes in it. I also edited the OP with the LDD and added some information I forgot in my scaling text: The 0.48 scaling was based on the front and/or rear axle width including tires. The scaling was not based on the usual method of using the tires' height . If I wanted a tire in that scale I would need 39mm tires, which Lego does not make, so my options were 43mm tires or these 37mm tires. 43mm felt like a big increase in scale (and bigger model as a result) and 2mm smaller is barely visible imo, so I went with these tires and a smaller model.

It surprised me a little too, but like most of my builds, it's pretty packed. And a good portion of the parts is in the details to mimic the original like the brick build engine (30 parts or so), exhausts (12 parts), gearbox (20 parts or so), rear suspension (20 parts), headlights (15 parts or so) and chairs (45 parts or so). So that's about 150 parts to get the look. None of the parts are particularly rare with current Lego, except the wishbones of the front suspension (but plenty on bricklink) and perhaps the 3 pinhole crossblock I used in the chairs in blue. No idea what those do on bricklink. Edit: oh and the frictionless 8T gear from the 42009.