Lasse D

Great prototype @djm! I was trying to build a similar mechanism when my GBC ball pump was built earlier this year. It is really hard to make the "rebound" part of it work well. I gave up and ended up using a much simpler mechanism: There are blue pins holding the 8 tooth gears on the motor side and the mechanism gives a rebound when it slips, thus undoing the jam. It would be nice to use a more visually impressive mechanism like yours.

Thanks. I don't have instructions for it yet. I'm still trying to make the SBrick functions work well, and currently I have issues getting the lights to work properly. Any suggestions are welcome :)

Thanks a lot. I have now finally finished rebuilding the Porsche: The changes consist of pretty much a complete overhaul of everything. Only details like the wheels, headlights, the parts of the sides with the stickers and the upper air intakes above the wheels have remained from the version before Le Mans. Now it's time to make building instructions and apply stickers. A new sticker sheet has been printed. It will hopefully result in better stickers this time around. The Toyota is still very much a WIP. The triangular livery has proven much harder to build in LEGO than the cleaner red and gray lines on the Porsche. I will update with progress on the instructions.

Is it too late with a request? The Chiron has e very cool interior detail with a large curved chrome bar in the middle mimicing the outer details. I can't see it in your model. Would it be possible to include it in the interior?

I am amazed by how the engine fits into the car. It looks great and really detailed!

Just to add detail. Community subtitles is something the original content creator can turn enable at their discretion. It seems rather odd that there are so many reuploading channels on Youtube given how easily they are shut down and thus the effort is wasted for the reuploaders.

On the other hand. Sheepo's Mustang is a very nice scale Technica Supercar despite the wheels being much too small.

Good catch. However. The molding indentation seems rather large and might make these balls become stuck more easily. Has anyone tried them out?

After having tested the module at the event on Dokk1 in Århus: We found that the Hamster wheel is leaky! It drops balls on both sides. This has been improved now: Improvements include new "ball pusher", lower sides (possible because fewer balls are dropped), updated hamster and new exit shoot. Now it no longer drops any balls :)

We seem to have moved fragments of the discussion to individual MOC threads. I personally prefer to discuss it in here. "When is a MOC a scale model" is what is currently being discussed. Some argue that certain scales are simply too small for you to make a proper scale model. I reply that the object being modelled will then become the determining factor. Case in point. A Hummer can be built in a very small scale (1:40 I recon) while my 1:20 Le Mans prototypes might be pushing it even theough they are much larger. It is mentioned that blueprints, or something similar showing that you really strive for the best accuracy, would make a great impact on wether a MOC is a scale model or not. That would make it hard for cityscape builders to qualify. And finally there are the subjects that we don't really want to discuss: What about people who don't have the best part selection, patience, or experience to improve a model: When is a model "worthy"? I don't like dragging other people in, so I will take some examples from my own collection. Suppose someone first posted this Scania R-series in scale 1:25: It would qualify as a scale model and be posted in here ince it most accurately follows the blueprints for this particular model. Then another poster submits the following model at a later time. Same scale. Same truck. but inferior building techniques, part selection and it is clear that much less time has been spent designing it: Is it still a "Scale Model"? Should it be excluded since the better model was submitted first? Should it be excluded once a better model s submitted? My answers to that last row are resounding Yes, No, Hell no! But we have to be clear about this. Inclusiveness has been mentioned. But for this to work we also need to point to consistent rules saying why a model is OK or whjy it is not. Right now there are topics which are being moved around, but it is not done consistently.

Try to keep the little button inside of the battery compartment pressed in to trick it into thinking there is a stable power supply. You can see the pin on top of the battery pack - it is there to push the button and enable this function, although I recommend running at 7.5V.

I believe it looks more like a Jaguar XJ220, in which case the rear part should be this long.

Indeed it is. Thanks @Doug72

Thanks for the replies. As for getting started with GBC I always design my modules so that you can run with non-LEGO balls, such as beets with a diameter around 14mm. We had a topic discussing this, but my google-foo is failing me.

Looking good. I have subscribed with my GBC account (MMM).

Well. I suppose it's all about the subject then. My trucks are in the small scale of 1:25 but are easier to recognize (My latest DAF XF turned out great, but the Volvo FH has been more than one year in development because I can't get the shape right). These cars are in scale 1:20, the large Legoland scale, and should therefore be even easier to build. Do they belong in this subforum? Perhaps we will find out when more people have added MOCs. This is the status after 2 hours on each car. The Porsche has received a new brick built frame for sturdiness. Here you can see the new front splitter. I want to move the curved slopes out a stud to make it look even more like the real one. I'm also considering adding a plate to the height of the headlights and perhaps lowering the windscreen a plate. All work on the Toyota was spent cutting a stud off of the length of the rear section and redesigning that section. Update After 4 hours the progress on the Porsche is leaving the Toyota in the dust. As you can see, I have successfully put the curved slopes further to the corners of the front splitter, and pushed the whole splitter a plate out in front of the Porsche. The intakes on the side have been updated and the cabin is now primarily 5 studs wide instead of 4. Other details, such as the nose, side mirrors, and top of the window are also updated. The Toyota takes much longer to rebuild because I want to build the stripes on the livery. I have now added both the red wedge and the tiny black wedge on the side of the body, and I would like to update the black wedges on the sides of the front as well. To be continued.

Update 2 New, more reliable, version of the module is up. The GBC layout now contains 20 modules. See my latest message below. Update The module has been updated with an anti-jamming mechanism. See the updated building instructions on http://c-mt.dk and Rebrickable (http://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-8843/LasseD/gcb-conveyor-starter-module/). See my latest post for the process of testing and improving the module. It is about time I did my part for getting new members on board the Great Ball Contraption (GBC) train. Here is my starter module. It is a simple conveyor module with 194 parts where none of the parts should be hard to come by. Here are the building instructions: http://c-mt.dk/instructions/models_gbc-GBCStarterConveyerBelt.htm In the video I also show how the module works in a circuit. This module should be easy to multiply where a single motor powers multiple modules. I will try to do that next.

This hugely complicated robot was supposed to solve the "Professor Game", but it was an absolute nightmare to program (3 motors, but 6 functions, unreliable compas, etc.) and ate gears for breakfast: I'm planning on a new version with EV3 instead so that I don't have to make mechanical multiplexers.

I stare at them in order to find flaws and places to improve. SO in the way @TechnicRCRacer put it: Design, build, stare, rebuild, stare, rebuild, stare, rebuild, ...

Mine is from an alternate model I made of an old Creator set: It was made for a competition in my lug where we had to make an alternate of a set for a maximum MSRP of 200DKK. It roared when you pressed the head, and the wings also flapped when you did so. It did quite well in that competition.

Yep. There are still parts lying on the Circuit de la Sarthe. I have started reconstructing the cars from the bottom up. The wheels have been moved half a plate down, so the clearance from the top of the wheel hubs is better. The lower boards are also pushed further back and forward to improve structural integrity. Meanwhile I'm also trying to make them even more realistic!: The rear lights on the 919R have been fixed, and the front splitter is now curved (will be shown next time), while the TS050 has had its third nose job :D Here is progress after spending one hour on each car: I currently spend one hour on separate projects per day. Since I have 6 ongoing projects (and a billion in the back log), I might not be able to show progress on these LMP1's every day, but it's progressing.

Yeah. The larger the scale, the more detailed the model will be... and the lighter my wallet will be :D Now. I have returned from Le Mans, but the cars did not survive: I will post an update with pictures from the race. The cars will be rebuilt with interior, updated detailing, and a much, much sturdier design.

With the latest update this model looks on level with the scale ABS models my uncle used to glue together and paint. It is truly art to make "blocky" LEGO elements look like the real thing. You truly are the boss, man! BTW. Have you tried to build the rear arms using those really long curved slopes (Seen on the 75870 Corvette) and compared them to your current solution? I wonder if that would work even better, of if they are too long.

Wow! That's an impressive gearbox! I would love to see some closeups/cutouts of the details. As for strength, I see that most other builders have success using a lot of the gray box frame parts in order to make a tough chassis. This might help you a lot since you have this issue. I suppose other members can share their experience with how to best construct such frames (I don't have much experience in this regard).

Great to see your car in here! You have such a high level of attention to detail, such as mimicing the airflow behind the rear wheel. It's not at all an easy car to build with all those crazy lines in the livery. Well done.