Lasse D

Thanks. I was planning on having additional moving parts, but I am running out of place inside of the submarine. The slider for the pump takes up a lot of the free space, but it is also necessary in order to be robust. The plan was to have the periscopes rotate a little back and forth. Thanks. I am planning to make a transparent model to better show the mechanism. It should be done this week so that it can be posted in the weekend. I can only take well lit pictures in the weekend since my work schedule clashes with the sunny hours :D Thanks. The next module should fix that. The pump itself will act as the inbox scrambler instead of the up-and-down moti9on. Yes. And I plan on fixing, updating and posting results for them as well.

Here is a GBC mod of the LEGO Ideas set 21306 Yellow Submarine with The Beatles! The XL motor runs on speed 1 or 2 (both will do, but speed 2 is better at handling batches of 50+ balls) A closeup of the mechanism from outside: I'm quite satisfied with how well the "anti-jamming" mechanism works. I intend on making a separate module with all themechanism exposed so it's easier to see. But for now. Enjoy the Beatles :)

The pump mechanism I posted in my last message turns out to suffer from a lot of jamming in real life applications. I will look into ways to counter these jams.

That's... insanely impressive! It is great to see how you have improved the design over the years.

It sounds like it has been short circuited. Try to power it using another M motor as generator to see if it will even move.

Yeah, I would have expected at least a video on the ship or the jet, which are both large, detailed and special sets. For some reason I am now proud the owner of 7 of these ships, so I expect a lot of modding coming up - or perhaps a mega ship?

From what I have read, the PF receiver would turn hot and shut down when overloaded. I'm glad to hear if this isn't the case with the V2 receiver. Perhaps the weight problems can be fixed by further removing parts from the model? A comparison of the time that the model can run on the two battery sources would be nice, yes. Thanks :)

Yeah. I like Klaus' solution. It saves his motors and doesn't cause others to have to change the voltage for their modules. Meanwhile I'm looking into a pump design for a tight space, and after fiddling around I built this: It is super simple with round bricks on a 2L thin liftarm that pumps: The blue part rotates while the red part is pushed back and forth. I have seen similar ball pump designs, but I don't recall them being this simple. Does anyone have experience with this design and know if there are any serious flaws? I am concurrently constructing a bunch of models, but hope the GBC module will be done by the end of this week.

That's quite possibly the most powerful 100% LEGO mod you can make. I would love to see a video as well! Looking forward to it :) The RC motors have a tendency to overload the PF receivers. What is the normal way of overcoming this problem? Is the SBrick OK with these motors?

The 42065 RC Tracked Racer is a nice canvas for modding. I was a bit disappointed when I found that it didn't have any technic gears apart from what you find when you disassemble the motors. Technic has always been used to teach mechanics to kids, and I personally find differential drive to be a super interesting alternative to the direct drive approach. It didn't take more than a couple of hours to stuff in a couple of differentials, so I made a little video of this mod in action: Another obvious "MOD" is to SBrick the model. This is a ridiculously simple MOD, so I decided to document the whole process of unpacking, updating, and programming a remote using the SBrick: I also had super high hopes for the L-motors. Perhaps this would be more interesting with a 2:1 gearing for double speed. This is how the standard direct-drive model performs with L-motors: Next up will be a GBC-module built mostly from parts of the model. To make a plain belt drive module is not really interesting anymore, so I'm currently trying to figure out if it can be made more interesting.

Last time I spoke with Maico at an event (Hi Maico :) ) we discussed this. Usually we had all train regulators run on full power because it is easy to reset a module that has been fixed. However. Running on full power also causes a lot of wear and tear, so we are discussing whether we should aim for 3 or 4 (out of 6) and simply have this as a standard speed. I have always used lower speeds for my own modules (down to 1 for my big rings and even ½ for a module once), but it quickly becomes a mess when the modules need individual voltages. What do you guys think about making 3 or 4 the standard speed?

I know, and it annoys me as well. I have to make the front axle either 11 or 13 wide, and both solutions are bad because the cabin is 12 wide. I could add a spacer between the wheel and steering arm, which would make it 12 wide, but then the wheel would need more forward and backward space, which ruins the cool look of having super tight wheel arches. It's a monument of compromise :D While updating the DAF, my SBricks came and I have made an update to the container truck: EDIT: I finished the updates for the DAF XF! The following changes have been made: - New license plate: Euro style and lower than before while not obstructing the lower grille. - Plate above the license plate has been moves ½ plate up. - Tiles instead of curved slopes next to the headlights are better at simulating the rounded shape surrounding the grille area. - By popular request: Chrome teeth are now turned around and in a different stepped pattern allowing the upper-most line to be 7 wide. - Complete new headlights. Still with LED lights. - Doors now start a brick higher, which gives a better slope for the wheel well - Rounded bricks for the front air ducts give a better flow in the styling than the cheese slopes. - Hinges are used to give the small vertical cracks in the light orange right below the windscreen. - The sun screen is updated to have less edges and with a wider depression like the original truck. - The gray graphics on the top is wider. Moving on to the back: - The upper liftarms in the frame have been shortened, allowing the fuel tanks to be full length. - Hinges are used to make the step plates between the fuel tanks more robust (non-visible change) - A 4L lightsabre blade has been inserted in the gas canister in the back because they kept breaking when I moved the model while taking the pictures. Now I have a lot of changes to be made on the trailer.

Notice. This part of Germany doesn't accept credit cards everywhere (especially at restaurants and those open markets). I recommend getting some cash to cover purchases of food.

I will look into how to add gears for a more interesting model, as I'm planning on adding differential drive. It turns out that using L-motors doesn't really add much to the set. I have made a separate video to show this ("Lasse Deleuran" on youtube).

I also like the suggestion of inverting the teeth. I originally placed them studs-up in order to make the front possible. I will see if it is possible to invert them. I have also changed some other parts: - The mirrors are updated so there isn't an additional bar between the mirrors and the cab. - The Sun screen now has an indentation to mimic the rear truck. - The detailing on the sides of the front is updated. You can see how it compares to the previous version. I still have to attach it and make the panel gaps smaller. - The headlights will be updated. Again there is one updated light and one of the previous version. - The doors will be changed to they start one stud higher. I will try to make a complete update will this for the next post.

Lasse Deleuran signing up: - Need reservation at Kirchenbauerhof: yes (1 person) - Apartment sharing: yes. No problem. People seem nice and friendly. - Number of persons and length of stay? 1 person from Wednesday to Sunday (4 nights) - Are you member of a registered LUG? No, although some say this is a mistake. - Anything else we need to know? Will bring along some RC LEGO trucks!

Thanks for the reply. I just got back from vacation, so it's time to pick up where I left off. While looking at the wind screen area, by reducing the interior height, the area with the windscreen wipers will seems lower as well. It is also more correct in this height. Here is the updated front: Putting it into Griddy and comparing to the original: It is clear where I have taken some "artistic freedom", but I think this is a good way to look at the front and perhaps find places for improvements. I now notice that the highlighted horizontal lines start a plate higher on the LEGO model, so I hope it isn't too distracting. I would really like to lower the height of the lights by a plate, or make the lowest small lights a bit wider, but that is not an easy change to make. Meanwhile, it is also time to fix the trailer.

I would like to join. Is this the sign up topic? In that case I would like to sign up.

This is a fantastic alternate model! It is quite amazing that you were able to include so many angles in the design when you think of the original boxy car. You should consider putting it on Rebrickable as well if you have not already done so.

Thanks everyone. I was pretty floored when I was told the fate of the model. I would have liked to have given her a different pose.

A couple of years ago I was comissioned to build a Weber Gas Grill (and some flowers) for an anniversary. This is the end result: The gas canister is located on the left side: I tried to include as many details as possible. Inside there is a removable grill which can be placed in two different levels: Underneath there is an oil tray which can be taken out: It also comes with a T-bone steak: The full model: Additional pictures can be found in the Brickshelf gallery: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=547435

It is now more than 3 years ago that I built this Northern Saw Whet Owl, so it is about time that I present it. It was given as a gift to a man who is a huge life long fan owl enthusiast. With this in mind I had to take great care in selecting the right colors and molding the head to be as accurate as possible. Now this was a fun challenge :)

For the opening of Legoland in 2015 I was asked to make a display model of the main entrance. This was displayed in the lobby of the hotel so that visitors entering from there could see what the other entrance looks like. It's a huge model, so here are some close-ups of the details: There are a couple of large dinosaurs near the flag sculpture. The corners of the bricks of the real models have been smoothed out so that children do not hurt themselves when they climb on top of it: I was unfortunately not able to get a 2x2 tile with the LEGO logo. It could have completed the large sculpture at the entrance: The entrance welcomes in Danish, German and English: There is an ATM next to the information counters: On the left you find the ticket shops. I had also made one in yellow and one in green, but there wasn't enough space: On the right there is a sculpture with clown inside of the flower arrangement: The marching band on top of the entrance: The complete model: I am not aware of the current whereabouts of this model. I hope it is on display somewhere. Brickshelf gallery with more pictures: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=550524

Back in 2013 there was Shrek musical. They were advertising it at LEGO World in Copenhagen, and wanted some LEGO models of small dragons. I was asked to make some miniature pink dragons and built these: I think they liked them, but they wanted something... larger. "Lasse. Can you build the dragon from Shrek?" "Sure can do!" She was unfortunately killed while cleaning up after the exhibition, so these pictures are all that is left. The younglings didn't survive either ;( Here is the brickshelf folder with more pictures: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=523126

A couple of years ago I was asked to build a couple of wedding cake toppers in Legoland scale (1:20). Here are the LDD building instructions in case you want to build your own: Instructions for the bride: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/gtahelper/Events/caketoppers/bride.lxf Instructions for the groom: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/gtahelper/Events/caketoppers/groom.lxf (Yay for 10 years at Eurobricks :) )