Lasse D

Wow! Way to go lucio! I like how you have added mud guards in the rear. It looks even better than what I have made instructions for. Meanwhile I have finally gotten time to make instructions for the DAF. It has been disassembled and I will update this thread with hourly progress: Edit: Progress after one hour: The first hour has been challenged by crashing MLCad and a parts librabry which was hopelessly out of date for the parts which I'm using. This is all I could manage to build! Edit after 2 hours: Progress this hour was dominated by making the silicone band bend correctly. Edit after 3 hours: Maybe It's just me who has become slow? I have to fix the placement of that part behind the motor! Edit after 4 hours: The frame is finally done! That will be all for tonight.

My old red GBC wheel has been repurposed as a hamster wheel. This was only natural since kids kept referring to the hamsterless wheel as a hamster wheel at LEGO World a some years ago (2011). I really liked the module since it captured balls and mysteriously delivered them somewhere else. However. It was not very interesting for the audience because it was difficult to relate to, and hid the balls from view. Kids who were following a ball around the layout would thus lose interest when the ball came to this module. This upgrade should change this! I go through the details of the module in the video, but here are some additional pictures: Here you can see both the mechanism for pushing balls in from the side, the non-geared XL motor and the water bottle. It is quite exhausting to run, so water is necessary: The inbox is completely standard for GBC and this module should fit into a layout just well: A better picture of the Sarie... hamster: She really likes to run :) The old wheel can be seen in this video at 6:46: Here is a picture of the old wheel for comparison:

It's quite impressive what you have managed to build (There are some mix ups with the URL's, so the pictures don't show well) While you were able to create a full car, this is what I am able to build in an hour: (Excluding the frame) I find your 1 hour challenge a great way to jump into a project. However. The final model needs some readjustments :D

You are welcome. I realized that it is difficult to understand what I am saying while the drum rotates, so I have added closed captions to the video.

Now that's just super cute, and it seems to work extremely well. I have to give you cudos for the legs. I built a running hamster myself yesterday, but I went the easy route and replaced the legs with wheels.

Thanks. I used a home-brew computer program to design the barrel. My first cement truck (the blue one) was drawn by hand, but I'm not as satisfied with the result. Thanks. The reason behind my choice of battery packs is mainly that I only have a single LIPO, while around 40 (or is it 50 now?) 6 x AA packs. You are right. The Lipo will allow for a better looking model since it can be hidden more easily, and I have seen that it holds enough power to drive a model for a couple of hours, which is more than enough. I will see if I can get some more of them as right now I can't even find the one I have!

My MAN TGS 8 x 4 Cement truck has been upgraded from Power Function to SBrick, but rather than killing the old red truck, I made a new Bright Light Orange / Dark Red version with a series of small upgrades: In the video I go through the functionality and compare it to the old version: The truck was finished a couple of weeks ago, but I wanted to improve some details before making a video and posting it here. The most "controversial" change (at least when I it comes to changes which I'm unsure of) is the windscreen. To replace the 12x2x4 windscreen that I'm using in everything with the 12x3x3 does change the whole aesthetics of the truck quite dramatically. The A-pillars might be too massive now, but I have chosen to keep it. For the picture above I have also reduced the angle of the windscreen slightly in order to better fit the A-pillars than shown in the video. Another battle was to use either a single time or details in two plates width to cover the SBrick: I ended up using 2 plates (the gray 1x4 and 2x3 plates under the tiles) which protrudes just a bit too much on the side. Still I like it better than simply using tiles as seen on this earlier version: It doesn't look better, but it looks more realistic (at least in my opinion. It's the same rationale I'm using with the windscreen) And just for fun. Here is the same picture with a slow shutter speed and the barrel rolling: Here is how to program the SBrick for the truck: Here is the old thread for the red truck: BrickShelf gallery, once approved: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=568737 Building instructions to appear once I have made all those I promised for the DAF.

Thanks for all the positive comments! I will start working on the building instructions as soon as work clears up. Do you mean like a hub cab? Yes. I would like to decorate the rear wheels with something, and perhaps some 2x2 round plates and tiles might do. I will see if I can get them in LBG.

This model is now finally in a state where I can present it in its own topic. Thanks a lot to the Eurobricks members who have kept me on my toes to improve this model and get to this result. The truck is a DAF XF FT (4x2) Space Cab and in the classic Model Team scale of 1:25 which I hold so dearly. It has a basic trailer coupling mechanism which allows for an increased amount of detailing in the back compared to my more technical trucks: Inside there is the standard seats, console and steering wheel to give an illusion of a full interior. The Servo motor takes up quite a lot of space in there. Underneath you can see the updated steering mechanism which allows the front axle to be 12 studs wide: Note also the huge blobs of bricks in the sides which help add weight for better grip. The trailer can open the doors in the back: And fits nicely on the truck: But the fun stuff are found underneath: Here the decoupling mechanism works as shown in the video. Notice how the feet of the legs are 1x1 tiles in the photos, but small steering wheels in the video. The 1x1 tiles work well if you have a more precise controller for the truck, such as an SBrick. This project started back in September 2016 where I started researching a truck from a brand which I had not already covered. This was in preparation for a presentation at the AFOL event in Give of 2016. It was time to build a DAF (Sorry Iveco - next time?). The DAF XF FT (4x2) Space Cab was chosen. and I started doing some research. I still use Griddy for making a grid where it's easy to see the scale of things. (A new on-line version of Griddy will be available once I learn to program web apps) After constructing a basic frame from my old Scania (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JC9Cgz70p30) it was time to spend a single hour on prototyping the design in order to kickstart the project: This was the result after roughly one hour: It doesn't look like much, but it was enough to get me started and start focusing on a single section at a time. Here is a better photo of the creation: First up were some new sides: I was not satisfied with the blacked out grille, nor the basic looking headlights. After a day of building I had achieved this: Another day and all I managed to add was some additional parts of the front: Then building started to pick up speed and I almost finished the whole front in just another day: Another day to start on the sides: This is going well :) The sides we connected to the front and I toyed around with various detailings for the side of the cab: It was time to complete the build and see if everything was OK: The verdict? I don't like that top at all. Time to rebuild it! That was more like it. This is the version I brought to the event: At the event I discovered that the coupling-mechanism doesn't work well, so I decided to change it to the one from the helicopter transport: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCEXsbHO78s Other changes include how the battery box in mounted (for easy access), the fuel tanks, the headlights and the top was under constant revisioning. This resulted in the second prototype: Now we are almost there. The rear wheel covers were protruding a bit too much, causing the trailer to dislodge them. This was fixed: You can see the construction yard for the whole process, including the feedback I received from the community during all of this: Brickshelf gallery (once public): http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=567171 Building instructions are on their way.

How about adding a mechanical one-way mechanism like a simple clicker? I use such a mechanism in my helicopter trailer and it works really well: http://c-mt.dk/instructions/instructions.php?model=HelicopterTrailer&page=1 See the next page of the link for how the mechanism is completed.

New projects include stuffing SBricks into many interesting models, but before then I have good news. There was finally sun on a day of a weekend in Denmark. Time to take some pictures! As you can see, I have had time to replace some 1 x 2 slopes with 2 x 2 slopes for fewer lines in the surfaces. Let's take a closeup of that grille and set the brightness all the way up to 11: The license plate has been moved up half a plate in order for the orange/yellow lines to flow better. The new headlight design allows for the upper triangles, which is more true to the original. Notice how the chrome teeth have been stuffed in there. One of them is not even connected to anything! See if you can spot it! :D In the back it is clear to see how the fifth wheel has been pushed a stud backwards in order to not have the wheel wells fall off when coupling on a trailer: The top is also now constructed only using legal building techniques... OK. Almost :) Here I am showing the interior of the cabin: I am not that good a driver, so the truck ended on its nose. Oh dear! But this lets me show you how the steering has been rebuilt in order for the front axle to be 12 studs wide: As you can see, the two "liftarm 5" are strongly connected to the technic pieces in the front. This ensures that there sin't any unwanted suspension action going on. The steering arms use "liftarm 2, half wide" in order to be offset by half a stud, and still hold strong enough onto the cross axles so that the steering doesn't come apart. This will take quite a while to make instructions for, but they are on their way. I also have to process the pictures for the trailer. Stay tuned!

Thanks. It is great to see the mechanism being put to use. Up next will be a scissor lift.

Thanks. I use an XL motor because I had a spare one. The mechanism is super light and the module can run on "half speed" on the 9V train controller. If you throw an M-motor in then I recommend a 1:3 gearing or greater. Otherwise the pump will move too fast for the ball to properly drop into the mechanism.

Argh! LEGO Digital Designer is botching the sequence! I should have expected those shenannigans. Sorry about that. You should put it in at the same time as the red tubes that hold it in place. The motorized wheel in the middle should be put in afterward since it rests on top. Does anyone know how to force LDD to use the same sequence as when you build? If not, then I might have to make LDraw instructions instead. Edit. How on Earth does LDD expect you to put in that part LAST!?

Thanks for the review Siegfried. I agree that it would have been nicer with a more "tight" digger, and perhaps sacrifice the trailer for this. The design of the truck is also very basic. I wonder if they could have made something more interesting if the parts didn't have to be spread on so many micromodels?

Thanks guys. It is a simple design that should be very approachable. As for the height. At events I find tall ball pumps to be a problem because balls are inside of them for too long (often there is a very low rate of balls/second), so kids who follow a particular ball might lose interest once the ball gets into a pump. Mechanically there should be no problem with a taller module.

The pump and anti-jamming mechanism of the Yellow Submarine worked so well that I had to make a module just focusing on these parts: Here are the building instructions: http://c-mt.dk/instructions/lxf/gbc_pump.lxf Here is the thread for the Yellow Submarine module: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/146542-gbc-yellow-submarine/ It is fun making GBC modules. Now I just need a good idea for the next module :)

Thanks for the added details. That is a neat way to incorporate a subtractor mechanism, and we completely agree that adding some actual "technic" to this technic set would have been a nice addition. I'm looking forward to see what you next project mounts out to be.

Here is a final update on the DAF before I move on to updating the trailer and making building instructions. The front axle is now the width that it should be: After driving a bit around I discovered that the distance between the fifth wheel and the cab is on the short side, so I moved the fifth wheel a stud back while improving the rigidity of the whee covers and the rear assembly: I hope for some natural sunlight tomorrow so that I can take some better pictures - and perhaps a video :)

How well does this subtractor work in practice? I recently made a video showing an L-motor driving the subtractor had trouble turning in "rough terrain" (see the 42065 mod topic), but I was using three 8 tooth gears on one side and two 16 teeth gears on the other. This combination has a lot of mechanical power loss. Your design seems significantly lighter, so it might work better.

It might be too expensive. Remember that the servo motor retails for a lot more than the cheapest motor, the M-motor. It will be interesting to see. I recall Remote-Controlled VOLVO L350F Wheel Loader was critizised for the jerky steering caused by the servo motor operating such a heavy model. The difference here, though, is that the Volvo has articulated steering, which furthers that kind of behaviour when turning using the non-servo "aware" standard remote. EDIT I see the spinoff thread got locked down. My comment would have been that the firetruck comparison is really showing for how long LEGO has come since the "dark ages" of early 2000' technic sets.

They are 98585 I have just made a smaller module with only the pump mechanism and found that you can use the more common 41677 ( Technic, Liftarm 1 x 2 Thin ) together with 4185 ( Technic Wedge Belt Wheel (Pulley) ) This pump module is simple and I expect to put up instructions for it soon.

If I should change the visuals of the module, it would be to include brightly colored lines like in the artwork of the film. It was really cool back then :) I'm glad you like the updated pump design. Wear on the 8 tooth gears should be minimal as long as the jams are infrequent. I will know for sure once it has been running for some hours. Meanwhile. Here is a closeup of the mechanism: Color coded: - Green is the initial input shaft. With a direct connection to the XL-motor it can run on speed 1 of a train controller. Use gearings to reduce the speed for higher voltage or faster motors. - Blue is the main pump arm with the "anti-jam" mechanism on one end and the piston consisting of fairly common parts. - Gray are the non-moving parts. Notice how 1x1 round bricks are used to minimize jams when the red section moves back and forth. The 1 x 2 sloped bricks ensure balls don't get stuck in the corners and the horizontal round connecters are used to hold the red part in place. The liftarm 5 (half thickness) separates the incoming and outgoing balls. See the video for how to construct the casing. - The red section must be given enough space to move 2 studs back and forth inside of the model. The smaller transparent pump module is coming up. I just have to get some more parts.

Yeah. It works quite well, even though it is only powered with M-motors. I was a little disappointed with the performance of the differential drive mod, so I substituted the 2 M-motors with 3 L motors :D

Thanks. I have had some trouble using brickshelf these last couple of days, so my work on showing the mechanism has fallen behind. I will post a new video this week detailling the mechanism using a more transparent module.