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Hi to all! waiting to the sun to film the RC Dawnbreaker I've edited and posted an old video that I've made to test my battle bots: crab and scorpion. During the video me and my cousin were talking in italian but don't worry: i've added some subtitles just to translate our wisecracks ;) Some stats about the robots: GRANCHIO (crab) weight: 900g weapons: claws motors: 2 XL(wheels) 2L(claws) strengths: 4x4, can keep the ball weaknesses: (hardly) flippable SCORPIONE(scorpion) weight: 900g weapons: flipping arm motors: 2 M (wheels) 1 L (reloading winch) 1 old 9V (gearbox) strenghts: atomic-like powerful weapon, defensive/offensive weapon weaknesses: hard to control (really), low traction enjoy the video (likes and comments are welcome if you like it ;) ) -
Here's another small creation I spend some time on the past few weeks. A small American truck: I had a few wishes before I made this model. - Had to be 7 studs wide. - Had to use these tires, because they are the only tire size I know of that have good looking "truck (double) wheels" for the rear axles and good looking single tires for the front wheels. - Small fake engine - Maximum steering range possible - Steering controlled from the 5th wheel (why will become obvious later) - Openable doors and interior I got this in the model, though some are not the most pretty. Especially the wheelarches at the front are a bit big. First of all, making the wheel arch a full stud lower would touch the wheels. Lowering it half a stud is something I didn't even really look into, because I am getting pretty tired of the "half stud issue" that plagues pretty much all my models The rear part of the wheelarch is that far behind the wheel due to the steering mechanism. There is space to move it 1 stud closer to the front wheel, but I wouldn't know how to fix it in place while still keeping room for the steering rack. Considering I have alot of "old Technic" parts I used some vintage steering solutions for this model combined with modern parts. On the other hand though I do kind of like this wheelarch, because it reminds me of the wheelarches of old cars I could have settled for a smaller steering angle, but I didn't want to. I also had to keep the steering solution low due to the fake L4 engine above it A known concept for a small engine that I crammed in here. The hood is open for 2 reasons: I like to see stuff moving and because the hood would otherwise be too high for the model. I tried to mimic a curved top on the hood by have it go from 2 to 3 studs. I did have a desire to make a openable hood, but I couldn't figure out a way to make that structurally sound. Openable doors and an interior. The chairs are actually linked to the red triangular half liftarms on the outside keeping them (and the chairs) at that angle. The belly shot, which also provides another look at the steering That 8T gear is actually connected to a 16T idler gear on the steering axle to transfer it to another 8T gear going to the L4 engine. The truck is only driven from the 2 left rear wheels, since I can't fit a diff in this scale I figured this was the next best thing to still keep a nice steering angle. As you can see the outer ring of the small turntable, the "5th wheel", is connected to a black bevel gear which controls the steering. The reason for the axle in the centre of the small turntable is for the trailer. The trailer is a loaded with liftarms, that's partially because I only had 2x 3x11 panels from my 42029 and because of the white line on the truck which I continued on the trailer. The white line on the truck was actually an afterthought. The truck was completely red before, but that looked rather dull imo so messing around with some lines I decided this pattern on the truck was a nice break from all the red. This isn't just a trailer. This is a trailer that gives the truck RC possibilties. This was another wish I had for the model. I wanted to build a truck that was a non PF model on its own, yet had the option of being remote controlled with a trailer. The small turntable was an obvious choice for me because with that the truck on its own looks like it has a pretty decent looking 5th wheel which also allows to be used as a control to steer the vehicle. It also allowed me to have 2 functions (drive and steer) crammed into one spot on the model. I didn't want to see universal joints at the rear of the trailer going to the truck for steering, because that has been done and I don't like the look of that, so it had to go through the 5th wheel. The black bevel gear at the front of the trailer is to secure the steering of the 8T gear. Of course the trailer turns as well, but since steering is done with a M motor you're basically "re-adjusting" steering every step of the turn. The length of the trailer is based on what "felt right". This meant that I had plenty of space in the trailer for all the stuff. I got pretty lazy and just used some universal joints to link the motors I also made a very small video of the model (battery of phone ran out ) I couldn't make a video of the model going in reverse. It does some gear grinding then. Something I can't seem to really fix, because Lego decided to make a square hole in the small turntable instead of a round one, which I could have used to secure that drive axle on the 2.5 stud high rear chassis some more. Considering I don't like driving it in reverse anyway (I am not a master of turning with a trailer ), I am just going to leave it. -
Here's a creation I put together in a couple of evenings after Wall-E to enter in a trial contest at a LUG meeting: The contest had a few rules: - Use the 62.4 Lego tires (which do look a little small for the height on this model) - Make it 17-20 studs wide - Use 1 IR reciever - Use 1 or 2 motors for drive - 1 motor for steering Everything else was pretty much free game. It features quite a load of "stolen" ideas: - Zblj's little portal hubs (thanks for that nice idea, though I should brace them more since they can get seperated a little under force as I found out at the trial) - Snipe's limited slip diffs with rubber bands (though obviously more people used this idea, I am not sure who used it "first", I only know I saw Snipe's post first. Either way: thanks) - TLG's 9398 steering setup (which I only made a little smaller) While I know diffs aren't a good idea on trial trucks, I refused to have no diffs in my model. So I looked at other options, came across something called "torsen diffs" but I couldn't fit them in a 20 stud wide vehicle with portal hubs (21 is the best I got). Then I came across this idea for a sort of limited slip diff, which worked pretty well at the trial. You can also see the steering axle has some free play (and 2 bevel gears) so the steering would still work when the suspension is at an angle. On a rare occassion, under force the bevel gears would skip on the gear rack since on the other end are 2 universal joints, so bracing isn't the best at it could be. Also given the fact that due to the suspension the steering axle's range of motion isn't even fully utilized I could have probably braced it in the given space, but I didn't find out until the trial that this actually needed some better bracing Trying to keep the weight low and balanced I learned that a battery loaded AAA battery box is about equal in weight to a XL motor and servo motor. So having the 2 motors on one side and the battery box on the other seemed like a good idea.The XL motor ended up with a gear reduction of 1:7. Which means it certainly isn't the fastest, but it runs up a steep hill until it would simply fall on his back before gears would grind. Gears did grind however at the trial, but that was partially due to lack of skill from the driver and especailly one very annoying (yet awesome, because it proved to be the most challenging) obstacle After I had a functional chassis, I pretty much slammed a body on top of that with a little interior. I didn't have much time left before the meeting to make it really fancy. In hindsight I would have probably made it a little bit lower and cover more of the chassis, but I still think it turned out all right The guy who organized the trial at the meeting said we had to keep a space open on the model for a 2x4 tile. He made these nice 2x4 tiles with a custom print. Of course you would like a video, but at home I don't have much obstacles suited for "trial". However at the meeting, the guy who organized it made a video, but he hasn't released it yet. I hope to see it soon so I can link it here
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HZ 2041 (in fact HŽ 2041, as "Hrvatske željeznice", Croatian Railroads) or Djuran (Đuran) Train Engine as a nick name is diesel-electric engine dating from early 1960 from Croatian Đuro Đaković Factory and Franch Brissonneau et Lotz (registered in former YU as JŽ 642). According to data from www.zeljeznice.net, today there are 28 working engines in Croatia in two colors: red and blue. This is a model of red Djuran: ( http://www.bricksafe...an/DSC06438.JPG in high resolution) ...and this is a photo of the working (real) one captured in summer 2014 by Laurus (http://www.zeljeznice.net/forum/index.php?/topic/11180-hz-2041-jz-642-dhuran/page-13; photo published with permission of the author): Model is fully working powered by standard Lego 88002 motor and PF with working lights in the front and in the back of the engine. Djuran is mostly used as cargo train engine and for that reason (and for more fun for grandchildren, as well) this model is accompanied with five boxcars in the same color scheme. Hope you like it. Comments and suggestions appreciated Some more photos with one not very perfect video follow. (hi-res: http://www.bricksafe...an/DSC06437.JPG) (hi-res: http://www.bricksafe...an/DSC06433.JPG) (http://www.bricksafe...an/DSC06441.JPG) And the short video of cargo train:
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18 Volt Drill Master LEGO conversion [WIP] BY Boxerlego Introduction Hi, This is my latest LEGO custom motor project but its not the only one I'm working on I just bought this 18v drill today for the intention of modifying it for LEGO use. My previous drill motor project I only modify an old 18V drill motor to fit with LEGO but this time around I've a new 18V drill motor with a fresh 18 volt battery pack and I'm going to try to fit with LEGO. The nice thing about this is I got that power drill with an 18v battery pack along with charger for a great deal of $16, the original sale price was $35. My first 18v drill motor project had tons of problems to over come and for a long time at first the motor was not even able to be power with LEGO 9V PF system. This was a major problem for me and ultimately I didn't quite know enough on how to drive a DC motors with electronics. So I moved on to my next motor project which was a stepper motor and was more efficient that it could be driven with the LEGO V1 PF system. This was a good step up but it wasn't quite as powerful as the drill motor can be. It didn't take long for me to figure out how to drive a motor with electronics, there are lots of good YouTube videos out there that got me started but ultimately how to properly drive this 18v drill motor with LEGO was still far from perfect. My first motor driver had several mistakes however LEGO was able to still make it work but still those problems needed to be understood and corrected so I can make improvements and make it work better. I will spare all the details here and I will just say that in 2014 I learned tons about how to properly drive motors and more efficiently. Which brings me to my other motor project the upgraded XL motor I'm working on, which is reaching the final stages and that is building the motor driver. This motor driver here for the XL motor MOD is absolutely the best one I made yet. You wont believe what I was able to with this motor driver or maybe you will . I will just say that this motor driver here I made works from the regular 7-9 volts the LEGO Battery box can supply but however the XL motor mod has a switching DC power supply that can step up the 7-9 volts from the battery box to 12 volts for this XL motor mod to work off of. Overall this topic will mainly be about the 18v drill motor LEGO conversion so to start it off I want to show a video time line of some my previous projects with my first drill motor. Video Time Line Think this is either going to work or not please feel free to comment on the matter. I hope everything works out well -
I am getting close to the end of this long term build and it's time to share some pictures and a bit of the story. Even before I had finished putting together 10231, I decided I wanted a Crawler to go with it. Being a Technic fan it had to at least drive around and lift the launch platform and shuttle. Those two basic goals spawned a project that has lasted a little over 2 years so far. Some ideas have stuck around since their inception, others were a bit optimistic (like building a peristaltic pump and hoping I could find a way to control the pneumatics hydraulically). February this year marked the 50th anniversary of when the two crawlers went into service, so recently there has been extra motivation to finish. The base equipment; - 16x M-motors (drive) - 4x L-motors (pneumatic jacking and leveling) - 4x IR Receivers (V1 as the V2s do not like driving multiple m-motors on a single channel) - 4x NXT servo motors (steering) - 4x RCX rotation sensors (measuring jacking level between truck and chassis) - 2x NXT bricks (one master and one slave. The master communicates with the Android Tablet and coordinates itself with the slave. Programmed in LeJOS) - 1x PF IR-Link sensor (link between master NXT and all PF motors) - 2x PF Battery boxes (with thermal overload removed) - 1x Android Tablet Future add-ons - Accelerometer (automatically detect the crawler is on a gradient and adjust the leveling to suit) Bricksafe folder is here: http://www.bricksafe.com/pages/OzShan/Crawler Firstly, a couple of my favorite reference pictures; The build itself started with the trucks, thinking that the pneumatics and LAs would dictate the scale. First proof of concept - build a coupling to give height, pitch, roll and yaw to the truck. The pneumatics need to be on their own gimbals too. The reinforced 2x2 rounds slide and rotate in the 4x4 macaroni's. It is on the limit of what will hold together without glue, but it does hold. The two 1x2 technic bricks at the base of the 2x2 column are helped a little by a string (not pictured) which runs up through the 2x2 rounds with the axle. Initial prototype of the drivetrain. I would have liked a higher ratio but there was just no room at this scale. When the gearbox was married with the truck chassis I had to juggle positions, so you will see in later pics the crown gears are facing in not out Best laid plans.... Marry studded and studless they said. It will be easy they said... Showing what will eventually be the steering between chassis and truck. The guide tube and pneumatic cylinders are all on gimbals with the pneumatics coupled together. The average height is preserved during any tilting. With prototypes sorted, it's time to bricklink some parts and quieten down the colour scheme! (thank you 42030 for providing 5L thin liftarms with axle hole in LBG color) You can see the relationship between "guide tube" and cylinders here. The pneumatic system was overhauled too many times to remember but this is what it arrived at. It is all controlled by the direction of the motor. Running forwards drives the pump. When running backwards, the lobes operate the pneumatic valves in series, letting small amounts of air escape each rotation. This lowers the chassis in a slow and controlled manner. The motor can be turned on or off and run in either direction at any time due to the valve timing. Early attempts with PF Servo and NXT servo just couldn't park the valve reliably and after a few operations I would hear a slow leak. I have been trying to keep up with the LDD but it's hard to stay motivated when I know I'm just going to have to suck it up and move over to LDraw if I want to include all the motors, pneumatics and LAs Works so far; (I'll make the files available if anybody would like them). I found LDD essential in the early days to plan ahead and simply find parts, but later on the build overtook it. Original 'box' pump. 1x PF XL motor, 4x 6L pumps running at 90 deg to each other. Very smooth but bulky. Flatter attempt in the same vein. The truck itself. The final design for the height control modules. I hope you enjoy the build so far. More pictures to come of chassis, steering, leveling and interior details. I'll leave it to others to decide what 'theme' it belongs to . -
Hello everyone It’s good to have some spare time but better that sitting on the couch is to present one of my last MOCs – Front Loaded Garbage Truck. The truck was made almost three months ago (but I done it from scratch in 8 days!) for our local LUG contest. The goal was to made something up to 2000 pieces and maximum of 4 engines. I thought that front loaded garbage truck could be a nice playable model and I haven’t seen much of them made from Lego. The truck of course fit to rules so it has a four remote functions like: - driving and steering - lifting arms - moving front forks In addition to electric functions there are two pneumatic (with manual pump) – dumping the whole body and opening tailgate. If you want more accurate specification: Weight: 1700g Dimensions: 19 studs wide, 22 studs high, 53 studs long (15.2x17.6x42.4cm) Parts: almost 1900 The truck is designed to emptying big waste bins. Whole process don’t take much time. Lifting functions are motorized so you don’t have to even touch a truck to dump wastes into body. Lifting the arms are operated by L motor connected to two big linear actuators. For moving forks I used a M motor and built a long shaft through arm to connect small LA’s. Each small linear actuator is driven by 6 universal joints. Maybe it don’t sound good but I have to say that everything works fast and fine. First you have to do is drive up to waste bin. Then lift it above body using arms. Meanwhile flap mounted on top of body opens itself and then you roll over waste bin with front forks. When bin is empty simply lower arms and put it onto ground. For driving I used XL motor with total gear reduction 1:1.4 That ratio gives you an opportunity to push truck by hand (and engine will turn). Steering is simply operated by PF Servo. As I said at the beginning there are two pneumatic functions. For opening tailgate I used one small pneumatic cylinder and for lifting body – two big cylinders. Lowering body and tailgate is done by gravity – there is no need to use air pressure. For more playability I made two waste bins – green and red. Maybe this is not a masterpiece but it had to be light. So what say more? I think that movie will say everything that possibly I forgot to write :) -
Hi to all! Proud to present you my latest MOC… ops, sorry, my latest MOD! First I have to thank MajklSpajkl that made an awesome MOC, but he has also made my work possible, so I decided to put some link to his creation: original topic, (where you can find instructions)second here is my MOD: important pieces I've add: -lipo BB (same size of the AAA one) -M motor -L motor -receiver -16M axle (EDIT ) -yellow shocks -U-joint I built this in more or less 30 minutes but it is a really funny creation! is has also a particular return-to-center steering based on an old force: GRAVITY! how it works it is simple (hope I can explain it as simple as it is ahaha): the car has an high caster angle, this angle auto-center the wheels while running forward, I've put the M motor directly linked to the steering 5,5 axle and it works well! in fact when the motor move the steering it forces the mechanism so when you release the command this elastic force make the motor turning back more or less at the center, it is not important that it is perfectly centered, because the high play of the steering make the caster angle center it with more accuracy :3 here are some photos (it has different colors because i've not built it from the two original set)
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Just start this topic with a picture, it is full of hint about how I want To build my MOC (and I hope i success) What are them? :D
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Presenting my hi-rail exacavator. It is a fun little creation I put together for an upcoming LUG meeting at train themed brewery. It is driven by the rubber tires mounted to a PF train motor. The battery box and IR receiver are located in the high side gondola. It is made to stand up to children playing with it. I got the inspiration from a picture of the LEGO display at LEGO World. A designer took the 4203 set and put it on rails. I don't think he/she used a train motor since his/her wheels are spaced much further apart. He/she also used a box car with draw bar. I think a gondola would make more sense to pair with an excavator to dump material into. Hi-rail Excavator by dr_spock_888, on Flickr Here it is running on some tracks: I morphed it from this originally:
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Recently, I came across an idea, originally by Leo Dorst, on a method to make a crossover track with standard Lego pieces. Seeing as original crossover tracks are rather expensive on Bricklink, and there is no real equivalent in terms of current Power Functions track parts, such a thing might be useful. His original sketches: From these pictures, it was fairly easy to recreate in LDD, then translate into real bricks. But, there was a problem. As it is, this design does not align with the geometry of the existing Lego track. But, the solution was fairly simple, which was to extend the cross 4 studs in every direction, as seen in my rendition. Now, the cross has exactly the same dimensions as the original, and can be used exactly the same way. All that was left to do was test it. I created a figure 8 shape using the pieces I had, and made a simple train run with Power Functions. It worked, although there are some traction problems when the engine is being started in the crossing. But, it is not a big problem, and it could be remedied by putting rubber bands on the PF train wheels for extra traction. .LXF file:http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/saberwing2/Ideas/LeoDorst/rail_crossing.lxf I hope you all find this useful, especially those of you who don't want to use the other method, which involves cutting up parts.
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Here's my work in progress for the Sbrick contest. The plan to build this was actually before the contest was announced, but I didn't actually start building until januari, just had a rough draft in my head until then. I usuallly don't post WIP stuff, but since I solved the problems I had with this build (and there were many, but more on that later), I feel confident enough to post a little about it. It has the following functions: 2x L motor for drive (and steering obviously ) 2x M motor for the arms The M motors will also fulfill another role, but I am keeping that as a surprise for now. I tried to "hide" the 2 IR recievers in Wall-E's front. He has a display there too where the black tops of the recievers pop, though it isn't as wide as this and the battery meter suffered a little because of it. Of course with an Sbrick you can make a proper display, but I think this works pretty well for a purist As you can see I still need to make a neck and a head, but the groundwork inside is ready to build that so I don't expect much problems with it (yes, I totally jinxed myself). Also, the white wheels in the tracks are temporary. I ordered grey ones from BL, which already shipped and I hope to recieve them some time next week. A little glimpse of the insides: You can also see Jeroen Ottens' awesome little microphones. Why did I used those? The regular ball pins or balls with axle would touch and block each other if both M motors run, these do not. Besides cramming in 1 batterybox, 2 IR recievers, 2 L motors and 2 M Motors I also used a gearbox based on this principle: I found this type of gearbox while looking around on the web trying to figure out what would be cool (and compact) to use in my model. No need for me to come up with my own gearbox when there are so many good ones online after all I chose this one because it meant I could always control 5-6 functions without knowing which gear was selected in the gearbox, which adds to the playability imo. I am aware there alot of Lego Wall-E's out there, ALOT. I know, I saw most of them when looking around And of course the Lego Ideas Wall-E that is incoming. Though that guy needs to explain to me how 5L tracks fit in a 10L wide body when Wall-E wants to transform into a box. I do think however I made a Wall-E that's different than most, for the simple reason it is build 90-95% from studless Technic. All others either have Technic bricks combined with Sytem bricks or are build from System bricks. It wasn't a goal to design a studless Wall-E though, it just came to be during the build and I tried to solve stuff as much as possible with studless Technic since then while still looking clean. Though I am unsure if this studless approach works for the hands, perhaps I should make them from System bricks. The hands do function like Wall-E's real hands though and can be set in fixed positions thanks to friction pins and 3L axles with stop. For the top cover I didn't want to add another layer of liftarms since it felt "too high" for the scale of the model, but I couldn't used thin liftarms either unless I wanted a swiss cheese look for the top, so I went with Syetem tiles to provide a clean smooth top. I actually wanted to make a transforming Wall-E but still have drive and moveable arms and whatnot, but I simply can't build that at this scale (*looks at all that PF blocking the places where the tracks and head would need to go in to be a Wall-E box*). Speaking of scale, I took a little bit of liberty with that. Simple example: 5L tracks, 13L wide body. Which makes technical sense to me when looking at his transformation in the movie (I watched it again for "research" before I actually started this build ). 13L wide body means 1L for the sides and 1L for inbetween the 5L tracks, those spaces are there in the movie so they are there in my model. I also wanted the rear wheels in the tracks to be a little bigger. I even considered Unimog rims, but those don't play nice with tracks. I am open for suggestions for bigger rims that play nice with tracks, though I do consider these to be ok (hence why I ordered them in grey ). Fun fact: every (and I mean EVERY!) part has been at least rebuild two times. I think I even took the rear cover apart about 8 times, the centre 3 times, arm mechanisms 4 times, tracks have been rebuild 4 times. Though the last track revision was simply to scale it up with bigger rear rims, since I had smaller ones in there first which looked too small with the rest of the model. All other revisions were basically reinforcing the structure to prevent any gear slips. I solved the last of those gear slips today and the model is very rigid now and works perfectly. Sorry for the quality of the pictures, it's dark outside Hope you guys like it so far. More to come.
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Hello This creation isn't that new anymore, however after publishing pictures on brickshelf and flickr, I think it's time to present this train here in this forum. The prototype was the RAe TEE II 1053 which is today a historic train and was used on the TEE-Network some decades ago. The train consists of 6 cars: two cab cars, two coach cars, a dining car and a motor car. This train only had first class seats and was (or maybe still is) one of the most luxurious trains of the swiss federal railway SBB. The four passenger cars in my model have each 13 seats, in the dining car there is enough place for eight passengers. The passenger cars have gender seperated toilets, the women toilet even featured a make-up table. I tried to make it look like theres a mirror in this toilet room, since there is very limited space on creating something like that. Well, now let's continue with the pictures. Cab car by StefanEris, on Flickr Cab car front by StefanEris, on Flickr Toilet by StefanEris, on Flickr Dining car interior by StefanEris, on Flickr The whole train by StefanEris, on Flickr And here is a picture of the real train: RAe TEE II in Zurich by StefanEris, on Flickr The front of the train was quite a challenge to build and I still want to make some improvements, however the parts I need don't exist (yet) in dark red. There are more pictures on flickr if you are intersted. I also have a video there:https://www.flickr.c...157633185923370 Thanks for looking and reading, critics and comments are welcome! Regards Stefan
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Howdy folks :) With the help of my children, I got back to Lego about a year ago, started to buy massively and then found my true purpose in life, Technic! ROLUG was a great help to me and I began to build various cars for local TT contests, then I found Eurobricks and I participated in the Bionicle contest, as well. Now, I consider myself a newbie in Technic and I mostly adapt existing models to my liking, but since recently I started to build my own MOCs from scratch. What I want to show you guys is my latest creation, an arctic exploration vehicle based on the famous Thunderbirds show, namely The Mole, in my own interpretation. This is my 2nd attempt at this, my first was ok for showing-off but could not actually move well on snow (lol), so now I am rebuilding it, with performance in mind. I am basically building a high-profile tank with a huge drill in the front and another cool function which I prefer to keep secret, until it's working as I want. My personal goal is to drive it head on into a snow bank and to pass through it like butter! (we can all dream, no?) See the photos below and let me know what you think. Any suggestion or comment is welcomed, thank you all for watching. If you are curious to see more photos and also what I have built so far, feel free to head over to my Flickr page. Enjoy :) https://www.flickr.c...th/16439896211/
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Hello everybody, Here's my modification of the B-model of the 42042 crawler crane. It has power functions with remote control. The motors are used for slewing, moving the trolley and for hoisting/lowering the hook. the base is still provisional, also the hook and the hoisting wire still have to be added. as it turned out the crane has a good weight balance, it stays upright even with the the batterybox removed. Later I'll upload a video and I'll do a load test. The spring is used to keep the tension on the trolley wire, the trolley itsel is a little bit colour vomit, but I lack the correct parts And the last photo, together with the the modification of the A-model of the 42042 I hope you enjoyed it, feel free to comment -
This is my entry for the Rebrick competition. Essentially, it is a mashup of the 911 Targa and 918 Spyder (the 914.5 is the average of the two model numbers). It is built to 1:10 scale. Back in 2011, there were rumours of Porsche introducing a model between the 911 and 918 Spyder (one website did joke about calling it the 914.5), but such a model hasn't yet been manufactured (although it is being developed as the Porsche 960). The model is roughly 1:10 scale at about 58 studs long, 25 wide (27 including mirrors) and 16 high with 68.8x36mm wheels. Please bear in mind that I am a relatively inexperienced builder having only been building for 2 years and with only a few thousand parts to hand - by the end, I had completely run out of light grey parts. I went for function over form - while I am good with making ultra-compact mechanical systems such as gearboxes and suspended axles, bodywork isn't really my strong point. Sorry that the video is a little shaky - looking into getting better video equipment. Please watch it - you'll get to see the internal workings right down to the core! I haven't provided many pictures here because the detailed stuff is in the video. This is the FULL video (>1min) - the video I submitted to the Rebrick competition is a cut-down unlisted version of this. A full list of functions: Flat-6 piston engine in rear, driving rear axle. 8-speed paddle-shifting gearbox (sequential) for the piston engine. PF Large motor driving the front (no gearbox, just like the 918). Unfortunately, I don't have any IR components other than MINDSTORMS, so it isn't RC. Full independent suspension with non-zero camber and castor angles (I think it also has kingpin inclination - not sure about that). Steering wheel operates 4-wheel steering. The knobs on the front (black 12-tooth gears) and rear (hidden, accessible through rear window) control the suspension's ride height. Each wheel has its own control, so it is possible to make the car lean to one side (might be useful for oval racing). Two seats in the front with opening doors. Retractable rear wing. Folding targa-style roof. I also made a few custom stickers for this model (unprofessionally of course - just printed them out on paper). The Porsche logo is on the front, the steering wheel and the wheel hubs. The rear air intake slits (911-style) are also done with a sticker. I added the Porsche brand name and a fake model name on the back. The "Spy" and "Targ" bits were edited out of the actual "Spyder" and "Targa" logos; the "914.5" was done from scratch. The number plates aren't my own - you may recognise them from the 42043 set. You can probably tell that I lacked good headlight pieces even after searching though my dust-filled System brick collection. The best I could find were white 24-tooth clutch gears - I guess that gives it a hardcore-TECHNIC feel. Thanks for reading :D! -
Hi All. I want introduce You our project. It's Lego Led kit prepared to 42043 Mercedes Actros, just watch what the result is and what I will introduce: As You can see it's controlled by LEGO Power Functions IR Remote Control (item no. 8885). It's supplied by Lego PF Battery Box. There are used two channels, 1ch is used for driving, lights will turn on automatic. 4ch is used to turn on and off programmed Led lights. First I will explain what is happen when you modify your model to be driving by lego PF. 1CHANNEL: When You first time move Your model the parking lights turn on automatic. 1. If You want to turn on right side You have just tu move control button right up to blinked for right. After You turn it blink 3 times and turn off automatic. For the left is, right channel down. 2. For moving forward You move left control button up, when leave it stop lights will turn on for few seconds (imitation car brake) 3. For moving backwards You move left control button down, reversing lights turn on, when leave it stop lights will turn on for few seconds (imitation car brake) 4 CHANNEL: 1. First time left control button up: Parking lights on; Second time left up: Xenon headlights on; Third time left up: Xenon headlights off; Next time: Xenon headlights on (program is running in loop until reset all 4th function) 2. First time left control button down: Beacon lights 1 program; Second time left down: Beacon lights 2 program; Third time left down: Beacon lights 3 program; Fourth time left up: Beacon lights 4 program; Fifth time left down: Beacon lights off; Next time left down: Beacon lights 1 program (program is running in loop until reset all 4th function) 3. First time right control button up: Hazard lights on: Second time right up: Hazard lights off; Next time: Hazard lights on (program is running in loop until reset all 4th function) 4. One time right down: ALL RESET. This is just my idea about what channel, which control button is responsible for some functions. It could be programmed differently, it depends on our mind :D It's not finished, We have to put it in small box, finish the connectors and produce some parts like PF connector. Remember it is IR so the range is not long. Sorry if I made some English Mistakes.
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HI to all! the video itself explain all I want to say about the difference between the same ratio obtained with worm gears or with normal gears, the first are really useful in lego and allow to build really particular stuff, but.. they have a lot of friction. i was really surprised from how much difference there is in the power output of the two mechanism, and it is directly proportional to the force the system has to generate: i test them with an !kg weight, and while my version works fine, the worm geared-one fail to lift it! thank you for watching, hope that this video will help someone of you to make better mocs!
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Hi to everybody! It's been a while from my last MOC...a year and 1 day to be precise ..well, how some of you already knew, the last year I bought and refurbished a home and that involved much of my free time. Now that the home is almost finished (I doubt that it ever will), a baby is coming ...that's mean that I'm planning to do instructions, but I don't know when. Now, that's my new MOC. It's a Dump truck 8x8. The scale is about 1:11. It was inspired by the Iveco Trakker (more than anything else to derive the dimensions), but the front grid ended to be more a beheaded batman logo. It's 8 wheels drive, moved by 4XL Motors connected to the wheels via a driveline, it has a differential per axle. 2 XL Motors drive the 1st and the 2nd axle and the other 2 drive the 3rd and 4th axles. This allow to have a virtual central diff and stress a bit less the drivetrain since the torque is splitted. A fake 6-inline engine is connected to the driveline of the 1st and 2nd axles. The 1st and the 2nd are steering axles via 2 PF Servo motors (one for each axle), with different turning radius and working steering wheel. The suspensions system consists in 4 live axles. Shock absorbers for the 1st and 2nd axles, with an anti-roll bar for the 1st axle, leaf springs for the 3rd and 4th. The Pneumatic system consists in 2 small pump driven by an L motor, that provide compressed air for tilting the cab, elevate the bed and to an hypothetical trailer. The lightening system consist in 4 PF Led, 2 in the front and 2 in the back for the headlights (and 2 extension wires). In the back there is a connector where is possible to connect lights of a trailer. There is even a winch in the front moved by an L Motor. It uses 2 SBrick that control everything, with the exeption of tilting the cab and providing compressed air to the trailer, that are actuated manually. It has openable doors (manually) that allow access to detailed interiors of the cab and it has a trailer coupling. The truck itself is built to be a base for several future MOC/MOD. In fact, tipping bed system a part, everything is contained in the chassis or in the side tanks. Weight and dimensions: Length: 93 studs (74.4 cm) Width: 29 studs (23.2 cm) (without mirrors) Height: 42 studs (33.6 cm) (without antennas) Weight: 6 Kg PF elements: 4 XL Motors for drive. 3 Servo Motors, 2 for steering and 1 for the tipping bed pneumatic valve. 2 L Motors, 1 for the pneumatic pump and 1 for the winch. 4 Led, 2 in the front and 2 in the back. 2 Li-Po battery. 2 SBrick. 4 20cm extension cables. 1 50cm extension cables. Pneumatic elements: 3 new long pneumatic cylinders 2 new small pneumatic pumps 3 pneumatic valves 2 M pneumatic cylinders A video is coming soon For more pics see: https://www.flickr.c...157667401525315 I hope you like it! -
Hello! mocers, I'm back! i just success to it this video I recorded this summer, it is a tournament with three middleweight BOT, you'll find the stats on the first part of the video, but here there is the brickshelf folder if you want to see more pictures of them, enjoy the video and thanks for watching! just some oddity: (ALERT:watch the video first!) BOB (originally named BOBCAT) was built (and driven) by my cousin, he loves to make simple but adamant and overpowered bot and (as said by some info at the end of the video) they are really effective in a sumo arena RIBALTOLANDO was the jocker robot, built by me, but drive by my cousin against SCORPIONE (tracked scorpion) it was a real challenge to build an invertible bot, but it should be really hard to defeat in a real arena (not in a sumo one) its strengths are all visible in the fight against BOB (maybe because I was driving it... hem hem ) SCORPIONE CINGOLATO is the evolved version of wheeled scorpion, but it ends like all my sophisticated bots, it is beautiful and really powerful but not too much realiable. Its main problem is the thermal cut-off of my lipo BB that is a little bit damaged and so the robot stops sometimes when reloading the weapon while tracks are running PS: this video is one of my first on youtube and i changed editor (from iMovie to light works) so due to some difficulties i deleted the whole original audio and replaced it with songs, hope the final work is something good
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Hello all! It's been a while, I posted here anything, but now I'll try to upload my works more recently. I start with this Unimog 401, which is the oldest Unimog with Merecdes-Benz star. This one has also an "Ochsenkopf" (ox head) in the hood, which was later removed in the next generations. The building time took about 2 weeks at all, and this is my first model which got the special dark green color, to get close to the original's painting. I ordered several types of these bricks, more models will come in this color. I chosed for building the 1:7 scale, with the 108 mm RC4WD rock crusher XT wheels. They aren't Lego, but as far as I can see nowadays it's normal in tyres, and the look is better imho with these. Goals: Llooking and working authentically, as close as possible to the real thing, beside of off-road capabilities and remote control. Main functions: Motorized: driving, steering, gear change Automatic: steering wheel, piston engine, PTO in front and rear Manual functions: openable hood, doors, rear side Working: One Lego PF L motor drives, one M steers. The 2 speed linear gearbox is operated by a M motor. Steering wheel and suspension also works. The original has rigid axles with torque tubes, so I chosed also them. Four of 8466's springs were taken apart, so I got 4 coil springs to get the authentical look in machinery of axles. I also attached differential imitating disks. The rear view mirrors work a little. One L motor drives the whole thing, it's sliding in two axles, because of the 2 speed (1:3 and 1:1 ratios) linear gearbox. This way there is no need for driveshaft length adjuster between the driving motor, and the incoming axle of the gearbox, but the rear PTO has one from 6 holed pulleys. There is a PTO also in the front with a pulley, like in the original. The working L4 piston engine has mini pistons from 2L axles and half bushes. Details: I wanted to build as details as possible both inside and outside, like: detailed interior, steering wheel, stickers (for instruments too), gear change levers in the cab, handbrake lever, mudguards seen from inside, fuel tank, number plates, lights, seats, rear wood cover, detailed engine room, tanks for brake, exhaust, etc. Pictures I made it in the winter season, that's why you can see snow as background: https://www.flickr.c...157667176594155 http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=563725 With dark green wheel covers: There are anti-roll bars to prevent rolling, the vertical 6L links connect them with the axles: The diff imitators: Of course I made a video, too: Hope you like it. -
Hi guys, I have been trying to make some trains (generally diesel) and a problem that I have always found is powering. for a steam locomotive this is usually pretty simple because of the lack of articulation but wel, bogies are articulated and motors are mounted in the build itself. my question was, how does gearing react to this? and what is the handiest for compact solutions? vertical or horizontal? with vertical you get this: lego 6L train bogie by alterlegotechnic, on Flickr how could something like this be used in a locomotive? would the motor stick loosely in the chassis and what about a vertical motor like this (http://www.brickshel...16/cam06194.jpg) will there happen something in corners? like that the would go faster or some? and with Horizontal you get this Iowa Pacific SLRG 515/518 Mechanics by wildchicken_13, on Flickr how can gearing do this? i mean the rotating bogie, what happens to the gears in it? obviously could 2 M motors be needed for a small train (around 4 cars) or will it fail? I heard something about a V2 receiver? I have a V1 (I think) and that a normal one won't be able to give enough power to both? What is better? XL or M? when will a XL be needed? so in one sentence: vertical or horizontal? what happens to gearing and what is easier when using normal motors?
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Hi all! I finished this build yesterday, and am quite happy with the resulting model, so I took it out for some pictures today. Unfortunately the batteries in the model died out before I had a chance to film it, so I'll have to do that tomorrow (feel like I need to prove that all the functions actually do work on this one ) So here it is, the Tow Truck Mk II, a combination of a European truck with a typically American "rotator crane"(??) on the back (a Eurotator?) First some information regarding this MOC (of course, you don't have to read it ) As many of you might know, I built a pneumatic tow truck/recovery truck roughly two years ago, and a lot of you even seemed to like that model! When I finished that model, I wanted to make an RC PF version with the same functions and body, and I also wanted to make one powered by just one motor, with function switching gearboxes as the ones you see in most of the official non-RC PF sets released by TLG. Well, it only took about to years to get around to actually doing it! Due to the fundamentally different techniques building with pneumatics vs mechanical functions, some compromises had to be made, and some features could even be added! Firstly, this model has no suspension. The back of the model is pretty densely packed with axles and gears and functions, so fitting live axle suspension while maintaining a somewhat acceptable overall rigidity in the model was deemed impossible (for me) very early on. Also, du to the various functions going to the front, suspension there was not worth it either. Secondly, the swing-out outriggers of the original model from 2013 needed to be unnecessarily complicated, bulky, and not very strong, so I opted for an alternative solution. However, I did manage to make the fourth axle steered, something the 2013 model did not feature As you can see, it uses the genreal colour scheme and a lot of the stickered pieces from 8109. The model was initially all yellow, like the last one, but I wanted to spice things up a little, and am very happy with the resulting colours Okay, enough babbling, here are a couple of more pictures: In the above picture, everything is deployed/opened. The motorized functions are: 1. Tiltable cabin (small LA) 2. Front stabilizers/outriggers (small LAs) 3. Front winch 4. Middle outriggers (worm drives, self locking geometry) 5. Rear stabilizers/outriggers (small LAs) 6. Wheel lift elevation (small LAs) 7. Wheel lift extending (large LA) 8. Wheel lift tilting (small LA) 9. Crane rotation (worm drive) 10. Crane lifting (large LA) 11. Crane boom extending (worm drive/z8 gear/gear racks) 12. Crane winch Other features are: -Openable doors -Working V8 engine -Openable side- and rear panels (to access battery box, as well as some chains and attachments for the towing fork) -Proportional steering with Ackermann geometry on axles 1, 2 and 3. The crane superstructure has two gearboxes for the three functions up there. That means there is a constantly running single axle going through the turntable, and the cranes functions are selected up top. This allows for infinite rotation, with none of the cranes' functions being affected. Yeah, I know that bull barmight be ever so slightly overkill, but IMO it's not too bad It can even lift things directly in front of it Lastly, the underside shot: Also, for those who haven't seen them yet, here are a couple of quick renders showing the internals of the model: And with colour coding for the various functions All pictures and renders can be found in higher resolution in the appropriate Bricksafe folder. Overall I'm quite happy with the resulting model, but even though all functions work, at least one of them is not ideal (cabin tilt; I'm looking at you). Also, I feel the crane superstructure could be made more elegant. Anyway, hope to be able to make the video tomorrow! Comments, thoughts and criticism is as always appreciated! -
As some of you may know LEGO is running a Technic Building Competition with Mercedes-Benz. I was looking forward to participate and it took me a while to understand what future truck would look like. Initial idea of building truck driven by both front and back axles was quite simple to implement. Two L-motors have been used for that. Steering is performed by Servo motor and truck is controlled remotely. Fun fact - chassis without aerodynamic cover is somewhat reversible and can be used up side down. Final model is very sturdy thanks to slick and strong body. Unfortunately, due to selected width rear axle is somewhat less reliable and has gear grinding upon start but drives normally afterwards. This is something wasn't possible to completely solve having double wheels per each side. [/url] Below you can check my vision of a truck in year 2045: Few more pictures can be found on my Flickr Stats: 2 L-motors for propulsion Servo motor for steering Small non-rechargeable battery box 44 studs long 17 studs wide 24 studs tall weights 1098g. no suspension -
I'm in the process of creating the build instructions for Akiyuki's Cup-to-Cup GBC module (refer to this forum post). I appear to have encountered an issue with the LDraw PF Medium motor, which is causing LDView to crash. I'm wondering whether someone would be willing to take a couple of minutes to run the following simple test to see whether they see the same behaviour and post their outcome of the test. Obviously the real build instructions are more complex than just a medium motor! I have simply distilled the build instructions down to the point to identify the part that appears to be causing the issue. My machine is running Vista (Business), SP2 Build 6002. 1) Use MLCAD to create an ldr file that contains only a PK medium motor (part # 58120). 2) Open the ldr file from step 1 in LDView. A screenshot of mine is show below: 3) Exit from LDView. It is at this point that I am seeing LDView crash: Any feedback will be appreciated. Regards, David
