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Showing results for tags 'UCS'.
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Hi there! I faced the problem of lack of storage space for assembled sets and decided to separate them, and then sort the items by color and put in boxes. But I had an idea - why not to take a video of this process. So I want to present You a kind of "review". If in all reviews You saw how to build the set, here You will see the opposite process :) If you liked, subscribe and thumbs up. Critique is also welcome!
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When I am taking a break I sometimes mod my models. This little post is what happened the last time I needed to take a break. I was building my latest moc and was about halfway done. In the morning had gotten a big shipment of the dgb plates I needed to move on and I was content with the progress I had made that day. The sun was shining and birds were singing. Well, it was early March and there were very few birds to be found anywhere - but I imagine I could hear them sing. Suddenly the imaginary birds went silent. Something on the model was not lining up as expected. I took a second look. Nope. It was not correct. I had messed up. Badly. I knew what I had to do. I needed to take most of the model apart and a long with it the last couple of days of work. I felt the frustration surging through my veins (if this story ever turns into a movie, I would like to be played the Rock. I imagine he has the acting skills to play a frustrated Lego builder). I stood up (a bit too fast so I got dizzy and had to sit down again). I was sitting down. Pondering. I really did not feel for taking the model apart. If only there were something I could do to help me push off the inevitable – just for a bit. I stood up (this time slowly). I looked around my Lego filled room. The models were getting dusty. I took my brush and went to work, cleaning the models. The radar dish on the falcon always falls off when dusting, but not today. Maybe it was a sign? I continued. I knocked over the Y-wing. It had not been a sign… Then I got to the Star Destroyer. The command tower had a thick layer of dust. I took the model down so I could give it a good cleaning. I got to the back. Saw the engines covered in cobwebs (well not cobwebs exactly, but it sounds more dramatic than ‘more dust’, so bear with me). I glanced at my old engine mod. Hmm, it could be better. I had had fun making it, but I hadn’t been concerned with the finer details. Well, now I had the time… The mod was pretty straightforward. It is just about putting bricks on top of bricks. Nothing was taken a part - that would diminish the purpose of relaxing :) I wanted to get the sloping engine housings as correct as possible along with all the piping. The remnants of the old mod can be seen behind the engines. How the detailing exactly look back there I am not 100% certain, but this gives a nice affect of depth. Yes, I have used a lot of lbg levers. I was lucky I had a small stash because they are pricey! This time the tables have turned! With the assitance of an Escort Frigate, the Corellian Corvette is hunting down the behemoth Imperial Star Destroyer – yes they are all both exactly to scale :) ISD 1600m. Frigate 300m. Corvette 150m. The Corvette is a modified version of the mini model Lego released a few years ago. The Frigate is what happened when I accidentally shot my Nebulon B with a shrink ray! After this, I could go back and take my moc apart.
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Hey Guys, I finally built the The Tumbler after it sat on the corner of my room for a few months! I know it's an old set and you've probably watched multiple Tumbler builds, I just wanted to share it in dedication to BvS which is coming out soon. Off course it's totally a different universe but for not very big comic fans like myself, anything Batman related is admired.
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Hi, Some years ago I made some general requests about the possibilities to collect pieces to make a discontinued Lego set. Dunno if it was here or elsewhere, but I was fairly unaware of Bricklink and similar sites back then. The answers I got was that it was most likely no good idea to collect pieces, better to get the set complete. Somewhat discouraged by this I dropped the idea. 20160907_212210 by Jens, on Flickr Fast forward to this spring, when I rediscovered my interest for Lego and made a big leap into the world of AFOLs. I don't remember what started it, but the idea of getting the dream set was once again back. I got the first two UCS sets back in 2000 (X-wing and TIE interceptor) and ever since I laid my eyes on the Y-wing I wanted it. Considered it too expensive for me back then, I never bought it, something I regretted much. 20160619_185246 by Jens, on Flickr Now. To cut a long story short. I did it. I decided to get myself a 10134 UCS Y-wing. But not by paying a ridiculously amount of money for a complete set. Well, ridiculously amount for me anyway. I started off by digging into my childhood lego boxes, well aware of that it would give me worn pieces in wrong/old colors. I managed to get a fair amount of the pieces just by digging, about 33%. The rest of the pieces took about three months to get, mainly using bricklink. 20160905_175109 by Jens, on Flickr It's "easy" to get the dream set of yours. It's only a matter of money. The real challenge is to get it for a reasonable price. I quickly replaced too expensive parts with cheaper alternatives. It's a trade-off, I know, but ok for me. I tried to be as truthful to the original as possible. It required some minor "redesign" in order to get the price on a fair level. 20160906_164539 by Jens, on Flickr So. Here I am. I'm still waiting for some parts, and I will use the possibility to print stickers myself (I have a friend that can do this for me). I managed to get my dream set, or at least something very close to it, for a bit under ~150 Eur. And boy, is this set awesome! This is my fourth UCS (others being X-wing (first one), TIE interceptor and Slave-I). 20160906_195126 by Jens, on Flickr More pics can be found on my flickr, below. The moral of the story? Well, you CAN get that set you've always longed for, and for a reasonable price (per piece). It's a matter of patience, creativity and well, money. :) Next project will be... the holy grail of Star Wars Lego. Nuff said :D My flickr for Lego: Jens at Flickr
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Hey guys. My UCS B-Wing is starting to bend under it's own weight :( The main area is where the cockpit attaches to the main body that houses the engines. Anyone else got this too? Is there any know solutions to sort out the problem? Thx
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2016 has been a very successful year for LEGO Star Wars. There so far have been 37 Star Wars sets released (including the 9 sets to be released September 30th). They also made a new LEGO Star Wars TV show, The Freemaker Adventures which just aired its final episode. But 2016's UCS sets have sparked loads and loads of controversy, when the images and details of 75098 UCS Assault on Hoth it sparked outrage as many people though it costed way too much, didn't deserve the UCS title, and was a lazy attempt with so much incompleteness, and other complaints. The other UCS set is the 75159 UCS Death Star, it also has been criticized as a lazy attempt and a cash grab by LEGO. ^ 75098 UCS Assault on Hoth ^ 75159 UCS Death Star Set Reactions: Now I totally see everyone's point on 75098 and I think it was a very poor effort by TLG, but I differ from the majority on my opinion of 75159. I believe that 75159 is great, I have heard how upset people were when 10188 was discontinued, but it was very old and needed an update. Then when we got the update everyone is so outraged and upset with TLG for not changing it much. I see that people wanted something new, but 10188 was selling well for the 7.5 years it was being produced so why change it, everyone loved the set. Now I also see why people are upset about the price hike, but two factors called for it, first is that inflation sucks and accounts for roughly $50 of the increase, and second back in 2008 there was only LucasFilm with the rights to Star Wars, but now LEGO needs both Disney and LucasFilm licencing which isn't cheap, so it sucks but we know that this had to be done to continue to make profit. Also this might be slightly biased because I got to the LEGO and Star Wars buffet late and by the time I bought my first Star Wars set in late 2015 I was not yet big enough a fan to consider buying 10188, so I want 75159 badly an that is also my final reason for why there was nothing wrong with what TLG did with 75159, because there were so many more who wanted and couldn't get the original and we now have a second chance to get it. So leave your reactions to these two sets in the comments and May the Bricks be With You, Always.
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The Redemption is one of my favorite ship in the original Star Wars trilogy. I really wanted to the build a UCS model of it. Yet, people who have built it aren't sharing the instructions for the moment (I understand why now ...). Last year I decided to design it under LDD with the goal of building it for real and displaying it ! Here are the conditions I've set and decision I've made: - A scale of 1/250 : -> 1/200 is actually better suited for this project. - Around 5000 parts : -> This was changed to 9000. - Only cheap and common parts : -> It's almost the case, all the parts are common. -> There are some expensive parts : the Technic bricks, the plates and few slopes. - Swooshable -> It will probably be swooshable as long as you don't hold it from the center. -> It will weight something like 15 kg ... - Be as close as possible to the movie model -> I am using about 200 pictures of the original model used for the movie -> I am using some pictures of the work done by ShowCraft on the therpf forum (He seems to have alot of information I don't) -> For the color scheme, I am using light bluish gray because 1) the parts are available and 2) you can't really see the colors in the movie -> In the movies, the model was mirrored to show the right side. If it is interesting, I use the model design, and if not, I mirror. - Build it by May the 4th 2016 -> It's going to be complicated ... I am about half way done with the design. Here are the pictures of the current work : WIP 4 by Samir Lrhoul, sur Flickr WIP 3 by Samir Lrhoul, sur Flickr WIP 5 by Samir Lrhoul, sur Flickr Please comment ! I'd love to know what you think of the current work and if you have any advises. PS : the flashy colors or things that will be modified. -
Poe's X-Wing by Ryan McBryde, on Flickr Poe's X-Wing2 by Ryan McBryde, on Flickr Poe's X-Wing3 by Ryan McBryde, on Flickr Poe's X-Wing4 by Ryan McBryde, on Flickr Poe's X-Wing - Top, Closed by Ryan McBryde, on Flickr Poe's X-Wing - Head-on, Open by Ryan McBryde, on Flickr I got rushed a bit at the end getting this ready for BrickUniverse Dallas and I've got a lot of improvements in mind. But, I'd love to hear what y'all think and your thoughts on how I can make this better. Mainly, I'm struggling with the weight and sturdiness of the wings. I'm also not happy with the front section's slope or the gaps in the front of the engine. Regardless, I hope y'all like it and kudos to thehornedrat for beating me to the punch
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Although I don't buy much City sets, I also agree that the sets looks great. But one thing that bother me about the building sets in City is there's only a half of the building. Do you think that it'll be nice to having a whole building rather than a half? And also, since most themes has sets that have more than 900 pieces like DC Superheroes, Star Wars, Marvel Superheroes and Technic, will you think that City also needs some UCS-sized sets like a massive police station that as big like the 10179 Millennium Falcon? (Just UCS-sized, not a proper UCS set)
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Hi dear forum! How do you display/store your models? Do you keep stickers on or off? I havent been collecting for too long, two years now, and I'm not sure wheather I should keep them on or just have the bricks plain. Bought some models new and seal and some are used. A bunch of them has really bad sticker quality while others are looking nice. I guess value wise it is better to have the stickers on, but the models are way easier to keep clean wihtout them, especially the ones where the stickers are starting to give in. I could not think of any better place to get my questions answere than here. Thanks. Edit: I know this is more of a general question, not specified for Star Wars, but this is the only forum I follow on Eurobricks. -
75098 Assault on Hoth™ Ages 12+. 2,144 pieces. US $249.99 - CA $299.99 - DE 249.99€ - UK £219.99 - DK 2199.00 DKK *Euro pricing varies by country. Please visit shop.LEGO.com for regional pricing. Play out action-packed Hoth battles like never before! This fantastic LEGO® recreation of the Rebel force’s Echo Base from Star Wars: Episode V The Empire Strikes Back has all the details you need to create your own epic ice-planet battles. Set out on scouting missions with the Snowspeeder armed with twin spring-loaded shooters, and when you spot the enemy speeder bike, get back to base and help Luke, Han and the other Rebel heroes lock down the blast doors, ready the laser cannons, man the gun turrets with dual spring-loaded shooters and power up the devastating ion cannon, also with 2 spring-loaded shooters! This amazing model has so many more features, including a service area with crane, control room area, power generator with explode function, rotating communication dish, scout post with dual stud shooters and a Tauntaun with its own stable. There’s even a Wampa cave (with Wampa) for Luke to escape from! This amazingly detailed set’s modular design also means that you can create your very own Rebel base configuration. Prepare for ultimate LEGO Star Wars action! • Includes 14 minifigures with assorted weapons: Luke Skywalker, Han Solo, Toryn Farr, Rebel Officer, Wes Janson, Wedge Antilles, K-3PO, 5 Rebel troopers and 2 Snowtroopers, plus an R3-A2, Tauntaun and a Wampa. • Features Rebel base with modular wall and trench sections, a Snowspeeder and a speeder bike. • Wall section features slidable blast doors, service area with crane, control room area, power generator with explode function, ion cannon with dual spring-loaded shooters, laser turret with spring-loaded shooters and space for a minifigure, scout post with dual stud shooters and space for a minifigure, Tauntaun stable and a Wampa cave. • Trench section features heavy blasters, laser turret with double spring-loaded shooters and space for a minifigure, and a laser cannon with rapid stud shooter. • Snowspeeder features an opening cockpit, extending speed flaps and 2 spring-loaded shooters. • Weapons include Luke’s Lightsaber, 7 blaster pistols, 2 blaster rifles and 2 blasters. • Accessories include 7 Hoth Rebel helmets, 2 Snowtrooper helmets, and Wes and Wedge’s flight helmets. • Man the weapons and prepare to fire! • Jump in the Snowspeeder and track the enemy. • Keep a lookout for Imperial forces from the scout post. • Close the blast doors and prepare for battle! • Tend to the Tauntaun. • Hoist up the Snowspeeder ready for servicing. • Bring down orbiting starships with the devastating ion cannon! • Can Luke escape the ferocious Wampa? • Snowspeeder measures over 1” (5cm) high, 7” (18cm) long and 6” (17cm) wide. • Speeder bike measures over 1” (3cm) high, 5” (13cm) long and 1” (4cm) wide. • Power generator measures over 3” (8cm) high, 6” (16cm) wide and 5” (13cm) deep. • Wall section including ion cannon measures over 5” (15cm) high, 20” (51cm) wide and 11” (30cm) deep. • Trench section measures over 3” (10cm) high, 13” (35cm) wide and 4” (11cm) deep. Available for sale directly through LEGO® beginning April 30, 2016 via shop.LEGO.com, LEGO® Stores or via phone: 8]US Contact Center 1-800-453-4652 8]CA (English) Contact Center 1-800-453-4652 8]CA (French) Contact Center 1-877-518-5346 8]European Contact Center 00-800-5346-1111 LEGO, the LEGO logo and the Minifigure are trademarks of the LEGO Group. ©2016 The LEGO Group. All rights reserved. Star Wars and all characters, names and related indicia are © & ™ Lucasfilm Ltd.
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After building my minifig scale T-70 i got the urge to go bigger and start an UCS version. So here she is besides her little sister, hope you enjoy the pics and build. Also a big shout out to usfighting and his amazing T-65 he made here... http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=104810, amazing model and big inspiration in making mine.
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So I was thinking about bricklinking a UCS Tantive IV but when I was going through some of the parts I noticed that some of the dark red pieces were extremely expensive, as in 11 wheels for over $20 each expensive, as well as a few other pieces. However, I got over my immediate sulk that I could not do it by figuring out an alternative. That night I watched Revenge of the Sith and saw the Tantive IV with a different color scheme, immediately pausing the movie and sprinting to my desktop to open up LDD. I imported the original model and changed all Red pieces to Blue, all Dark Red pieces to Dark Blue, and all Tan pieces to Black. The result was a lot cooler than I would have thought, and honestly, I like it a little better with this color scheme. Obviously there are a few pieces that do not exist in Dark Blue, but luckily for me there are spray-paint cans that exist in Dark Blue. I know, I know, spray-painting Lego is so crazy, so against purists, but hey I am only painting because the pieces do not exist in Dark Blue. As of right now, I do not have a current time expectancy for this project, but I will try my best to get it done as quick as possible, a new Graphics Card and a new Camera are not helping my funds out very much
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Second set for separation =) Like, comment, subscribe if You enjoyed this video.
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This thread is about the ongoing tweaks to the Nebulon B I posted a few weeks back – and, more importantly, the instructions how to build it yourself! Here is the original post: http://www.eurobrick...pic=129607&st=0 Before we delve into the improvements there is a message from the instructions master himself: “To everyone who is interested in this absolutely gorgeous model, I am sure that you have heard the rumors of a professional grade instruction manual, and in the words of Han Solo, "It's true, all of it". It is indeed true that a manual will release, and I am currently working on it as I type! Along with the manual will be some awesome content, but we will save that surprise for later. Obviously the biggest thing in your mind is "When will it be done?" To answer that question, I am pushing myself to get this done 100% ready for release on June 1. What is keeping me from making the release date sooner is the fact that there is one tricky thing for me to do in terms of reverse engineering this model, but once that part is done, it will be very easy to finish the manual up. It is very possible that I can get the manual done before then, but let's keep it as June 1 for now in order to avoid pushing the date back at all.” I can’t wait for these instructions and will probably have to build it again :) Now to the tweaking After making the original post I looked at the pictures and I though that the model looked pretty good. However a few areas still stood out to me. In some places I simply discovered a better brick to convey something and in other places I found a bit more detail to put in. For example, I have changed a few bricks and added a few details to the top pod. The “gold bar” brick in lbg has come in quite handy. The overall detailing on the green pod is also better, but I am still considering a few bricks changes for some of the finer details. There are several tweaks like these, but there was one place in particular that still bugged me - the long subdivided pod near the bottom of the stalactite. Even when designing the first iteration of the ship I wasn’t completed satisfied with it. Back then it had been a little too small and I wanted more detail on it. During the rebuilding process I had gotten used to – even though now it was clearly too small and compared to the rest of the ship it lacked detail. Besides the size discrepancy, the pod on the film model consists of 82 narrow sections from one end to the other. My original version consists of 27, not so narrow sections, and that kept being an eyesore to me. So as an experiment I did this: Just by changing the small slopes with grilles I got the look of the sectioned pod. The way the old pod is built meant that the spacing between each of the grille bricks matches the width of each individual grille-legs. Thus each leg of each grille looks like a separate subsection. By tilting the core of the original pod the shape of the pod began to emerge. Now I just had to mirror this and put the detailing back on. Now the pod consists of 27 x 3 = 81 sections, just one from the studio model, and lives much better up to the detailing of the rest of the ship. In the picture above you can also see that the section below the long pod had been updated and made wider. This is the sections that among other things uses a racecar on the studio model :) I have also added more detail more piping and detailing elsewhere – and removed a bunch of studs. The backside has also gotten an overhaul especially the back of the fin, but I forgot to take the picture of the back before the model was put back on display. The antenna placement was also tweaked :) I hope you like the changes. They will make it in to the instructions as well. Any further changes will be updated in this thread. Next up: putting in lights ;) Lastly, I have gotten a few question about the stand. It is pretty stable also compared to some of the standard UCS stands. It just takes a little help from a friend to set it up. You hold the model while your friend places the legs - 20 seconds and you are set :) Watch this space for updates on the INSTRUCTIONS! Now with X-wings: More changes: -
Hi guys, so what happened was that I accidentally build a BRAND NEW EF76 Nebulon B Medical Frigate! (It is ok if you skip past all the text and jump straight to the pictures below :) ) A rainy Saturday afternoon in December, I decided to put my old Nebulon model back together after it had been displayed at AFOLCon. Since I had to build the entire thing again, I thought it would be fun to see if I could improve it in some way and update the design. Thus I revisited the modelermagic.com site I had used the first time I designed the model. They have 200+ pictures of the model used in the movie. The model was one of the last finished models created for the Empire Strikes Back back in 1980. As with most ILM models it was made from a wonderful cocktail of kit-bashed and custom-made parts. If you look closely at the studio model, you can find old model kit parts – warship hulls, rockets, racecar fenders, engines of all sorts, and different kinds of weaponry. Even the frames used to hold the different kit parts have found their purpose. Back when I was building the old version of the ship I even found some guys trying to recreate the studio model – identifying the old model kits parts and all, a few years later the guy is still at it! But I digress… Looking at the pictures again I got a few ideas for modifications and extra details. But, more importantly, it somehow looked like the front half maybe needed to be… bigger?? I knew that the official 300m length and 72m width of the ship did NOT fit the proportions of the studio model. I had taken that into account when building the first version of the ship – where I repeatedly had to redesign the entire front again and again to hit the correct proportions. But looking at the pictures with fresh eyes it still looked “off” from certain angles. However, I couldn’t pinpoint how much exactly needed to be done… Until, I found the Empire Strikes Back BlueRay! On the BlueRay there were additional pictures AND a video of the movie model rotating. The goals were (as always) to get the proportions and details of the ship as accurate as possible. And, using the BlueRay material, I discovered that the entire front needed to be MUCH bigger than before to be accurate. Thus, a brand new design process began. During this process I built an entirely new front half of the ship with a ton of new features, which made the old model look, well, like a model. When that was done I began tweaking and rebuilding the rest of the ship; the neck, the back sections, the aft Deflector Control tower, the engine detailing, etc. etc.. Even the mini Falcon needed to be changed to another model entirely to fit with the larger construction. In the end I had built a brand new model! When designing the old model I had been pretty uncompromising when it came to angles of the ship. I wanted to get everything as close to the movie model as possible and not just having either straight or 45degree angles - this mantra has continued with the new model. This meant there were no easy solutions to make most of these angles. The “off” angles combined with all the specific detailing resulted in the original ship ending up using more than 450 types of bricks. This was also due to the discrete coloring found in the movie model, which I tried to replicate. Due to the much increased size of the new model it can afford much greater detailing – especially the front half, which was way too small before, is now infinitely more detailed compared. As I had originally done with the engine section, I could now begin to interpret every little piece of detailing on the front of the studio model. This also means that the brick type count with the new model has gone past 500 – and the ship is now several thousand bricks larger than before. Enjoy! This ship has a ton of detail and sections so I have tried sorting the pictures a bit – beginning with the front. The Front The Medical Frigate is a very “forward heavy” model. The entire front section takes up nearly half of the models total length (and much than half of the bricks). The front section has several defining features: The huge dark water tank, the antenna arrays and the dominating “stalactite” housing numerous smaller pods. The water tanks sports a lot of piping - but also a lonely canon (AKA a dbg 6246a screwdriver :) ). The Stalactite was one of my favorite areas designing the first model. However the increased size has allowed me to have details not possible before. Each section is like designing its own separate model. My way of working was to think of each "pod" as a separate, detailed smaller ship – which actually fits with the lore of these pods being interchangeable. I also like the haphazard cover plates encapsulating the pods. Some of the plating seems almost to float in space. This angle also reveals some of the several, otherwise hidden, viewports of the ship. Each part of the ship is designed as if it were a separate micro model. Just like trying to make the scale Falcon as precise as possible (Thanks Tim) each section is built for optimal detail. For comparison is a picture of the studio model in the same area below: Here the dirty, used look of the model along with the subtle splashes of color is evident. These are features I have tried to recreate in the design of the model. Before we move on here is a shot of the top of the front. The short-range communications array is in focus. I have always been curious as to what the purpose of the grilled area is? The Middle The area where the front section meets the neck is where we find the medical bay. Here is the iconic window where Leia and Luke watch the Falcon depart with Chewie and Lando in the search for Han. Getting the shape of the window correct was a challenge when using plates and tiles for the plating. I did a test using a “brick wall” approach, which made it easier to get the desired shape of the window, but forewent the nice texturing afforded by the lines between the tiles of different shapes and sizes. Just now writing this post I got an idea. Looking at the window in the picture above I decided I could clean it up a bit, but also set in the proper picture of Luke, Leia and the droids (the picture was found in the aforementioned post). This only goes to show that no Lego model is ever truly done :) (too bad I delivered back the good camera so this picture is taken with my phone ><). And now I got an idea for my next moc – I will build this medical-bay-window-scene in minifig scale, put in the minifigs, take a picture and place it in this window frame – it is the Lego way! :D The Falcon. In scale with the Medical Frigate, docked as seen in ESB. The excellent design is thanks to Tim Goddard. I have updated it a bit with a new cockpit section and a few other modifications. The Falcon is attached to the “Docking Neck” which is detailed below. The docking neck up close. Loads of piping, but also a few slopes thrown in to approximate the not quite round, but not quite square, shape of the studio model. The detailing continues all the way around – even under the neck. This was the only place I did not detail on the old model, but this time around it has gotten the proper treatment. Connecting front and back. Getting the Falcon to hang on properly and NOT fall down was "fun". Looking at the film shot it is actually docked in the exhaust vent right under the turret (which also makes little sense). Trying to getting it to hang in that area meant that it was too off the center of gravity and I would need a seperate stand for the Falcon. Or I could revert to the smaller, lighter version used in the old version. I am still considering a solution :) The Back The back section’s main features are the engines, the static discharge vanes and the Deflector Control tower. However, there are also plenty of more subtle features to pique the imagination. This angle shows off the details of the Deflector Control tower nicely, but it also reveals some detailing not seen from the angles shown on film. I have found no description on what the pipes are meant to be, but they look interesting and are part of the section of the model labeled Engineering. There is also a row of holes in the model here, which I suspect should be windows. However, on the studio model they are not covered with the kind of film the other windows are. Maybe it is an omission or maybe the holes serves a different purpose – in any case I have recreated them here. The static discharge vanes are also prominent in this picture. They must serve their purpose in atmosphere or perhaps more gaseous parts of space – perhaps inside a nebula eh? :P Here is the opposite side of the same area. Although the model is overall symmetrical, the different detailing techniques of the modelers working on different parts of the model is evident when looking at the studio model. I have tried to interpret the different styles using bricks :) Now to the juicy stuff – the engines. The engine section of the studio model sports an obscene amount of detail. Dozens and dozens of plates, placed in an intricate system. Looking at this section on the studio model from different angles continuously reveal new details. Just as you thought you had the look nailed, a new picture reveals plates jutting further out than expected or until then hidden nuances. This is why another picture of the exact same area, but from a slightly different angle, is needed. Looking at the engines from different perspectives also revealed that they are placed at slightly different “depths”. In general I had to revisit this area quite a few times because nothing lines up as neatly as initially expected. Even though it can look like it, the sides of the engine section does not slope at exactly 45 degrees – which makes recreating it that much more troublesome. Another perspective. The deflector control tower has a weird air intake looking thing at the top. The “Dark Side” The starboard side of the ship is not really shown up close in either ESB or RotJ. The main reason for this is that this is the side where the model was mounted to a large steel frame for shooting. The side sports a lot of unique detailing, as also seen on the back section. When looking at the starboard side of the stalactite, several unique features stands out compared to the port side. I have tried to recreate all these features, but I have also improvised a bit of additional detailing because this side was somewhat barer. Looking at the green command module there were no windows on this side and some weird plating. This lead me to believe that at some point the modelers had to prioritize their time to get the model done - and stuff that would not be seen in the movie suddenly became less important to flesh out. Thus I have taken a few liberties with this side. I recreated all the unique features, but I also added detail. For example the starboard windows to the command module – only having windows on one side struck me as weird. Since the other side of the same module had piping and cylinders I added a bit of those here as well – without mirroring anything, because no mirroring is to be found anywhere else on the model. I did more or less the same with the tan module adding some detail to compliment the opposite side. However, I have tried to make my own detailing subtle enough as to not take focus from the unique features found here. All in all, this side is a bit more of a playground compared to the rest of the model where every area is exquisitely detailed. The more modest texturing here begs for continued tinkering :) Heading into Hyperspace! The Nebulon B - ready to jump to lightspeed! Overview On the shelf. The model is done for now, but a model is always a work in progress. I am always tweaking here and there. I have already made a few modifications since these pictures were taken – I will keep you updated here :) I got a lot of builders asking to send them LDD of my old model. Well, I have good news. I will be making (not me personally) instructions for this if anyone is interested. When they are done the will be available alongside the LDD, Excel Sheet with the bricks needed and an XLM wanted list to upload to Bricklink :) And yes, it is swooshable! Please comment! Go here for updates to the design and instructions: http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=131170 UPDATE:
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I recently finished bricklinking a UCS Death Star II, and finally got around to putting it up the pictures. https://www.flickr.c...th/27481130204/ Death Star photos by North White, on Flickr A shot of the front Death Star photos by North White, on Flickr Backside Death Star photos by North White, on Flickr A picture of the "Eye." I misordered 2x4 left wedges in dark grey, so I went with it Death Star photos by North White, on Flickr The lil' Super star destroyer included for scale. I modded it a bit because I didn't like the conning tower design with the binoculars. Overall, 10143 is a very fun build, and mostly uses cheap pieces. Mostly. I just went with a dark grey 10x10 dish on top because light grey is way pricey. Otherwise, the main problem was finding enough grey wings from the same seller. That and the fact that I ordered most of the parts at 1am after work, and so I messed up quite a few of the orders .
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Five years ago when the Super Star Destroyer 10221 came out, I couldn't dream of buying it. In Canada, with taxes and possibly shipping combined you were looking at around $600.00 for it - which I'd already dropped on the Death Star playset and that was, I felt, the maximum I would ever spend on Lego. I simply decided that the SSD wasn't happening in this lifetime and that was that. But after MOCing the rest of the major OT locatons/ships, five years later this one slot remained empty into an otherwise comprehensive collection. I had to have that Executor, I thought. Checked out some listings on eBay, Kijiji and of course Bricklink. The markup would have made me spit coffee at my screen - if I drank coffee. The prices were lowest at $1400.00 CDN. There was one complete and assembled going for $1100. Unreal - but understandable. It's a limited edition high demand item. A compromise was made and I started to Bricklink Pellaeon's brilliantly designed Midi Scale Super Star Destroyer found here. It would cost me about $70 to get the parts I needed for it on Bricklink. It is a beauty of a design and TLG would be smart to adopt this kind of scale for such a distinguished and iconic OT Star Wars ship. But it nagged at me - in the back of my head - if I did build this, would I be satisfied with the scale? Despite already ordering parts for the midi scale, I started to sink deep into the abyss of Bricklink and multiple blogs, posts and threads on the subject of Bricklinking large sets. I was hooked on the idea of this huge set I couldn't afford. But I also discovered some very important information - the UCS Super Star Destroyer contains no super special, highly priced parts that only appear in that set, 10221. Encouraged by this, I found a great price on replacement stickers and that was that - I was invested and there was no turning back. The goal was to get this half price. If I got the price down to $300.00 ($200-250 USD?) I could do it. It wouldn't break the bank so to speak and the full size SSD could be realised. It would just take several long nights alone working out which pieces to buy, who from, and what sets I had that I could cannibalize for parts... ...especially wedges. There are over 100 wedges of the 3x12 type in this model. It ended up being mostly a scramble to see if I could get the right number of the right color and how cheap. Here's where it got weird: the light grey wedge pieces are very common in both Star Wars and non Star Wars kits. They are, for that reason, highly in demand because people want them to build all manner of MOCs. This was reflective in the prices. So what I ended up doing was only using those more valued light grey wedges for the top and the absolute bottom layer of the base. The rest of the build I would use dark grey 3x12 wedges, of which they were much more available and cheap. So if you are willing to cut costs down with a bit of color changes, I'm sure the choice saved me close to $100.00. The build of this thing was very exciting. There are 4 main stages, the base, the spine, the "cityscape" on top (with the bridge) and the perimeter neckline that gives the SSD its distinctive shape. Building these stages, I was serious about getting the base and spine as accurately built as possible, lending some flexibility to the top bits which are arguably more cosmetic. Lots of rainbow colors came out to help put the base together. Sadly this resulted in a lot more work near the end, as I had to rip apart the whole thing to replace some of the rainbow bits that were visible from the lateral strips that hug the sides of this giant beast. Most of the rainbow bits were contained but I was surprised how deep into the ship you can see once you've got a lot of light coming in to the display. The spine was tricky - I had used a bunch of smaller beams in my haste and once the Bricklink shipment with all the long technic beams came, I was compelled to replace some but not all of them. The stability was and still is decent. I'm proud to say that it ended up being rather swooshable (with a firm grip of course!) Once I got to the cityscape part of it, I started taking a few minor liberties. There were a couple of areas where I got lost, in particular with the intricacies around the recessed bridge scene. In the end, I took a leap of faith based on assembly videos and was invaluable. Even though it didn't show every step (the instructions were good for that) it was super helpful to see everything in real three dimensions. I spent a lot of time reviewing and pausing Brickbuilder's helpful video to check the build. I'm sure it wasn't made to assist in a build but it certainly did.One area that I went completely "off book" was the triangle-shaped bit that brings together the front taper of the ship with the back end - I hadn't ordered enough 4x4 wedge plates and I was getting impatient. I just rammed together some bits to make it work and so far it seems perfectly sturdy and I have no plans to revisit it. The discrepancy might stick out to owners of the official kit, but no worries for me. Finally I had one last Bricklink package arrive with dozens more 2x12 plates and 2x4 plates to help fit together the two large strips that make up the outer edges of the top. Since I'm still not 100% finished with it (it's done but I plan to work more on it when time allows) so for that reason I haven't anchored down the two strips using those 12 door hinge plates on the undersides. So those parts are a little loose - with too much shake the end plug can pop out and send the two strips flying off. So I reinforced them a bit more to survive ejecting to the floor. That's why there are a few extra wedges attached to the underside of these strips. It may look a little wonky but the reinforcement it provides is well worth it. As for the figures, Bossk is a major holdout. I will buy him eventually. For now, I'm satisfied with the stand-in involving the Chima croc head. It's certainly worth mentioning that I didn't bother with the stands (or the plaque) but I plan to build them someday. My shelf actually allows it to be displayed without the stands. The only issue is it cannot be displayed flat on a table - it needs to dangle off part of the table to avoid ramming the engines into it and have an engine array collapsing on the floor in a million pieces. That only happened once, so far. There are a few bits on the underside that use the wrong dark grey. Those will be swapped out eventually. I'm surprised there wasn't more. We've got some stand-ins for 4-Lom and Zuckuss, too! Thanks for reading this. I am super thrilled with it. It was a satisfying build that I managed to pull off within budget and about three months of spare time. What a satisfying and mighty sight. Although I regret not getting it an retail, having one slightly imperfect at half price is a great thing. Questions, comments, etc welcome. Oh yes, of course, the obligatory "no disintegrations" scene!! "You are free to use any methods necessary, but I want them alive..."
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Hello all Eurobrickers! Today is a great day for the community as a MOC is making its long awaited release to the public! That's right, Mortesv's UCS-Scale Nebulon-B Medical Frigate now has plans ready for purchase The purchase of these plans includes a professional grade manual totaling at 1,493 pages, the LDD files used to create the manual, an excel spreadsheet covering the 531 unique parts lot and their quantity, and a bonus LDD file that contains to scale models of fighter ships to put next to Nebulon when it is on display! So to recap, a purchase of these plans includes the original LDD files, a 1,493 page instruction manual, an excel spreadsheet parts list, and a bonus LDD file with to-scale fighters. The final price for this awesome bundle is 50 U.S Dollars ($50). If you are interested in purchasing a copy, please PM me or send an email to chrdvorak@hotmail.com The final MOC contains 5,728 pieces, which would make it the largest Lego Star Wars set if it were released on shelves. The ship measures about 4 feet long when completed! A lot of hard work went into this project on both the designing end and the manual end, and Mortesv and I are very excited to give everyone the chance to build this awesome MOC! Here are some images from the manual: May the force be with you and happy building!!! -
Hello, my question is about the height/high of the set 10019 UCS Blockblade Runner (Tantive IV). I don't have this Set, for that is my question. In centimeters, and including the bases (or supports). Thanks for your help. LEGO 10019 High v2 by Kuek Cuac de Koki, en Flickr
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I was always very fond of this oddball Rebel Alliance starfighter... A very bold but also sleek and streamlined design. The system scaled version, I bought last year, was nice but didn't quench my thirst... I knew, there was an UCS out there, but I read very bad reviews and a lot of rants about it... and the cockpit area wasn't really "good" to say the least... I got an offer for a sealed set at 250 Euro shipped, which seemed decent, but I already had my mind set on doing some small and some major changes to the set, so the premium to get an original was imho wasted money! Bricklinking!!! I kind of like Bricklink and even if its tiresome at times you can always get great stuff from a lot of nice people sharing the hobby or the business... my last project was the UCS Deathstar Hangar... So I decided on getting the parts I needed which took about 3 months and I started looking for applicable mods, but there are only a handful... finally I found a great cockpit mod at fbtb that I wanted to integrate, and I made A LOT of smaller changes as I went along lengthening building time to about 2 full days. After all I got all the parts plus spares, original instructions, canopy and stickers for around 175 Euro... I really like the result, and think its a great rendition of this classic trilogy ship. See for yourself: What did I do? - the cockpit was completely reworked to get the look and the size about right... I put in Ten-Nunb to have a pilot working there, even if he's not in scale... - backside of the cockpit was worked on, some of the gaps were closed, the tan-colored parts were swapped for DBG - the neck was streamlined and plated and I added greeblies - the round parts in front of the engine, that are known to leave nasty gaps were closed with small technic pins and a clever plating design... - the topsides of the wings were plated (one sloped tile is still missing, because one of my BL-orders was short one piece...) I left the undersides without plating to keep the perfect shilouette of the wings intact... plating would make the too chubby, imho. - I tweaked a lot of fine details with small greebling parts, making it more interesting to look at - Used some old gray and old dark gray parts to give it that used-universe look - I switched all colorful parts that would be visible in the finished model to gray, which makes it much more realisic... (I kept some of the peeking parts in tan in, because I think it fits nice to have some discoloration here and there...)
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Hello all, I have decided to resurrect this project from my archive of many unfinished builds. The only problem with this unfinished build is that I do not have any, and I mean any of the pieces ready to start this project. After a failed attempt last winter, I sold my pieces and as I thought back then, I would one day regret that. Today is that day. After the destruction of 6200 pieces all over my floor, I impulsively sold the pieces, as I was frustrated and did not want to rebuild every part of the AT-AT that took me weeks to make. This feeling of not satisfying my crave to build this AT-AT has recently emerged up again, and I am ready to tackle this project once again. Of course this time, I am better prepared. This time around, I must mention that I will use the updated body rather than the original for obvious cost reasons. As for my bricklink process, I am not going to follow the generic style of ordering all pieces and building once I have them all. In fact, what I am going to do this time around is order all the parts for one section (neck, body, or legs, etc.) and build that section once those pieces are in. Now why this may seem like a bad way to minimize cost, which it is, the reason I am doing this is because if I encounter any issues with the build of one section, I can immediately make modifications and focus purely on that section alone while my wallet restocks itself for the next section. I believe that this method will have its benefits that will cancel out its cons, and thus give me a stabler product. Another reason why I am choosing to do this is just in case Cavegod modifies one of his sections. A while back, around February-ish, he stated on the brick set forums (at least I think brickset), that he will be modifying the legs to make them sturdier. Now whether he did this or not is unknown, so I reached out to him and am awaiting his response. As of right now, there are no pieces in my hand that I can use for this MOC. However, I just placed a total of 7 bricklink orders totaling a bit over 700 pieces that will cover all pieces needed for the beast's head. I have decided to start with this because from what I've both heard and experienced, it is the trickiest to get right. This way I have plenty of time to make any adjustments if I notice a weakness that seems repairable, or even just a detail to the head that I want to be included, although there doesn't seem to be anything missing detail wise, credit to Cavegod! I will update as often as possible, mainly when I reach a breakthrough with the process, or when I place orders. I plan on this project taking quite some time to complete as I am going to try, and likely fail, to simply add this to my collection without giving up a current UCS set, although my Imperial Shuttle is a tempting sell for what it's worth! That being said, I am going to put a lot more effort into the AT-AT this time around as I now know that it will be much harder than just looking at LDD and putting the sections together.
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I've lit up the engine of my UCS Millennium Falcon: It's done using a cheap €2 set of 20 LEDs from a Euro store. I had to replace the 2x3 grey plates the trans-blue tile attach to with transparent parts (and as 2x3 clear plates cost a fortune, I built them out of 1x1s and 1x2s). After that, there was a bit of work to remove some parts that blocked the lights, and some internal parts to hold the wires in place. The battery box sits neatly under the top gun emplacement, where it's easily accessible to turn on/off or change batteries. For a fairly easy mod, I think the really adds something to the Falcon. James
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'Oh hello! My name is C-3PO, human cyborg relations!' Hi guys! This is my first post on the Eurobricks Star Wars forum, so I'm sorry if things aren't 100% legit. After I built the 10018 Darth Maul Bust I wondered if it was possible to make an UCS LEGO C-3PO bust. Inspired by Erik Varsegi's life sized LEGO C-3PO I built a 1:1 life sized bust that took me 3 months. I started with yellow LEGO bricks (ordered from Bricklink), which I spray painted gold afterwards for a realistic effect. I know a lot of you don't like painting your LEGO, but this is an exception, because I will never take the bust apart and use the bricks for other purposes. Besides, ordering these bricks in gold from Bricklink is incredibly expensive, because it contains 9000+ pieces and some bricks are not available in gold. C-3PO's head can turn 180° degrees. The top of his head is removable and the inside is hollow so you have acces to the eyes. And of course, his eyes lit up like in the movie! The bust weights about 12 kilograms (26,5 pounds). May the force be with you!
