Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'PF'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Frontpage, Forum Information and General LEGO Discussion
    • New Member Section - PLEASE READ BEFORE STARTING!
    • Frontpage News
    • Forum Information and Help
    • General LEGO Discussion
  • Themes
    • LEGO Licensed
    • LEGO Star Wars
    • LEGO Historic Themes
    • LEGO Action and Adventure Themes
    • LEGO Pirates
    • LEGO Sci-Fi
    • LEGO Town
    • LEGO Train Tech
    • LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
    • LEGO Action Figures
    • Special LEGO Themes
  • Special Interests
    • The Military Section
    • Minifig Customisation Workshop
    • Digital LEGO: Tools, Techniques, and Projects
    • Brick Flicks & Comics
    • LEGO Mafia and Role-Play Games
    • LEGO Media and Gaming
  • Eurobricks Community
    • Hello! My name is...
    • LEGO Events and User Groups
    • Buy, Sell, Trade and Finds
    • Community
    • Culture & Multimedia

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start



What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)

Which LEGO set did you recently purchase or build?



Website URL








Special Tags 1

Special Tags 2

Special Tags 3

Special Tags 4

Special Tags 5

Special Tags 6

Country flag

Found 247 results

  1. I have found this clever creation (by aeh5040) on youtube: It is not new (video added in 2011) but I haven't seen it before. This is so unconventional MOC!
  2. mtrkustoms

    MOC: Yellow Shunting Engine

    Hi all, I present my second train creation in bricks here An invented shunting engine to power my RENFE Bed-car 9600 Series This is not a nice, or real shunting engine, but works well and have enought torque to move the cars without problem. and work in all Lego train curves The motor is a 88002, that have more power that I thought, the tip is to put weight on it to prevent slippage of the wheels. Is full PF with a custom Li-Ion battery (2500mAh in this case) Detail of the custom PF Li-Ion Battery Pulling the Bed-car The No-Conventional coupling A Conventional Old-magnets coupling I hope you enjoy it
  3. ScotNick

    PF Motor with BBB XL Wheels

    Hi, I am currently working on a 4-4-2 steam engine and need some help. The base looks like this: I know that I can fit a 88002 PF Motor here, but the engine would run muuch too fast and wouldn't have much hauling power, so I wondered what I would have to do to get it to the same speed as the other PF trains, if possible. Is there a possibility, and how would I have to do that???
  4. Hey Today I will show you my new car, "one day project" (today build, tomorrow break). Is fast car for drag racing. For drive I'm use 2 Xl motor and two speed gearbox (difrencial gearbox=1 motor-1 gear, 2 motors second gear). Max. speed is 8,4 Km/h. :) Some pictures: And video:
  5. Hey all, As promissed in another topic I present you my Hot Rod: It's made out of the parts of 42000 and some other. Features: Remote drive with 2 RC motors and differential remote RTC streering with servo motor opening doors independant suspension on all wheels powered by LiPo and V2 reciever With the RC motors it actually is fast because I have kept the weight down were I could. some pics: more pics in my Flickr set: Greets Tibivi
  6. BlueberryWaffles

    TMNT Shellraiser Motorized

    Greetings, almighty people of the trains! I was wondering if anyone has motorized the TMNT Shellraiser. I know I saw it once with PF. I only have an old 9volt so I was wondering if that was possible and if anyone has done it. Pictures would be nice. (P.S. would it be possible to motorize the DeLorean? PF or 9volt?)
  7. Finally finished it, save for a few more smooth tiles coming from eBay. A couple of low quality pictures, while I take some decent images and make a short video. Stats: Length: 71 studs - Body only, excluding rear bucket Width: 36 studs Height: 23 studs – excluding munitions reloader Barrel length: 54 studs Elevation: -5 degrees +25 degrees Weight: 4.760 Kg 13 PF motors 3 switches 8 pairs PF lights 2 Battery boxes 183 181 182 184 179 Videos: In action - Iron Man gets shot. --- The functions.
  8. Well I thought I would post the results of my efforts today, nothing special but my son decided to get the monster fighters ghost train set with some of his Christmas money, and after he finished building it this morning he instantly said to me "can we add power functions daddy?" So here is the result, the other side isn't complete yet as I didn't have enough parts, I also had to raise the front by one flat so that the flangeless driving wheel didn't derail the train on the exit from bends, can't find a better solution for that yet! Let me know what you think! Cheers, Dave
  9. Hello! My Rescue Helicopter (9396) is about to be delivered ( ) and I have this idea to put enormous amount of LEDs in it. I have a plan to use Arduino to program proper blinking sequence. I was thinking about mounting also 2 M-motors to motorize rotor and functions. I would love to control them via Arduino but I do not have an idea how to connect motors in a proper way. Has anyone ever done it? Thanks in advance for any tips!
  10. Today I will show you, my "new" (Started 2 years ago) project. First I'm wanted to build fire truck, but late I'm change my mind, because I'm not have enaught bricks.:( So I built this truck. This have 4x4 drive, with full suspension and one Xl motor for drive. M motor for steering and pneumatic crane with 2 cylinder. And video:
  11. Hi all, I've finally bought a 7897 Passenger Train, which I want to run alongside my PF setup. I haven't received it yet, but I'm interested if it's possible to route the power from the included: "white train chassis 6x30 with IR Receivers integrated battery (6xAA)" (see below pic from LEGO/toysperiod). through to a PF IR receiver, then to either the included motor or a PF train motor (preferably without a (permanent) physical modification). From what little I know about IR, the unit may have to be receiving an "ON" IR signal from the remote by 'line of sight', to I guess my question is: Is there a logical/natural/clear/obvious/sensible way to bypass this? Thanks, LLL
  12. As rm8 mentioned, this month is "Month of Russian technics".So, let me be the 3rd with my new work that took me 8 months to do - Russian famous KAMAZ truck. Features: Front lights Scale - 1:16.7 RWD (like the real one) Width - 18 studs Ackerman steering (solid suspension on the front axle, based on 2Lego`s design) Differential on the rear axle (Classic technic suspension, don`t know how to name it) Many SNOT solutions like the front grill and the roof that were a very big headache. As for the technical solutions, the thing I`m very proud of is the steering mechanism.It was the biggest problem due to the weight of the cab, but the idea with using a minifig part decided it. Just to add, I have used some ideas from this work : http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=304715 My model: KAMA3 43253 by DB_Kit Fisto, on Flickr 1 by DB_Kit Fisto, on Flickr 3 by DB_Kit Fisto, on Flickr 4 by DB_Kit Fisto, on Flickr 2 by DB_Kit Fisto, on Flickr 5 by DB_Kit Fisto, on Flickr 6 by DB_Kit Fisto, on Flickr 7 by DB_Kit Fisto, on Flickr 8 by DB_Kit Fisto, on Flickr
  13. Hello, this is my first Technic project on Eurobricks, so please bear with me if it seems not as good as the other creations here. This is the Z-4 Titan. I created the Z-1 through 3 on NXTLOG, and you can see them in my NXTLOG Creations topic. This is my second true Trial Truck, though it isn't based off any real-life vehicle. The first one used the same steering axle design, and a non-steered rear axle. It also only had one XL motor, mounted sideways and using a complex gear train to reach the common driveshaft. It was somewhat underpowered and unreliable, not to mention top-heavy, so I removed the axles and redesigned the rest. I also took apart the non-steered rear axle and copied the front steering one. Now, the Titan has 2 XL motors mounted between the axles, and each motor drives one axle. The axles are both 4-link (I think that is the right name), and each have an M motor for steering. As such, they have no mechanical link to each other and so the steering easily gets out of sync. The suspension uses Unimog parts, and other than them, is completely my design. Each M motor is geared down 1:9. Here are some pics: Thanks for looking! All comments and criticism are welcome. Keep in mind my selection of panels is small, so I can't do that good of a body design.
  14. Hello. I want to present you my new creation - off-roader.The idea of ​​creating a large SUV was born by accident. I immediately decided that the model will be a large scale and motorized. This is my greatest work to date. Feautres: - 2 L-motor to the drive - Servo motor on the steering - IR receiver a new type, BB - M-motor for the winch Video: That's all. Thank you for your attention. Your Sicil.
  15. Winter is over (almost ), so I put away the track and get wheels. This is my fourth and best version of crawler. For drive I'm use 2 L motors (1:3 gear ratio) and one M for steering (1:3).
  16. On YouTube, CamsPL / Cams posted of his yellow Lego Technic Walking & Turning Biped (W&TB) Mecha model. It uses three Power Functions (PF) Medium motors to walk and turn. More on his Flickr photoset, and on his Brickshelf Gallery (when moderated). He also made the red Walking & Riding Biped (W&RB). which uses four Power Functions M-motors to make it "ride, walk, skate, and turn" : ( ) (Flickr photoset) (Brickshelf Gallery when moderated)
  17. Hey today I will show my new creation, tracked vehicle SV/T3 and modification, which has 4 extra wheels, for better grip. This vehicle have 4 tracks, articulated steering, two L motor for drive and one M steering (mini LA). :) First SV/T3: And SV/T3 "Extreme"
  18. On his "Sheepo's Garage" website, Sheepo posted Building Instructions for his Lego Technic Remote Controllers. The Power Functions controllers are comfortable to hold, and are versatile. He's counting the number of downloads, so go there for the PDF file! Thanks for sharing, Sheepo! The instructions were made by him and Jurgen Krooshoop.
  19. Hello. Someone did'nt like the implementation of the front end in the first version of Tumbler. She was too vertical in comparison with the original, so I decided to upgrade it, or rather lengthened by two pins, which allowed to set the servo motor horizontally. This allows me was able to reduce the slope of the front end. I hope so it looks better. That's all. Thank you for your attention. Your Sicil. Sorry for my bad english.
  20. Hi Guys A few days I got my self a 9398 set for only 989dkk(133 euros) in Bilka(a major supermarkedet store in DK). Anyway after I got home, I didn't play with the motors as I normaly would mainly because I simply wanted to build the 4x4 offroader. But after I had assembled the 2/3 of the set, I got some batteries in it, and fired it up. Thats when I got a bit annoyed/shocked/scared to notices that the front motor sounds much louder than the other motor. It some kind of of squick sound that, aint healty when compared to the other. Have anybody else notices different noises from the PF L Motor?
  21. Fiat 131 Abarth After a long period without lego mocs creating i present my lego versionb of the Fiat 131 abarth. First of all thanks to Sheepo´s MPS, without these designs i really have a lot of porblems and a lot of time to finish it. I used FA1B (Front Mcpherson) and RCD1 (Rear live axle) like the real one. I choose this car because my father hay the diesel version 131 "supermirafiori" when i was a child. The functions are: - 1 PF XL for traction - 1 PF M for direction with functional steering wheel - 1 PF M for the 2 speed gearbox (with indicator lever) - Rear and Front PF lights remotely controled by PF Body design is not very good but i can not do it better Front Rear General Door and rollcage details Engine detail with distribution chain and water pump Steering wheel and gear lever detail The video: For more pics: http://www.mocpages..../moc.php/345743
  22. Contents of this re-post were kindly resurrected from the 5 days of lost topics by Boneparte. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This is my MOC of the ubiquitous British Class 08 diesel shunter in 8mm:1ft scale. It has been eagerly awaited by those involved in the PF L-Motor discussion. I'm now at the stage where the functionality and basic body are there but I still have the trimmings to do - railings, ladders, fuel gauge, buffer beam and grille improvements, as well as cutting down the rods and their pins. On a Hornby layout these engines melt into the background so I wanted to make this a bit special. My plan was to create the model with 3 essential functions: - Maximum speed around the design speed of 20mph. - Minimum steady speed of 0.5mph for shunting at prototypical speeds. - Decoupling to remove "Hand of God" operation. The model contains a gearbox, actuated by a PF M-motor, which selects between high ratio, low ratio and decoupling. The drive motor is a PF L-motor and the wheels are from an Emerald Night set. Lots of traction with the red belts! I have put functionality before aesthetics as usual. The loco is in Cotswold Rail livery, of which no. 08871 is an example. i understand the company owns 6 of this class of loco. I took the easy route so far, just quantising the livery into brick widths and plate heights. As long as it's recognisable it'll do because I'm not trying to represent them. The grey with bright lettering will make a change from the green or blue of many other British locos. In order to create the functions, the two motors, gearbox and IR receiver have to fit inside. This means the model is slightly long for the scale but at least it fits into the required height and width. The length is grille + 2M of IR receiver + 8M of battery box + 7M of motors + gearbox + cab end. The coupling system can cope with the extra length so there is no compromise on shunting ability. The wheels are a bit small for the scale but this is common to other vehicles at this scale using standard LEGO train wheels. The Emerald Night wheels were selected for red-belt traction in preference to the larger BBB wheels that do not have a belt groove. The loco has two of the distinguishing features, the first is the yellow radiator grilles on the front. I could add more striped tiles to the side battery boxes later: The second is the yellow striped cab end, for which I cut up a few 1x4 tiles, ensuring that I could use both halves of every one I cut: The cab end windows would be nearer the sides on the real loco. This would be difficult to make, requiring a lengthways cut of 1x4 tiles and then a few 0.5x1 parts for the other side. This was a cut too far, but might be a sticker job for someone else. The IR receiver is nicely hidden at the front, behind the radiator grilles that open just like those of the real loco. This allows for changing channel. The grilles will pass IR light easily enough and I used clear plates behind them to also pass the light through to the receiver. It still needs care because the controller has to be able to see the front to operate it! I tested the loco through the fiddle yard of my large looped-eight layout. I think insufficient speed is a greater challenge than lack of IR controllability. I made an IR repeater circuit for use in tunnels. One criterion for exhibition is that the public should always be able to see a train moving at a show. Spending too long hidden in a fiddle yard will not do! Therefore I'm happy with this loco stayng on top in the yard, leaving other locos to do trip workings. I will take and post more internal pics in due course because I'm sure you'd like to see the gearbox! For now here's an underneath pic: You can see the coupling mechanisms using 2x8 plates with holes. These connect to the 9M racks that are supported by 5M black studless beams. From each rack there is an axle with a z16 cog on the rack and a z8 cog driven by a worm. The 2 worms are on an extended shaft driven by the gearbox and each has the same amount of play in its axial location. This allows lateral movement of the coupling over a limited range to cope with changes in the track curvature. The range is moved by the decoupling mechanism. In the picture the decoupling drive would send one coupling up and the other down or vice versa. The direction may be selected because the decoupling operation might take place on a curve in either direction. The z24 cogs keep the wheels in sync and the rods are more for show. I have a prototype where the rods did the work successfully. The drive omes from the gearbox onto the middle cog. This is in preparation for a test to see whether another chassis could be articulated whilst keeping the wheels in synce with the chain of cogs. This would have variable legth rods, a technique I used on by Class 14 loco. The idea of the articulation is that the chassis at the moment is the longest that can get round standard curves. It is also OK on flexitrack but needs to take care on points, especially with the moveable blade and the check rails. It would be nice to improve reliability of operation over points, especially for a shunting loco! The light bley parts with 2 pins each are the main Technic to stud connectors. Studded beams with holes are used in the cab and these hold the cab end body to the Technic parts of the gearbox. At the left hand end you can see some of the cogs in the cab, either side of the coupling 2x8 plate. I used 2x4 tiles and some hinge bases to hide varous cogs because they extend to more than 6-wide inside. One window is a composite for the same reason. The gearbox width is the reason the bodyside grilles by the cab windows currently stick out too far. I plan to revise that bit. On the roof the IR receiver plug is clearly visible on top of the PF LiPo battery box. I was pleased to be able to minimise studs on the roof on this occasion - a number of my trains might benefit from a refresh in this aspect, now that we have a good range of cheeses and curved parts. There is a 2x2 tile that sits proud, covering the on/off switch. Originally it was just the tile and a 1x1 round plate underneath but I added a minifig flipper to help the tile to stay in its slot. I might change this if another part is more suitable but it needs to have a small bit to actuate the button and a stud on top to attach the tile. I am particularly pleased with the crawling ability of this loco. It has been able to push a heavy loco with two depowered 9V train motors, enabling it to shunt locos as well as rolling stock. LEGO trains have had issues with crawling ability, either being unable to get enough torque at low speed or overheating 9V train motors in the process. Therefore this gearbox technique applies particularly to fans across the pond where trains go so slowly! I would put a gearbox in a larger loco so as to have a crawler gear and a high-speed gear. The gear ratio between low and high speed is currently 9:1 for 0.5mph minimum and 20mph maximum and is a squeeze in this loco, not so bad for a large loco. However, some motor torque is robbed by having the geartrain connected because in high ratio the motor has to turn the low ratio shaft 9x as fast! A higher ratio would suffer more in this respect, whatever the loco size, so a high speed of 60-70mph for a large loco (3x as high) would be a challenge. I have some ideas about this though. This is a true Power Functions loco - crammed in with a skin of bricks! I am considering whether adding lights is possible - there is a small space in the cab that might fit their 2x2 bricks! This folder has more whole-model pics and I will post some internal photos soon, but please let me know what you think so far. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Since the original post I am investigating whether it is possible to make the lower chassis flexible, allowing the front and rear wheels to steer. This will improve performance on curves and especially points. If it works I'll use flanged centre wheels and replace the rods with flexible ones more like those on my Class 14 loco (colour TBD). I deliberately made the drive from the gearbox go to the centre axle with this in mind so I hope the upper body doesn't have to change too much. The key at the moment is making the chassis pivot points rigid so that there is negligible vertical movement - just enough to work with a change of track slope. Mark