LvdH

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About LvdH

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  1. About 800 including extra parts. It’s mostly system parts and pins.
  2. Excellent alternate build! I will definitely build it after disassembing my Bugatti.
  3. Light Bluish Grey, the light grey colour used since 2004 and onwards.
  4. I usually don’t care much for cranes (or anything non-supercar really...), but that thing... wow!!! What’s the total part count?
  5. It looks like it. I’ve seen a picture on FB with the 42079 and a “pre launch” sticker on it.
  6. LvdH

    [MOC] Ferrari Testarossa

    Amazing model! My only complaint is the front grille/lights. They just look kind of odd. The headlights look too bulky and the grille is too flat. I do know that curved plates don’t exist, so it’s probably the best you can do without modifying parts.
  7. No, but I have a couple of those joints, and these are one of the strongest ones LEGO has...
  8. Those joints are ratcheting, so that means you can’t have (proper) suspension.
  9. Yes, that works, and no you don’t need the new red differential for it. It is however 1/10th stud or something too short to fit perfectly in a 7L space.
  10. That’s twice this year that a set has ended up in Legoland before release... I wonder how that could even happen.
  11. LvdH

    42080 Forest Harvester

    There’s no way €370 translates to $400 CAD for the Bugatti either, but that’s how it is.
  12. LvdH

    Show us your Working Place

    Here’s what I’m working with. I’ve got it all sorted in drawers. I tried cases, but it was much less efficient because you’ll need much more space on your desk. Connectors, gears, pins, thin liftarms, panels and axles are all sorted by shape, with the exception of a few parts I don’t have enough of to fill a drawer. Liftarms are sorted by shape in these bigger drawers. That is also where I build. I have everything at hand and plenty of space for huge builds. And while I was taking pictures, thought I might as well showoff share my collection. I don’t think I’ve shared all of these here yet. Here's what I've been doing the last 3 years. From left to right: Set 8444. Pagani Huayra by F. Hartley. Koenigsegg One:1 by VKTechnic. Chopped Hot Rod by Crowkillers. In the back I have a car lift by Sheepo and Smart Fortwo by Artemy Zotov. There’s also the remains of a Porsche in the drawers I was having a little issue with this picture because it's shot in portate mode, if I posted it in 600x800 resolution half the picture would be missing, if I posted the original it would be way too big. I decided to just downsize and link it, so click the picture if you want to have a better look. From top to bottom: McLaren P1 by TheMatiss56 Ford Mustang by Sheepo Lamborghini Aventador by Stefan Betula Ultimatum GTR V10 by PvdB Ferrari F40 by Jorgeopesi Mercedes 300SL by Sheepo Aston Martin DB11 by Jeroen Ottens Land Rover Defender by Sheepo There are also some small sets and mocs, not really worth mentioning.
  13. You can definitely motorise it, it’s just a question of how much do you want to modify? RacingBrick already made one RC mod with a BuWizz, which left the gearbox in tact but wasn’t used to change the speed. I’d follow the 42083 Mods and improvements topic. You’ll definitely see some popping up at some point.
  14. Actually, while the blue clutch does engage with the old extension ring, it creates a lot of friction when it’s in a build because the “clutch” part of the gear is less than half a stud inside (the gear is 1 stud, and because of the bit of plastic separating the two halves it means less than 0.5 stud), while the extension part is more than that... That’s the same with the red ones, and might also be the reason for LEGO making the yellow extension ring.
  15. Have you put the driving rings on the smooth connectors correctly? You can put them one of two ways. One has quite a bit more friction. Put it on, then remove it and rotate it 90°. If it’s smoother, great, if not rotate it 90° again and it will be smooth. This is because the smooth axle connectors have a roundish side and a flat side, and the driving rings have little notches that make it click on ridgded connectors. What you want is to have the notches on the flat side. That way they barely/don’t touch the axle connector and it should work better. By the way, regarding the shocks, I think you might have used newer shocks which are stiffer