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From Brickcatch: Official Name: Land Rover Classic Defender SKU : 10317 Pieces: 2336 Theme: LEGO Icons Age: 18+ Years Price: $239.99 Release Date: 1st April 2023 Hopefully it should be of the same scale as the Mustang/Camaro. It should also include the following: Opening passenger doors Steering mechanism Opening rear door/hood
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The Lunar Year of Tiger! The Land Rover Defender 90 and 110 are coming as Electric Vehicle. Don't miss the Footage! Click to Watch With Camellia Mini Controller to control 2 DC motors and 2 Servo Motors. www.camellia.xin Copyright © Camellia Café 2016-2021 Camellia Café and its LOGO are registered trademarks. -
How do you like my motorized Land Rover? I have tried to hide all electronics completely and keep all original functions. I would really have liked to make it 4WD with diffs, but there is not that much space to hide motors and other stuff in this model even if it is quite big. So for now it is only rear Wheel drive with a straight axle without diff. I might try with a Buwizz instead of Powered Up and add some more functions. Maybe a working winch and some lights? Video available at Youtube Instructions available at Rebrickable -
Hello Eurobrickers, Finally I am ready to present my latest MOC, the so called Bruiser Conversion of the 4-door Jeep Wrangler. The real thing is done by JK Crew, it looks like this (more awesome pictures here): The conversion includes pimped up suspension, a longer body on the rear part, turned into a pickup, and larger wheels. As for the scale, the real Jeep Wrangler has around 80 cm wheels, and the conversion has around 110 cm wheels. I thought this would be an excellent material for an alternate build from the 42110 Land Rover set because of the color match and the available parts (like those rear mudguards), and the 80 mm wheels of the Defender, and the 107 mm Lego tractor tires result in a good 1:10 scale match. I thought it would deserve the large tires and a motorization, all available in the set 42099. So I ended up with two versions: - Manual version, pure alternate build from 42110, with an optional raised geometry and large tires - RC version that is a dual alternate with 42099 I will present both versions below. They are identical on the outside, they differ in the chassis build and the gearbox / drivetrain. Manual version (42110 alternate) I wanted to build something from the Land Rover that has a more aggressive suspension with large articulation. I have been playing with the idea of 4-link suspensions on both axles, and the 8 A-arms in the set are just enough for that. However, I had to do it with short springs only, so I used similar geometry as the rear axle of Grohl's stadium truck, but with longer lower links on both axles. Furthermore, I wanted to build it in a way that works both with the stock Defender wheels, and with larger ones. So I built a chassis in a way that the springs can be positioned in two places, and the suspension geometry becomes lower or higher. Along with this, the front axle is also moved one stud to the front, to make space for the steering of the front wheel (just like in the real version). As such a suspension requires a lot of space (if you want large articulation), the actual useful space in the middle of the model becomes relatively short. I wanted to preserve the same functions of the gearbox as in the Defender, so I had to compact it. Taking ideas from the Pimp my Land Rover project I managed to create a version of it that fits into the available space, keeping the same layout of the controls. Furthermore, I have included a functional V8 engine (the real one has a V8 Corvette engine). One part that I struggled with a lot was the HoG steering, as it was quite hard to bypass the gearbox and the front seats as well. Finally I managed to do it under the seats, but I could not fit a functional steering wheel as the chassis structure that holds the front suspension was just in the middle of its way. The interior came out quite clean and also replicates the real one quite well I think. The seats are similar to those of the Defender, but I had to make them shorter, as the roof is also shorter: On the outside one key point is that the real thing (at least this version) has its doors made of steel bars (which gives it a great look I think). This is good as the Defender would not have enough green panels to build 4 doors, but the bar doors could be built (at first I did not think I could get such a clean look, but I am quite happy with the result). On the front, I reused some ideas from my Willys Jeep, but changed it to a bit more modern look. On the rear part, the fender piece was an obvious fit, and I wanted to emphasize the bed with system parts, which also came out nicely I think. At first the A and B pillars and the roof was tricky to make solid, as it is only built from a few liftarms. But the final assembly is super strong, thanks to the column in the middle that goes through the gearbox (that was a key structural element to make). The model can be lifted safely with the roof. Some side panelling was also tricky to get into place, but I am satisfied with the overall looks. The doors, the hood and the tailgate are openable. The spare wheel fits nicely in the bed. One last feature I could add thanks to the Defender parts is the front bullbar with a compact functional winch (with rachet mechanism). Here are some side-by-side images for a comparison. I think it works well with both wheel options. More info, pictures and building instructions are available on Rebrickable. RC version (42110 + 42099 alternate) For the RC version I decided to use components from set 42099 as it has everything required: XL motors for torque, heavy-duty CV joints, planetary hubs, more A-arms and hard springs for suspension and the few extra parts in black color. First of all, I wanted to motorize it in a way that I keep the interior and the functional fake engine as well. Second, I wanted to add a simplified gearbox. The placement of the battery was obvious in the bed, the steering motor would go onto the front axle, but the space required for the two (coupled) XL motors was less obvious. Finally, I could squeeze them under the rear seats, and place the gearbox in front of them into the drivetrain. As for the gearbox, incorporating a 2-speed one (hi/lo gear) was simple, but I wanted to do something more with the available parts. Finally, I managed to add an RWD/AWD switch. For this, gearbox routing is a bit tricky, going through itself through idler clutch gears, and returning later. Furthermore, the front and rear parts of the driveshaft rotate in opposing directions, which is resolved later by the proper placement of the differentials on the axles. It was really challenging to brace the whole gearbox properly so that the gears cannot skip anywhere, I had to rebuild and test it several times (those two coupled XLs have a lot of power). On the downside, I suspect the relative complexity of the gearbox add some friction to the system. As I wanted to maximize ground clearance, the front axle was tricky to build, since the planetary hubs can only be connected with ball joints when steered. For this, I applied the trick used by other as well, that slants the lower A-arms a bit, resulting in very slightly non-vertical front wheels, but it is so negligible I bet you'd never notice. The resulting axle is fairly slick, I am happy with the result. As the steering motor made the front axle higher, the functional piston engine had to be minimized as well, and I could only do a mini V6 with the available parts. Unfortunately, this small construction does not run super smooth in a V configuration (sometimes the 2L liftarms in the main shaft kind of collide into the half pins that make up the pistons for a moment, instead of smoothly pushing them up; the inline configuration with the same technique works smoother). For this reason, there is some friction resulting from driving the fake engine as well. Here is the final chassis, and one more image about the ground clearance at the rear: Although the final gearbox construction is strong enough not to let the gears skip, there is one weak link: the driving ring can move out of the clutch gear under very high torque (although in my tests the model sooner went up the wall if not blocked). This is because the gear stick does not firmly hold it in place. However, it can be solved by fixing it into one position with a linkage coming out of the center column. This issue made me think how much more powerful it could be if the gearbox and the fake piston engine was bypassed, and eventually led to the construction of a heavy-duty variant (in which the gearbox is still kept, but instead controls the speed of the fake engine, when not in neutral). The heavy-duty variant is further geared down a bit to have even more torque. It can climb almost everything if the ground clearance permits, as you can see quite a few cases in the video. A few more images about the whole model: More info, images and building instructions are available on Rebrickable. Let me know how you like it! Cheers, Viktor -
Hi Guys! I'm happy to present you my (first) alternate model of the Mercedes G500 (set 42177) into a classic Defender 90! A classic Defender has been on my todo list for a long time, I have tried it with set 42110 as well, but certain details just did not work out (oversized fender pieces relative to wheels), but with the G500 set I finally went for it as the parts are quite okay for making the iconic details of this model. Due to the orange color, the model was heavily inspired by modern variants in classic shape, such as the Heritage version, which does exist in almost exactly this color. Let me take you through the design process as well, but to start off, here's a video to showcase all the features! Features 4-link live axle suspension on both axles all wheel drive with central and rear differential lock 3+R gearbox in an H pattern working inline 4 piston engine working steering wheel and HoG openable doors with functional locks, including the rear clean interior with seats and classic benches in the rear section numerous accessories such as roof rack, reflectors, toolbox, cans, ladder, spare wheel, snorkel, spade and axe Design process Bodywork As already usual for me with these kind of models, the design started with the bodywork to see whether it is possible to make a good looking model using the parts of the source set. This was done in Studio to be able to easily build in the air. Certain parts were key, such as the trapezoid panels to be able to make the hood (actually I already suspected this possibility when I heard about the G-class as it has a similar hood shape). Then I tried the front face / lights / grille. Luckily the source set has an unusually high number of 1x2 grille tiles, just enough to make the entire large grille (which had to become even width because of the 1x2 part). Also, enough clear parts to make the light cluster, even the luxury of choosing from 2x2 and 3x3 dishes, somehow the smaller ones looked better for me, but they are actually exchangeable. Next was the fenders. This was critical, since the Defender has a distinct shape of fenders, with angles / curved shape that are different from the 4x6 angled beam used in the G500, so using those parts was out of the question. Also, the set did not have enough 112.5 degree angled connectors, which would have been perfect for the job, so I had to resort to different technique to make the angle. Luckily, there were just enough black connectors in the set, which could be used with some tricky mounting points. Another key detail was the curved slope running through the sides; to see whether there's enough material for that and whether it can all be connected firmly to the rest of the body. Especially the door are was tricky, where I also had to pay attention to allow it to close easily. The new angled connectors also came in handy to add that small but important detail to the side windows, which is best seen on the rear view. So slowly the sides and front got together, and using the curved black panels, I just managed to put together a convincing roof shape too. Last I made the rear door/windows, where I also managed to model those little side windows while allowing the door to be openable. At first I did not want to bother with door locks, I did not find them very convincing on the A model, but then I saw that all alternate builds do it, so I thought I had to give it a try, and I am happy I did. I tried to make a more realistic and smooth mechanism than the A model, and I stumbled upon a simple way that opens by pushing the handle down. It works like a charm, and I managed to replicate it for the rear door too. Chassis, drivetrain, suspension Once the body was looking nice and the dimensions were known, I started thinking about the internals. First the suspension. The rear suspension was the part in the A model which was the most underwhelming for me. Even though there is a ton of space at this scale, the linkage geometry is just unrealistic; it even binds up if there is no weight on it because of too much constraints (triangulated upper links plus a Panhard rod constraining the axle at different heights is just physically impossible). The use of that new suspension arm feels out of place, a simple parallel 4-link with long 9L links and the Panhard rod could have been much simpler and realistic at the same time. Another thing I don't like there is the chassis rail geometry and the spring mounting. The chassis rails are unrealistically tall along with the springs which end up being in the middle of the trunk. Again, I was thinking, at this large scale, in a manual model, it should be possible to make something more realistic. So that's what I aimed for, if even with the part restrictions of the set. In a chassis with live axles squeezing in the 3x19 frame is a bit more difficult as longitudinal space is a luxury because the axles need more space, but it turned out to be just okay. So I aimed for a solid but slim / flat chassis railing that does not protrude into the bed area in the rear. As for the suspension linkage, I used the short ones on the front, and for the rear, I used longer ones to allow the lower ones to pass under the frame. I also moved the springs out to keep the bed clean. In this model I did not aim for long travel anyway, as I wanted to keep the body lowered on the wheels, to look more realistic, unlike the overly lifter G500. I mean it's nice to have that long travel, but when it comes at the cost of obscuring both the chassis / spring geometry and the fenders at the same time, then something does not feel right. I think the core of the problem is using these short springs all the time instead of bringing back longer softer ones. With these short ones it's not possible to build live axles with realistic geometry unless the spring ends up in the middle of the chassis / trunk, which is no good. Once the suspension geometry was sorted, I moved onto the drivetrain / gearbox. The most challenging part. To make something true to the real world model, I definitely wanted an H pattern gearbox with a reverse gear. On one hand the availability of the new 12T clutch gear in the set made this possible, as it allows to move one of the 4 gears out of the connected gear-train and reverse it without effecting the others. On the downside, the set is quite short on various gear sizes (no 24T and 8T gears typically used in 3+ speed gearboxes), so actually making the 3-speed part was more difficult, I had to use a longer train of gears which made things harder to route and brace, caused some weird friction issues as well, and also I used up most of the gears in the set. The inclusion of a central differential with lock also complicated things, so I just settled from a bottom operated lock, as in case of the rear axle anyways. Another difficulty with a 3+R gearbox in an H pattern is where to put the reverse gear. The problem with the more obvious / favorable 1-2-3-R positions is that the reverse gear gets opposite to the 3rd gear, which means it will naturally become similar speed as the 3rd gear, which is unrealistic. So I went with the R-1-2-3 pattern, which allows the reverse gear to be similar speed as the 1st gear which is realistic. On top of all, the HoG steering axle also had to pass through the chassis. Luckily, I could avoid routing it through the middle, colliding with the gearbox, rather on the side instead. This is because the steering is based on a linkage, as in case of real live axles, which is actuated from one side (where the steering wheel is) to the other. It turned out, that I had free space on the right side of the gearbox, which was lucky, because then I could put the steering wheel and the HoG routing to the right side, which is just a good match for the Defender being an English brand (interestingly, mirroring the gearbox would not work because then the H pattern would also get mirrored which would be unrealistic for the gear sequence). In the end I ran out of gears, so I had to use some tricky linkages to get the steering wheel move. I even had to resort to using the 20T clutch gear on a friction pin, which works okay when using the HoG and it moves the steering wheel in the cabin, but the steering wheel could not be used to steer the model (though can be fixed by swapping that green gear to a proper 20T one). An interesting thing about the build is that the actual gearbox submodule turned out the be a single piece dropped in between the chassis frames. Interior and accessories The final touches were the interior, and some extra accessories to make the model more interesting, less plain. As for the interior, besides the usual front seats, I definitely wanted to make sideways benches in the rear section. Luckily enough, there was enough DBG material to make these happen. As for the extras, an obvious one was the spare wheel and the roof rack, but I also added a ladder on the side, making sure that it (and the spare wheel) still allows the rear door to open. I also took some inspiration from the Icons Defender to mount some tools (spade and axe) to the hood, and add a toolbox and some cans on the top. Also a simple snorkel mountable to the A pillar. Here are some photos to showcase it in real life. More images are available on Bricksafe. Building instructions are available on Rebrickable. Let me know how you like it! Cheers, Viktor
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After seeing lots of different takes on the Land Rover (of various eras) I was inspired to design a minifig-scale version of the Series 2 for my nascent 1950s British village. LDD instructions are available here: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Zetroc
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Hey everyone, As soon as I saw the defender set and heard about its ambitious gearbox I knew I was gonna get it! Loved the set but felt that it didn't show off its engineering enough so I set off on building a B model for it. It has two speed gearboxes for each arm and a four speed gearbox for the turntable. Still has a few tweaks needed but for the most part all major mechanisms are in place. It's based off the design of my V2 spirograph which makes use of the sets differentials. I was worried about the stability of it as it is hand cranked, however I was pleasantly surprised with the results. The finished prints almost hide imperfections when viewed as a whole. I love this set, looking forward to see what others come up with. Once I am happy with everything I will make some intsructions and a full video of it, just wanted to share it with you all. Peace:) -
A scene of a Land Rover Defender rescuing a fishing boat from the frozen waters of the Arctic. Bravery or foolishness? Originally an entry built for the "Show Us Your Land Rover In Heroic Moments" contest on LEGO Ideas. (To my luck, it won as a runner-up! ) I suppose the LEGO model speaks for itself, so I'll do away with the descriptions. More images can be found here.
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Dimensions: 29.5 x 49 x 30 studsWeight: 1524 g Instruction: download here To see all my ongoing projects follow me on instagram @anton.kablash Functions: 0. In the model i kept original chassis with improvements and adjustments HoG 4-speed sequential gearbox All wheel drive with 3 differentials Independent suspension on both axles Working detailed in-line 6-cylinder engine Working steering wheel in the cab Openable doors, hood The driver's cab can be tilted for access to a detailed V6 engine Working doors locks Detailed exterior and interior -
I was preparing this for over a week and more is coming soon (outdoor reviews will be available on saturday 5.10.2019 and next wednesday 9.10.2019 ). The more i'm playing with LEGO, the more i'm getting addicted. I would appreciate if you could give me a subscribe! Build time of 42100: 9 hours ( 4108 parts ) Build time of 42110: 6 hours ( 2573 parts ) LEGO 42100 Liebherr R 9800 Excavator | Test Drive with Cat Food LEGO 42100 Liebherr R 9800 Excavator | Outdoor test - do not this at home! It hurts. LEGO 42110 Land Rover Defender Speed-Build & Functionality Showcase LEGO 42110 Land Rover Defender Outdoor Test LEGO 42100 Liebherr R 9800 Speed-Build LEGO Technic Control+ App Review | Easy tutorial how to use it First unboxing of 42100 & 42110 ( I was first on youtube :D )
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Hi, Since I read in another thread that you guys like WIP threads, I decided to put out my alternate of the Land Rover set as I am making it. As the set has a great array of suspension related parts, I wondered what kind of an off-roader could I build with a fundamentally different suspension than the original model. Given the green color, the Willys Jeep looked like a good choice. I like its simple and symmetric chassis, and I have never built a leaf spring suspension before, but it seemed definitely possible with 8 A-arms in the set. The gearbox parts of the Land Rover set also allow for lots of possibilities to build. I did some research, and found out that besides the gearbox, the Willys Jeep has a hi/lo gear selector, and also an RWD/4WD switch, all seemingly possible from the Land Rover. The engine is an inline 4. Here is my progress so far, maybe I am throwing it in a bit late in the process, but at least the bodywork is already getting recognizable. I managed to build the leaf spring suspension for both live axles, and I squeezed in a 4 speed H shaped manual gearbox, as well as the RWD/4WD switch and the hi/lo gear selector into a fairly packed design. The steering is functional, and there's also HOG steering. The inline 4 engine is functional, the hood opens and the windshield is foldable. Let me know what you think! Cheers!
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Here's my replication of the classic Range Rover 3 door Info: Scale: 1:13 Size: L35, W15, H16, cm Weight: 1069g Parts: 1085. Video: Features: - 4x4 - Dependent suspension - Panhard rods on both axles - Opening doors, bonnet, tailgate - Adjustable seats - Modular construction - Remote control with PF: 2L, Servo, IR, LiPo. Original truck: Building Instruction can be found on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-79523/paave/range-rover-classic/#details -
Hi everyone, I have finished my Willys Jeep alternate of the Land Rover set, so I'd like to summarize the final model here. Features: - Live axle suspension with imitated leaf springs on both axles. It uses one shock absorber per wheel, also positioned realistically. I also tried to construct the core frame as is in the real life car. - Manual 4-speed gearbox in a classic H-shape. Additionally, there is a Hi / Lo gear switch and an RWD / 4WD switch, just like in the real car, and the positioning of those switches is as realistic as I could get with the limited space. The whole gearbox is in the middle of the chassis. - Working inline 4-piston engine as in reality, I tried to add engine details modelled after the real engine. - Functional steering wheel and also HOG steering in the back (which had to pass through the gearbox). - Foldable windshield and opening hood with stander included. I managed to get the windshield folding joint similar to reality. - The interior is clean and I tried to get the shape of the seats as close to reality as I could, although the square and flat front seats were hard to reproduce with the available parts in that color. - Detachable roof, again, I tried to reproduce the shape of the tubing. - Extras: Jerry-can on the back, and of course the spare wheel. More details about the design process are given on Rebrickable. Here's a video showcasing the functions: And some renders and photos: Building instructions are available on Rebrickable. Feedback is welcome! Cheers!
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After multiple failures at creating a compact driven independent for a Chevy Suburban, I paused that project and started to make a Bowler Defender. For those who don't know, a Bowler Defender starts out as a Land Rover Defender 90 or 110, then it gets tricked out with rally spec parts and gets a full engine tune. I have tried to mimic the original chassis. This build is intended to perform well, just like the real one, so it has four L motors powering it. To show the similarities here is an image of the real chassis. I will try to update this topic every few days. -
Hello everybody, my good friend Captain Furo published two very cool cars on Cuusoo − have a look at them if you're interested, and please support him if you like what you see. They're really good IMO. Land Rover Trophy: http://lego.cuusoo.c...deas/view/52964 Chaparral 2J: http://lego.cuusoo.c...deas/view/53643 All the best, LL.
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Hi Guys, Having put my first moc online (it's the 8280 B model) http://www.flickr.com/photos/lakop I'm now hooked on the chassis. It's got something land rover about it. i've googled land rover conversions and there are so many. I will try a six wheeled version, a military version and I will keep going and see what I can do. This design has got lots of potential. I will see what, if any, functions I can add to it. Maybe a small pnuematic. Thoughts, and your own mocs, more than welcome. H
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Hi folks, Just found this cool crations on Levi Movie channel. Looks like chassis and axles are based on 9398 model, may be i am wrong... And those bodies are detailed copies of real cars -
Here is my take on the motorization of the 42110. Basically the whole model was lifted to accomodate the bigger wheel, motors and BuWizzes. Model is powered by a total of 8 motors, 4L motors for RWD, 2L motors for FWD, one servo and one M motor. Total gear ratio is 1:3. It uses custom portal hubs in the front which have a pivot even closer than normal ones thanks to the new rims. Rear uses normal hubs and wheels, since they are sturdier. Axles use the original suspension's upper arms as mounting points along with a pair of 9L links for each axle. The original gearbox is connected to the rear drive, so it works normally. Steering is also connected to the original links, so steerign wheel and HOG also turn when steering Winch is motorized using an M motor. Video coming soon.
