allanp

Really? A foot pump usually gets to over 100psi, not that I would recommend filling 1 liter pop bottles to that pressure of course

Have you considered using 1 liter fizzy pop bottles and a foot pump?

Yup, that's probably the most efficient way. Or you could have 24t top and bottom with a 20t idler.

Awesome work man, congrats!

What do you mean by 9v speed regulator? The old 9v train controller used for metal tracks (with the big yellow dial) will not work with the servo motor. The newer pf lipo battery will (by turning it on and turning the orange axle hole) and I assume the newer 6AAA battery box found in the newer train sets will work the same way as well. The newer train remote control (with the 2 orange dials) will control up to 2 servos when the servos are plugged into an IR receiver which is powered by a battery box.

3: 10 10: 6 7: 4 6: 3 14:2 1: 1

Yes.

Pretty much every Lego set sold on the shelves today have a couple Technic parts thrown in which allows for strength or movement of something. I suppose you would consider the nexo knights castle a Technic castle? The city crane is focused mostly on play and slightly on function, which is why city sets are far more likely to come with minifigures so kiddies can act out......crane.....stuff. However the Technic crane is firstly focused on function despite it also having inherent play value. Hence why this crane doesn't have minifigures but it does have more strength and stronger strings and ratchets on the winches and more winches so that it can far better function as a crane.

Accepted by AFOLs or not, that's probably won't have much impact on TLGs decision to release one if it makes good business sense.

A batmobile? I really really hope not. I mean, we have waited so long and asked so many times for a huge UCS Technic set. Now that it looks as though we might be getting one, isn't there soooooo many better things to build than a batmobile? What about a Lamborghini Aventador or Land rover defender or if not a car, and JCB back hoe or a space shuttle. It just seems a bit ridiculous. Did they not even see MOS? It sucked! But oh well, think positive! OK, so if it is indeed a batmobile (I really don't believe that it is but this is speculation!) best case scenario for me would be: Brand new and authentic 6 speed transmission, suspension, authentic steering geometry of real life super cars, if it must be RC then make it RC, with better RC motors and controllers and have the 6 speed transmission be sequential and fully operated by remote, new much stronger drive line components like diffs and CV joints, new larger and deeper wheels to properly accommodate the larger CV joints and authentic steering, and possibly new planetary gear reduction hubs mounted inside the large rear wheels with have a tread pattern and size suitable for large JCB builds. Yup, I am asking for those things again and it's a lot, but they are going to charge a lot for it so I want a lot in return. A box of 3'500 mostly black Technic bits with nothing new will not make me want to pay even half the price they would likely charge for it. I suppose it'll be a mix of black, very very dark grey and colour vomit. On the bright side, given the possible features list I came up with for this set, it is possible that it could be a batmobile and still be a truly great set. On the other hand, it could be like the ferrari sets, all Technic bits and not worth the name Technic, only this time, with a pf xl motor for drive, servo for steering, rc (and that's pretty much your lot for functions), 2 - 3 times the price and as ugly as a squashed rat. So yeah, if it is a batmobile, it could be absolutely fantastic all the way down to worst Technic set ever. Only time will tell.

If the IP car is as costly as the rumour suggest, then there better be some crazy awesome new parts in it. I'm not talking about existing parts in new colours either.

Interesting note about the interior of the real fire house, it's not the interior we see in the movie. The interior scenes were shot in a different fire house. The beginning of GB2 (the party with the kids) was also shot inside the upstairs living quarters of the same building. http://www.theraffon.net/~spookcentral/loc_ca_firehouse.htm

The issue I have with any kind of lubrication is that it can (and usually does) get on your fingers making it harder, not easier and also, whilst you maybe reducing the force required to push the hoses on, you are also reducing the force required for them to pop off.

Dragster looks as though it could do with one more design iteration to get it looking right, but with tumbler wheels, rare colours and the possibility of a new gearbox I think I'll be getting one or two. I can see a 3M axle on the fire trucks crane arm. I hope they aren't making the colour vomit situation even worse!

I can't find the pictures on techlug EDIT: sorry, found em

Triangular is better and also more your own design.

Looking at the yellow crane you posted above, the front legs extend high above the the deck so that cables can be hung over the top to create a very rigid triangle shape. you can then tension the cables so there is no bending of the crane. You can even make it bend up a little with more tension so that the crane levels out whilst under load.

Will you extent the legs and mount the cables? That will make it a lot stronger.

Correct.

Only 2 days since your first post and you are asking for designs for your axles? This is not good. Not trying to be rude, I would really like to see you succeed in designing and building this massive crane yourself. There is absolutely no way you have reached your current design potential after only two days of work in LDD. Give yourself more time to be the great designer that you can be, you got this man, so JUST DO IT!

I found the most important thing is probably the simplest, wash your hands! Over the course of the day, you'll likely have a wash in the morning and build your Lego sometime in the evening. Between the morning and the evening the natural oils in he skin build up and make gripping the small T pieces and hoses quite difficult. So I always wash my hands right before doing any pneumatic work to get rid of the natural oils in the skin. I have naturally oily skin so for me it makes a big difference. I know other people use some spit (gross!) to make the hoses slide on easier, but that also makes your hands more slippery and also makes the hoses pop off easier.

This guy? http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2092750/Marine-Corp-Captain-Kyle-Ugone-sets-Lego-collection-world-record-1-091-completed-sets.html

This is what I am hoping for (I know, what a shocker!), but after never having a single set in the 1H with a gearbox we now get two in one year. I am thinking/hoping that the reason is because once TLG release a new part, they want to use it in more than one set. Also hoping the new parts of the Arocs make an appearance in the 2H as well.

LDD is a great tool, but not for this project. It's size, weight and structural stability are going to be some of the problems you will have to deal with. LDD will not help you there. Take for example the slewing of the boom or the drive to the wheels. These functions due to the size and weight are going to put huge strain on gears and axles. Slewing (rotating) the crane might require a custom built turntable with rollers and multiple drives. But you don't know yet. This is why you need to build a functional proof of concept that doesn't have to look anything like the finished model, but it will have all the functions and will give you an idea of how best to go forward. Here's an artical on how they designed 8043 over at TechnicBRICKS. http://www.technicbr...43-part_19.html

If you are already planning for it to be a long build, I suggest you build a full size, fully featured prototype that looks like utter crap. Have you ever seen the first prototypes for some official Technic sets? They look horrendous, but the point of them is to find out all the problems you are going to run into and then to solve them. After you have done that you can build a second version where it starts to take on the shape of a finished model, then you build a third version and as many versions as it takes to get your finished model. The point is, for now don't concern yourself with what it looks like or having all the parts being the same colour. Just be sure to finish it so that it is complete and working before you move on the next version, and repeat as needed.