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allanp

Eurobricks Grand Dukes
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Everything posted by allanp

  1. Yup, clips are on the outside. There is much less slop in the new one, hardly any, but still turns smooth and freely.
  2. If you was referring to a post I made, I cut some blue hoses (not any other hoses, only blue ones) to make them fit neater and with less chance of kinking, not to make them miss any gears. Having said that, by cutting the hoses the way I have, the blue hose that runs next to the gear is under very slight tension, keeping it straight and away from the gear. I have not tried it with uncut hoses so I can't compare but the pneumatics in my model work fantastically. A word of caution before cutting hoses, I have not seen the instructions for the B-model so if I wish to build it, I may have to use hoses from my own stock as these may now be too short.
  3. TLGs customer service will sort this out for you if you want to wait for parts, it's up to you. I had one small connector piece missing, which was a common piece so I just used one from my collection. If it's a part I don't have many of already, I'de still finish it (if nothing else to see if any other parts are missing) and then call Lego and replace the part(s) when the new one arrives, or just put the new part(s) "in stock".
  4. I guess it all depends where you draw the line between useful new addition and too specialised. We could build a universal joint out of many non standard parts just like we could these new outrigger parts, but it wouldn't be as good.
  5. Creating strength out of single large parts is what they do in real life. A chassis rail in a truck in real life is one vast part for strength. I wouldn't call that cheating, just a good idea. At nearly 2800 there is still lots left to build
  6. Yes. Ha, I've just taken those parts out whilst converting it to 8 wheel drive.
  7. Remember guys, this will only be the first half sets.
  8. Regarding the pins, with some sets, like 42030 in particular, there was very little mechanical variety, or mechanics at all relative to it's size. Call it a mechanical density index if you like to sound smart! So it really felt like just putting pins into beams, repeat over and over again. with sets like the arocs and the unimog, you get lots of mechanical complexity as well as a large variety of mechanics, like gears and transmission, live axle suspension linkages, pneumatics and so on, so it keeps the build fun and interesting. Despite the arocs being the largest official technic set it really was a far better build than most other builds so you don't really notice all the pins. With other sets I thought "this is taking ages and I'm bored" but with the arocs it was "this is gonna take ages, I like it!". So the number of pins is one variable, which like many variables in life is meaningless unless you take all other variables into account.
  9. First check your routing of hoses for kinks and hoses connected to the wrong ports. If this all checks out time to check for worn out parts. Hold a retracted piston in one hand and block the top port. Now with the other hand, try to pull the rod out. It will move quite far as the air compresses but if the seals are good it shouldn't be able to move all the way out. If you can fully extend it without too much difficulty the seals are probably old and worn out. A small amount of silicone base oil will put some life back into the seals. Do not use petroleum based like 3 in 1 oil or WD40 as they will corrode the seals. If your cylinders are ok then check your pump to see if it is making any pressure. All pumps in good condition generate over 30 psi, most over 40 psi. If cylinders and pumps are sound check the valve for leaks. You can do this by submerging them in water whist pressurised. However, do not connect you piston to the valve otherwise there is a slight chance of it sending water to your piston and you may confuse exhaust bubbles for leak bubbles. Instead block the ports and pressurise the valve as you would in normal use. With the ports blocked and the valve pressurised there should only be bubbles when switching from one valve position to the other. There maybe a few small bubbles, that's fine but a big burst of bubbles every pump means a knackered valve. Keeps us posted.
  10. There was also some released in sets like 8094 and 8868 which used a "K" number. I think it was the number of studs in diameter, so a K4 would be 4 studs or roughly 32mm. These were a stiff silicone type. The "K" numbering system was also used on standard rubber bands I think.
  11. That did come to mind when I read it back to myself
  12. Not really. They will be available at other online stores for less than you'de pay at toys'r'us.
  13. What you have there is the awesome end result of a 10 times more awesome build by an infinitely more awesome person. This whole thread is made of awesomeness and I can't wait for the next build. It's gonna be awesome!
  14. Maybe the pneumatic parts are made out of house like the PF parts if I'm not mistaken, which is why they come in their own bag? I dunno, just speculating now. Good luck, and may the funds be with you!
  15. Let's hope so. Their priority will first be to have enough to supply the arocs sets, and then any 1h2016 sets which have them fingers crossed. Only after they know they'll have enough (which they might have already) will they supply parts for pick a brick. Besides, pick a brick may not be the best section of the Lego website to look. Bricks and pieces will be your best option.
  16. Do you think? Or will they be like the servo motor which took many months to become available?
  17. A photo would help us see why the boom isn't sitting low enough.
  18. Can you not try ebay or bricklink?
  19. In Argos (which is usually the official price), 42043 is £170, Crawler crane is £110 and fire plane is £45, so £85 for the crane sounds great.
  20. And because I couldn't wait till Christmas
  21. To take a leaf out of andythenorths sarcastic book! I hate that they released universal joints. We could make universal joints out of regular parts and it has very limited uses, it can only be used as a universal joint! This juniorisation is getting silly!
  22. If you think of them as just out riggers then I'm not surprised you find them a bit too specialised. But I don't see them as outriggers. They are a guide for linear movement with inbuilt gear rack. They can be used as outriggers, telescopic booms or as a replacement for an LA, for an example of this look at the bed lifting mechanism of the barcode truck. So I don't see them as being too specialised, but specialised parts aren't necessarily a bad thing either. It's bad when it leads to juniorisation but would you call a bucket or a tyre too specialised? You could build them out of regular Lego but they wouldn't be as good.
  23. Why do they need to be synchronised? They are not in real life. The truck I saw at work had individual control valves next to each outrigger so they had to be operated separately and one at a time, which is required when not on perfectly level ground. And besides, in practice the pneumatics will be stronger.
  24. As soon as I can get more new cylinders I'll make the outriggers extend and raise/lower pneumatically.
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