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Nice, thank you for the link, I think a couple of this is what I was looking for Complicated and not suited for the task are part of the fun

About boats: I know Lego made some boats with "real" hulls. Current Artict Icebreaker seems to be one of those. So thinking of proper buoyancy for possibly a speed boat or airboat what part numbers do I need to look for in bricklink? The bigger the hull the better. Do those come weighted or do I need to search for some ballasts? Suggested part numbers for water or air propellers that may work? About RC: Best way to couple a proper RC motor to some Lego (structure and axle)? By now thinking on screwing a couple beams to the motor face and epoxy a 12 double bevel to the motor axle. Anyone into real RC knows if those motors have standard dimensions or mounting points? I wonder if it is possible to design a custom 3D part that would take a typical RC car motor and allow easy integration in a MOC. Sorry about my ignorance I hope I explain myself... That controller thingy with the radiators -and even fans- that drives current from the LiPos to the motor... ¿Speed controller? Does it work by measuring voltage input from the RC receiver and allowing proportional current from the battery to the motor? Is so could a Lego IR receiver be connected to it? If Its only a couple cables I'm guessing the only requirement is to deliver proper voltage range and not much real power. If so what is the typical input voltage range, 0 - 4.8? 7.2? volts or something like that? To sum it up: could I fit a Lego PF cable with some resistor to the "speed controller" and use proper RC motors / batteries for the real work while still being controlled with typical PF remotes/receivers?

Unless you kept it stalled Id say no.

Those RC4WD are expensive but incredibly soft and tacky, so lots of grip. GMade for example makes somethig similar quite cheap, soft too but not so much and way less tacky, and then there are the chinese brands, not that soft, but still ways softer than anything Lego and very very cheap.

1.9 refers to the inner diameter and even if It isn't perfect as Lego rims are 56mm the wheel squezzes a bit and fits. The perfect match would probably be 52 mm inner diameter tire instead of 48mm (1.9") but it works. However those are 44mm wide vs 34mm of the Lego rims, but wider isn't necessarely so bad, I think they can probably fit but is hard to tell.

Power unit / Motors: How many motors / components can you hook-up and draw power from one power unit? Depends on the power unit be it AA, AAA or Rechargeable Li Ion. Everything has thermal protection so no danger. Operating at the same time a couple XL and a servo The power unit is 9V - so if its possible to hook-up 2 motors, each motor will be operating at 1/2 the normal power & speed vs when you hook up just 1 motor? Hooking more motors increases current draw, there is some voltage drop but mostly work the same How long does the power unit last say if you hook up 1 large motor and let it run until it dies? I don't think there is a definitive answer, Using alkalines? NiMH? Eneloops? rated at how many mAH? At no load 10 hours on average? Any other limitations / things I need to know about the power unit? Draw too much current from it and thermal protection kicks in and shuts down. To keep two motors rotating in different directions a switch is needed. AA battery box with rechargeables weights a ton The LiIon unit is very expensive. Cables / Switches: I noticed there are extension cables and switches you can buy - these are only for convenience purposes? ​As far as i know yes. My understanding is the switch allows you to control the power source from another location. ​And as stated before is necessary to independently reverse direction or start/stop motors attached to the same source in older designs reversing the plug did the trick, changing polarity, not anymore. IR Remote / Receiver: This is the newest part of legos to me (aside from mindstorms) - how do these work exactly? ​Poorly... Is Infrared, two channels per Remote, 4 remotes max. connect As many as 4 of them to one or more battery boxes and hook the motors lights to the receivers.... The IR receiver has 4 channels - does this mean you can have a maximum of 4 IR receivers (and thus control a maximum of 4 motors) 4 receivers, but each receiver has 2 channels and each channel can take several devices (motor or lights) The drawn current is the limiting factor. One IR remote can switch between all 4 channels - is there any reason to get multiple remotes? 4 Remotes to use everything at once, Is there ANY reason to get more than 4 IR receivers for the purpose of building ONE custom model?... so having a 5th IR receiver on one model is basically useless?.. please correct me if I'm wrong! covenience , you may design specific remote configurations for specific models. and if you keep the model buitl probably the remote too. As far as remotes, I notice there are 2 types: IR Remote Control IR Speed Remote Contros What is the difference between these two remotes?? ​The second one is better in theory than in practice. It is somewhat proportional. "Useful" for speed control and servo progressive motion. Are both necessary for someone interested in building various controllable functions into a model? No​ Are both remotes V2 and work with the IR receiver (which is also V2)? Remotes aren't V​2, receivers are, but everything can work together, Only difference is V2 receiver can handle some more current. My understanding of the two remotes is this: The basic IR Remote controls power source On/Off and rotation direction. The speed IR Remote controls power source On/Off, rotation direction as well as rotation speed (slow,med,fast) Mostly yes, The speed remote uses a dial, does not automatically return to cero. It has a reset button. If I did not get anything wrong myself I think that is pretty much it.

Edit: I am talking about gmshades ones Those are 96x35 same size as the ones Nalyd997 linked and the smaller ones in my pictures. I guess that is why in the top view yours look a bit too stretched. However unlike mine even if stretched those seem to fit, perhaps due to a softer rubber or a slightly bigger inner diameter? So I stand corrected, 96x35 isn't out of the question, just a risky bet perhaps. All these chinese tires look the same to me http://www.ebay.com/itm/4PCS-RC-1-10-Model-Car-Climbing-Rock-Crawler-Rubber-108mm-1-9-Tires-Tyre-7032-/171460853766?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27ebdd0006

The Unimog one is 94mm, almost exactly like the left one in diameter.

Really better! btw... http://www.ebay.com/...sd=221494186331

1.9 isnt an exact match for Lego rims hence the tire needs to stretch. 96mm is smaller has less rubber to properly stretch and scales to a bit too narrow tire to properly sit on both sides of the rim... whatever, see it yourself. 106 vs 96

Those are 96mm, too small. I got a similar set and don't fit well. Look for the 106mm ones.

I am not sure about the "for kids" reason anymore, after all how many kids are getting the UCS Tumbler? However if a somewhat lazy model like that (steering?) gets out of stock so easily I don't think they will care or make any effort.

Is not always the case, but this one looks better in bricks than in LDD.

At 10€ per tire at Lego I wonder if those are worth it or just get some RC tires.

Discussion can't be avoided. Only the subject changes.

It is so detailed that makes the Model Team sound MODEL Team. The van and the mini are nice, the tumbler... has wheels... (2 nice ones, ok) but that is it.. There are many great creations out there amazing and all but perhaps too big and complex for an official model, but this could be a perfect MT come back. Something big enough to create interest, but not too big. Very detailed and beyond the "got wheels" of the tumbler. And so I learnt I could love MT.

It looks weird because city cranes are somewhat weird, or at least not that common and that is ok but.... anyone knows that amazing computer fans brand? Noctua? Well, there is a bit of Noctua effect on the crane and the background color does not help at all. I'd love to see it at a more favorable scenario. I like the sleek lines in the superstructure but the black portion of the cabin does not look that good. Really quick and dirty... and I like it way more!

I bet if he were a hot girl you would not complain about shorts, pants or whatever... Whisky is a good starting point, drunk naked Lego building is the way to go!

It seems it may be difficult for most people to get into the contest due to the split nature of Technic and Model Team/studded these days so I changed my vote from no to yes even if imho a physical model will always have higher value than a LDD design.

In my opinion setting a fixed size limits creativity. Part count or even model weight are a better metric. About the plane... folding wings. A technic function.

6: 3 21: 5 27: 1 28: 1 29: 3 31: 2 46: 1 52: 3 57: 1 Honorable mention to out of contest entry: Indycar

9398 is ugly imho, 41999 was way better. 42030 is big, looks good, is playable and you get one motor of each kind in case you get interested in MOCing at some point. 42008... there are better sets. Not a big fan.

So the tyres are actual rubber and not the like the Unimog ones.

That yellow part looksI like it but I fail at see how the hubs match Is it the rear hub sideways? I am not sure If there is a pinhole there and even if that is true, what keeps the hub in place? Just trying to figure how it works.

Those hubs, isn't anything odd about the shape? Perhaps there is more to them than it looks at first sight.