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I did not get it yet, I am waiting to get it, from the kickstarter campaign.

Buildings, engineering, architecture, I don't really know how to express it, are a rarity in Technic. However not everything needs to be mechanical or dynamic. Bridges are perhaps the best example. some may pose an incredible challenge and look amazing.

2legoornot2lego trucks are the kind of Model Team I was thinking when I made the post I don't have plans for a single model.When I said vague I really meant it. I am waiting for my SBricks for experimenting with fast cars and I know that in that case weight is the main criteria. However I would want to give a try to some heavy machinery, where weight is of no concern.

From what I have seen there are three main distinct body building techniques: Mostly Flex Axles with some panel here and there (light , expensive, may look a bit raw) Mostly panels with or without flex axles (heavy, cheaper, takes skill to look good without flex axles) Model Team. (heavy, looks really good if well done, somewhat less technic) There are great MOCs out there for every style, so it is not about one being better than other. I am budgeting for a big Lego purchase on January and have some vague ideas of what I want to build but not on how I want to build it. So perhaps a bit of feedback on the matter may help me make my ideas straight

http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=96710 Adding rainbows and a horn does not look that hard....

Do you want "wannabe famous" kids start harrasing him?

4.5v system was very bad, I still have a motor, but no cables and probably not battery box, but I am pretty sure the motor still works, alternatively it can be used as blunt weapon. 9v wires are rubbish.

Only that this isn't an advertisement billboard and spam isn't welcome.Anyways what happens when you make a lot of noise and people find your product err... lacking? You are already getting a lot of attention but mind you, there is something called bad publicity.

I concur.

Personally I would never try to promote my own model, that feels... weird. If it is worthy others will do that.

But 3 Kg with only 1 XL motor is going to be slow no matter what, isnt it?

Between Lego RC performance range and proper RC performance range there is an incredibly wide gap, and certainly it may not make much sense to use proper RC stuff with Lego parts although that is some people's choice and personally I like to learn form their experiences. However for everyone else even if there is no need to go all the way to the proper RC side, 5292 is evidence enough that we could make good use of something a bit beefier than M/L/XL motors.

There have been good sets in the last years, even very good ones, but not awesome ones. So I will resign to something intricate but not jerky (Unimog and Volvo steering? ) Still my top three wishes are 8880 mk II, 8455 mk II and 8416 in 8043 flavor (bigger, full RC, chains instead of strings, etc)

From my first Technic set 8860, my thing were always the big car sets. And to be honest the gearbox never made sense to me because the wheels having an effect on the engine never felt right. I did understand what was happening and why but I felt It did not have a point. I always hoped for a motorized model where the gearbox could make a difference. Yeah, I was not really aware of the lackluster motor performance and it's implications. That being said I remember really appreciating the evolution of the gearbox from 8860 to 8865 and 8880 even if it was a Lego evolution rather than a mechanical evolution. Furthermore models without gearbox felt really uninteresting no matter how fancy the mechanism for the doors was however Silver Champion which introduced new suspension felt amazing. In the end even with its cons I valuated the gearbox -or suspension- over other gimmicks, so a sequential gearbox with paddles is in the wish list for an 8880 successor. edit: Hmm this is supposed to be about Sariel's non released yet reviews and I thought I was on 2015 discussion and speculation, sorry. (albeit he teased us hard and way too early! )

I think sooner or later TLC will make 8288 Mk II, but not trough CUUSOO, Technic is "too niche" for CUUSOO and big models seem to be out of the scope too.

Harsh or rude answers are pointless too.

I have no hope for TLC on this however the SBricks people could design a battery box for standard LiIon 18650 cells Lego style. And then a powerful and fast 5292 replacement/upgrade to go with it.

Waterproof as in submersion no, water resistant as in rain and puddles probably yes. If there is mud the transmission needs some protection. Seals wear out, the faster the motor, the bigger the problems. For underwater, an "inverted" brushless motor is way more convenient. The rotor holds the magnets which can be easily sealed/protected then all the electronics are in a fully sealed enclosure, without moving parts, holding the coils and electronically switched. Water comes in contact with the rotor/magnets and acts as a lubricant/refrigerant.

It just needs a team of lumberjacks to open roads wide enough for it.

When getting the first sets choose a color and try to stay within that color schema at first. Yellow/red are the safe bet, the Volvo for a good PF set, then non PF sets for a better part/price ratio. So get a few sets, then start building and you will realize what parts you are missing more. Get a few more sets to improve stock of those. Only once you find you got most of what you need for your firsts projects start cherry picking in BL.

If you want to take the easy route you can always go for LiIon with protected Panasonic ncr18650b It is a 2C 3400 mAh -6.8amps-, powerful enougth for two stalled RC motors. So probably able to handle 4RC motors in normal conditions specially when those are hooked to puny PF receivers (be it V1 or V2). http://industrial.panasonic.com/www-data/pdf2/ACI4000/ACI4000CE76.pdf Some charger and cell holders... http://www.dx.com/p/soshine-1-5-lcd-universal-charger-for-li-ion-lifepo4-26650-18650-9v-ni-mh-c-aa-aaa-9v-black-289179 http://www.dx.com/p/7-4v-2-x-18650-battery-holder-case-box-with-leads-100997#.VGTlSfnF88o http://www.dx.com/p/11-1v-3-x-18650-battery-holder-case-box-with-leads-100996#.VGTom_nF88o

Not a defective part, the wheel loader viciously dropped the crawler from the bed to the ground.

If you are in a hurry and got some tools.... Remove the part. Drill through the small hole where the pin was with a metric 2 or 3 bit. On the opposite side of where the snapped pin was make room for a nail head with a countersink bit Now find a suitable nail and cut its length if necessary so when put through both parts it is a couple millimeters shorter. Get some fast drying epoxy and glue the snapped pin using the nail as a reinforcement. In 10 minutes you may have the part working almost as new. It could be done with a screw instead but it is a bit more complicated.

Really? Derailing a thread in the process? And did not notice what was happening with every post? Seriously... after this I personally couldn't care less of anything you may want to share as this is rude and shows no respect to "regulations" AND members of this forums.

Nice size for Silver champion