D3K

I placed an order two days ago, and called to verify and pay today.. The nice lady said it usually took 10-12 days, but it was pretty hectic these days, so maybe as long as two weeks. parts are picked and shipped from Denmark to Norway, and I suppose the same goes for the rest of Europe as well. Got to say, it beats bricklink on prices on most of the items I ordered!

What do you gain from "a lot of views"? Why is this so important to you?

When a MOC is initially posted and approved on Rebrickable, it automatically is frontpaged under "Latest MOCs," which makes it easy to check out for anyone curious.. However, as new MOCs are approved, yours is pushed further back, and then it's off the frontpage, and people won't see it/check it out unless they search for it or stumble upon it. That might be why you have a lot of views initially, but then the numbers decline. At least that's my experience, although I can't say for sure that this is how it works

Welcome to the forums! Your crawler crane looks really impressive! Do you have a video uploaded showing its functions?

You are absolutely right, I remember now, that the #1 axle/pin connectors (their only function is to prevent the axle going through the turntable from being pressed too far down) are placed offset to one side, exactly to clear the diff!! So when the front diff is flipped, the connectors have to be moved to the other side as well!! I simply forgot this when I edited the instructions to say that the front diff should be flipped! And I am fully aware that it is a real pain to access both diffs when the model is built... Believe me, I too learned the hard way! Great! hope the model lives up to your expectations after all this hard work and frustration! Feel free to post a picture of the finished model and your impressions when you are done! Thanks! Better late than never! If you get around to building it, just remember one of the diffs should be the other way around!

I think the rear diff is easier to access than the front one.. As the rear axle assembly is symmetrical front-to-rear, you could just flip the entire thing?

What will be smiler to 8464? The steering?

The small turntable isn't that expensive per piece, seeing as it is a fairly specialized part, you probably never will need it in huge quantities.. I'd just buy one from bricklink or Lego directly:-)

I'll keep that in mind

Correct! Or, almost, I was thinking the Viper, which in turn is more or less just a SuperCobra with four bladed rotor I thought as the modern day AH-1's in Marines "livery" are mostly Light Bluish Gray, it's just perfect! I have made some rough sketches by pencil to try and scale things. I will use the blades off of 9396, which I hope will make the HellFire missiles buildable using 2x2 round bricks!

I made a small chinook'y helicopter, amongst other things.. Even has a loading ramp in the back! On a side note: I really liked the 42020 I am also making a single engine propeller plane on a slightly larger scale, and hope to start making a large scale AH-1Z (at least in LDD)

Yes, unfortunately I have neither the room, nor the budget to keep my models built... Maybe in the future, when I get a job with good pay Thanks, and I hope you enjoy it if you build it It is because the small LA's for steering the thing will "crash" with the lower gear if you use 16z gears. It works with 16z gears, but you will hear a ratcheting sound, and I imagine over time it will tear on both the gear, as well as the LA's. I don't have the instructions in front of me, but if you are where I think you are, then yes: replace the yellow knob gear on the vertical axle going through the turntable, with a 12z single bevel gear. Then, when you place the "arms", use double bevel 20z gears instead of the yellow knob gears! Hope you enjoy it!

I built it with a normal worm drive, with a half stud on either end, worked flawlessly Also, great reviews! Buffering the Hovercraft now

If you use Lego plastic bags to contain the gas, from, say, a Lego store, I'd say it qualifies as 100% Lego!

They are most definitely not, unfortunately

Anyone else noticed they are reintroducing Arctic Adventure? On the topic of the wheel loader: I just can't see any justification for using a servo for the steering, when a single or dual mini LA system, like the one JorgeOpesi made for his Komatsu, works much more realistically, and is even cheaper!

Hi! Sorry, I never made a video of this model, and it is long since taken apart.. Maybe someone who has built the model would make a short video of it? I, at least, can unfortunately not help you at this time..:-(

Thanks guys! For me, what really makes this model, is the wheels.. The original balloon tires doesn't fit it at all! And that was the easy part! I forgot to say, but the pictures are as usual in higher resolution on my BrickSafe. I'll shoot some more pictures without bodywork and stuff, so you can better see the internals if you'd like, but it wil probably be a couple of days before I can do that

I built the B-model of the 8297 this holiday, and thought it looked great, but the technical aspects of the thing was just ridiculously lame, so I set myself a goal to "Supercarify" the thing when I got back home, as well as make some minor improvements both technically and aesthetically. Anyway, here is the result: What is immediately apparent are of course the new wheels, which in my opinion look a whole lot better for this model. Also, the rear is two studs higher than the original. I kept the pretty useless winch up front, and also added a different air intake/hood scoop, and more "lights" to the roof. Obviously all traces of PF have been removed This rear shot shows some added exhaust pipes, as well as bigger, longer travel shocks. The shocks are the reason the rear had yo be a little higher. There is now a normal opening bonnet/boot, so you don't need to raise the entire body of the car to view the engine. Engine is the same as before, but with transparent cylinders. I used the damped shocks to male gullwing doors, much like the ones on the A-model. Nothing too fancy. Here you can see the rubber band that drives the steering wheel, as well as the gear shifter. Both out of focus (sorry) The above image shows the gear shifter for the four speed manual transmission. Due to the lack of width in this model, I had to use the actual seats to brace the gearshifter. Got this idea from the Adjustable Spirograph, and it works great! Due to the added gearbox, I had to route the steering underneath it. This makes the buggy have two less studs of ground clearance in the middle, though it still sits no lower than the rear axle assembly, which is still the same as in the original. Here is a underbelly shot The axle with the u-joint you can see in the mmiddle is the steering. I added some panels to make it look a little cleaner, as well as protect the axles and gears in the area, but here is a picture without them Both the input and output on the gearbox is situated in the rear, offset on stud to the side, so the vertical steering axle from the Hand of God can pass in the centre. The output is the same height as the rear axle, and the input is two studs above that. It goes underneath the engine, all the way to the back, and uses the trio of 16z spur gears of the original to drive the engine. So that's it! Personally I feel this adds a whole lot more playability, and the MODs can be achieved with a minimum of extra parts, as there is a lot left from the A-model. I've never made a "Supercar" MOC before, with gearbox and stuff, so this was a lot of fun and also a great experience for me!

Definitely use studded! If you base your design around longitudinal "beams" made from two long studded Technic bricks/beams stacked with a double layer of plates between them, you should have a strong member that can be reinforced vertically with other Technic parts

So in the course of not even two weeks it goes from being Favourite to being Worst Set Of All Time?? Wow!

Looks pretty awesome! :thumbup: What gear ratio? 1:3 reduction?

-AH-1Z with the rotor blades from 9396 -new truck on my 8x4 chassis (the one I used for my recovery truck) -fast RC car -Supercarified 8297 b-model (this will probably be my first project)

Made me giggle:-)

A working rudder shouldn't be too difficult.. Also, making it bigger, more c-130 like, and add guns to the side and a Fulton recovery system and make it a Combat Talon