D3K

I think it is mostly to save the extra costs in parts to drive both axles. Also, it frees up space in the front, to make for an easier inclusion of a potential engine. I think for TLG in these mid-to-large-scale cars - concidering the target audience - the most important thing is to just have a differential driving a fake motor in the front.

Regarding aestethics, I think a selection of different rim covers will get us a long way! Prime examples are Efferman's wheel loader- and Lamborghini Countach custom printed covers.

I agree with your way of seeing things. A lot of the parts-heavy complex sets are yellow construction machines. Therefore, my list (as a MOC builder) would be something like this: 1. 8043 - for the tracks, LAs and PF equipment 2. 42009 - for the wheels and gear racks 3. 8455 - obviously for the pneumatics 4. 8421- more wheels, pneumatic brackets, motor 5. 42030 - wheels, LAs and PF equipment Within all those sets there should be enough gears, pins and liftarms to build pretty much anything

Very true! When you put it like that, I definitely see the charm! What I meant was exactly that; they don't seem super comfortable

Great to properly see the B-models for the first time! The videos seem a little "forced" upon the presenters though

Glad to hear it, looking forward to seeing your pictures! I'm also glad you found a way to implement the Large Motors, as I think they are more than sufficient for this model! Also, it should give you twice the speed! If you want to apply the modifications I mentioned above in the revamped instructions, they can be easily done post-build with a pair of pliers or a leatherman or something, just need to pull out some axles that are hard to get to by hand

Hi! I just wanted to inform that I have made some small changes in the instructions, and reuploaded them. These are done to make it easier to implement additions in the future. For those of you (if any) who have taken it upon you to build this, the changes are mostly focused around steps 23 (half pins), 31.1 to 31.11 (drive gear assembly, and further the lack of using a 3L axle w/stud to attach it), 47 and 50 (the use of long friction pins with bush, to make it easily removable) and 48 (not installing a transverse 5L bracing axle, which is unnecessary and space consuming). The new instructions can be downloaded here, and I have also updated the links on Rebrickable and in the first post of this topic. Sorry about any problems this may have caused. Now, I am in the process of making a tipping/dumping bed, and have made a nice, fairly compact dual LA setup that fits like a glove. Here is a quick render of the finished module as it appears before installing it: The actual bed shouldn't take too long to design, and I am already on it

Wonderful little car!

Nice write-up, and I agree on all your views! It's pretty much function over form on the FOX, which is truly an impressive creation, while Madoca's Tatra has the usual attention to detail he has become known for, while still performing admirably! For sheer oofroad awesomeness, I'm pretty sure the FOX will beat the Tatra. By that I am absolutely not saying it is the better MOC. Not having built any of these, I don't have first hand experience. It will sure be interesting to see them pitted against each other. I recently discovered OSUharding's youtube channel, and must say I like the reviews he's given on several notable MOCs, letting us all have a second opinion on these

Of course. On a side note, I can highly reccommend this seller, huge selection of fairly rare prices, at a generally very nice price. I have bought a lot of ordinary parts as well as electronic ones from him (used in very good condition), and they are generally of a very high quality. The only part I want Lego to reintroduce is the pneumatic cylinder bracket, as they now command ridiculous prices! But as you say; supply and demand - this part is sooo specialized there really is no alternative solution that is concidered legal!

On the bricklink store I most frequently use, there are 39 1x16 yellow bricks, priced at EUR 0.56, which is less than the Lego asking price. They are "used, in very good condition", which in my experience is pretty much equal to "new"

They also have something called "Bricks & Pieces", where you can buy pretty much any part you want, as long as they have it in stock. Yellow 1x16 Technic Bricks are currently out of stock, but they have them in white, red, blue, black, LBG and DBG. Price is about 7 NOK per piece, which translates into a little less than 1 Euro and a little more than one US dollar

I too find a lot of it interesting, though some things less than others.. But OP seems to come up with question formulations that most of us never even think of! Perhaps he is doing research for a book titled "Absolutely everything you ever could possibly wonder about Lego Technic, and people's opinions on the matters"

Check this out

I may have misinterpreted the issue, I read it as if you were wondering whether to get it or not, and I think you will find all the info/pros/cons/tips/opinions in the above mentioned topics, and make your decision based on that. Personally, I don't think I'll buy this set, unless I happen upon one severely discounted. As has been mentioned, it is a very nice parts pack, and a good introduction to Power Functions. For someone just about to get into Technic and making MOCs, I think the 42030 and 42009 combined will give him/her the absoute best assortment of parts to build pretty much anything he/she wants. As for the rare parts (bucket and green engine pieces), I don't think we'll be seeing either of those again unless it is another Volvo MOC (given that green engines and that particular bucket are things you'll pretty much only see in Volvo vehicles). Then again, they can still be ordered from Lego at a much lower price than buying the whole set. Seeing as most kids don't have/can't afford a huge collection of Lego models to keep built at the same time (if they do, they are a lot luckier than I am/was), but rather build the model upon getting it (for example if you get the 42030 for Christmas, you'll surely build it), and after some time, it ends up dismantled in the bins with the rest of your bricks, ready to be built into something else. At least that's how it's supposed to be So to summarize, I'd say if you want to build MOCs and want a great starting point; buy this (along with the 42009). If you have enough useful pieces (like I do) and are not collecting models for display (like Blakbird does) I'd skip this one.

Link Link Link Maybe any of these three topics will help you get the answers you need? EDIT: As a display model, this topic include some nice visual improvements as well Link

No mistake, it is the wheel used in the 8041/42041 as it comes from TLG, but if you look at the pictures in the OP, you'll quickly see he used the ones from 42009, in black

40: 10 37: 6 33: 4 36: 3 21: 2 22: 1 Had to give entry 22 a point for the smart parking "function"!

If we get a Mercedes Benz flagship, I am hoping for a supercar, maybe the new Mercedes-AMG GT? It's been a while since we had a sports car flagship (though having two large cars as the1H and 2H flagships respectively, might not be realistic?). Would be nice to se a licensed proper supercar. More realistically though, I'd say it will be a 3 or 4 axle Actros of some kind. I actually hope it won't be any kind of Geländewagen (not even the 6x6), even though I have much love for that car!

Topic

Ribbed hoses 7mm is an own category on bricklink, and even if you couldn't see that, a simple search for "ribbed" would find it for you

I fixed the link on rebrickable and in this topic to now go to the file in BrickSafe, so it should be good! Thanks, I am glad you liked it! And yes, it is a bit too slow for my liking. I though I could just flip the diff and swap the order of the double bevel gears driving it from the motor, but the double bevel gears can't mesh with the 16 tooth end of the diff I am working on a solution in my head though, there should be enough room for some different gearing between them

Thank you very much, I have to agree with Efferman; you seem to have a different LDD than the rest of us! I will replace my downloadable file with yours! On a slightly different note, I got this in an e-mail from dropbox: This email is an automated notification from Dropbox that your Public links have been temporarily suspended for generating excessive traffic. Your Dropbox will continue to function normally with the exception of Public links. So they might not work.. I will try to upload the .pdfs to Bricksafe or something EDIT: Hi! The current instructions are for the truck only, no attachments. I hope to cook something up in the not to distant future, but I am away from my bricks for the next seven days. Maybe I will make something digitally, but it's kinda hard to check the mechanical tolerances.. I will update this topic whenever I have something ready!

The pictures are extremely small.. intentional? Btw, love your Quattro!

I'm really glad that you guys seem to like it, thanks a lot! Yeah, I had almost forgotten about that! Will post a file of that soon! Like I mentioned earlier, the system is best suited for a slightly lower model, without suspension like this, so I won't be making it for this MOC at first.. Yeah, it is very time consuming, but in the end worth it when you get it right! Glad to hear you like my models, how's the tipper truck coming along? I tried to use as few uncommon parts as possible, in fact I can't think of a single part that's concidered hard to get in the inventory. Thanks! Good luck! Glad you like it! If you want to attach the crane straight from the unimog, you only have to modify the outriggers I think, as well as make some kind of manual pump and turning mechanism.. Like I said regarding the crane in the picture, it has an added pneumatic circuit for the boom extension, but it is also modified with a crank to turn the crane from the back. Also, the cabin on the side. I think I might make instructions for a standard tpping bed first, as it's a quite simple and straightforward mod