Tamas Juhasz

Ok, I haven't read your first post enough attentively. The two motor for steering is a good idea, we also used that about a year ago in the hungarian TT meeting(but not in a TT, only to try out). That's perfect to steer wired vehicles precisely

A BLDC(brushless DC) motor is much more expensive than these, so it doesn't make sense. The BLDC motor's liftime is higher(about 2 or 3 times, BUT only when you operate the motor in high rpm, in low rpm a BLDC motor doesn't has advantage compare to the regulars), but the price isn't 2-3 times more(about ten times, if I know well). And than you have to build the new motor inside, you need new electric(inside) for it. The difference between the regular and the BLDC motor would be mostly in the lifteime.

Velcome! It's a very good moc to start. There aren't a lot of working(motorised functions) bikes. I like the rubber band for driving(the 71427 motor is one of my favourites). Isn't the steering too fast?

The instruction is done: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=510376 Here can be seen how much wires features compared to it's size: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=5577910 and here is the explanation for the rubber band: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=5577894

The instruction is available now: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=510190 Only 94 picture, but I think it's not hard to see how to assemble. But feel free to ask me if something isn't clear. The rear axle is very similar to my previous crawler's rear axle. If somebody needs the BS downloader program, I will try to send it. (but earlier it was unsuccesful in email, because it's a copyrighted program and an .exe)

Great idea, and it's easy to make into a police truck color scheme. The small speed is ideal for a patrol squad. Maybe I can put a flashing light in with these part: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=4771 Yes, that would be very good, for example the most waited PF Small motor(with that this moc wouldn't need at least one conversion wire, and could be much faster). A much smaller battery box and receiver would be also good, but I don' think we will get them in the next 6-8 years. The PF system is very good to make motorised mocs in the size, wich TLC uses for official technic sets. Unfortunately they don't need smaller PF parts. But the S motor is very needed. The micromotor is pretty stron compared for it's size, the 71427 motor produce 6 Ncm stalled torque, this one 1,6. There are 1:87 radio controlled model cars, they are ca. 4 cm long( ). So technically it's not hard to make, but every electrical component must fit to the Lego parts system. The stud and the connection point makes the limit. But the PF components could be smaller I think. Thanks for the link, I don't have much time to see all these blogs.

Thanks all. We have also Faller cars(but not yet assembled, they wait for the layout), and I thought earlier to make this, but it's only possible with the small PF battery box. Th Faller ones are controlled by the road(if I know well), I made a similar with magnets and road plates, but for that you need an increased layout to hide the mechanics below. Good idea, I also thought about to drive with these in one of our(Malug) exhibitions. But it would be no longer than 1-2 hours, I couldn't let be there in switched on state.

Fantastic body. I like the details too. Has any functions except of steering/cab tilting?

Hello! Last week I was thinking about a very small PF remote controlled car(somebody started a topic about small PF mocs, that was also inspiration). To make the smallest(or a very small, you can't be 100% sure, can be existing a smaller one which isn't publicated) you don't have a lot of possibilities, the vehicle will feature a LiPo battery box or AAA, an IR receiver, and micromotors. This is my solution: Folder: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=510197 Dimensions: 16 stud long, 6 stud wide and 10 stud high. The City theme vehicles are 6 s wide too, so in an exhibition it can drive on the road plates: The steering motor is fixed by one rubber band, that can be seen in the back: So only Lego parts were used, the picture text explains the reason for the black rubber band. The most challenging part of the building was to hide the wires. There are two conversion wires, the receiver's wire, two 9V wire. The most of them are in the left side and bottom: Top: Here clearly can be seen the steering and driving, there are no gears, only one (original Lego) rubber band: The PF speed IR speed remote control is the best for driving, steering is too fast with the regular one. I know it's not fast(0,074 km/h ), but there is no space for a medium motor. Action:

Very fun! I think there is an old small 9V battery box and one micromotor(I'm sure - can be seen at 0:21)

Ok, I will upload soon. Anyway, I really interested in what do you think about this construction. I didn't see a lot of PP wheeled crawler.

Cery capable and good looking! But I think the servos are unneccessary. The return to center steering needed mostly for fast vehicles.

Yes, RC is much usable and comfortable. I made instructions for the whole machine, I can upload if somebody needs. The next step will be this chassis with custom RC wheels. Now the PP wheels means the limit.

Hi again! This is my latest crawler, firstly it looks like a V2 of my previous one, but it's a different construction: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=509876 This is more able to climb rocks, there weren't problems in those terrain stages where I tested. The suspension and driving is absolutely different in this one. I didn't copy a real RC crawlers suspension, because we have no metal parts(the Lego parts can deform), and it needed some more reliable and strong one. So the suspension solution is similar like the Unimogs torque tube, but it's a torsion one with two paralell liftarms in front and rear axle. Very reliable and simple, and provides enough equalization in terrain: The wheelbase increased compared to my previous one, and the ground clearance is also higher thank to the V-shaped bottom. The center of gravity is pretty low, credit goes to the PP wheels, they weight together 744g. In the upper part there is only the RC unit and the very lightweight body. Stability was good, but you have to drive carefully to prevent rollover. Two 5292 RC buggy motors drive the crawler, top speed is 0,8 km/h, so wasn't boring the test. Final reduction(i): 25:1 Each axle has a built in RC motor, it's very important, because in this way it has no reaction torque(is it an appropriate phrase?). Bottom: The 6L links provide the minimum ground clearance, they prevent the decrease. The springs do mostly vertical stabilization, and give flexibility to the crawler, so a take off in stairs isn't problem without body damage. Outdoor terrain test video: Of course, it's built with PP wheels, I think other Lego tires are unable(or much worse) for rock crawling. Hope you like it.

Thanks. The instructions for the axles is available: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=509835 (if somebody needs the BS picture downloader program, I can upload) This crawler was the first version, the better performing V2 will be uploaded soon. I like even more the PP wheels after every ride on rocks/soil, they perform surprisingly well.

Very clever design, nice work. I hope we will see it in a helicopter.

Good idea! Very fun. They are too strong, they don't split up. (I remember we also made two years ago a destruction derby with single cars in a TT meeting. )

Nowadays I really wanted to make a crawler to have fun, and to try out what these can do with PP wheels. Those wheels were very important, you can increase the capability a lot, and another very good propertie of the PP wheel: it keeps the center of gravity low because of it's "huge" mass. This is the final version: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=509357 I built it mostly after the Hpi crawler king: http://clodzone.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/hpicrawlerkingjeepwrangler2.jpg Suspension: The Hpi has 3 point one, so I used also that, allows extremely large rotation between the axles: I used the swingarm from 8297 and two 9L link under. There is also an upper stabilization in the swingarm to prevent outcoming. The wheelbase is similar to Hpi's, if it would be bigger, the ramp angle would be worse, and that's very important. The springs are connected with links to the axles, so I get a bigger suspension travel, and the softness is changable. Driving, steering: A single XL motor drives, like in the real ones, and there isn't much more space to an another motor. Has a hand operated two speed gearbox, first gear with 8,333:1 ratio, second with 2,777:1: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=5560527 The steering motor is built in the front axle to be simplier and more reliable. I only had to take care not to oversteer to prevent the steering connections's damage. Body, accessories: Has a very simple and lightweight body, so I could keep the whole weight(1731g) under 1750g. In the front there are 3 leds, so in the dark the crawler is also functional: ..and there is a safety net in the left side, and the hungarian flag in the rear. Driving performance: You can see everything here: This is the maximum, I think a TT would be better with a really strong suspension and bigger wheelbase/ground clearance. But in the obstacles seen in the video there weren't problems with it. In about the middle, a 8t gear in the left rear wheel damaged, - I changed later to a stronger teeth 8t gear - , that's the reason for the clacking sometimes. Main attributes: 1731 g 847 piece 1. gear: 0,4 km/h 2. gear: 1 km/h l/w/h: 377/237/220 mm

8868. You get a lot of useful parts, and this truck was unique in the '90s because of the very clever upper structure rotating, and compressor powered pneumatic.

Cool outdoor crawling, and very nice publication! Good to see you also here. Yes, I agree: a crawler should be bottom balanced, but if it's nose heavy a very ittle, imho that's optimal. I know it's not possible with 9398, but I thought earlier about an off-road vehicle with motorised balancing, for example the battery box could slide from bottom to front/rear, depending on the terrain.

Thanks all. No' date=' only a very little, because the differential makes the equalization. For this it's useful. But there is a slip, when both rear wheels are stucked, so the rubber bands are a kind of resistance for the motor. Yes, as seen in the video there wasn't problems with steering. It's so small that the power of the micromotor is enough, and there is a 1,5:1 strengthening transmission with the 24-16 gears. Anyway, the micromotor is pretty strong compared for it's size.

In the winter I wanted to make a very small rally car(of course with wires): http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=489098 The main conception was: no wider than 10 studs, 13x24 tyres, independent suspension: So there is a full independent suspension in this car, like in the real ones. It needs no differential, but I wanted to build in, so the drivtrain contains an original Lego rubber bands on each side: The suspension also works with small rubber bands. For the steering, one micromotor is responsible, a small linkage transfers the force: For this, the 6L link was very useful, it keeps also the track: For driving it uses one M motor, that's the maximum in this size. The body is studfull, because you can make a better look body with these parts. I put stickers to be more realistic. On the front, the two small lamps light: I could drive it in snowy-concrete terrain, this video shows, how it's performed: Main attributes: weight: 332g top speed: 1,37 km/h number of pieces: 484 db length: 200 mm width: 82 mm height: 82 mm

As I wrote, it's for light Tatras(that yellow 813 was 1,6 kg), 84 mm is the max. wheel, which can be used for this. Not because of the steering, but because of the 12-12 bevel gear driving. But it's very easy to make it modular, if you have enough wheels, you can make even a 12x12 Tatra(exist also in reality). But in this case the central driving gear should be in the center.

Our TT team developed this type of suspension for 84mm wheels Tatra: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=450033 http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=485582 http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=5212456 - useful in lighter Tatras, like the real one it uses a central driving axle

Amazing moc! Very stable and durable as seen in the video. ( For buying that amount of frames and NXT parts you have to be a millionare. - or do you have sponsors?)