Tamas Juhasz

Looks good, nearly as high as the diamater of the wheels. I like this design with the simple technik. But I think a gearbox would be possible, even it would be in a bit high position in the interior. But if it would be a linear one, the gearbox axles could be placed side by side for smaller size in height.

Thanks. I know in reality it's not so probable, but technically it wouldn't hard to make in a real car(with an automatic sensor system). I took the isnpiration also from a real car which used this.

Really good, I like the trial/heavy off road versions of the G. It would be interesting also a mud trial video with the finished model.

I made the video for my old parking car: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=409494 Functions: driving, steering, working steering wheel, differential lock, 4speed gearbox, parking mechanism. The functions are operated by wires and a pneumatic switch.

A member of our TT team, Kisvakond also made a similar one before: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=449766 http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=4727782 Yours doesn't need the 8t gears, only the rubber pieces. I tried it out, and there is a torque limit which can transfer the free-wheel. In yours all the 3 rubber pieces connects to the rim if it's drives the vehicle? Anyway nice buggy.

Yes, I misspelled. Thanks. But it would be good.

Hi again! Nowadays I wanted to build something extraordinary Lego gun. Generally I have developed further TheTechnicKiwi's firing mechanism: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=487705 - I thought it would be good with possibility of moving and a larger clip. So I made this: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=507850 Two RC buggy motors are responsible for shooting, they allows max. 660 shot/minute, if the battery is full. This is a bit faster than the Thompson submachine gun. This turret has an undercarriage for moving in all direction, and for moving the upper structure with the gun. min - max tilt: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=5536550 http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=5536552 Only the gravity is responsible for reloading, the ammo simply falls down. The ammo clip can store max. 60 3LstopAxle, the gun can shoot them all in 5,6 - 6 second. Maximum range is about 2m. The undercarriage is as simple as it can be, it's only for moving with it's 3 wheels and two XL motors on each side: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=5536569 The video shows it in action: - sorry in advance if you are a castle minifig fan (I didn't placed all the pictures directly here, in the BS folder everybody can see them)

Thank you all. I think it's a pure solution' date=' because if you are enough skilled, you can take the white piece out from the motor without damage. I found one more way to use them: for accelerate a flying machine's propellers: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=5432841 So this pull-back motors are surprisingly useful.

Very impressive.

Nowadays I found some yet haven't used(or I haven't seen) pieces and combinations. 1.: Combination between turntables, so you can easily connect studless and studfull techniques: 2.: A reinvented piece from the RC system's steering unit: I took out this piece from the "Black Electric RC Race Buggy Steering Unit" - BL number 6282. This can be used as a 4x3 T liftarm. You can take this out without damage, only screws are there: 3.: A spline shaft from the pull-back motor "motor0" : This needs maximum 1 stud place: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/mbmc137/Ideas-Technologies/Spline-Shaft/012.jpg So there isn't friction there when you place it in a small moc, 1 stud width is enough for it. The maximum extension with reliable working is 1 stud as can be seen from the pictures. I think it's enough in the most cases. What do you think?

The essence of the S motor would be that you could place it in small mocs, where is a very limited space, so it will be much more useful if the S motor has an internal gearing and low rpm, like micromotor. The essence is the performance(rpm[1/s] * torque[Nm]) of the motor, that should be higher as the micromotors, for example 60 rpm and 6 Ncm stalled torque. (mircomotor: 1,6 Ncm - 35 rpm) The gearing with normal technic gears would use a reltively lot of space in a small moc, sometimes there is no possibiity for it.

The instruction is available now: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=504222 Does anyone planning to try it out? I used it in a medium vehicle directly after one Rc buggy motor(powered from PF BB), and worked well with that torque.

Thank you. I know the BI isn't public yet, but soon it will be. I think it's easy to build even from these pictures. - Yes, it's already placed in my new project(4x4 off-roader model). But that's not so large, has 81,6 mm wheels.

Thanks all! Sorry for the big pics, now I have smalls for my latest idea, so I can write a better interpretation of this 4 speed PF remote controlled gearbox: Folder: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=504221 I built it for small vehicles and relatively low torque, I think this is the samllest remote 4 speed gearbox. The main aim was to be compact/small, simple, and easy to control. You don't need special parts or the big NXT unit to switch between gears. The motors help each other. In the sifting from 1. to 2. speed wit the (1.) motor, the another motor(2.) is in central position, nothing extraordinary happenes. But in the shifting from 2. to 3. speed, the steering piece pulls off the driving ring from second speed and the (2.) motor engages the 3. gear. The gearbox needs friction in the axle of the red shifting piece to prevent the "re-central positioning" of the motor, which turns only a 1/4. The motors are stalled for a half second, but it's minimal. In this case: - it would be a simple(but not usable) motorized gearbox. With 3 more pieces it doesn't allow to be two speed engaged at the same time: Shifting from 1. to 3. and 2. to 4. speed don't work, but you can shift from 1 to 4 or backwards. The most important: in this gearbox each position of the contollers levers corresponds to one gear: Right lever down: 1. Right lever up: 2. Left lever down: 3. Left lever up: 4. Can be seen working in this video: What dou you think?

Nice. You can dissappear the friction this way(the red 1x2 half liftarm shold be in 32184 BL piece): http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/mbmc137/Ideas-Technologies/DiffLock-control/005.jpg Needs of course a 5x7 frame too.

That tram is beautiful! Great ideas.

very nice! I like the idea of using that dices from games.

Great moc, looks good. Nice functionality. I think the front axle should be a bit back: http://bibikalki.narod.ru/bibikalki/willys/willys-jeep.gif

Thanks. Resize: if 800x600 is the maximum, then some details will be hard to see in my mocs. For example: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/mbmc137/Caterpillar-385-CL/Building/img_212_1024x768.jpg Is there auto resize, which resizes the picture like above, but to 800x600? I can't upload them in 800x600, that's too small.

Looking huge, very impressive!

Thanks! Watch the video, that shows there wasn't any problem with the position. A good TT uses the minimum gears what is possible. This placing allows to have only 3 gears in the rear axles. This way the efficiency can be higher. Not a good quality video, but this shows what it can do: Find an another TT which can do the same.. I wrote the reason, why the XLs didn't get water-logged: with the 1x1 round plates the motors were insulated. The whole machine was designed for snow.

Thanks for the post! This was my first 6x6 TT in large size. Folder: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=459855 Was built in January 2011 for the first Malug winter TT race( http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=460504 ) The rules permitted the PP wheels(even recommended), I think that's the only usable wheel for snow. The Zil worked good, one accident was with the steering mechanism, but in the end became second: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=4867779 http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=4867829 The suspenson is a special one, the rear unit with the sideways pendular suspension is linked together with the front axle. The links and the linking method is normal, like in 4x4 trucks. This machine is very good to build because the wheelbases are the same, so the weight distribution is easy to build ideal. There is only one picture about the original, so I had to imagine the rear of the body. Someone asked in YT how are the motors insulated. With the 1x1 round plates(see above). The motors are also the snow remover from the rear wheels(and this generates cooling for them ). The wires are necessary of the following reason: the rules allowed one motor/850 g. So this truck should be at least 2550g to have 3 motors. This construction with the heavy PP wheels weights in this status 2670g. It's already more than the minimum(which is optimal in a competition), and the RC Unit(PF isn't good in outdoor use) would add more 300-400g. It's big, but there isn't much space inside. And the main reason as the colleague wrote: "IR reception outdoors is terrible" Main parameters: Weight: 2670g Pieces: 1431 Top speed: 0,68 km/h Length: 472 mm Width: 250 mm Height: 230 mm

8110 contains more useful parts, imho that's a better deal if the prize is nearly the same. But 9398 has a servo motor, so hard to decide.

Thanks for welcome! The excavator was built 2 years ago, model of a CAT 385 CL, fully remote. The 3 ideas are my latest creations. (and a lot of relatively new mocs are waiting for upload, in the gallery are mostly older ones, but I don't have much time recently) I know deeplinks(in the Malug forum we post mostly with normal links), but thanks for the information, I will post in the future with deeplinks. Thanks. If I know well, after 10 posts I can write to members in private. I think my TT-s and miniTTs should have an another topic, if you can it would be great a post about them. First about the Zil-136.