Jeroen Ottens

Nice one. This is going to be a very fierce competition. Lots of bricks left to finish of the design

Hi, Thanks for all the comments. Yes it is rubberband suspension. Missing parts are on their way to finish it in real bricks. Styling of the nose is going to be my challenge for the coming weeks

Hi, Here is a potential entry for the mini competition. It is a small scaled version of the 42000 Grand prix racer. Features: - Independent suspension on all 4 wheels with a linkage mechanism more or less like the real car - Working steering - Hood can be opened with a mini-LA Part count is 200 exactly. I'm still tweaking the design to get all functions working perfectly. Jeroen

Cool

Really cool model. This could have been the B-model. Really cool video as well :)

Great MOC. You captured the curves really good. I'm amazed at the strength of that bodywork. The only downside for me would be the colour. It would be really nice if we can get some other colours than red to build cars with...

Hi, Here is a screenshot of my studyfile of the brick-build linear actuator for the Liebherr LTM11200 I built: You can PM me if you want the LDD file.

The Power puller with sledge is certainly longer, may be even the longest of all?

Brilliant MOC. I love the slickness of the design. Absolutely impractical low clearance, but that just adds to the wow-factor.

I use a similar approach as Cumulonimbus, however I have started to use LDD heavily for the module part. It has the advantage that you have an unlimited amount of parts available and it is very easy to swap one part that is right inside your structure. The disadvantage is that you have to have a good feeling for the rigidity of the structure. You sort of have to make a mental map of the structural components of the build otherwise it will fall apart when building it. Or you find that you have created an impossible construction. One thing that I find is virtually impossible to do in LDD is the bodywork. You just can't see the flow and lines of your design. But once the inside of the car is finished, the outside is much easier to make using real lego.

Thanks! Exactly what I was looking for

Hi, Does someone have an overview of which technic panels are available in which colours?

It is the Technic steering arm small: And thanks for the compliment

Hi Orbit, Sorry I missed your reply the first time. Here are the answers I have: 1) I haven't measured the weight, sorry. But it is heavy... I usually transport it in three pieces: the undercarriage, the superstructure and the boom. Each section is several kg's... 2) The outriggers are not strong enough to lift the model. When fully extended they do bend. They do however improve the stability during rotation of the superstructure. 3) I still have to finish the boom, but it will get at least 4 sections. The first section is the outer shell, the second section is actuation with a long gear rack. Section 3 and 4 are actuated with strings, just like the 42009 boom. Each section is ~80 cm, so the total height will be around 3 meters. 4) In the pictures posted the actual shifting mechanism wasn't visible. Here is a view from the bottomside of the switching mechanism. The gears are switched in groups of 3. The black knobwheel in the middle is elastically locked by the red bionicle teeth. It can be positioned in 4 different positions. For each position a set of 3 gears is engaged. 5) I haven't completely solved that yet. Reinforcing the drivetrain has helped a lot, but not enough. Adding elastic energy through elastic bands was my next trick. That helped, but it put a big strain on the structure so I wasn't too happy about that. 6) For the normal steering I use the same mechanism as the 42009 set: each gear rack is at a different distance from the wheel axle. One long steering axle can be turned to steer the wheels proportionally to their position. When switching from normal steering to crabsteering the whole steering axle shifts 2 studs to the back. All the 12T gears disengage from the normal steering racks. Other 12T gears on that same axle engage to the second set of gear racks. This second set is located two studs behind the wheel axle for each wheel. When turning the steering axle now all wheels will turn the same direction. I hope this answers your questions.

Where can you get these holonomic wheels?

Wow, combining of two great hobbies in one masterpiece I remember programming these dragon curves in my youth, the merest possibility of the thought forming in my mind that this could be done with lego hadn't even started to materialize until I saw this video. Very well done.

I would recommend driving the turntable on the outer ring. That way the teeth of the gears have lot less force on them. You have to put the turntable rightside up then of course.

Better looking, however it looks like the arm is bending downwards a bit and the house on the back is bending downwards as well. Is it possible to connect the upperside of the arm to the house directly? That way the bending will be reduced I think.

Yes this is legal. You can even have a bush on the axle below the wormgear and then they can still rotate independently.

It'll be worth it! good luck with the rebuild

Great model, but don't give up on the tapered beam just yet. It will take some tinkering and possibly some extra tension in your structure, but it is possible to create these angles in lego as well. You can actually use the tension in the structure to your advantage. If you can achieve a compressive strain in the lower, angled beam it will help to counter the sag due to gravity. It will make your model look just that little better. In the Hispabrick no 15 I explain how I used this kind of triangle shape to strengthen my Sukhoi frame. I'm looking forward for the greater setup.

I just did I actually have solved part of the problem by changing the gear ratio even further down (it now takes almost 10 minutes to raise the boom) and strengthening the structure of the cilinder. It can now easily raise the boom if no other sections are in. I have been experimenting with adding rubber bands to add elastic energy (in a similar way as adding springs would do) to the system. It does help a bit, but I'm not there yet. I'll keep you posted on the progress when I have a bit more time at my hands again.

Nice model. Really nice presentation. I do agree with Tinkerbricks that the strings are too thin, but I also agree with you that liftarms would be too thick. Maybe the rigid tubes used in the flex system can be used here?

Nice system, it works like a charm. It's really nice that you can pretension the system as well. Getting the play out of all the pivot points is a must have for more complex control systems is my experience. In my F14 I used the lego flex system as cable system, but that really suffered from both the play in the pivot points and the friction of the bended flex cables in the tubes.

What a beast! That is some impressive excavator. I love the shovel. Normally I am no fan of stacked technic beams to close a surface, but in this case it really works. The whole thing just radiates raw power. I assume that the motors for the tracks are also in the superstrucure?