Jeroen Ottens

I once had a discussion with the technical guys from the Lego piece development about exactly this topic. He explained that it had to do with the mating of parts. If all parts were of the same material it would be difficult to have the desired properties in all combinations. Especially for parts that have both an axle and a male friction element are difficult. This part for instance: If the tolerances are such that this part is just a little too small the normal axles will not fit through the axlehole. But if the tolerances are on the high side a normal bush will no longer fit on the axle part. Using a softer plastic for these parts allows for a bit more room in the tolerance arena. Now I don't know whether this is the reason for this part too (the axle+pin joiner has the same properties, but is made of a harder plastic), but I suspect something like this is playing a role here

In which year was the 8450 ('The mission') released? I suspect it must have been 1999, but I do not see it there (or in the years around it) BTW: I hope that this doesn't pull you back before the hump

The current incarnation (version 4 so far) is L*W*H 15*17*6 studs, and that includes the diff and part of the rear suspension. Motorization shouldn't be too difficult. I did something similar with my Alpha Romeo 4C. This gearbox works with the same quarterturn steps, so either a servomotor or a geared down M-motor will do the job. The driving performance will be horrible though. There are ~20 gears in this version, so the friction will kill all the torque from the driving motor.

I have thought about that , but the DB11 has no rear wheel steering, so I won't incorporate that. The way I would do it though is by combining the steering-mode switcher of the Claes tractor in combination with a rack that slides forward with each step of the sequential gearbox. That way first gear would give counter steering wheels, half gear gives forward steering only and highest gear would give parallel steering wheels. Today I have worked on implementing my 8D+N+R gearbox (in LDD), but it looks like that will eat up all the space near the rearwheels if I have to use the lego wheel connectors to attach the wheels. So there is no space left for the diskbrakes there either ...

No cheating my friend , it will be a true 8 speed sequential operated by paddles. It will take 7 pulls on the paddle to switch from 1 to 8. There is a second lever that is used to switch between D+N+R (very similar to the Porsche setup). In the Hommage I did not use paddleshifters and combined both switches into one gearshifter which can move like a joystick. Moving left to right switches between D+N+R, whilst moving forward & backward (which is only possible in the D postion) will switch the gear up or down. In the DB11 these two functions will be separated switches. One paddle for gearing up, one paddle for gearing down and a separate switch to switch between D+N+R. Obviously the R has only one gearratio (and to go slightly off-topic I wonder whether the Porsche has that as well). I totally agree that the Porsche fenders can't be used at the front. I don't know about the back though. There they might be useable.Once get hold of them I will start experimenting.

You send me an email: jjottens (at) onsmail.nl (replace the (at) with @) and I will provide you with the payment details. The link on rebrickable should work (since today), but it will direct you to an eurobricks bazaar post in which you are also being asked to send me an email. You can PM me as well of course

Actually I have an idea that will require only 4 driving rings, of which one is used for DNR switch (like in my Hommage) and the other three for the 8 speeds. The turnable headlights sound like fun... And maybe even possible given the space The rear spoiler is tucked inside the trunklid, I have troubles enough as it is to make the lines of the backside work, adding a spoiler is most likely sacrificed for looks... AFAIK the DB11 has only 2 wheel steering (and designing a steered, driven & diskbraked rearwheel suspension with the existing wheel connector pieces that fits within the deep Porsche rim is very, very daunting) No I will not add 5L liftarms. The middle flexaxles taper slightly outward from 4 to 5 studs, so that will not work. And it is against one of my many rules: Do not make a curved surface with liftarms over flexaxles Don't know about the doors yet. They are massively long (22 studs I think), which makes the pivot point quite stressed by the momentum gravity is putting on it. Adding a tilt to the pivot can help compensating the sag. And if the real car has slightly upwards tilting doors I will definitely consider this.

The engine is too big for the scale, but I will keep it like that. It's one of the many rules I put unto myself when building MOCs... The gearbox doesn't have the definitive size yet. It will depend on the geometry around the rearaxle. Those differentials are still huge at this scale, so I either have to split the gearbox up so that it fits on both sides of diff, or do something clever with spreading it sideways to fit it under the passenger seats, or behind the diff under the trunk. Adding PF for driving is not an option for me at this scale. It either is slow, or will bring so much stress that the lego will break. I could make the brakes (if I figure something out for that) PF controlled pneumatics, but somehow that feels overcomplicated...

My thoughts exactly. In the designer video it was said that Uwe had made a first prototype in a few weeks time to show at Porsche. This could be that first prototype.

This is my fourth supercar that I built. In all my builds I try to innovate technically (RC+real life shape in the Alfa, sculpted body + scissor doors + modular design in the Mistress, 4D+N+R gearbox in the Hommage and now the 8D+N+R gearbox + potentially diskbrakes in the DB11), but as far as supercars go, that is about it. The only reason for me to do a new supercar after this one would be a convertible. But those rooftop folding mechanisms are so intricate & delicate in real life that I have no clue yet how to replicate that. A break from the mold keeps the mind fresh, so at some point I am sure I wil be grabbed by some other vehicle and be making that (I still hope the SW franchise will cook up some new iconic models).

My bad, you are right, I meant positive caster. Camber is 0 in mid suspension, but the wheels will slightly tilt when moving up and down (topside moves inwards when moving up & down), however this effect is negligible to the play in the suspension. EDIT: Camber is 0 at all suspension states. I have a kingpin inclination, but the wishbones have equal length, so the camber doesn't change when traveling up & down. thx. I am planning on buying the Porsche, but I agree that I am not sure that the wheelarches will fit on this model. If they do, that also seals the fate of the colour, if not, there are still many options... I'll try to design it such that most options stay open (allthough red will be expensive with all the #3 connectors in the bonnet already, and orange will be difficult without the #5 & #6 panels availablility)

EDIT: After just over ten months of development the project is finished. See the last post for more details. Instructions can be bought on my site Hi, I have started the development of my next (and probably my final) supercar, the new Aston Martin DB11. Here is a picture of the original car: I want to use the new rims of the Porsche, so that is basically determining the scale of this model: 712/80.4 = 1 : 8.85 I have started by trying to design the shell of the car first. Starting with the bonnet: As you can see the bonnet hinges at the front and wraps around the headlights that won't tilt with the bonnet: Features I'd like to include in the model (and of which I have the basic design in my head): - independent suspension (double wishbone on the front, multilink in the rear) - realistic steering geometry (ackermann, kingpin inclination, positive camber) - 8 speed sequential gearbox operated by paddleshifters on the steering column - a V12 engine (which, as you can see, still fits under the bonnet) - opening doors, hood & bonnet One feature I really would like to add is working diskbrakes. I have a working concept for both front & rear wheels, but that was based on the assumption that I would be able to put an axle through the middle of the Porsche rims. However it turns out that it is not possible to put an axle all the way through . So I have to go back to the drawing board on these... And if I am forced to use the lego hubs I am not sure that I will be able to include both diskbrakes and realistic steering geometry... What is you opinion? Would you prefer working diskbrakes over steering geometry or the other way around? Are there any other features that you would like to see included? (given the scale it should be possible to cram more functions in it, but I haven't really found any other interesting features) Any other comments, questions and especially constructive criticism is much appreciated.

Hi, I have completed the instructions for my latest Technic supercar, the BMW 328 Hommage. . It features the usual: - 4 wheel independent suspension - proper steering geometry with Ackerman, positive camber and minimal scrub radius - V6 fake engine - opening hood Slightly more unusual it also features a 4+N+R gearbox all operated using the gearshiftlever in the center. Sideways movements switch between D-N-R and when in D moving forward or backwards switches gear up and down. You can buy the instructions for this model by sending me a PM or an email (jjottens (at) onsmail.nl) and I will provide you with the payment details (paypal or IBAN). The price for these instructions is 11 euros. You can buy the instructions for my other supercar, the Mistress, at the same time in a 2 for 19 euro package deal. Jeroen

I am planning on using these new rims on my next supercar, ( I'll start a WIP topic later this week) but to my dismay it doesn't look like an axle can be mounted in the center... Which is a shame, since it will render my working disc brakes solution useless :( I have spotted at least two extra red sliding connectors for the new gearbox rings. Which is very neat, since that would otherwise be a very rare part (and I will need three for my gearbox ;). Also it looks like the doorhandles are mounted with black 2L axles instead of red ones.

Amazing! I thought it looked good and then I realized the scale... Very well done

This looks like a solid build, but I am not sold... Please don't take this as critique, or at least not as negative critique. I actually don't like the front grille. You captured the line very well, but the connectors are too thick. A 3 mm rigid hose would have been a better choice I think. The front window is too square. If you look at the original car the window curves backwards. Uwe's solution with flexaxles that he used in the Porsche would work better here I think. I miss the nice curve of the roofline, going up via the windshield and then curving down again to the rear. Use the Porsche side view to compare. The rear is a jungle of pieces. It all fits in the boundary (allthough I think the rear is a bit too high), but all the lines are destroyed. There should be a horizontal line that connects the top of the doors to the rear area. In your model there is a step... Again, please use this as advice, rather than critique. I am fan of your models, but this one can be better...

I wish you a speedy recovery as well. Watching the 8880 being built again will be a special experience for me. I got this set as a birthday gift from my fellow students just after my dark age. Obviously I built it as quickly as I could and then tore it apart to use the bricks for my own MOC's :) I am sure I will thoroughly enjoy your journey of the 8880. But get well first, don't let our enthousiasm for your builds get in the way with that!

This is a very good first try. The proportions are quite good I think. And you were able to pack a lot of functions in a small package. Areas for improvement: - The whole design is a bit squarish. Especially the roof is almost rectangular. Adding some more angles to the design will make it flow more - The front wheel arches are a little rough. Making them go half round with 19L flexaxles will connect the round wheel better to the bodywork (and our brain will fill the gaps between the flexaxle and the bodywork) - The area above the rearwheels is very cluttered. I see at least three horizontal lines on top of each other (partly due to the use of the old panels) - The spring on the door is connected to a 3L pin with bush that is braced on only one side. It can be braced very easily on both sides. This will give less stress in the pieces Parts I like: - The front grille - The rear wheel arches - The brutal look of the first photo - The many functions So, really, a very good first try.

And here is a site in the Netherlands that claims it is an orange monster: https://misterbricks.nl/lego-technic-42056-porsche-911-gt3-rs.html It also mentions the flappy pedals gearbox, the boxer motor and the box contains a book with interviews of the designers of both Lego and Porsche...

That is an impressive backlog you have with some of the finest models of the last years... I would vote for the black cat. That is such a beast, you will enjoy every minute of building it.

What can I say, all has been said before me... Brilliant looking car. Does it hurt to part from it? Or have you one copy for yourself?

Hi, Welcome to Eurobricks. That is a very densily built, compact car. You have an interesting gearbox concept, a few questions about that: I see you always engage two gears at the same time. Does it use a differential to couple the two clutch-axles? You use a wormgear to switch between gears, which suggests a continuous movement of the gear levers. Is there a separate mechanism to ensure you don't end up halfway between 1st and 2nd gear? Or do you have to just stop the motor at the right moment? I think the looks are not bad, like Epic Technic mentioned it does look a bit like a Huracan. But I do not really like the front part, having two curved lines above each other that both curve upwards from the center gives it a squashed look, like some giant sat on the front. Also the area around the doorhinge is a bit too messy (too many gaps and a too steep angle towards the door) for my taste. I do like the rest of the door though, the angled 3x11 panel on top of the 5x11 looks really good. I think it could use a splash of colour in the body as well. Maybe black window styles, or some black lines in the body to bring some life to all that red. So, well done and keep building

Very nice. Striking colour, I like the brickbuilt details. And very well hidden power functions. It has a short wheelbase with a long tail, that feels slightly out of proportions. But other than that, it's perfect

Ah another WIP from you, I look forward to slowly seeing this model being build again... IIRC you have already passed one difficult assembly stage, if my memory serves me correct I found it hard to get the axles in the 5x3x0.5 liftarms (or the other way around). Leg godt

Thank you all for the positive comments. The model is on rebrickable now: http://rebrickable.com/mocs/JoJO_lego/bmw-328-hommage I know, I know , but a 12L engine just didn't fit under the hood... Nope, I use two flexaxles to hold the grille pieces The geabox is based on the one I used in my Alfa Romeo 4C Spider. But this one works 100% reliable . If you really want to know how it works you'll have to get the buildinginstructions Wheelarches are notoriously difficult to model (I think they cheated with the 42056). This time I opted for an open design to minimize the clutter of stacked beams & pieces to fill the holes. The issue is that in this area it is all angled & curved lines, which is nearly impossibe to recreate while maintaining the flow. I actually didn't use stickers. I folded some pieces of paper around the panels and secured them with some stickytape. Stickers would look better though I think, but I didn't want to go through the exercise of learning how to make custom stickers. Yes, when in D position it is possible to move the stick back & forth to switch up or down. I agree with this being harder to model than a self-invented design. This one took nearly twice as much time as my Mistress (a lot of that time was needed to design the gearbox. But even that was more complicated because of the very limited space behind the chairs). Still, I think you are more than talented enough to pull it off as well.