Jeroen Ottens

Cool to see this project is still alive (and congrats with your graduation). Does the landing gear fold into the engine? And still leaves enough space to show some engine details? And is strong enough to support the ship? That's impressive... Those wings will be a challenge. Do you plan to taper them to one stud at the edge?

Hi, Instructions are in the making... But as you can imagine it takes some time, even for a instructionwizard like Legolijntje is (he is making the instructions). A partslist is not available yet, but ~60% of the parts are from the Porsche. Jeroen

I suddenly just love Nexo knights

Promising start indeed. Looking forward to see more WIP photos

Thanks everybody for the suggestions for the colour scheme. I had never heard of the blue angels, so that certainly looks like a contender colourscheme For now I concentrate on getting the functions all inside. I have been able to fit an ejection seat mechanism in the cockpit space. Here is a short video showing it in action: It only has one seat since I only have one of these new nicely curved panels. The whole mechanism is 4 studs high counting from the topside of the black panel which gives it just enough clearance for the joystick controls to pass through below it.

I am a bit of a motorcycle noob, are the airfilters the striped part below the fuel tank? Depending on the scale I can think of four parts that sort of resemble that: Part 4869 Engine, Smooth Large, Center Part 4229 Engine, Strakes, 2 x 2 Thin Top Plate Part 2907 Technic Ball with Grooves (only available in old grey) Part 32060 Technic, Gear Timing Wheel 8 Tooth

Hi, After a few years of procrastinating, but pushed into action by the new technic Jet, I have decided to try to build my F14A Tomcat again, studless... Here is a first shot: The ambition in terms of functionality: 6 motorized functions (one motor with a manual switch gearbox): - Landing gear - Landing gear bay doors (2 for the front landing gear, 2x3 for the main landing gear) - Canopy - Swing wings - Pneumatic pump - Gatling gun 6 pneumatic functions: - Arrester hook - Brakeflaps (2 in the tail + 2 on the main wings) - Canard wing - Inlet deflector shields - Leading flaps & trailing slats on the main wings - Main landing gear lock (when landing gear is down) The aircraft is controlled with differentially controlled wings at the back so that they act as tailerons and rudders on the vertical tail wings. The whole set can be operated manually with two gears at the bottom, one to control pitch and one to control roll. I hope to be able to connect the control surfaces to the joystick in the cockpit, but space is a little tighter in the version than in my old version (I try to build to scale this time, the previous version had a too high cockpit). The front landing gear is suspended. When completely compressed the hook for the catapult on the aircraft carrier is deployed. The landing gear can also be steered with the roll control when it is deployed. The main landing gear will swivel around it's own axis when it retracts. A 3D linkage system will guide it, just like the real thing. I don't think I will add suspension to it. With the weight of the plane the suspension will always be compressed, so it is a bit useless. I'd rather use the space to make a good connection for the pneumatic lock. One thing I am not sure about whether or not I will be able to fit is the ejection seats. My previous studfull version did have ejection seats, but because the space is more limited I fear I will not be able to fit those in. The biggest question I have now is which colour to build it in (that's why the surface elements are all darkblue at this moment, I can easily select that colour and change it to the final livery)... The obvious colour choice would be LBG. Unfortunately there are hardly any panels available in LBG on BL and some panels don't even exist in that colour. For instance I expect to be using a lot of 11x3 curved panels with 10 pinholes, since the paneling will have to provide a lot of the rigidity of the structure. But these panels are only available in red, blue, yellow, black, dark blue medium azure and medium blue and not in LBG. Black is a colour that will have all parts, but it will make the plane look very, erh..., black. A white and red combo can maybe work, but will look quite stuntplane-ish I'm afraid. All red maybe? Thoughts are appreciated. I'll keep you posted on the progress, Leg godt Jeroen

Ah, now I see, of course... Still, no clutch gear needed. The rubberbands will act as a torque limiter. If you want to get rid of the rubberband you can see if you can make the pulleywheel (or another wheel with an axle hole) drive the little wheel (like I wrongly assumed first). That way you have both a torque limiter and no rubberbands... But it does require a big wheel in the centerline of the structure, which is not so easy to couple to the motor. One other remark: The M-motor turns relatively fast, the pulley-wheel to half-bush will increase that speed even more. Have you tried this in real life? If it is too fast you can use half bushes instead of the pulleywheels, that should slow the whole thing down considerably.

You don't need a white clutch gear. These are used to prevent the motor from stalling when too much torque is required. In your case you already have a torque limiter because the pulley wheel relies on friction to transfer the torque to the wheel. Whether or not the motor will overheat will depend on the friction & load when driving. I assume the yellow bands are used to connect the frontwheel to the backwheel? If so, this will introduce quite some friction. If the train can run without the rubberbands I would definitely recommend to remove them. The other thing to pay attention to is the bracing of the axles. Each axle needs to be braced at two points preferrably, close to the position where the gears are. So the small wheel is braced properly (allthough it can be better still if the #6 connectors would be restricted in rotation by something else than the axle going through it).

As promised a belly shot: When I was studying this car I learned that the stiffness comes from the carbonfiber chassis. In fact when they chopped of the roof of the 675LT to make it a spider the stiffness hardly decreased. So I thought it was an intersting exercise to try to create a similar structure in this car. The big black section in the middle is the shell that wraps around the chairs and is what gives the car it's stiffness. Consequently I didn't need a central column running from the back to the front. I used only 2 vertically oriented 5x7 frames as central column between the chairs, but these do not connect the rear to the front. The force lines mostly flow through the 11x3 curved frames at the edges. This 'carbonfiber' tub was actually the starting point of the design. This time I designed from the inside out (and from the back to the front).

Done

Can you add a yellow line accent to this black version at the bottom to see if you can make it a true successor of the 8880?

I use the hard springs, so you could try using the soft springs to lower the suspension I did consider that, but my client preferred the PF IR receivers, so I used those. It will be interesting to see whether or not you can make an Sbrick fit. As you can imagine it is quite crowded inside the car.

Very recognizable conversation I am actually not building too many things at the same time. The DB11 project was stopped every time I started a new commission, so I was sort of serial monogamous building These commissions are pushing me (way) out of my comfortzone. I just love being in that new territory with this mix of adventure (this all new and exciting to me) and dread (but will I be able to meet the expectations of the customer?) Suspensions always look too high on my models... I usually aim for ~1 stud travel without the wheels touching the bodywork. In real life the wheels sit almost flush with the bodywork and sink inside when the springs are compressed. Only the Porsch fenders might be able to be placed so flush to the wheels, but than the diameters of the wheel and the fender do not match for that... Actually the doors gave me the most headaches... The roof took it's time as well, but the real trick to make it work just popped in my head one morning. That didn't feel like hard work I'll make a photo of the bottomside coming weekend (I need some natural lighting) All, thanks for all the positive feedback and the constructive criticism

Great model A true successor of your Pagani Zonda, very impressive functionality and gorgeous bodywork How many Sbricks are in the model?

I had the same feeling when I started on my DB11, but maybe I shouldn't have started a WIP topic... Some people might have been stockpiling for that as well, since they are so obviously in sight...

It is interesting that you bring up the nose. This area I have been struggling with in terms of proportion... The length between the wheel axis and the front is good to scale, but somehow the nose looks too stubby. On my DB11 I have the same issue, but there I opt for a longer nose to keep the profile sleek at the expense of accuracy. My guess is that this has to do with the extra clearance that we need around the LEGO wheels. It leaves very little room to work with to get those sleek lines...

There are some red #3 connectors visible in the prelim pictures. fingers crossed that they wil make it to the final version... Then we can start complaining about the orange #3 connectors instead BTW, I forgot to mention that you made the instructions, so people now know what quality they can expect As usual, your comments are spot on. Those doors have given me the most headache in the design process (the roof mechanism 'popped in my head' one morning when I woke up). I use a tilted pivot point (with the associated structure around it) to get the angles somewhat right, furthermore there is a spring mechanism inside that keeps the door locked both in down and in up-position and then the wheel is right in front of it with the usual horrible pivotpoint of a LEGO wheel which makes it pivot almost inside the door... Finally there are some tricky angles in the door itself that also needed a supportstructure... So yes, at some point I decided that this was the best I could come up with within a reasonable time. I do realize now that there is a red 3L beam missing in the video , that does help to make the front arch a bit more consistent than it is now...

Thx guys Rare parts: 14x #3 connectors in red 6x 11x3 panels in red (these are surprisingly rare as well) 1x V2 receiver The models are waiting for approval on Rebrickable (I put them on there separately).But here you can find the partslists: http://bricksafe.com/pages/JeroenOttens/mclaren-partslist The white version does not contain any rare parts apart from the V2 receiver as far as I am aware... Jeroen

Hi, I would like to present my latest MOC: The McLaren 675 LT Spider It is a full RC model with the following functions: - independent suspension on all wheels - butterfly doors - RC drive (2x L-motor) - RC steering (1x servo motor) - RC spoiler (1x M-motor) - RC convertible roof (1x M-motor) A video of the model can be found on Youtube: Instructions for both the red and a white version are available from my website: This model was built in commission, which I have to thank my client for, because I otherwise I would have dismissed this challenge as too ambitious. I always had the ambition of making a car with a convertible roof, but I always shied away from it since I had no idea how to make such a feature. Then to make a convertible roof that is remote controlled and has a an extra pivotpoint in the roof itself I would never have tried. I am quite pleased to see that the old adagium still holds: 'You can build anything from Lego' Comments and questions are welcome as usual, Leg godt, Jeroen

LEGOLAND quality

Very nice catamaran! Smooth and slick, well done. The SUV is not my cup of tea I'm afraid. But that catamaran...

Great model! Too bad about the steering, but I guess that if you hadn't mentioned it,nobody would have noticed... I love the colourblocking & steering function. And those Tumbler tires are perfect for this kind of trailer.

Nice clean build! I like the solution for the angled outrigger, looks solid

The piercing eyes of the Alfa are mostly created through the slanted line above the eyes (an exagerated version of this effect can be seen in the angry birds characters. Try to imagine the black line above the eyes of angry birds not being there to see what I mean). Panels are ideal for adding such a 'brow' above the headlights (see 8070 for example), but since you like to stay panelless you'll have to come up with your own solution (maybe a thin liftarm can do the trick as well).