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Everything posted by Saberwing40k
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Actually, that is quite untrue. There are many different options for the Volvo EW160, we even had a video showing it. Same goes for the Claas, and even more so for the bucket wheel excavator, as it could conceivably look like any excavator of that type, or, as it is not liscensed, none of them, instead being a mashup of many design features from varying machines.
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If size is your limit, there is another way to make a compressor stop at max pressure. On the compressor, you could have a clutch gear, so when the compressor reaches max pressure, the clutch slips, and it stops. What is the approximate stud dimensions of the space you are working with? Knowing that would help a lot.
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I'm thinking that the PP wheels are far more likely to hold their value, as the odds of them being reissued is slim. My recomendation is that you make a deal, sort of a long term loan, with somebody on this board. They would get the wheels, on the condition that they do not sell them, and when you want to use them, you would just ask for them back. That way, you don't have to worry about price dropping,or hiking.
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Oh, they've done it before, only with the first flagship supercar ever, 8880. That set has not been surpassed, at least in terms of drivetrain and real car features. If this Ultimate IP car really is ultimate, I'd say it better have: All wheel drive All wheel steer, with selectable mode. at least a 6 speed gearbox adjustable suspension cool doors full interior lights Be a Mercedes G63 AMG 6x6 But, it will probably be a while before we find out anything.
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I don't know if this has been asked before, but my model has a bounding box 48x15x13 studs, resulting in a total volume of 9,360 cubic studs. Would I be able to add a few small parts that protrude beyond the bounding box, provided that the total volume still does not exceed the 10,000 stud limit?
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Those parts on the cab are actually not Znap, but from the Cybermaster set. Those Cybermaster sets have a lot of unique and rare parts.
- 12 replies
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What, what do you think it would be like? Also, senpai noticed me.:)
- 3 replies
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- [TC9]
- Competition
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Well, I've had this thing in a good state of WIP for some time, so I may as well share it. I'm really motivated right now, because of the fact that I missed out on pretty much every competition between TC5 and now. I came close to entering TC6, but didn't enter TC7 due to lack of motivation, and same thing for TC8. So, I am back, with a vengeance. My entry is a five axle truck. Its loosely based on my [TRIPLE] contest entry, or at least the truck part, but this model is an improvement in every way. The steering works better, the engine works better, and now the chassis sports a lift axle. That middle part was quite difficult to design, but I ultimately got it right, after 3 revisions. The two rear axles drive a fake six cylinder engine, which works far better than the old truck with its V8. The steering, as I mentioned, has been dramatically improved. It still uses Ackerman correction, but the actuation is accomplished by levers and Pitman arms versus the complicated and difficult to use gearbox and racks of the old truck. Getting the two axles to turn at different angles was quite a difficult process, but I found a solution that is robust and simple, after about 4 revisions and a few hours of frustrated facepalming. The truck is not quite finished, but when it is, the chassis will be the same for both A and B models. This solution, I feel, is a bit more suited for this competition than having to rebuild the whole model. Instead, part of the model will be rebuilt, in the form of two attachments to the truck, using the same parts; This is similar to how 8421 works. One module will be an Effer style knuckle boom crane, with the other one being... something else. In spite of appearances, the truck does fit in a bounding box 15x13x48 studs, resulting in a volume of 9,360 cubic studs. The only exception is the steering axle, which will be shortened. The fenders are also not final, and will be changed. The truck in the bounding box: Inabox by Saberwing007, on Flickr The truck: Truck by Saberwing007, on Flickr Lift Axle in action. The lift is controlled by the 12z gear ahead of the axle. Lift Axle by Saberwing007, on Flickr Maximum steering lock. Steering by Saberwing007, on Flickr There will be more to come, as the cab, and then the crane are added.
- 3 replies
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- Competition
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See, I don't see any new parts in that model, at all, so I doubt that that is the case. As for critical structural problems, I just don't see there being a way to screw up such a simple model. I don't know how the procurement system works, and how retailers order things, but given that there are literally no other examples of this happening, that we can point to, that seems unlikely. I just see no solution from our perspective that would explain it. Regardless of what the problem is, since none of us have any experience with the production side of things, we are not going to arrive at a conclusion, no matter what. However, like I said, I am waiting for official confirmation, which may or may not come before saying it is canceled.
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Given how... unpolished some of the 1H sets were, I am preparing for the worst when it comes to 2H. Worst case scenario is that Claas Xerion is the normal flagship, the Volvo excavator is canceled, and the bucket wheel excavator is the smallest set. Also, the ultimate IP car is an ugly rendition of a (insert car you hate here), with most of the cost going to the license, and few functions. Cynicism aside, it might be that the design for some sets of the 1st half were rushed to give the designers time to get the 2nd half stuff really good. I also thought up a plausible reason for the 42051 fire truck being delayed: it could be that since there is so much red on the model, any issue with making the red parts would be disastrous. So, the cause might have been a bad batch of red plastic, and that might affect the initial production run, and Lego has not announced it because they haven't gotten that sorted yet. I can see a lot of evidence in favor of it being canceled, and it's not that I don't believe Anio, but I'm not calling it until it is actually 2016.
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Yeah, most of these sets, minus the race cart and everything smaller, are way overpriced. The helicopter is only ten dollars less than the 42042 Crawler Crane, but it has 400 fewer parts. The similar size and theme 42025 is the same price, yet has 200 more parts. The mine loader is a little bit light, on both functions and parts, for a $50 set, but it isn't as terrible as the dragster. 42050 is a 600 part set, with no PF, and yet it costs 80 dollars. I don't know what is going on, but I hope it is an anomaly confined to these sets. On the other hand, Lego has been keeping that price per part ratio fairly constant over the past several years, so there is that. At the very least, I will then have more money to buy stuff I am really interested in, like 42042 and 42038.
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Try moving the switches on the control unit. There should be a little green LED on the front part of the emitter, that only lights up when a switch is moved. If none of them do, you either have a bad controller, or dud batteries. If the controller is good, get your receiver, hook it up to batteries and motors, and push the frequency switch up to the top of the receiver. Then, take the remote, and push the frequency switch on it up to the front of the remote. Make sure you have clear line of sight between the remote and the receiver. Make sure you do all of this out of direct sunlight. Due to how the Power Functions system works, direct sunlight will interfere with the remote functions. Finally, check the remote, again. Below the two orange switches are two small, black ones. Make sure they are either all the way forward, or all the way back. If that does not help you, try taking a look at the instructions for set 8275, which has a fairly detailed pictorial on how Power Functions works. http://cache.lego.com/bigdownloads/buildinginstructions/4533636.pdf Or, try the FAQ section of the Power Functions subsite: http://powerfunctions.lego.com/en-us/default.aspx
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Use the custom differential. The 3L differential have been known to slip under high torque in even single motor models. I don't know about breakage, but 1XL motor will shred single bevel gears and even axles if you aren't careful. Out of all the models I have seen that use four, most have each motor running a wheel, and not having them connected. The only exception I have seen with diffs is Sariel's red Hummer H1. Even then, that thing had portal axles, which would reduce the stress on the diffs. I don't remember if he had any breakage issues, but you could ask him. In the end, it all comes down to what your vehicle will be doing. If its a trial truck like vehicle, use a custom differential, and have gearing down between the diff and the wheels. If its a tank, Sariel built a Leopard 2 with four XL motors, and he had one at each drive sprocket, which is what I would recommend.
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Is it right to refuse to sell a MOC?
Saberwing40k replied to Sariel's topic in General LEGO Discussion
I know you don't live in the US, and laws about this kind of thing are probably different, but my recommendation is going to a thrift store, and finding a nice baseball bat. Try to keep up with what this person says online. If they make a direct threat, screenshot it, as posts disappear. But, I'd say that the odds of this stalker doing anything are slim. I don't know if anything they've done is actionable to police either. -
Technic General Discussion
Saberwing40k replied to Jim's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
This is going to keep flying back until the heat death of the universe, but I found something interesting related to flying Lego: A little quadcopter from Parrot with Lego compatible studs all over it. http://www.parrot.com/usa/products/airborne-cargo-drone/?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Display&utm_campaign=2015Q4Blast_MINIDRONES_US_Display_GoogleGDN I also found this thing. apparently, it is not actually that difficult to make a Lego airframe fly if you use non Lego motors and control systems. So, do you guys think that counts, or no? I'd say it qualifies, because greater than 50% of the takeoff weight is in Lego parts. You can read more and see a video at BrickNerd: http://bricknerd.com/home/technic-quadcopter-5-2015 -
Is it right to refuse to sell a MOC?
Saberwing40k replied to Sariel's topic in General LEGO Discussion
I just love it when people with a massive sense of entitlement crawl out of the woodwork and whine about how what they were given not being good enough for them. Parents really need to impart gratitude and the idea of earning something to their children, which I feel is just not being done. By the way, Sariel, do you think you could send me the 42052 Helicopter you have as an early Christmas present? Of course, I'm just kidding, but out of curiosity, what happens to the models you review? Do you part them out, keep them on display, or do you have to send them back to Lego? If you get to keep them, it might be interesting if you had a raffle or contest to give them to other fans. Although, you probably would not want to deal with that hassle. Although, if you were allowed to, they might make good prizes for contests on this forum. -
100% correct. I hate how some people think it is their right to do whatever they want without reprucussions, beacause "free country." Freedom of speech does not mean that you can spout racial slurs or asinine, unfounded opinions without criticism. Free Market does not make it right for you to support flouters of copyright law who make illegal knockoffs. Also, we're not White Knights for suggesting that we should not support companies that rip off Lego products. Is Lego perfect? Absolutely not, but there would be nothing but problems if enough people bought bootlegs. I feel that this is an area where we, as a fandom, should support Lego by only buying Lego products, and warning fellow fans about bootlegs. So yes, we can't tell you what to do, but you can't complain if you do a bad thing, and people call you on it. Also, if you want the figures so bad, have you considered buying them from Bricklink or Ebay? If you don't want to buy an expensive set, you have options to get what you want without having to resort to bootleg figures. Don't whine about how Lego spread figures throughout sets, you have options.
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Nope, MLX does stand for 1060. In Roman numerals, M=1000, L=50, and X=10. Therefore, MLX is 1060.