Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'Chassis'.
Found 7 results
-
From the Classic Vampire Movie, "The Lost Boys" I've seen this movie at least 50 times and only tonight, I caught this 1 second clip... Of course the fact that I finally watched it in widescreen probably was the reason... -
It is AWD and it has a 7 speed and reverse gearbox, it doesn´t have to be a porsche, I can still change the fake engine I am thinking in 4 different cars at this moment. It works better than expected . http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zaig2TfcWL4&feature=youtu.be '>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMzqBx-loAY&feature=youtu.be
-
I haven't posted any of my own content recently due to lack of time and ideas, but about a month ago my last attempt at a high speed vehicle was sitting on my desk, partially disassembled, when I got a spark in my mind and I knew exactly what to do. Previously I made multiple failed attempts at making a complex independent suspension work, but I couldn't get a practical result without modifying parts, which I wanted to avoid. So this time around I went for a solid axle with 4 link suspension. I spent a long time building and rebuilding the car until I got a balance of power, weight, and strength that I was happy with. Apart from a couple pieces I forgot to add here and there, this is the final build: I could have gone for lower weight, but the reinforcements were necessary to bring the chassis flex to a minimum, letting the suspension do its job. The car barely bottoms out under full compression, but I doubt this will happen out on the road. The higher clearance and lack of u-joints should reduce the risk of damaging parts. The rear wheels are driven by two buggy motors each, acting as an electronic differential. Since the motors are DC motors, this system will never be perfect, but it's as good as it gets. The only modified lego pieces on this build are the pneumatic cylinders (now act as dampened shocks) and the wheelhubs (made by nicjasno at LPEpower ) The front suspension is independent multilink, my own blend of various ideas I got from nicjasno's Standard servo steering. I lubricated the large ball joints on the upper 'wishbones' to reduce friction. Nice and smooth underside, which also adds to the structural rigidity (note the numerous pins) Another look at the multilink setup in action I've already tested this model on the road, and it performs very well, but I won't be making a video until I receive an order of 4 brand new custom wheel hubs, as the current set have experienced some serious wear and tear over the past year thanks to my punishing tests If you are new or aren't familiar with my previous projects, this chassis is powered by a near 12 volt battery and a 3rd party RC system that I made work with Lego motors. Multiple people have asked why I don't build bodywork for any of these large scale vehicles, and to be honest, I really enjoy building the chassis, while bodywork is...meh. I could get better with practice, but I simply don't want to spend time perfecting a body, and the extra weight would reduce the play factor, unless I become a wizard with flex axles . I think this model is the ultimate balance of speed, moderate realism, and weight, (within my building style) so I don't see myself making anything new soon with my other hobbies and work taking up most of my time. Special thanks to nicjasno for the tips on the front suspension, and for making the LPEpower parts/show. Feel free to leave any comments/criticisms/ideas for a new project. Enjoy! -
Hi there folks, thanks for taking a look @ my creation. When I started driving (real) cars I loved to lower them, coilovers, airride, I tried everything! Now that I drive a real life Subaru Forester (1998) and take it off road occasionally, I am starting to like off roading and their techniques a lot! So I wanted to create a (small as possible) Lego off road chassis with these elements built in: -Front wheel steering system -Rigid axle with free suspension movement front and rear. Capable of off roading and some rock crawling. -4x4 connection with center diff. Front and rear axle locked. -Turning engine concept. After trying a lot of concepts in LDD, I figured its quite hard to put these elements into a very small working chassis. I tried to fit a Boxer engine (Subaru) in there, but it just wouldnt fit. I came up with a chassis wich I wanted to order @ Lego 'pick a brick', but figured that 'pick a brick' does not have enough bricks available I checked some more shops, but lost hope to order the separate bricks. So I wanted to show you guys my concept wich is not complete. Also LDD has some issues with the hinge tool. Its a very nice piece of software, don't get me wrong What do you guys think? (More pictures coming, photobucket is acting a bit strange, sorry) -
Hello! I haven't received my last bulk order from Canada so I'll go ahead and start the WIP topic as the model stands now. I have finished the rear axle and won't make any changes until I see fit. The difference between this version compared to the previous 5 is that I want to attempt more complex suspension systems while still retaining enough strength for the speeds seen with my V5. The drivetrain is different in order to accommodate the rear suspension. 4 Buggy motors driving a 40 tooth gear from the slower output, which drives a modified 4L differential that I've had for a while-it can handle more torque. Photos: It can be locked but I used the driving ring as more of a spacer. I used pneumatic cylinders with Lego springs inside similar to nicjasno's large scale builds. It might be too stiff but we shall see. This version has the sturdiest construction with no chassis flex, and I'll try to keep it that way with a mostly studded frame. I limited the travel so it won't scrape too easily, and the unequal length arms allow for gradual negative camber. If you haven't noticed, the rear is an even stud length rather than the odd length I usually work with, so I had to use some odd pieces to get the desired features. Like I said in another topic, I made sure the rear suspension used nicjasno's custom hubs, and this is the simplest and strongest idea I came up with. Very unusual building techniques were used, but I'm very satisfied with the result. I might have to reinforce some elements later on. Everything is snug, with no room to spare. Hope you all like it so far, the next update should be when the frame starts to take shape. Another note: only a few pieces were modified, which upsets the ancient purist inside me, but I promise I will avoid mangling parts as much as I can
-
Hello, after a long pause I decided to begin a new project, another high speed chassis, but this time I wanted to build a chassis with proper driven independent suspension and lighter than my previous build. After many attempts in the past, I concluded that this wouldn't be possible without printed pieces, as lego u-joints just can't survive the shock load of 4 buggy motors. My previous MOCs either had solid driven axles or suspension using only one u-joint, which didn't have ideal handling. Now, after testing efferman's 3D printed CV joints (coupled with Lego spherical gears, similar to 8880) on a small MOC, I used them on this large scale project. Results - it works! They easily handle the power and CV joints are more smooth in general. There is still room for changes and even after these pictures were taken I reinforced the rear suspension. Features/details: RWD - 4 Buggy motors, with 2 powering each wheel, they aren't coupled through the center. Independent suspension on all wheels, front uses efferman's printed wishbones. Servo steering Anti-roll bars 3rd party electronics and custom battery pack link for the curious Total non-Lego/modified parts: Wheel hubs made by nicjasno link Modified 9L links Printed wishbone pieces link Printed lower suspension arm pieces link Printed spherical gear holder (CV joint) link Modified pneumatic cylinders Photos: ^Pneumatic tubes work well to tie down the battery. Excuse the sand, took it offroad for a bit Oh man, I should never sell my parts after using them like this Enjoy!
-
I like building awd remote controlled cars in middle and small scale. Building big scale cars take much time and details. And the second problem of big scale - it cant drive duo to high weight. My Middle scaled mods/mocs of 9395 and 8081 have very simple transmission with diffs, that cannot be locked. Now i am going to make new middle-scale chassis using new 2xL motors with some advanced features: 1) live axles 2) possibilty to run fast or slow with more torque 3) lockable rear diff 4) awd/ rwd switcher (not realized yet) 5) wide of axles 13-15 studs max. In my mind middle scale is 62,20 wheels or 68,8 balloons. Iam going to build on my chassis scale model look cars. But first I want to develop strong and effective chassis. First I began from rear axle. As you can see diff can be locked. Next step was making middle part with motors and gearbox. After that front axle appeared. For now I have: Front axle suspension kinematics needs improvements Up p: motors work from 12 to 20 teeth At the bottom L shaped black liftarm - is gearbox gear holder. After previous gear (12:20 from motors) next gear can be manually selected again 12:20 or back 20:12. Low and high modes. Low gear mode for obstacles High gear mode for faster speed Changing gear stage: L liftarm is dismounted, after that I move 12 and 20 gears on the axle left or right for needed gear, and then fix gear by L liftarm. I have made some test with big (96's) and small (62 and 68) wheels. transmission is strong with such big tires, so I hope it will be strong enough for 1 kg weight (with body) with fsmaller tires. Dromt wheels dpfall down because U joint axles is too short to hold such big and heavy tires, but good for 62 and 68 [/img]
