Saberwing40k

Are you referring to a creation, or a real car? By the way, we have instructions on Rebrickable, now.

So, this set is selling well, I hope that doesn't encourage Lego to think they can get away with sets that function poorly. Or, do most people just believe the hype without thinking about it at all?

It's just lighting, it's right under a yellow part after all. A better question is why are two being used?

Seconded, but I'll add a couple of things. You might be able to make a manual compressor that can run a small engine slowly, but for any speed, you'll either need a large compressor that can run air tools, or some kind of accumulator, like a bunch of 1 or 2 liter soda bottles.Maybe you should ask Nicjanso what kind of compressor he uses to run his engines.

So, a long time ago, I decided, on a whim, to make a small, fast car. Inspired by Mahjqa's Ice9 racer, I built something similar, but with 5 years of parts advances, namely the L and servo motor. Ice18 by Saberwing007, on Flickr it is similarly compact, but I was not able to make a nice shell for it, and lost interest in the project. As a matter of fact, this just goes to show that I don't really like fast things. Controlling them indoors, in a tiny apartment, on carpet, is a pain in the rear. Not helping is the fact that using stock PF outside is impossible, and then you have control delay, which all in all makes the experience no fun, at least for me. Maybe if I had an Sbrick... Anyway, let's go into some technical details. My version uses an L motor for propulsion, and due to the new diff, has a slightly lower gear ratio,3.57:1 vs 5:1 on Ice9. However, the rpm at the wheels is actually faster, due to the speed of the L motor, 971 vs 730 on Ice9. You do need quite a run up to use that speed, however. Because of the servo and L motor having more mounts, I was able to use them, as well as the battery pack, as stressed members. The chassis is quite floppy without the battery box, in fact. But hey, it adds lightness. Ice18 by Saberwing007, on Flickr Versus the above view, there is not really a whole lot to see that's different on the bottom view, but most people want it. Ice18 by Saberwing007, on Flickr The gears are braced on all sides, there is no way for them to skip. There is no way for axles to walk out, for that matter. Ice18 by Saberwing007, on Flickr Steering lock is good, there are no restrictions, or chassis rubbing. And, of course, my inspiration. Ice Nine views by mahjqa, on Flickr I might be able to build small, but I sure can't do stylish designs, or photography, like Mahjqa can. I also have an .LXF file, it has a canopy, which is optional. It will also be posted to Rebrickable, and I will add that link when it is moderated. LXF:http://www.brickshel...Ideas/ice18.lxf Rebrickable:http://rebrickable.com/mocs/Saberwing/ice18 Thanks for viewing. P.S. There is not going to be a video, there isn't really anything to show, and I need the servo for a project that's a contest entry.

Actually, none of this is new. Lego stores have had little kiosks that display 3d models of sets based on box image for a long time. But, the interactive parts are new, but I find that to be more of a gimmick than anything.

Before I answer, we have some guidelines as to what to do about bumping old threads. Well, the hubless gear, if you fixed it in place, might make a good planetary gear, but Lego makes parts that work better for that, and are smaller.

42043 Steering linkages. by Saberwing007, on Flickr I've got a design, it's the one on the right, yours is on the left. I've actually been working a lot on my own mod, but it is on hold, because I'm building a Porsche.

Look at posts 86 & 88 of this topic:http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=92099&st=75

Now that is one ugly, but brilliant take on a creep from the deep. This is quite excellent, with some nice building techniques going on. The only thing that's a little bit odd is the trans blue stuff with the milky blue parts, but to be fair the original had that to. And, when I say that this guy is ugly, I mean he looks like some hideous creep from the deep, but the model itself is very well built, and the functions are unobtrusive. Good job.

Okay, so I've got an uncommon Racers set with stickers on the parts. However, I want to use the parts, Technic panels, in creations, and I don't like the stickers. Is it in any way possible to remove stickers and store them in such a way that they could be reused? Or am I foolish for trying, and better off just getting a new sticker sheet if/when I decide to sell the set?

Yes and no. Technically speaking, RC buggy motors have the old 9v connector, so you will need a PF adapter cable as a go between. But, the motors draw a lot of current, so much so that the V1 PF receivers will shut down due to their thermal regulators. I don't know if this happens to battery boxes to, but it might. So, you can use them with PF equipment, just not at full power. I actually have four motors and two receivers, but I got them in the sets they came in. I ran the numbers, and I determined that it was only a little bit more expensive for me to find the sets than to buy the parts individually. Also, try Ebay, as sometimes the sets will appear for less than the average price on Bricklink.

That part is to idiot proof the differential assembly, meaning that the differential can only be inserted one way. But, for a non motorized model with only two wheel drive, it makes little sense. Sure, it is kind of understandable to have it on a model with 2 or more diffs, like 42043 or 9398, but that step plus the other stuff in 42056, like the color barf, indicates to me that Lego thinks that the average consumer is stupid, even the buyers of an advanced set like this. And, it's not like even putting in the differential backwards would affect this set, at all. So, it's a completely unneeded step. For all their hype, Lego does not actually seem to be thinking about how an actual 16 year old builder, or adult fan, for that matter, would approach this set. Or maybe it's rated 16+ because you have to be an advanced builder to work out all the flaws with modifications. Let's hope that doesn't become a precedent. Sorry for the mini rant. I just wanted to explain the part as best as possible. Also, you probably will have spare parts, Sariel sure did in his video review. It's fine, you likely did nothing wrong. Now, does anyone care to explain why that pin with stop bushing has a 1x1 liftarm on it? That part is wholly redundant.

I actually didn't do any mods. I just have my shift paddles at the angle they'd be at if the rubber bands were on the paddles. Also, I've got the parts, in the LDD custom parts thread:http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=42465&st=75 P.S. Many thanks to JunkStyleGio for sending me the file for the chassis.

I've got some of the new parts from 42056: #23801 Wheel Hub with Axle Holes: My version: Actually, there are two. Both versions have pros and cons: The version on the left is connected to the wishbones, but this relies on a bug, and can not steer. The version on the right can steer, but is not connected to anything. Neither version has the indentations on the inside like the real piece, which could limit steering angle. Link:http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/saberwing2/Ideas/42056_wheel_hubs.lxf Next up is the 3x7 panel, part #24119 My version: Geometry is not exact, but all connections are useable. Part is not connected together. Link:http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/saberwing2/Ideas/panel3x7.lxf I have got to say, LDD having the 1x1 liftarm is very useful for making custom parts. Also, hot tip for making these parts more useable in creations and renders: Download the files, and then create a group our of all the pieces in the custom part. Then, make a template from that selection. If you do it like that, every time you use the template tool to insert the part into a model, LDD will automatically make that part a group, which means that you can use the group tool to select the part, and move it as if it were a regular part, without having to fuss with the multiple selection tool. This is particularly useful when using custom parts that are not connected.

Every so often, Brickshelf goes down for maintenance. Just wait a day or so, it should be back up by tomorrow.

Oh man, I've been trying to do this forever, it's hard. I'm still working on it, but i may have an idea.

I've driven several things, mostly small ones, but I've operated boom lifts, scissor lifts, backhoes, excavators, and fork lifts. But, it's actually the reverse order, my interest in Technic led me to working with the vehicles in real life.

I've got a dummy version of the 3 x7 panels, and an idea for the new wheel hubs up front. I was working on the file too, but my computer puked and destroyed it. But, I've still got the dummy parts, and the shift mechanism. I manged to get it to actually be in the correct position, to. Do you want me to share the files for the parts? Also, could you share the LDD file with us? I've got some ideas for the chassis, but I don't have enough physical parts to build it. Edit: added file request, and deleted image. I forgot about the not quoting images.

Can I has one or two of those micromotors? Please? Pretty Please? Anyway, I don't see Lego doing thin liftarms longer than the existing ones, you might actually be able to break them at longer lengths. And, they're not like plates. But, somebody did indeed make some custom connecting rods, as seen in this topic:http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=74662. Also, Dr_Spock, you could always ask Efferman if he could whip you up something, if none of those ones fit your needs.

I kind of think you're a fool for trying. Sure, some of the parts might be expensive, but I figure that you'd spend less, if you shopped around on Bricklink. Basically, what you did is spend like 80 bucks to get shoddy knockoff parts you probably could have gotten for less on Bricklink. Are the parts expensive? Yes, but you still probably did not save any money, and for shoddy parts. Oh well, you live, you learn. Also, why do I see lots of the red ball joints for the Enzo on Bricklink, for like a dollar a piece? Or will you not deal with Bricklink?

There you go.

Well, I did add a bunch of caveats, I wouldn't say that long beams are quite superflous, but they're pretty close. I'd actually say that super long beams would actually be less useful, because they are long. You could extend the logic to we don't need seperate pieces, ever, to improve rigdity, and then it would cease to be Lego. And, I've never run across an instance where I've needed or wanted longer beams.

Actually, I have encountered indexing mechanisms that are smaller, and more reliable. Although, the Lego solution is still amazing, even if it is bulky.

That's true, although the Volvo L350F, which is what I think you're referring to, is still an overall larger vehicle. Also, that tiller is kind of interesting, in the video it is shown working both forwards, and backwards. It must do different things, depending on the pulling direction, and height.