Saberwing40k

I hate to sound like a wet blanket, but a robot arm, made out of Lego parts, would be really useless for welding projects. You've got hot metal, and sparks going all over the place. Not the best place to have a plastic arm you presumably aren't willing to destroy. Even a metal robotic arm would not be good for that purpose, due to the motors probably being fairly weak, and so easy to backdrive. For welding, you're better off making something like this, with wing nuts to lock the joints. But, I'm not going to talk about that, Let's talk about a nice Lego project. So, have you decided on how you want to control the arm? How many joints do you want? Do you want a gripper? How many motors do you have? If you have an SBrick, and at least 2 servos, you'd be able to make a 4DOF robotic arm, completely under your control, from a smartphone. Another alternative would be to use an NXT or EV3 brick, with their servo motors, although you'd have to program that. Although, in that case you're better off just buying the metal kit, because the EV3 and extra motors would be more than that. Just running the arm through standard PF controls would be very inaccurate, given how you'd be moving it by timing alone. Okay, as a general rule, in robotics, particularly with arms , legs, and humanoid robots, each joint is considered a degree of freedom, or DOF. Human arms, at the most basic, can be considered to have 3DOF, the shoulder, in two axes, and the elbow. So, a basic arm, with gripper, needs four motors, bare minimum. Every joint you add is another motor you need to control. The arm you linked to is actually a 6DOF unit, given that it has a wrist, pivot and rotation, and a gripper. Here are some units you might like:

If I'm interpreting this correctly, you are not allowed to enter a model that has been previously shown in a WIP topic, even if you haven't finished it, right? Also, the way I'm reading the rules, what the contest is after is something like 8868, as in only motorized compressor, and emphasis on pneumatic functions, with minimum extra manual functions. I'm game, this should be a fun contest.

But, even if the translation is accurate, how do we know if the source is? Like, say they got the list in another language, and then translated it? What if they actually just directly read the current list, as it is? I'm waiting for a better list/translation so I can make conclusions.

Here's something I don't get: Why is everybody latching on to a Ripsaw/ Tracked Vehicle for 42065? We seem to have other translation errors, possibly due to the list being put thru google translate, so why do people assume that the translation is good for only that one? I mean, we have "Searching Ship", and "Street Working Cars", and those are pretty obviously wrong, so I think 42065 is more properly RC TRACK Racer. From that standpoint, it would not be that hard to make it, as a small car with just drive and steering. Keep in mind that the cost for Lego to add PF to sets is a lot less than what they sell the PF parts for. I don't think that the 42030 is that good a comparison, given that it has more PF parts than 42065 would ever need. Nor is 9398. I actually did some math, in US dollars, and both sets end up being about 15 cents per part. I think the price will be 90 dollars, not 80, as I think the price with 42064 got switched. Then, I converted the price to cents, multiply by 100, then divided by 15, getting 600 parts. Or, go with 4958, which is not a Technic set, nevertheless has a lot of Technic parts, and PF components. That has 700 parts, and cost 90 dollars on release. Oddly, that set is a lot closer to standard sets in terms of price per part, but that's another discussion entirely. I can name dozens of small RC cars other builders have made, like this one by Artemy Zotov:Link. It has a mere 450 parts, so I think 42065 is going to be something like this. Or, if you really really, for no real reason want to stick with the idea of it being a Ripsaw style vehicle, Mahjqa built a small tracked chassis that used a mere 291 parts: So, add like 100 parts, and you have a tracked racer, but I don't think that's going to be what we get. Also, I'm really curious as to why nobody has commented on the fact that we are missing some numbers.

Whoops, I got you two mixed up. I should have checked first. Sorry about that.

I just measured the conveyor, and it is 16 cm tall, with some overlap over what you're trying to dump into.

So, nobody's going to comment on how there are no 42062 or 42063? That means we are missing at least one set, figuring that the BMW is 42062. I don't think the jet is either of those numbers, seeing as it's the most expensive set, over the last couple of years, the chronologically highest set numbers, as least within year halves, are the more expensive ones. So, I'm figuring that the jet is 42066, and we have one or two missing sets. I say they are missing, because Lego almost never skips around with numbers like that. But, one of the numbers might be the BMW, and the other might be the missing fire truck from the year, 42052. As an aside, that's the only time I can recall a set showing up in dealer catalogs, and then not being released. Also, based on the numbers, I think the prices for 42064 and 42065 might be switched, or wrong, based on their numbers. Here's some more detailed speculation: 42057: I dunno, I kind of want this to be a mini version of this year's heavy lift helicopter, two rotors and all. It would probably just have the rotors, and maybe a winch at this price point. The B model would probably be another helicopter, as all other sets of recent memory have done that, but it might do something really surprising. 42058 & 42059: Not much to say here, I'm just wondering if the bike is actually more of a trike, with a wheel on either side of the pullback motor, or what. I'm hoping that the models employ a consistent color scheme, like dark blue and orange, to have a better combined model, which would probably be another six wheeled race machine. 42060: The name has to be a bad translation, it probably reads more as Street Sweeper. At this scale, it might have a single cylinder engine, and a brush driven by being pushed along. It might even do something like actually pick up 1x1 round plates as simulated road debris, but I'm not counting on it. Could be white, yellow or orange, as real street sweepers are typically brightly colored. B model could be a steamroller. 42061: I can't decide if this is a reach stacker, or just a truck with a hook lift. It would be nice to have a lift axle, but at this price point probably would not. B model could be a forklift, or wheel loader. 420?? BMW R1200: Probably just has standard motorcycle features, chain drive, fake engine, steering. Yawn. Next please. 42062: This is probably the number of the BMW, I just don't see Lego having 3 sets at the same price point. 42063: Unknown, could be an actual release of the airport fire truck from this year. Or, it's something else that's licensed, that hasn't been finalized. I'm going with a 60-70 euro price point, as that is what the source is using as units, the euro. 42064: It's probably Orange and white, or red and white. I can't decide if this is a search and rescue ship, or a research ship. In either case, both ships have cranes, for different purposes, and there would likely be wheels on the underside that turn propellers as the ship is pushed along. Probably ready for PF, but does not include it. B model could be an airplane. This should be interesting, only the second ever Technic ship. (Or third, depending on how you count the hydroplane racer and various other hovercraft, and submarines.) 42065: Now, I'm not certain of whether the price got switched with 42064 in the listings, but I'm really curious about this set, as if the RC is correct, it would be the cheapest RC set ever. I'm not sure what the piece count would be, but it would probably be like an ACC car, or JJ2's Lotus 7 in terms of size and parts count. I'm hoping for some PF 2.0, but I don't want Lego to go the WeDo route with it. Instead, a new control system is implemented, either using Bluetooth, or some RF system , but the PF connector stays the same. The motors would probably be Servo and L motors, with a standard,or AAA battery box, with maybe a new, studless version of the latter. 42066: I'm just extrapolating the number, but it should be this. I'm expecting something similar to 42025, but a jet. I see a fake spinning jet turbine, and retractable landing gear at least, and maybe an opening speed brake and canopy, as motorized functions. Like 42025, this set would also have moving flaps, and probably a rudder. Or, this set could be like the Control Center 2, but with a gearbox instead of individual motors, using a joystick to control pitch, roll, and possibly yaw. The new driving ring connectors in 42056 should allow for this. It's probably going to be a bright color, or have a nice color scheme. Interested in this one too. Well, there is plenty of interesting stuff in here, but nothing particularly shouts out as celebrating 40 years of Technic. I mean, only having commemorative bricks? That's kind of lame. Or maybe that's more for the second half, or when we actually get closer to 2017. Also, the 2 missing numbers might actually be sets people get to vote on. But, for now, we are in the speculation period, so let the havoc begin.

I found some gaps in the conveyor belt channel, where parts can get caught. 42055superstructuremod by Saberwing007, on Flickr I found these by digging into a bin of 2L black pins, which most Technic builders have trillions of. The pins can catch in the gaps circled, and jam the belt. I think most small parts can slip into those areas as well, which means that fixing them is high priority, but luckily this is simple. The two gaps at the back, by the pivot point, are easily filled with a 1L liftarm on a pin, which can be done with spare parts. The gap under the ramp that the pieces fall on to, that's a bit more involved. I managed to fix that, but it will not fit in LDD, show I can't show it right now.

Funny, I don't have any problems. You just have the transmission shift into neutral, the real issue is the gear reduction of the slewing and driving, and popping out the ball joints wouldn't do anything for that. Also, I've found that the BWE will pick up bricks, but not the small amount included in the set. I had a large tub of black 2L pins, so I used that. As long as you use a bin that is longer than the diameter of the bucket wheel, and can have a pile at least a couple of centimeters deep, it will scoop up stuff. However, I do not recommend using 2L pins for digging. An unfortunate bug is that there are some gaps in the channel the conveyor belt is in, so a part, if that is the digging material, can fall into those gaps in such a way that it can jam the conveyor. I haven't done tests with other parts, but I think it could happen with other, small pieces, like the 1x1 cylinder included int the set. I'll post some fixes in the mod topic. Speaking of fixes, I've found a feature that, while not a design flaw per se, is still noteworthy and something to be watched out for: the teeth on the gear rack quadrants do not actually line up all the time. It's a bit difficult to describe, picture: 42055 gears. by Saberwing007, on Flickr As can be seen, if the end hole of one rack is connected to the center axle hole of another, the teeth are misaligned. It is possible, if you are not aware of this, to build the bucket wheel this way, and then when you go to put it together, the gears on one side don't fit. The instructions actually tell you to assemble them aligned, but it is difficult to see, and I did it by accident. If you're awkwardly checking your 42055 right now, don't worry, you don't have to remove much. It's an easy fix, and now mine works much better.

I'd say that yes, the servo is worth buying. As can be seen in my Ice18 car, the servo can be used as part of the frame of a model, and indeed, I made a steering mechanism that was only 7 studs between the wheels. So, it does have an odd shape, but the large amount of connectors ultimately makes it a better choice than an M motor with a return to center mechanism.

My latest creation, and entry for the Porsche contest. E9Porsche by Saberwing007, on Flickr This model is a possible production version of the radical Mission E concept, dubbed the E9. Now, for some backstory. I started on the model roughly the week after it was announced, but I only finished 10 hours before the competition closed. As such, there are several shortcuts taken with the model, which means that the interior is not quite there, I had to omit some features I wanted to add, some pieces aren't solid, etc. But, aside from that, it looks better than I thought it would, and the chassis features worked until I added the body. Now, onto the features that actually do work. Drive, via 4 L motors, two per axle. I also used one receiver for each set of two. 2 speed gearbox, actuated by 1 M motor, and two small linear actuators. The ratios are probably a little bit close together, with gear 1 being 1:3.89, and gear 2 being 1:2.33 4 wheel steering, with two servos. Steering mode switch, with 1 M motor actuating a PF switch. Allows for four wheel steering, normal steering, and crab steering. Independent suspension on all four wheels, control arm with 2 shock absorbers per wheel. No Ackerman correction or fancy geometry here, which made it more solid, and also made the crab steering work better. I also had a couple of features I wanted to add, but due to lack of time I could not implement them. Lights Opening doors/hood/trunk Adjustable aero Panemera style rear spoiler Indicators for gearbox and steering mode. Interior with functional steering wheel. Adjustable suspension, although I actually made the decision early on to nix it, due to how the axles and suspension are set up. Also, I made a few mistakes with the body work, and so the wheels collide with it That, and there are a lot of dodgy/illegal connections, and the back end looks rather bad, like a real Panemera. Well, at least my gearbox works better than the official one, and it has more interesting suspension to boot. Well, I did learn a lot, and proved that I can still build with a deadline. On the other hand, I am probably never building a 1:8 scale car again, given how freaking ginormous this thing ended up being, and yet it still somehow ended up with not a lot of interior space for functional parts. I might take more pictures later, if you guys want it. The bodywork sucks, so I'm probably not going to include it if I make a video, but the chassis might live on, as something else... We'll see.

I'd say go with 42055. If you're new to Technic, it would be a great learning expierence.

Firstly, unless you do something really weird, you will not fry an IR receiver. Lego battery boxes, motors, and IR receivers all have a nice feature called a thermoreistor, which will shut the device off if you try to draw too much current, as in the event of a stall situation. The only way I can think to fry it would involve using a modified battery that put out too much voltage and current, or screwing up a custom wiring job. If you stalled a motor, the worst that could happen is you get a thermal shutoff, and then all you'd have to do is turn the model off, and turn it back on again.And, this is only if you stall the motor for a few seconds, which is hard. This goes for any motor. Lego has more detailed specifications on their website, if you want actual current numbers. For the second part, you should have no problems connecting 2 L motors to a single channel, they just might not run at max power. 9398, which uses a 2L motor/channel configuration, actually has a modified receiver to make this work better, which has V2 printed on the front. But, for the most part, you should be fine, although I don't have much expierence with the differences between the receiver types.

This video seems totally bogus. And, if it's just the Claas tires, what's the point in building up anticipation for something that was revealed a long time ago? nothing fits with this being made by a Lego designers, so this person is just doing some weird, and deceptive promo.

That piece you are referring to is actually not part of the truck. It's an adapter, used to connect to ISO containers. The containers have points on the corners for securing them, like in stacks, and that frame you circled in the pictures connects to that so that the truck can lift the containers. All it is is a frame, that latches on to the container corners, and then has a loop at the right height for the truck to lift it. I don't know if they are bolted, or twist locked. This is a twist lock: At your scale, you'd probably be able to use just standard pins, or maybe something similar to the 42009 B model. Hope that helps you.

Does anybody know if the Legoland exclusive launch applies to just the Billund LegoLand, or all of them? I've got somebody who's going to be in California, near that Legoland, and I'm wondering if 42055 and 42054 are available at that location, and whether or not you can go in the giftshop without buying a ticket.

Geez, I was going to say something along the lines "Unless you live in North Korea or some other country like that, you'll find a seller." I did not ever consider somebody on this site actually being from Iran. Sadly, you're probably going to be SOL, unless you can find somebody local with the parts you need, or you can somehow kludge something together to get it shipped to you via out of country relatives. Also, given how many parts that are in the Wrangler, I'm sure there will be others that you won't have. I heartily recommend Rebrickable.com, because they can tell you how your inventory of parts compares to a creation you want to build. Honestly, the most I can do is wish you luck, you're going to need it.

Where are you? That would help a lot in determining whether any bricklink stores will be able to ship to you.

Bricktrain is a member here, you could probably ask him. Not on Power Puller wheels, but I've seen things that are overall larger. ImanolBB just posted something by Kevpation, that's one of the ones, but I'm not sure if it counts, because there have been no updates. The chassis uses Unimog tires. There's also LiftingBricks"s rendition, which uses 24x43 tires, and the similar sized LTM 1750-9.1 Liebherr LTM 11200 9.1 Lego by Huib van der Hart, on Flickr Liebherr LTM 1750 9.1 NORTHWEST by Huib van der Hart, on Flickr And then, this thing, similar in size, but more Technic:

So, what do you think would be the most flawed Technic model? I think this one comes close, given how many of the functions do not work out of the box, and how long it was supposedly in development. But, I can see your perspective, where most of the criticism is for this set being too simple, rather than bad.

Have you had any fouling, or does it fit? Also, does it limit steering angle/increase turning radius, or not? Finally, do you notice any difference in how well the car turns, versus without the mod?

I did some digging, and found this, post #86 on this page:http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=92099&st=75 Or, you could use this, it's even smaller, and has drive:http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=96173

Well, for real cars, that is true. Question is, are the effects needed with Lego cars/vehicles? I personally don't think so, but it's good to have them, if you are working at a scale that allows them to be implemented.

I'd say you've got it pretty good. I don't know how useable it would be, but it looks about right. Also, you're talking about caster angle, which you have. Now just comes the small matter of getting the wheels to go straight...

I'm a little bit unsure about having only the battery/receiver combo. On the one hand, it is great for small models, because one need only fit the battery, but for larger models with more than four functions, it is ultimately bulkier, because each receiver is also a battery box. Sariel, out of all the alternative receivers you've tested, which one is your favorite, or are they good for different things?