Saberwing40k

Oh come on, this is 42070. One can hardly expect it to be a quality model. Also, it's not a tow truck. Even rotator tow trucks have a towing fork or arm at the back, which 42070 lacks. Lastly, this set is the ultimate argument against RC sets. It has everything that people who dislike RC sets dislike, and then some. Poorly finished design, lack of functions, and mostly boring assembly. Also, for $270, why is it not fully RC, with a motor to run the switch mechanism?

Curse you! But, who'd you have to bribe to get those? I mean having pneumatics parts, in black or gray, in official sets, and not super rare prototypes.

The grill is a rather complex shape, and is almost shield shaped, and tapers in at the bottom. If you're having problems with shaping, I have some advice. Sometimes in lego it's better to imply a shape than to have a straightforward replica. For instance, using stepped bricks when a curve or diagonal is not possible. So, if you gradually step in the grille, it will look tapered. Also, the current hood is way too short. On the real truck, it is much higher. But keep it up, a Lone Star is a very difficult truck, and you've got a solid start.

I saw a topic like this on a Transformers forum I frequent, and I think it might be a good thing to have here as discussion. The question is what are your grail, dream, and regret sets and/or parts. Here's what each thing means. Holy Grail: A set that exists, and that you want to add to your collection, but have not been able to acquire due to rarity or other reasons. Or, a set you desired for a long time, but have since acquired. For example, mint in box 8880, a particular variant of a set, etc. Dream set/part: This is a thing that does not exist, but you would very much want. Example: a particular replica set, a machine/vehicle that has not been made in Technic, parts that have not been produced in a particular color,etc. Regret: Can be any regret, be it buying a set, not buying a set, selling it, passing up on it in stores, anything. I'll start with mine. Holy Grail: At this stage in my life, I am more interested in parts rather than sets, although I have found that for certain parts, it is better to buy a used set then buy the parts individually. For the longest time, I wanted to get one of the RC sets that include the buggy motors, and still kicked myself for not buying one when they were on shelves. But, I persevered, and finally got the sets. One of my big things was not following up on somebody local who had them for sale, and that bugged me for so long. Then, it was some particular pneumatics parts, but I got lucky there to. Dream Set/Part: I could fill literal pages with this stuff, as there is so much I want that does not exist. As a short answer, I'd really like gray or black pneumatic cylinders, and an 8x8 Mercedes Zetros with a crane, and full suspension. There is certainly more, but this is what I'm putting in for now. Oh, and how about a 9 axle crane set with x outriggers, at 42009 scale? Regret: I have a few. Not getting the RC sets when new. Not following up on somebody local who had some. Not getting 8275. Not getting 8455, even though I did get 8454. I'm sure there are others, these are just the ones I remember most. I haven't ever sold any Technic set, or regretted buying one. So, those are mine. What are yours?

You've got a good start, but the grill doesn't taper like the real one. Maybe move the bottom parts of the grill in?

Where'd you get that statistic? Unless you have a source, I'm calling bullpaddies. And what's to say that Lego didn't design the new one at the same time as the Porsche? That is, of course, assuming that Lego is even planning a release of a supercar this year. If they were, you would think that there would be some sort of announcement. But given that there is a bootleg porsche floating around, maybe not. I'm sure the bootleg is making both Lego and Porsche's lawyers weep bitterly.

It already scoops up. The bottom of the chain arm is the digging side.

Awww,42054 has a little sibling.

Very interesting, do you have some pictures of the wheels disassembled?

The motors are the same, there is no difference between the ones in 8421 and 8475. Also, I don't know where everyone is getting the cheap prices for RC gear. Trust me, it is not that cheap. Plus, you have to worry about interfacing non lego motors, and it rapidly becomes a major headache. I bought the motors and associated receiver in order to make a trial truck that could run outdoors, but I might not need to since I also have SBricks. We'll see, maybe I'll do one with each control method, and see what happens.

There's actually been a thread about this already, but if they will send you new ones, I'd like an update with some pictures, whether you get old or new ones. Also, did you check the production date? The copyright date, which is what you read, is different than the production date, which should be more accurate.

22: 10 23: 6 25: 4 29: 3 9: 2 13: 1

You can currently buy them on Bricklink and elsewhere, but as for an official release, no one knows.

Is it this, by Mortymore? Link: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi Or this thing, by Sariel? Link: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=381442 That should be it.

When in doubt, go lower. Or, you don't even need a Lipo if you have an SBrick or Buwizz. I've actually got a train controller, and it came with a 12v adaptor, even though the actual output is closer to 9v. But, I've never heard of receivers being useable at 12v. Also, no matter the voltage, you're going to have problems with the thermoresistor.

Because I'm purist, and I don't want to friction weld parts.

4, not using them as often as I should.

Yes, if I recall, Sariel does this with at least a couple of his creations.

If I recall correctly, 8878 puts out somewhat more current than the 88000, which is why it is used. Basically, 8878 is smaller and lighter than the AA box,while still outputting high enough current levels. And it discharges differently. Me, I stick with me Eneloop batteries.

Huh, I'm surprised. I didn't think that the wheels would be in scale, but they are. Kind of a shame about the interior, but there really ain't that much you can do about that. One really difficult thing is that building truck axles out of Lego is that the axle is much larger than it should be, making building the frame harder. But, I still look forward to this, as I almost bought an Xterra.

Very nice, and much improved. The steering and boom are very clever.

Very nice, especially with virtual pivot steering. Gotta ask, how well does that work with the suspension? Also, strangely enough, I think the real truck looks like a knockoff Ford dump truck of similar era.

I'm sorry, but I don't quite understand what this does or accomplishes. Or is this more for SBrick Plus?

????? What do you need 5 m motors for? I can see 2, at most, maybe 3. What do you have planned for them? Also, why 2 battery boxes? If you have the motors and steering running off one, then you can have the second one be a triple A size one. Finally, I'm not seeing this thing as being that small. Most Lego vehicles have really large tires in relation to their size, but if you want correct proportions, this will be bigger.

Very nice. My only gripe is the doors. I know you're worried about weight, so that's why you don't have them. So, I was thinking that a flexible axle going from the bottom of the windshield to the C pillar would complete the outline of the door, as this model looks very much like a wireframe already, and that would complete it.