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Blakbird

Technic Regulator
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Everything posted by Blakbird

  1. I once put a 3L pin deep inside a model where there should have been a 2L pin and a mechanism was blocked. I didn't want to take it all apart to get it out so I put the model on a drill press and drilled out the pin. I ended up destroying a bunch of parts and needed to rebuild the whole model.
  2. I may do a review eventually, but at this point it is already built so I can't take build photos. I've given my overall impressions earlier in this thread. Is good car. Build it.
  3. Glad to see these instructions in the hands of the public so everyone gets a chance to build this great car. I can't deny that a big part of the reason I volunteered to help with this project was selfish: I wanted to build it! I was not disappointed. I've built a LOT of Technic supercars and I can easily say this is one of my favorite. I think I can safely say it has the smoothest gear system I've ever seen. The durability is also really impressive. There won't be any parts falling off when you handle this model.
  4. I tend towards the purism side of things since that is the challenge of building in LEGO, but I certainly have a few S-Bricks. I guess to me the S-Brick has nothing to do with building, it has to do with control which is somehow a different topic in my mind. I've also once used 3rd party tires just because they look so good on a model which is otherwise extremely scale looking. I am also a proponent of purist connections. This is not to say that every connection possibility is only legal if it is found in an official set, but I feel like TLGs standards of durability of playability need to be met for a model to be impressive. A supercar with a beautifully sculpted bumper held on by only one stud which falls off when you take a breath does not meet this criteria for me.
  5. I did most of my collecting long ago before Bricklink so I had to use eBay. At the time the used LEGO set market was not so big or well known, so many sets were very hard to find. My holy grail was 8862. It took me years to find a complete copy of this set even used. Of course, now it is easy to buy. Another difficult find was the 8858 engines set. It is still rare and expensive today. Ever since about 2000 I have been buying all the sets new so I haven't missed anything in Technic or Star Wars UCS. I do wish I had bought the Grand Carousel though. I remember when TLG was clearing out 8288 cranes for $50. I bought two of them just so I could also build the alternate model, but now I wish I had bought 20. Same with 8258. I bought 5 of them when they were clearing them out for $75, but I sold them immediately for retail. I thought I was doing really well, but if I had held them for a couple of years I would have made a fortune.
  6. It is almost impossible to burn out LEGO motors. It is more likely that some connections have come loose. Check all the cables.
  7. I recall having a little trouble with this as well but got it to work after pushing parts around a bit. There are several different steps 17, but I'll assume you are talking about the ratchet pawl. I think the pin is just the rotation axis for the pawl. I have noticed that the friction gets much bigger over time with these turntables so you have to go back and do the mod after a while. Even better would be to use the new style turntables, but they have a different number of teeth. I quite like your color choices. The output ramp stand out a bit compared to transparent, but I like the buckets. Glad you are enjoying this module. It is one of my favorites for staring mesmerized.
  8. Yes, it works just fine. You don't need an adder, although that is one option. You can drive to the same output without an adder but you will want to adjust the gear ratios so that the motor speed is about the same or the slower motors will end up dragging on the faster motors.
  9. Without a video or sound file, there is no way for us to tell you if your noise is unusual. XL's are pretty loud in general.
  10. The engine should be easy to turn even with 100:1. If it moves hard with 3:1, something is certainly wrong. Remove the engine and check it carefully.
  11. I'm not sure how many people are waiting expectantly for the instructions to be available, but I wanted to report that we are making excellent progress. I'd say we are 80%+ done. Didumos is being very fastidious in getting all the details right (as expected), so I think people will be pleased with the results: both the model and the instructions. After I build my copy, I'll be sure to post my thoughts as well.
  12. Welcome to Eurobricks! In general, please try not to re-open 2 year old topics to ask a new question. 8461 is 82 studs long, about the same size as 8674.
  13. 5548K61 is the tube type and size, and then you can get different colors. I bought them in 25ft lengths and had much extra. https://www.mcmaster.com/mv1491548656/#catalog/5548K61
  14. I will let you know which submodels I need help with, if any. The file actually looks like it is in pretty good shape so I may not need much help. I'm getting started now. Once I start going on one of these projects I pretty much go without food or sleep until they are done, so maybe it won't take very long!
  15. Wow, this is a really beauty. I'd love to see some technical photos of how the functions are accomplished. Or a video would be even better!
  16. Another beautiful, sturdy MOC. This looks really well done.
  17. 9398 and 8110 shocks are not the same as 8466. The body of the shock is the same, but the spring is much stiffer. The stiff shock is always black and yellow. The older, softer shock can be yellow, black, or dark gray but are always just one color.
  18. @Didumos69 if you want to post some teardown photos of the submodels, I would be happy to work on stepping the file. @BusterHaus, I do not want to step on your work, so let me know if you would rather do it yourself. I also don't want to duplicate effort that someone else might be working on. However, I have some time now and happen to be excited about this model at the moment so I can help! Well, I already ordered the 34 black bushings so I guess now I will have some extra for future builds!
  19. @Limga is entirely correct. 8878 is a rechargeable battery box. The primary advantage is that it is rechargeable. It is the best box overall, but also costs the most. If you go through a lot of batteries, it will save you money in the long run. Every box is capable of higher current based on the batteries, but is limited so the difference doesn't actually matter. The AAA box has by far the lowest capacity.
  20. I don't find that there is any problem with the spring rate of the 8466 shocks. In fact, I think they are the most realistic of any LEGO model. But if you did want to use stiffer versions, you could not use the shocks from 42000. Those are small shocks (6.5L) and would not fit. You need the large shocks. Large, hard shocks can be found in 9398 and would drop right in to 8466 with no modification.
  21. That's a pretty good idea. I think a lot of them could be replaced with 1L liftarms very easily. The majority seem to just be used as spacers to put black into gaps between other parts.
  22. I am just starting to collect parts for this. Does it really use 36 black bushings? That's going to a big problem for people to acquire. Are all of them necessary?
  23. I would love to build it, however I've already disassembled and sold 12 Akiyuki modules because I don't have space for them, so until something changes I probably won't be building any new GBCs. I'll take a look at that color error. Maybe I coded something wrong.
  24. That wouldn't surprise me. I've had this file sitting around for a while. Thanks for noticing! I like to make a render look real, and perfect alignment is always a flag for fake.
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