Ryokeen

@ZENE Does each differential comes with both output options ? The cross-shaped an square metal output shaft type and if not, how can one choose as it's not a selectable option in your shop One thing i might add about the bearing hubs(the bearing drive shaft parts). The 1:8 scale ones are pretty sturdy, but at least in my case(it's long been resolved) are prone to manufacturing errors. Another important bit about them is, they are problematic, if not unusable, in a driven high suspension travel use case. The pivot point of the hub no longer matches the pivot of an attached u-joint. It's around 1 stud offset. Sadly that prevents one from using those hubs in a fwd or awd vehicle.

Thx a lot, did not expect it :)

Such a fine model with pneumatics, love it. Even the levers move, i would love to have something like that as a toy and shovel around a pile of bricks. Nicely done

@Daniel-99 thx mate, almost bought them aswell, but damn 4 weeks of delivery time :D Did they came prefilled with oil ? As a lot of injora shocks i found were not oil filled

@Zerobricks if you mean mean part 2387 and 2389 i have some of them in black and tried. But as they curve inwards it creates a weird gap between the door and the side part. But you are right, that is one of the areas i would like to improve, just don't know how as Lego nor any alternative parts have triangle shaped flat panels. I also thought about using more system parts there, but then you get studs sticking out and it gets to heavy. But maybe i'll find a sollution and then i'll update it for sure

@Daniel-99 was wondering, which brand are your shocks now ?

@suffocation nope so far not. Ordered micromotors and other parts and never was something missing. I assume the package looked unopenend ?

Nice idea, actually could be educating. Buuut..the earth seems off, i mean global warming aside but didn't we have some massive ice shields in the south?

With enough time i'm sure you could pull it off. Also now you know how to add RC components, another model is then not much different. Btw Lego could do that, they have/had pf lights. And using colored leds makes 0 price difference. They just don't want to. Thank you. And i think a manual version would be possible with pure lego. Well mosty, some color changes might be needed. I have a digital stud.io model so apart from the drilled parts in the flux capacitor i think i didn't use any parts that can't be substituded with lego ones. The biggest problem would be the mudguards as Lego doesn't produce them in lgb, so i had to get some gobricks parts. Same for some 2l and 3l parts in lbg.

Thx for the kind words. This one uses a 540 brushed motor, but even that one has plenty of torque (math wise first gear has about 2nm). Well i use rather short carbon axles and to be honest, i avoid sudden acceleration or deacceleration. But even in first geat and full throttle so far no gear slipped, so it seems i braced them enough. But as with a real engine, going fast and shifting down or trying to go full throttle from a standstill in 3rd or 4th gear should be avoided. I did that once in the testing phase and..i still search for the lost gear teeth :D All in all i only use 2 8t gears which are metal and 3 12t bevel in the diff, also metal. The bigger gears from lego seem to hold well, as said unless you put a lot of sudden torque on them. I wouldn't add in a gearbox anymore, not with a brushless motor setup. Here i just wanted the feeling of a real car. Driving, changing gears. I even experimented with a proper clutch, but honestly that just made it more complex.

Hello everyone, As i'm kinda done with the exterior, cable management and stuck with the interior progress i'll just show what i got after around 4 months of work. I admit i took some inspiration from a moc on rebrickable from Mr.Platinum. I bought his instructions and asked if i could use some smaller parts like the idea how he did the back light so that's fine. It all started when i was a kid, watching that movie, loving the car and having lego :D and now that i'm older, the parts exists and i have the money i thought, yea let's build a DMC time machine. After gathering reference material and starting on a digital model my goals where set. Make it rc 4 speed gearbox Some light effects realistic interior Gullwing doors Hiding the electronic components Steering wheel should turn Possible leave it without motors as a display model So far i've more or less hit all my goals. Functional satisfied, aesthetically...to many cables. Since i wanted to maybe drive it a bit: Gearbox and lighting is remote controlled Lighting has 4 modes, off, only head/backlights, BTTF lights and both on. Ackermann steering geometry Independent suspension front and read The rc components components are similar to my tropy truck, but here i use a 540 80t brushed motor and 2 geek servos. One for steering, one for the gearbox. Full bircksafe gallery: DMC-12 First i started with building a normal stock DMC-12 so see if everything will fit and to make sure the base body looks good. Also i wasn't sure how to do the planned light effects back then. I tried to somehow mimic the layout of the original car and managed to place the motor above the rear axle. Sadly because gearboxes with lego parts are kinda clumsy i had to place that somewhere else. I thought about a few gearboxes but then just went for a linear layout hidden in the area between the seats. That also gave me space behind the seats to hide the esc, cables and the receiver. Also it served well as a reinforcement for the whole chassis as cars with gullwing doors have a problem to use the roof for stability, at least lego build ones. The real challenge started with the bodywork, especially the hood area, the doors, and the side area around the doors. I first tried to use panels but i didn't like how they were curved and the angles they gave me, also the bigger light blueish grey panels are quite expensive. So i made a rather complex structure to mimic the curvature from top to bottom and the front/back steep angles of the doors. From the shape itself i'm satisfied even though it's not as watertight as some other areas and resulted in quite heavy doors. That's also the reason why they lack a inner covering. But the gullwing doors are stable and with the help of some old lego dampeners(the transparent ones) they stay close and open smooth. The dampeners are placed left and right behind the back wheel arches. Making a time machine out of a Delorean Apart from all the sifi stuff in the back portion of the car a truly important feature, at least for me, was a lit flux capacitor and the blue light around the car during a time jump. The interior is still not fully finished, since i can't decide whether to go more in a modelling direction or just vaguely hint stuff. Flux Capacitor As i could not 3D print anything it was quite a challenge to make one that looks good enough and is actually lit. EL-Wires where one candidate but for that i would have needed a seperate inverter and those are not small nor quiet. So i went for optical fibres, similar to the old lego ones, some drilled holes and some glue. The fibres used are 1.5mm thick. Also i tried to make it like i saw it in the movie, a box with the recognisable Y shape stuff in it, shielded by glass. For the bluer parts of the lighting, when a timetravel happens, i use 3mm thick fibres which again fit nicly through pins so i could secure them well. The good thing for 3rd party parts here is, i could order them in 2m size so i didn't have to use put 2 24l lego fibres end to end and hope the light will transmitt well. 3rd party optical fibres are also way cheaper. I would like to have some cover to simulate the metal nature of those double lines, but no chance except i would 3D print or use modelling plastic sheets. But the cables for the led added to the realistic look as i could mount them where the original car had cables aswell. And of course the needed headlights for some night time driving. Simple 5mm leds fitted into pinholes. So far it was nice to combine all those techs to create something i wanted to build since i was a kid. And even if i need some of the metal parts or the servos and motors, i think i'll just keep it as a display model with lights Feel free to ask questions and have a great day.

Yeah i thought about using several smaller axles but then you have the weak point on the connections, exactly where i got the issue. The 16L axle is perfectly fine, no twisting nothing, even the side where the extendable cv joint was put on the 3l axle(left on the pic) is fine. But there were 2 screws used. I mean i did knew that at some point i would need metal axles anyway, cause currently every test drive was only with a 2s lipo, but that setup is made for 3s

RC shocks can be bought in a lot more sizes and different spring stiffness than lego shocks. The springs also have way more variety like simple ones as i use or dual spring setups or progressive single springs. And you can change the springs, or the damper oil so that you can adjust the springs according to your needs. But the biggest advantage is, proper RC shocks are oil filled, means they dampen the impact on compression aswell as on relaxing. Lego springs tend to bounce, rc shocks don't and that makes the whole suspension actually work as it should. In my initial tests, rc springs setup had way more traction then with lego springs and a more stable behavior(curves, small bumps) Oh and as Lixander said, RC shocks can be cheaper. usable oil filled non progressive shock sometimes are cheaper in a 4 pack than one single 9.5l lego shock absorber. So for me the realistic behavior, the possibility to adjust the pre compression and in general the possibility to customize them make the disadvantage of the slightly wider size neglectable. Thx, i have some time now to plan it as i need to change one long axle from a carbon fibre to a metal one. Had to combine a 3L and 16L axle with a metal connector. That connector only screws into the axle from one side, seems like the axles didn't like that on full throttle

Already wondered when an update would come and wow that are some really impressive improvements. The chassis and suspension geometry look so clean now and i think it could take quite a beating. Great job there. Even a little driver seat, i mean..who needs a copilot :D Use what works and improve the rest, nicly done. Components are also well protected, nothing should happen on a roll over. Another hint, as i couldn't see how you supported the screws. M3 screws also fit well through frictionless pins. That can fix them better in place without screwing to tight on the liftarms. And btw, you present your progress so well, that it's fun to read. To bad we won't be able to have a race :D would be interesting, as your truck is lighter and might have the better suspension, where i have more powaaa

@Lixander Thx a lot, i was looking through rebrickable for some inspiration. So far i got 2 main criterias for a bodywork. it must be isolated from the chassis so i can just take it off by removing a few pins No soft axles or expensive parts or stuff that can fall off easily I set those cirterias cause if i'll go offroad and the chassis holds, i don't want to have to collect falling of pieces from the bodywork :D Also in care of a crash/ropll over the bodywork should either hold, or only loose larger pieces that can be attached back quickly

Nice one, low part count and fully functional, that's a massive challenge. Ven with a small steering wheel, i rly like it not only as a base but as a small working offroad example. Good work there. So you made the whole front section a pendular axle with additional individual wishbone suspension ?

I'm afraid so. Made one full car and the bodywork took me weeks and is still not where i want it to have :D But first i need more testrides, in case it ever stops raining -.-

I'm quite suprised they added some bearings in the new hubs, but maybe it just made sense as a gear replacement from the other downgear hubs. @aFrInaTi0n As said, they sadly only support the old cv joints and from my understanding, one still have to pop in the other part of the hub. So i'm wondering if they are usefull at all. Sure ball bearings are nice, but if the 92909 parts are still just licked in, won't they fall out ? I mean bearings give a smoother ride and allow for higher rpms, means in a curve you get a bigger force pulling at the clicked in part. I had such issues a lot even at moderate walking speed.

@ZENE Thx for the compliment and for the parts aswell. So far the hubs and diff hold well. I've just changed the greasing in the diff itself as there. Also i've noticed that maybe in another version of the diff you maybe could work on how the input ball bearing is secured(side ones to the wheels are fine). So far it's only secured from getting pushed out but not in, giving it a lot of play, at least for me. It might not be an issue if the input axle is more secured, but in case of a live axle it lacks a bit of support. @Aurorasaurus yeah i think i know what you mean, i've tried it but it's a bit difficult for the big suspension travel i have(currently almost 7 studs) and since the supporting part would be quite far away from the wheel connection itself, it won't provide much support. Next week i'll just shove a 40mm m3 screw through the whole lower suspension arm, that should be enough. Also got some additional parts, receiver protection and a metal extendable driveshaft. So far RC components with 5mm holes and screws from both sides to fix an input axle fit lego axles quite well. The tape is just some teflon fibre tape to protect the parts a bit and seal the pinholes below the motor and esc(even if both are waterproof/protected)

I had the time to redesign the truck as i now know better how big components are, how heavy everything is and so on. Also the 1800mah Lipo i used proved to be to small for this motor, as after 10-15 mins the juice was gone. In the process of a redesign, i made the whole truck wider, front and rear axle both 2 studs wider and the mid chassis section 1 stud longer. That way i hope to have a bit more stability and as i moved the motor gearing from the rear to the front i can not fit lipos behind the motor, low on the mid section. That way all rc componends are well protected and give the truck a low center of mass. I could also construct the 4 link rear spuspension in a more clean and robust way so that the shocks are properly aligned in a straight line. As some asked how i mounted the motor and how the gearing is done, i took some pics this time. So it's first a 12:20 reduction then a 8:24. That gives me quite some options in case i want to change that. I use 2 liftarms with some half-stud 7.8mm holes drilled into so i can fit some ball-bearings there. The gears are protected from smaller rocks from all sides with panels and some cut out thin plastic sheets. As i could better plan where each component would be and what parts/structures need reinforcement, this iteration became stronger but also lighter. As said, now i have the space to fix quite bit lipos behind the motor and have them shielded from rocks and debris without raising the center of mass. Even more, the bigger lipos help to get some weight to the rear axle. One problem did arise, because the main driveshaft is now 1 stud lower the driveshaft part between the mid section and the rear axle needs to expand while the rear axle moves up. Currently i use a pure lego sollution, but that might get replaced by an metal RC part, same for the center driveshaft, it's a braced carbon fibre axle, but with a lenght of 18studs i might need a metal one. The 2 sides of the extendable driveshafts are pushed outwards by a small spring that sits on one of the connecting 4L axles. That way it won't slipt out. But so far a 60cm/2ft drop was no problem, nothing moved, the truck just bottomed out, but the rc shocks are adjustable so i'll do that once everything was fully tested. And last, a pic how lipos are gonna fit

Well even back with the 8880 set the towball to link connection is always the weakest part. It works okish as long as the force is almost in the same plane as both towballs used in the link. Anything else pops them out quite easy, same with rotational forces. I mean the easiest way to dissconnect a towball connection is pushing the link part up and rotating it out. That can even happen if you build something above the towball to "prevent" it as every part and connection got a bit of flex. But for the purposed connection, parts have to break to come loose and i rather have a misaligned balljoint connection than a loose part :D Also keep in mind that any connection made from both sides will be stronger than just a pin pushed in. I've had several 2l pins deformed and disconnecting from pulling on them, but never a 3L pin where something was pulling on the middle parts while both ends where connected. Yep that would work. And i've just tested it, a 6L link end can be moved quite easy over the collars of an axlepin, just wiggle a bit.

Could find anything about it, but remember the geek servos run with max 6V or more, they like to be used at 6V and i think the min workvoltage is 4.8V. Also they require quite some mA, up to 800 on stall and use a pwm signal

Small range secureable balljoints would be nice. Like the part 87082 but instead of the pinhole a ball. Currently 6L steering links could attach to that but you can secure the part with the ball from both sides preventing the steering link to pop out or off. That in combination with modified liftarms like the 5L steering arm(just with both ball cup ends open like the 6L link) or the 9L steering links would be nice for stuff like live axles or in general multi link mechanisms. Sure the range of movement is more limited but most of the time you don't need that much movement range anyways.

Thx :) Atm i'm redesigning the mid section as i need more space for a bigger lipo and i don't want to place it over the back axle. Might get damaged to easy on a rollover. Also gonna lenghten the wheelbase by 1 stud and make it 2 studs wider

Would be interested in that aswell, but so far i only found >= 1:8 tires which are too big and the most common(since it's for touring competitions) is the 1:10 scale with with 68mm tire size. But they are most of the time only 24-28mm wide so won't fit. Lego in general uses way to wide rims