Ryokeen

Yep a lot of RC 1:10 models have hubs made this way. I assume they try to avoid balljoints on those parts(some larger 6s models do use balljoints but they are big enough for that). The dogbone shaft that are normally used to have play in it to move a bit in and out. Normally there are small O-rings in the pan part so account for that.

So in an attempt to get a proper AWD into my next project i designed(with some help) an adapter and the machined parts today arrived. So far it all fits and should work with any RC hub that uses dogbones with an end diameter of 6mm and 2mm thick pins. This is the adapter part(pins will be inserted later as they tend to wear out). The it can be directly connected to any lego axle hole, means axle connectors, u-joints and so on. This is how it fit's into RC wheel axles/hubs: And some small testbuild for a driven and steered axle: P.S. if anyone wants to have the cad file and specs i can upload them.

Epic, just epic but..it's almost to detailed to be accurate. Nice build, i would never have such an idea to replicate a music video theme :D

You might use 2 motors on one channel but need to reverse one of the motors, like if you have one motor left and one right. My thoughts on this, there is a difference in powering a servo and a DC motor. A DC motor still needs an ESC that transforms the PWM signal into either voltage or a PWM signal for DC motors. A servo has the needed electronics (simple comperator for pwm input and servo position) on board, a dc motor does not. @NoEXIST And very impressive work, a neat little box for rc cars and something that lego should have long done as a replacement for their weird RC thing they had.

@Krzychups I for myself can't recommend a specific brand. But i look for total width, so that it's max 2 studs wide, reviews about how likly they are to leak, a shaft of at least 3mm diameter and spring adjustments via a thread and not plastic spacers. Else maybe look it they are used as replacement parts in a similiar type or car that you want to build. Cause what often isn't stated or at least i never found it, is how big the holes in the shockabsorber are. You know the moving disc inside that builds the resistance against the oil. Cause i have some slim line shock absorbers that are pretty good, except that the holes are so small that even 100cps/cst oil is to thick for them to properly extend in less than 3 secs :D

And i just think, what good does a license does if it only costs money, is used as the biggest advertisment factor(cause none other :D ) and doesn't guarantee building quality or overall quality (think of the Hulkbuster...) I have the sad feeling that licenses show the current lego focussed(not in a bad mouth way, it's just we all grew up with that brand ;) ) that there are other serious competitors, as i somehow doubt that brands with a history of moc stealing or set copying will get proper licenses. So that on the other hand is a good thing. Thing about licenses is, if your marked is big enought, you get licenses a lot easier, after all the company (Lego, Cada, whoeverbricks) pays the license holder to be allowed to advertise them. All in hope to get more sales because of a selling point that in itself has nothing to do with a brick building toy(my opinion). But it sure is, for some, a selling point, i just don't get it :D Buuut what i wanted to say is, licenses are not needed for a good set, not does a license guarantees a good set. The "Grow some eggs" is just plain translated from german :D Proper phrase would be "grow some balls" where one could arguee that it does not refer only to males but females aswell, i mean ovaries are some sort of..balls :D

You know that it's just a phrase ? :D "Grow some eggs" just souds weirder About the licence stuff, i don't rly know why licences are such an important thing..Technic or Lego/bricks work just fine without, but need more creativity as you have to come up with something on your own.

I would assume that you simply don't :D Or there is some potentiometer hidden on the receiver.

Well one can always plug in a separate gyro, but built in is surely nicer. That 5th port on the Flysky is a connection port for a gyro, so 4 channels + gyro interface

@gyenesvi always depends on the transmitter or (hope not) receiver(and servo). Most proportional channels are in the range of 1000us - 2000us of pulse width, that translates to -90° and +90°. If the transmitter just got a fixed setting and sends signals between 750us and 1250us you still have enough difference for an on/off switch, but a servo will turn less. Some light switches(like the one i used on my delorean) need exactly that. A sudden change from "negative" signal to "positive" signal as a trigger, so that makes sense as it's also not a switch button on the receiver but a hold button. FlySky transmitters are a bit more on the expensive and more configurable side of transmitter/receiver combos.

That is some serious technic you packed in there, quite impressive i have to say sir.

Either gearbox or difflocks ;)

@NoEXIST ohh confused 3rd and 4th channel but yea they simply just send a different/fixed signal to the receiver. 3rd channel is mostly for stuff like lights or difflocks. 4th channel is often used for stuff like a gearbox or a winch. So one servo for fixed 2 position stuff channel 3 and for 3 position stuff channel 4. Channel 2 for throttle, channel 1 for steering ?

@NoEXIST That channel 3 is more a limitation of the transmitter(the pistol) as that only got the 3 way switch on channel3 It wouldn't make sense to make a receiver that handles channels differently in terms of pwm signal output. I got the 6channel transmitter and receiver from DumboRC and the 5th channel is just a 0-100 turn knob, yet it can drive an esc. Anyway great progress so far.

@Krzychups if you go for the complete rear assembly, with the suspension arms and differential housing, you are very limited as you will have trouble changing the width of a vehicle or sometimes even the ride height. And at that point you might as well just use a full rc car chassis and just slab a brick body on it. That's why i went for the hubs only so everything else can be done how i need it. The adapter i need looks a bit like this : 10mm pins can be exchanged as they are prone to wear.

@Lego Tom on the 2nd front axle, on the part 92907 the left one(in the pic the bottom one) is that black liftarm supposed to be offset by 1 stud ? The other side looks like the black liftarm is in line with the mounting point on the axle, the left one not. Is that part 92907 facing the wrong way ?

The idea to fit a A2212 motor in an XL housing is nice, but i'm not sure how well the gears will hold up in the long run. Btw, as wheelhubs seem to be another problem i thought i share some of my findings. So far some tamiya parts, mainly the wheelhubs fit quite well. They can be mounted by m3 screws and are about 1 1/2 studs wide at the mointing points. Also they are quite cheap. For the balljoints Amewi HSP 02038 fit well, their heads are 6mm along with a m3 screw at the bottom and give about the same range of motion as lego towballs. As an example, this is a tamiya front wheelhub from m-06 ra series(without the axle holder part), with the Amewi balljoints. I have some spacers in there as i would have to shorten the screw part of the balljoints. So far the only thing missing is an dogbone to lego axle adapter, but for that i already have some rough cad designs and are just looking for a way to get them validated and manufactured.

@Aleh. first..why would you store sets where they are subject to weather ? Sun(UV radiation, heat) and water(with depending on where you live corrosive properties) can make a lot of plastics hard and brittle. That's why joints and parts break or why pins won't go out that easy. They stiffen, get britte almost to a point where they fell like glued together. Rain is more or less salt free(unless you have some massive chemical plants nearby) and tiny metal elements, not rly, sand is more common. Biggest enemy is direkt Sunlight

Thx man, it's still sitting on my shelf waiting for some livery upgrades.

No i mean in the case of a buwizz, would be weird for them to have motors that can burn out by using their buwizz 3.0 :D Sometimes it's also the internal resistance, the collectors used and so on, you never know

That is always a risk when using 3s lipos as lego(and their motors, and compatible motors) are designed for 9v. I think buwizz uses different protecting components as they buwizz 3.0 can deliver 3s voltage. So it would be a shame to burn out your own motors with our own product. Btw. i have the same dumboRc receiver (and the matching transmitter) and that shows why i suggested having the receiver external. You sure got 6 channels, but with gyro the 6th channel can't be used. Then you only got 2 proportional channels and from what i know the dumboRC receivers are if only compatible to similiar radiolink hw.

That thing screams for drifting in a parking lot :D love it

That, it reminds me of a tatra suspension just with a different pivot and they have that exact disadventage. But considering the length of the suspension arms the sideway motion will be less. Anyways nice work replicating eye-beams with lego parts :)

What ?

That placement on their site is unlucky, easy to scroll by so thx @aFrInaTi0n for mentioning. I would like to have those wheelparts with bearings aaaand matching set of cv joints, or just cv joints.